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8.5.07
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PROBLEMS
Netherland Dwarfs are prone to some genetic issues that should be avoided if you are
trying to develop quality lines and a reputation for fine rabbits. I won't go into all
the diseases as there is a wealth of info on the web about that. I will touch on
conditions that I have experience with.
Color Faults. NDs are recognized in 36 varieties, but a
multitude of unacceptable colors can show up as well. Some of these unshowable varieties
are useful for producing proper color in other varieties. Some have no use at all. Some
are DQs on the judging table, some are just slight color faults. Here's a few that have
occurred in my herd.
..... White or mismatched toenails,
white hairs or patches. DQ The nails must all be the same shade of color,
and white nails are not permitted on colored feet. This includes Himalayans. This can
be either genetic, or due to over-dilution. Breeding dilute to dilute for generations is
a main cause of white nails. It's always best to breed dilute to a dense color to keep
the nails correct. Sable x smoke, himi x sable, blue x black, choc x black, etc.
Mismatched nails might be genetic. There are "modifier genes" that can produce white
nails or white hairs or patches. If efforts to correct through breeding have failed, the
offending rabbit should be culled.
..... Himi Marten. DQ
Identified by lack of color under the tail, white nostril markings, and lacing on the
ears. Happens when the tan pattern gene has been introduced to shaded and himi lines.
Also called Himi Agouti when the agouti genes have been mixed in. In this case, ticking
will occur. Can be useful with Sable Marten. Should never be bred back into Himi.
..... Seal. DQ Very
dark or nearly black Siamese Sable with no visible shading. The result of Sable x Sable.
A dark Siamese Sable is referred to by most as a seal, but can be shown as long as there
is shading. This would be a color fault. Useful with REW, Himi, and Smoke Pearl.
Entritis. Severe diarrhea. There are many causes, but the
most common are stress, unfamiliar or contaminated food, or loss of gut flora (beneficial
bacteria in the intestines). This can kill a rabbit, especially a baby, very quickly.
Often by the time you notice, it's too late. Providing plenty of fiber in the form of
grass hay is the most important thing you can do to prevent it. Probiotics such as
BeneBac, or Acid-Pak help repopulate the gut with the bacteria needed. If you catch it
in time, probiotics will usually fix it. BeneBac is available at large pet chains as a
kitten suppliment. Acid-Pak is available through rabbit supply dealers. I mix Acid-Pak
in the water for newly weaned bunnies. This is a stressful time for them, and entritis
can flare up without warning. Death can occur within 24 hours.
Heat Stress. Rabbits can take the cold, but not heat. They
must be protected from sun and extreme hot temperatures. They can usually acclimate to
summer's heat as long as they are not exposed to the sun, and there is plenty of fresh
air flow. Fans in the rabbitry are a good idea to keep the air moving. The rabbits are
warm if they are laying all stretched out, but this is not yet a cause for concern. The
1st sign of heat stress is rapid panting. If the rabbit gets any hotter, the panting
will become more pronounced with the mouth open, and a wet face. This is critical and
the rabbit must be cooled immediately. Move to a cooler location. To cool the rabbit
quickly, lightly spray with cool water, or wet the ears with a cool cloth. Rabbits vent
heat through their ears. A fan blowing over, but not on the rabbit will help to cool the
air around it. Provide fresh cool water to drink.
Hutch Burn. An infection of the genitals caused by dirty
conditions. This isn't always due to cage conditions. Some rabbits don't keep
themselves as clean, and a build-up under the tail can happen. Check genitals often, and
clean as needed. If infected, clean well and apply a topical antibiotic. Pen-G is a
penicillin based ointment that works very well for this type of infection. See VD.
Malaclusion. DQ This is the teeth not aligning
properly. The top teeth need to pass over the bottom. It's sometimes just butting, or
sometimes seriously misaligned with the bottom over the top. The bottom teeth won't wear
down normally and continue to grow longer. Rabbits cannot live this way. Sometimes this
is due to other factors. A bunny can ruin his teeth by chewing and pulling on the cage
wire. Always give your bunnies something to chew or toys if they are bored. Another
time that you might see butting teeth is at a young age. NDs have large round heads, and
sometimes the jaws grow faster than the head. This often corrects itself as the head
catches up in growth. Again, something to chew will help realign the teeth. You can try
clipping the bottom teeth to get them in line, but if this doesn't fix it, don't bother
again. It won't fix. It's sometimes genetic. You may see this tendency in a particluar
line. Imported lines have been known to carry this defect due to their extra large
heads. Watch the growing kits' teeth carefully to make sure this doesn't become a
problem. If a rabbit is throwing bad teeth that don't correct, cull that rabbit.
Snuffles. This term is used to describe any runny nose or
sneezing. True snuffles are said to be impossibe to cure. Most breeders put down any
runny nose as it can be contagious. I don't believe I've seen a true case of snuffles in
my barn. I could be wrong there, but runny noses have been very rare. In the few cases
I have seen, the rabbit seemed to be sensitive or allergic, and only sneezed in response
to certain causes. Dusty hay, ammonia fumes, or sometimes it seemed to be a stress
response. I've noticed some that sneeze after drinking water. Maybe they inhale some
water. Since no other rabbits within breathing or touching distance ever came down with
it, I can only assume it wasn't a case of contagion. I'm a firm believer in a strong
immune system in rabbits. Only the strong survive. I don't believe in dosing rabbits at
every sign of illness. Since I rarely treat illness aggressively, I believe my herd has
developed a fairly strong immune system. I rarely see even stress-related entritis. My
barn is not sterile, and the buns are exposed to naturally occurring germs. If they
don't develop immunities, they will die, and that's better for the rest of the herd.
It's also better for anyone who takes one of my bunnies. I feel confidant that the bunny
will do just fine in a new enviroment. I've yet to have a bunny stress-out at a show,
even their first. I won't take a runny nose to a show. I wouldn't want to risk exposing
others' rabbits if it is contagious.
Sore Hocks. NDs aren't as prone to this as heavier breeds,
but it can happen. One cause is rough rusty floor wire. Another could be genetic. The
skin and fur on the bottom of the feet may be too thin to provide a cushion. It can
affect bucks due to their thumping hard and often. The 1st line of defense is providing
a more comfortable surface to stand on. Replace rusty floor wire. A resting board can
help clear up sore hocks without any other treatment. This can be any smooth solid
surface large enough for the bunny to sit on. A special plastic board is available
through supply dealers. It's a grid with holes large enough for droppings to fall
through. A simple square of wood or a ceramic tile is fine, too. Preparation-H is said
to help cool and heal the inflamation quickly. If you don't see improvement with the
resting board, try that.
Temperment. Bad Bunnies. In the past, NDs had a reputation
for bad temperment. Breeders have worked hard to breed this out, and it's no longer
true. BEWs (Blue-Eyed White) were once considered the worst due to severe inbreeding.
This should not be confused with tempermental does. Sometimes does are territorial and
protective of their babies and this is normal. If they are sweet the rest of the time,
they shouldn't be considered bad bunnies. A rabbit should never attack you for no
reason. Bad tempers, biters, or other neurotic behaviors should be culled to prevent its
being passed down.
VD. Contagious venereal disease. This is caused by a virus
similiar to herpes in humans. Inflamed, infected genitals are the 1st sign, often
followed by scabby pimples. These pimples can appear on the nose and mouth, being passed
there by the rabbit's cleaning itself. Aggressive treatment is required. Penicillin
shots are the most effective. Affected rabbits should be kept from contact with others.
Symptoms may reoccur and it might be necessary to cull the rabbit. See Hutch Burn.
Weepy Eyes. Wet, runny eyes. Caused by irritation from
foreign material, injury, or air quality. Heavy pus is a sign of serious infection. For
simple weepy eye, wash gently with sterile saline solution (for contact lenses), or warm
water. This will usually wash out the irritant and beginning of infection. If due to
air quality, usually ammonia fumes from too much urine in the tray, clean the tray and
make sure there is plenty of fresh air flow around the cage. For a real infection, wash
eye as before, and apply an antibiotic opthalmic ointment. I use Terramycin ointment
found at the local farm store with excellent results. Pet stores should carry an eye
ointment for kittens, and this is fine too.
Related Info: Glossary ; Netherland Dwarfs ; Color Breeding
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