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Netherland Dwarf Rabbits - The Gem of the Fancy

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Spring Creek Color Breeding Program

This only deals with the varieties I work with, and shows how I use each. These are things I've learned from experience, and input from other breeders. This is only intended as a guide. Some breeders may disagree in their breeding programs.

I especially credit the many knowledgable breeders at BEWorld Yahoo Group for in-depth discussions on the genetics and challenges of BEW, and Rabbit Genetics Yahoo Group for invaluable general genetic knowledge.

The chart is arranged in order of each group as they would be shown. Mates are listed according to my preference, best mates being first. More suitable matches are possible. I only list the ones I work with. The bunnies pictured are all mine, either current or from the past.

Below the chart, you'll find a list of common color faults and disqualifications in Netherland Dwarfs.


VARIETY MATES COMMENTS
GROUP 1 - Self

Ruby-eyed White (REW)
Ruby-eyed White
Siamese Sable

Sable Marten

Seal

Ruby-eyed White (REW)
REW is not a favored variety, but I've kept some for their type and usefulness in keeping sable shading correct. I usually cull these unless they are exceptional, or from a line I want to preserve.

REW is the true albino, and it's important to know what is hiding under the white sheet to be used effectively. REW can hide any color or pattern except chinchilla, shaded, or himi. Breeding is the only sure way to determine this.

The albino gene is recessive, and can hide for many generations. When 2 rabbits that carry REW come together, REWs will appear in litters. It's rather common in shaded litters due to REWs being used to correct color. REW x REW = All REW.
GROUP 1 - Self

Blue-Eyed White (BEW)
Blue-Eyed White

Vienna-marked (VM)
Vienna-marked

Vienna-marked (VM)
Vienna-marked
Blue-Eyed White (BEW)

Vienna-Marked (VM)

Vienna-Carrier (VC)
The Vienna gene is completely different from all others. It should never be bred to another variety as it will cause serious havoc by putting white marks or hairs, and mis-colored eyes where they are not supposed to be. It can haunt a herd for many generations. The exception to this is if BEW type needs improvement. That's often a needful thing as the gene pool for BEW in a barn or region can be very small. Genetic weakness in BEWs, such as seizures or temperment, is also something that may need to be addressed. Out-crossing to a strong line such as otters can help.

Out-crossing produces unshowable Vienna-Marked (VM) and/or showable Vienna-Carrier (VC). VM is also called Sport, Parti-colored, Mismarked, or Dutch-marked. The white markings often resemble Dutch rabbits, but the markings vary widely. There may just be a blaze or snip on face, splashes on shoulders or toes. The eyes are sometimes partially or totally blue. These are NOT Broken, and cannot be shown or bred as such. VC may be a perfectly showable variety, but the breeder needs to be aware of the presence of the Vienna gene. These outcrossed offspring should only be used in a BEW program.

BEW x BEW = All BEW. BEW x VM/VC = BEW and VM. VM/VC x VM/VC can produce BEW but the odds are smaller. In my experience, BEW x VM produces 2 BEW to 1 VM, and is my favored out-cross.

The shaded or Choc gene should be avoided in out-crosses. These varieties have a ruby glow in the eye that can translate in BEW as violet. The Standard states the eye is to be brilliant blue. REW should be avoided as well. It can mask the Vienna gene, and even trump it by producing more REWs than BEWs. "BEW" REWs, while showable, are mostly useless, except in a BEW program, with the possible exception of a pure REW program.
GROUP 1 - Self

Black
Black
Black

Chocolate

Blue

Himalayan

Sable Point

Broken
Black is a very useful variety. It can be used with any other variety. Black x Choc or Blue will produce either if both parents carry dilute or choc. It should be used with Blue to keep nails correct. Black x Himi will produce black points on the himis, or Black. Black x Sable Pt will produce Sable Pt, or Tort if both parents carry the ee gene.
GROUP 1 - Self

Chocolate
Chocolate
Black

Chocolate

Blue

Himalayan

Broken
Chocolate is the recessive of Black. Both parents must carry Choc to produce it. It can be used with any variety except shaded, Sable Pt, or Tort. Choc x Black will produce either if both parents carry Choc. Choc x Blue will produce Lilac if both parents carry dilute and Choc. Choc x Himi will produce choc points on the Himis or Choc.

*NOTE. Care should be taken when breeding Choc into Himi. If the Himis are used with shaded, shaded choc could result in future generations, and this is undesirable.
GROUP 1 - Self

Blue
Blue
Black

Chocolate

Broken
Blue is the dilute of Black. Both parents must carry the dilute gene to produce it. It can be used with any variety except Sable Pt and Tort. Blue x Black will produce either if both carry the dilute gene. Blue x Choc will produce Lilac if both parents carry Choc. Blue x Blue should be only be bred if nails are dark and matched. Blue x Himi will produce blue points on the himis, or Blue.
GROUP 1 - Self

Lilac
Lilac
Black

Chocolate

Broken
Lilac is the dilute of Chocolate. It is lighter than Blue with a soft choc cast, sometimes described as pink. Both parents must carry dilute and Choc to produce it. It can be used with any variety except shaded, Sable Pt and Tort. Lilac x Choc will produce either if both carry the dilute gene. As with all dilutes, care should be taken to keep nail color correct.

I don't yet have much experience with Lilac, hence the lack of photo. I expect the variety in the near future. I'll avoid Lilac in Himis as they will be too light for my taste.
GROUP 2 - Shaded

Siamese Sable
Siamese 

Sable
Siamese Smoke Pearl

Smoke Pearl Marten

Himalayan

REW

Broken
Sable x Smoke keeps the dilutes' nails well colored. Sia Sable x Himi or REW keep the Sable shading correct. Sable x Himi makes densely colored pts and nails on the Himis. I rarely breed Sable x Sable as this can make Seals which are unshowable. However, if the type is needed, I will risk it.
GROUP 2 - Shaded

Siamese Smoke Pearl
Siamese 

Smoke Pearl
Siamese Sable

Sable Marten

Seal

Broken
Smoke Pearl is the dilute of Sia Sable. Both parents must carry the dilute gene to produce it. I avoid dilute x dilute because of the risk of mismatched/white nails. If the nails are dark and matched, I will risk it.
GROUP 2 - Shaded

Sable Point
Sable Point
Sable Point

Himalayan

Siamese Sable

Black

Broken
Sable Point is the result of the "ee" non-extension gene. It is essentially a Sia Sable with most of the color removed from the body by the ee gene. Both parents must carry ee to produce Sable Pt. The ee gene can hide for generations, and be expressed when 2 rabbits carrying it come together. Clean body color is desired. Excess smut is a fault. Siamese Sable or Tort can cause smut. Himi can clean up the body color. Sable Pt x Himi produces "ee" himi or Sable Pt Himi. These will have patchy light choc points. They are useful with Sable Pt. The ee gene is also responsible for tort, orange, fawn, and unshowable tort otter (fox).

Sable Pt x dilute (blue) should be avoided. This can produce Blue Points or Blue Torts which are unshowable.
GROUP 2 - Shaded

Seal
Seal
Siamese Smoke Pearl

Smoke Pearl Marten

Himalayan

REW

Broken
Seals are unshowable, and the result of Sable x Sable. They received a double dose of the sable gene. They can be so dark as to appear black. The pedigree will usually tell if Seal or Black. Another way to tell is to examine the groin and footpads. Black will have a slate blue undercolor and grey footpads. Seal will have buffy undercolor and footpads. Seals are useful in getting good color and shading with Smoke, Himi and REW.

Very dark Sia Sables are often referred to as Seals. They can be shown if shading is visible, but they will be faulted for being too dark.
GROUP 4 - Tan Pattern

Sable Marten
Sable 

Marten
Smoke Pearl Marten

Siamese Smoke Pearl

REW

Broken
Same as for Siamese Sable. Sable Marten is a Sia Sable with Silver Marten trimmings. In my opinion, one of the most beautiful varieties. Sometimes a Sable Marten is too dark or a Seal Marten. Seal Marten can look like Black Silver Marten but the shaded gene will cause the color to be incorrectly brownish. I have used Himis to lighten Sable Marten with some success, but it's not recommended. There is a risk of unshowable Himi Martens, and these are only useful with dark Sable Martens. Himi Martens are proved early by the lack of color on the underside of the tail. White nostril and ear lacing will appear as they mature.
GROUP 4 - Tan Pattern

Smoke Pearl Marten
Smoke Pearl 

Marten
Sable Marten

Siamese Sable

Seal

Broken
Same as for Siamese Smoke Pearl.
GROUP 4 - Tan Pattern

Otter - Blue
Otter
Sable Marten

Smoke Pearl Marten

Siamese Sable

Siamese Smoke Pearl

Broken

Blue-Eyed White
I'm not doing Otters, but their type is useful with other varieties. I keep some around for that reason. Most breeders wouldn't breed otter x shaded, but I've found it a good way to get the type to shadeds. They're also being incorporated into my brokens and selfs.
GROUP 4 - Tan Pattern

Silver Marten - Blue
Silver 

Marten
Sable Marten

Broken
I don't do Silver Martens, but they show up in Otter, shaded Marten, Self, and Broken litters. I might keep a nice dilute Silver Marten to use with Broken. It's sometimes difficult to tell a Smoke Pearl Marten from a Blue Silver Marten at a young age. The pedigree will usually tell, and a Smoke Marten should show some sign of shading as it matures. It might be more silvery in color. Blue Marten will retain a deep blue color over all.
GROUP 5 - AOV

Himalayan (Himi)
Himalayan
Siamese Sable

Himalayan

Seal

Black

Chocolate

Blue
Himi x Sia Sable is one of my favorite matches. It keeps the Sable shading correct, and Himi points and nails densely colored. Himi x Himi if both have good color and type. I avoid breeding the dilute Himis together. Himi x Black, Choc, or Blue for point color. I avoid Lilac as the points will be too light for my taste.

Himi is a pseudo-albino, having ruby eyes. The Himi gene is temperature-sensitive and allows color to express on the extremeties. The point color will become more intense during cold weather. The best time to raise and show Himis is during the cooler months. "Cold Himis" are kits that have excess color on the back and head due to being chilled in the first few days of life. It looks like ticking. It recedes to the points as they mature and makes very nicely colored Himis.
GROUP 5 - AOV

Broken - Blanket Pattern
Broken-Blanket

Broken - Spot Pattern
Broken-Spot

Broken - False Charlie
Broken-Charlie
Black

Chocolate

Blue

Shaded

Tan Pattern
Broken can be any recognized color. They can be used with any variety except BEW. REW and Himalayan are not recommended. REW will hide the Broken gene, and Broken Himis are unshowable. Broken Himis are proven by the lack of color on feet. Broken should be bred according to other rules covering color breeding. White nails and other color faults should not be bred into Broken as the solid (non-Broken) offspring will carry these faults, too. Only a Broken rabbit can pass on the gene. If it's not Broken, it doesn't carry it. Any solid offspring won't pass it on, and can be shown and bred as their normal variety.

Broken x Broken will produce Charlies. So named for their Charlie Chaplin moustaches. These will be very lacking in color, often limited to sparce head markings. Most Broken breeders agree that it's not the best practice, however Charlies are useful with solid to produce more Brokens per litter. False Charlies (charlie-marked) are rabbits with the same sparce markings that have occurred in a broken x solid litter. They are true broken, but will be too lacking in color for show, and may pass on the same poor pattern.

While the solid offspring from a Broken litter cannot produce Broken, they can carry desired Broken pattern. Breeding these solid offspring to Broken should set the pattern desired. A poor pattern will be passed on as well. The Standard states that Broken must have at least 10% color, and no more than 50% color. Markings required include nose, eyes, and ears, and there must be color on the body. The Blanket pattern will have more color on body and head. The Spot pattern will resemble the English Spot breed with a spinal stripe and side spots. The nose spot is called a butterfly and even color on both sides of muzzle is desired. A half butterfly would be a fault, and breeding stock should be selected for balanced markings as this can be passed on.

NOTE: Vienna-marked (VM) from BEW is NOT BROKEN! The markings are quite different. They cannot be shown or bred as Broken. See Blue-Eyed White. Be wary of a pedigree that includes a Broken from non-broken parents. It can't happen. It may be a misidentified VM.


COMMON COLOR FAULTS & DQS

White spots, scattered white hairs. DQ
Cause: Undesirable gene modifiers.
Fix: Cull.

White, mismatched, or too light toenails. DQ (most common in dilute)
Cause: Undesirable gene modifiers (related to white spots), breeding dilute x dilute, faded due to age.
Fix: Cull in the case of mismatched or white. Breed to dark, dense color if too light, and avoid dilute x dilute. In the case of fading, select for darker color that holds well into mature age.

Seal / too dark. DQ / FAULT (shaded)
Cause: Breeding sable x sable, or black x shaded.
Fix: Lighten by breeding to Himi or REW.

Smut. FAULT (Sable Point)
Cause: Gene modifiers, breeding to Black, Sia Sable or Tort.
Fix: Select for clean body color, breed to Himi.

Himi Marten, Agouti Himi. DQ (Himalayan)
Cause: Carrying tan pattern or agouti. Defined by white undertail, white nostril and ear lacing. Agouti will also cause ticking on points.
Fix: Cull. Can use Himi Marten with shaded martens.

Broken Himi. DQ (Himalayan)
Cause: Breeding to Broken. Defined by lack of color on feet, broken nose spot.
Fix: Cull. Can be used to produce Broken, but will also produce more broken Himis.

Small or light points. FAULT (Himalayan)
Cause: Gene modifiers, breeding to REW.
Fix: Select for good points, breed to shaded or self.



8.5.07

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