Best viewed with a screen setting of 800x600 with color setting of True Color (32-bit).
Please be patient while graphics upload to your browser.


TopLists

	MoEZ FAQs & Tips (continued from previous page)

Borders/Edgings/Finishings
( also read curling )

Finishing The Last Row:
     When you get to the last row, starting from the right side, finish off by inserting hook in the next vertical (just like you have been doing), now yarn over and pull it through both loops, go to the next vertical and repeat the same step. Do this all the way to the left, there should only be 1 loop on the hook after each stitch is completed. This is known as a slip stitch. -- Val

Edging #1:

The edgings are real easy. I got the idea from Jacqui.

Row 1: Sc all around with 3 sc in 3 each corner.

Row 2: Sl st to middle of 3 sc in corner, ch 2, 2dc in same space, sk 2 st, 3 dc in next st all around with 3 dc ,ch 1, 3 dc in each corner.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.

   Depending on my mood and how the ghan looks, I continue repeating row 2 until I think it is okay. Sometimes just once or twice. I also change colors doing this. Then the last row in just a sc in each st and ch 1 in the corner all around. -- ???

Edging #2:

The way I finish most of mine is:

   Single crochet in back loop only of each stitch, at the corner 3 sc in both loops, continue around join with slip st.

   Turn, working on the back side, slip st to the corner, ch 1 sc in same space, ch 1, 2 sc in next sp of corner use both loops, now skip the first sc after the corner and sc in the "front loop only" of the 2nd sc, now sc in the 1st sc (the stitch you skipped) (frt lp only) this forms and "x".

   Now repeat: skip next sc, sc in fr lp of next sc, now sc in the one you didn't do to form another "X". Repeat around and only use the front loop only except the corners where you do 2 sc in both loops, ch 1, 2 sc in both loops. Slip st to ch 1 and turn.

   Repeat 1st round and turn and repeat second round.

This creates a nice edging but also helps to tame what little curl there is. Twice around seems to do it with the smaller hooks. The larger hooks may not need that much. I have also sc around with 3 in the corners (bk lp only) then I reverse sc or just slip stitch around to make the edges heavier, they will lay quite nicely this way. -- Val

Border #1:

The border is just a couple of single crochet and on the last row, I chain 6 single crochet in the next chain 6 and so on. Then I go back and go in my chain 6 and hook them all together to make it look like a braid. The corners I did ch 6, sc, ch 6 so you have two loops in the corner. It's just something I made up. It's a couple of single crochet rows and the next round is a reversed cross stitch.

   Reversed Cross Stitch: Skip next st, dc in next st, working around dc just made, dc in skipped st, and so on. -- ???

Border #2:

Doing the traditional stitches around the border sometimes are heavier than the afghan stitch. I would just make sure not to make the border too big. I have used hdc (half double crochet) stitches around instead of single crochet. It makes a fatter stitch and looks fuller than a dc border around. I do a single crochet around in one direction, then reverse direction and do a hdc round the other way, then reverse and do a single crochet round the other way again and I am done. Make sure to put 3 stitches in each corner stitch. -- Wild Di in CA

Border #3:

Canada afghan:

     Several people have asked me how I did the border on this afghan. I did each square separately working...1 row sc all round square, 1 st in each st and in each row. Then do 3 ch, (dc, ch1, 2dc) in corner st, *skip 3 sts, (2 dc, ch1, 2dc) in next st, rep from * round joining with sl st. Next sl st into corner, 3 ch, (dc, ch3, 2dc) in corner space, shell between corner shell and next shell, *shell between next 2 shells* rep from * to next corner (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in corner, work round. join with sl st. Ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc around, working 3 dc in each ch-3 corner space. Do not work in ch-1 spaces. join with sl st. After working border around each square I then joined all squares and then worked this around the whole afghan. -- Jacqui

Border #4:

Here's a real simple one:

     Sl st in first sc; ch 3; 4 dc in same st; sk next 2 sc; sc in next sc; sk next 2 sc; 5 dc in next sc; sk next 2 sc; sc in next sc; repeat around (you don't have to worry about doing special corners, just make sure that the 5 dc go into the corner stitch). You can change this to hdc if you like, or do a row or 2 of sc; a row of hdc and then this last row of shells in dc. -- Cis

Border #5:

This is the border I used on almost all my ghans until I started doing the reverse stitch. I got it from Jacqui in Australia.

Row 1. SC all around with 3 in each corner.

Row 2. Sl st to middle sc in corner. Ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc all in same st. Sk 2 st, 3 dc in next st all around with 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in each middle sc in corner.

Row 3. Sl st to middle ch 1 in corner. Ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc all in corner, ch 1 sp, 3 dc in each space made between 3 dc shells.

Row 4 & up. Repeat row 3 as many times are you like. You can change colors if you wish on these rows.

Last row. SC in each stitch around with 3 sc in each corner space. I usually drop down 1 hook size but not necessary. This is my own personal preference. -- Linda in NY

Putting A Border On An Afghan:

You can use a P. It is much easier to use the shorter hook to do borders. As the border is usually some kind of regular stitch, sc, dc, tc etc. Hope this helps. On Tweety and the Dolphins I did a border Jacqui had done.
Row 1: SC
Row 2: 3 dc in every 3rd stitch row 3 3 dc in space between the 3dc from previous row row 4 sc in each dc. In the corners I did 3 dc ch 1 3 dc. -- Linda

Mitering A Corner:

I miter a corner by doing 2 stitches (sc or dc, whichever you are using) chain 1, 2 stitches. Then when you go into that corner again you go into the chain and do the same thing 2 stitches 1 chain 2 stitches. You could do 2-2-2, but I prefer just the 1 chain. But depending on the yarn you're using, you could want to use 2. Hope this helps. -- Cis

Adding A Backing:

I put the backing on mainly for any baby blankets I do with graphs because I don't want to see an infant/toddler, getting a finger or toe stuck in the "knot" where the color changes are, even though I do overlap the stitches and weave in where/when it's cut. I personally prefer to "back" the ghan and it hides my changes and weaves. For infants, I just do it as precautionary work. I use a hook a size larger than I made the original with, simply makes making a piece for the back faster. Then I put "wrong" sides together, join with a row of sc all the way around, do another row of sc all the way around, then whatever border I want to put on them. The "cats" ghan I have on my Epson site was backed this way. I used the blue and burgundy colors that are in the front background, I made half blue and half burgundy, joined the back to the front and did a simple border to finish it off. It doesn't take that much longer to make the backing and it doesn't add any more weight to the piece (if you make sure to use the larger hook, that is) and it keeps it very soft and pliable. This is, of course, just a personal preference of mine and not by any means necessary. Most of graph ghans are quite beautiful on the front and back; I just mainly do it for the infant ones. But, by no means is it necessary. -- Cis

Continued On Next Page

back - top of page - Home - Welcome - E-mail Cheryl - TOC - Next Page

 Sign Guestbook   View Guestbook 

Web page background, site, and design created by Cheryl (a.k.a. "Cinnaminn").
Originally created 16 August 2002 and updated as of 26 March 2006.
Guestbook courtesy of HTML Gear. Some graphics courtesy of Lacefairy.