Courtly Lives - Saaremaa Island

Saaremaa Island
Written and researched by Margaret Odrowaz-Sypniewski

Saaremaa is the second largest island in the Baltic Sea. It has been inhabited for approximately five thousand years (5,000). Estonia was settled, since the eighth century, by people of Finno-Ugric stock. Saaremaa was mentioned in the Scandinavian sagas as "Eysysia." The Germans refer to this island as Oesel, after the Osilians. Saaremas is located the western part of Estonia. Throughout the years this island has fallen under many different flags.

"The Estonian people and their ancestors have not changed that much in the last 1500 years. Twentieth-century Estonia is approximately the size of the states of Vermont and New Hampshire Combined" (Raun, 3). On the island of Saaremaa (Osel), a circular or bunched village prevailed in pre-historic times, and they have no concept of nobility, princes, or kings. Instead the elite of their society included village elders, parish priests, or district leaders, who usually had an accumulation of land (their wealth). The ancients also believed in animism (spirits of nature). Nearly every ancient village had a sacrrd grove, with idols of their gods.

The history of Saaremaa is much like that of the other Baltic Islands. The Balts were a seafaring, piratical people. These pirates traded with surrounding areas and their boats traveled south to Arabian ports through inland waterways. Pirate settlements were at Arkona and Ralswick on Rügen island in the southern Baltic, the capital of Rugieris (a trading center) was also home to the largest pagan temples in Slavic Lands. All the Baltic Islands seemed to have pirates. There was also a trading center at Oribin, in Latvia; and Talinn in Estonia. Saaremaa was in the middle of these two area, allowing them quick acess to both.

The Unicorn Horn Swindle:

The Unicorn Horn Swindle regarded the Vikings trade in "unicorn horns." The Vikings sold Narwhal tusks as the horn of the unicorn, which was then thought to possess marvelous powers. The unicorn horn was thought to be an aphrodisiac, an antidote for poisons, a cure for epilepsy, and a remedy for diarrhea. A piece of this horn could be used to detect poisons in food or to purify water. The cunning Viking traders found eager buyers for all the unicorn horns they could get from the arctic narwhal.

In 410, Tordo, the thirty-third king of Sweden, armed his country against a mighty fleet of Estonians, Curonians, and Ulmigeri (Prussians), whom he forced to retreat. Meanwhile, the Saxons took their turn to ravage Gorland, Holstein, Denmark, Pomerania, Curonia, and Estonia.

The Visigoths (under Götrijk) conquered the Prussians, Curonians, Samogytians, and Estonians (spoke a Finnish rather than a Baltic dialect), and after this Götrijk handed his command to his son, Filmer, and returned to Gautland (Gotland) where he re-established his kingdom.

Ermanerik conquered the Vandals and Estonians.

Swedish King Erik the Victorious (940-944) thwarted an invasion of Estonians and invaded them in turn, forcing them to become his vassals. A pirate named Ascomanni or Wichingi (Viking) and his crew ravaged the coast of Frisia in 994, and sailed up the Elbe. His name suggests that he came from the Estonian province of Askala, the "land of the wizards."

Norwegian King Olaf Tryggvason was captured by the Estonian Vikings and enslaved when he was a boy, in 970.

Olav I Tryggvason/Olav I
Olav was born circa 968 and was killed in battle on August 31, 1000, at age 32. His father was Tryggve Olavsson from Vika (Oslo) and his mother was Astrid Eriksdatter from Jaren. His grandfather was Olav Geiristha/Alf II and his great-grandfather was Harold I Fairhair and his great grandmother was Svanhild.
Olac I married four times: (1) Geira from Germany (971-990) (2) Gysa from Ireland (975-?) who bore his a son named Tyggve Olavsson (993-1033) (3) Gudrun Skeggessdatter (b. circa 975) (4) Queen Thyre Haraldatter of Denmark. Queen Thyre was born circa 978, and was the daughter of King Blaaten of Denmark, and she was the Sister of Svein Forkbear of Denmark, father of Cnut.
Olav reigned from 995-1000.

Saco Grammaticus, writing in the late twelfth century, and Henry of Livonia, writing in 1227 tell about Estonian pirate ships and tactics. Eesti Vabariik is Estonia's official name.

Of course, Estonian was originally a pagan nation. Their dieties were:

Taevataat - the Estonian "sky grandfather."

Maan-Emo - the Estonian "earth mother."

Tooru.Taara - the Estonian "thunder god."

(They also worshipped serpents and birds and sacrificied live men whom they bought from merchants).

By the winter of 1220 nearly all of continental Estonia was under German or Danish domination. Saaremann was free of foreign control. In 1223, Saaremaa Island led a successful uprising that overthrew German-Danish power in the country and inflicted heavy losses on the Sword Brethren. Mainland Estonia was subdued by 1224 and Saaremaa was re-conquered in 1227 (Raun).

In 1227, the island was conquered by the Knights of the Sword and governed by its own bishops until 1561.

In the early 1260's Kuressaere Castle was built for the bishops . The first recorded documents regarding this castle are in the 1380's.

In 1559, Bishop Joannes V. Münchhausen sold his property, on the island, to the Danes. They erected earthworks and added a 30 meter moat, filled with seawater. The Danes restored Kuressaare Castle again from 1600-1640.

With the collapse of medieval Livonia, Russia, Denmark, Sweden and Poland were in various locations. The Livonian War lasted a quarter of a century and devastated Baltic life. As a result of this war 75% of some parts of Estonia were effected by war, disease (plague), and famine. After the Livonian Wars, Baltic-German nobility was powerful in northern Estonia. Saaremaa nobility received broad autonomy from the Danish state before 1645, even though Denmark owned the majority of the land. Christina (1632-1654) was one member of the Livland nobility and he received recognition as a corporation in 1634. Many privileges, for nobility, continued for twenty years.

Some Manor Houses:

Kõljala Manor: The earliest written records of Kõljala Manor date to the year 1509. The oldest remaining parts of the manorhouse itself, located in the cellars, date to the 17th century. During those years the manor belonged to the head of the Saaremaa nobility, Otto von Poll, whose lifestyle certainly was different from the rest of the island nobility. Even though the manor at that time was only a single story, limestone building, it is known that the rooms were lit by ten metal chandeliers, the windows were coverd by curtains interwoven with gold threads, and the walls were covered with twelve large Flemish tapestries.

Laimjala Manor was founded during the second half of the 17th century. Like most of Saaremaa's manors, it belonged to the government during the 18th century. The single - story house did not differ much from the rest of the island's manor houses. In 1793 it was given to Maj.Gen. Jakob Pistor. During the following years, it changed hands many times.

Loona Manor house has a long and complicated history. The earliest parts of the buildings date from the middle ages, vestiges of a fortress - type building can be found in the cellars, where the niches for the beams that protected the main entry still remain, as does a stairway built into the wall, as well as fragments of stone carvings. The present building was constructed in the 17th century, using the remaining standing walls from a previously burnt building.

Loone Manor is located on the Kuressaare - Valjala - Kuivastu road at the 25 kilometer mark, one kilometer northwest of the road. The one story stone building with high cellars was built towards the end of the 18th century. The neogothic style entry, over which hangs a finely carved stone coat of arms of the Güldenstubbe family, was added in 1864. Among the fine stonework on the building are the cornices, decorative window frames, and the chiseled building corners.

Loona Manor house has a long and complicated history. The earliest parts of the buildings date from the Middle Ages, vestiges of a fortress - type building can be found in the cellars, where the niches for the beams that protected the main entry still remain, as does a stairway built into the wall, as well as fragments of stone carvings. The present building was constructed in the 17th century, using the remaining standing walls from a previously burnt building. Lööne Manor is located on the Kuressaare - Valjala - Kuivastu road at the 25 kilometer mark, one kilometer northwest of the road. The one story stone building with high cellars was built towards the end of the 18th century. The neogothic style entry, over which hangs a finely carved stone coat of arms of the Güldenstubbe family, was added in 1864. Among the fine stonework on the building are the cornices, decorative window frames, and the chiseled building corners.

Oti Manor is at the fifty kilometer mark on the Kuressaare - Laimjala road, and from there another two kilometers southeast. The somewhat eclectic one story manor house was apparently built during the 18th century. Later verandas, resting on slender pillars, were added to both ends of the building. The imposing, classisistlic two-story entry was added in 1850. Over the entry hangs a finely carved stone coat of arms of the Aderkass family. The building is decorated with other examples of the stone carver's art, such as the fine dolomite corners, the soffits, and decorative window frames.

Pidula Manor is located on one of the more popular tourist routes, approximately 11 kilometers from Kihelikonna toward Mustjala. It is a simple, one story building, with a high tile roof. Because of its proportions and discrete but finely worked details, it is considered one of Estonians most attractive Baroque style manor houses. It is believed that the building dates to the middle of the 18th century, the additions in the back of the building were built at the beginning of the 19th century.

Pilguse manor is located on the Lümanda - Sääre road at the three kilometer marker, then three kilometers toward Karala. The building dates to the second half of the 18th century. The Baroque style manor house has a massive roof, but the addition of a second story and the widened windows have destoyed the original composition. The building is now part of a complex that operates as a residence for the mentally ill.

Padaste Manor is located on the island of Muhu, surrounded by fields of junipers, and on the edge of the seashore. The Tudor - style manor house was built in the 19th century, the outbuildings follow local traditional building styles. It is surrounded by large lindens, maples and ash trees. The manor is in the process of being restored, and it is operated as a very pleasant hotel and restaurant.

Tolluste Manor was founded in 1528 when the Bishop of Saare - Lääne, G. von Tiesenhausen expropriated the land. During the second half of the 16th century, the neighboring Tõlsen lands were added. The manor apparently got its name from the Tõlsen family. According to tradition, the manor received its name from Saaremaa's folk hero, the giant Big Tõll. Big Tõll is even supposed to be buried close by."

This information regarding manor houses was written by ...(Click Here for more about Saaremaa at their excellent website!

By 1583, Saaremaa (Oesel) Island was a Danish territory, while mainland Estonia was Swedish (until 1710).

In 1592, Sigmund III of Poland, a Swede by birth and heir to the Swedish throne, became the King of Sweden.

In 1645, Sweden took possession of Saaremaa Island, and they began to modernize the castle in 1684. They made a new main gate. On September 15, 1710, the Swedish garrison, who were dying of the plague, surrended to the Russians. The Russians left in spring 1711, but not until they destroyed the wings of the castle's bastions, the cannon tower, and some convent vaults , and the interiors of the defense tower.

In 1721, Saaremaa Island was united to Russia, and from 1740-1750 the registers showed 172 noble families in Livland. 126 noble families in Estland, and 25 nobles in Saaremaa. The chair of the nobility was listed in their records as Ritterschas hauptmann.

Tsarist rule in Estland and Livland was a golden age for the Baltic nobility. All Russian tsars and tsarinas looked upon the nobility as the first estate of the realm and the major social foundation of their rule. They did not regard German characteristics of the Baltic nobility as a shortcoming.

From 1783-1796 many of the perks of the nobility and urban elite were revoked. Their executive bodies of the Baltic diets were abolished, and all estate owners then received voting rights, making them equal to the rest of the population.

The House of the Nobility, on Saaremaa, was built by von Dellingshausen at the end of the 18th century, now it accommodates the County Government of Saaremaa. From the beginning of the 19th century the house belonged to the Nobility of Saaremaa, and from 1912 to the Noblemen's Club Resource. The County Government of Saaremaa bought the house in 1920.

In 1835, the castle was sold to the Knighthood of Saaremaa for 3,000 rubles.

By 1858, the nobility is only 0.6% of the general population (Raun). Many nobles moved to areas where their powers were more like they felt they deserved, thus only a few remained in Estonia, after these same powers were weakened.

From 1904-1912, architects, W. Neumann and H. Seuberlich, rebuilt the Defense tower, window frames were renewed and widened, new ovens and staicases were built, and a coat of arms of the local noblemen were put upon the walls of the Cloister. Offices were added and a museum.

In February 1919, there were no Bolshevik organizations on Saaremaa. However, there were Soviet naval and air bases on the islands of Saaramaa and Hiiumaa, from 1935-1940.

By January 1944 the German military began to approach the borders of Estonia once again. On February 1st, all Estonian men born between 1904 and 1923 were called for military service. 38,000 men were involved in the resistence movement to stop the Russian occupation. They also waited for the capitulation of the Nazi Germans to the Allies. Counting new draftees there were 50,000-60,000 men in the military. However, the men were poorly supplied with weapons, ammuniation, and clothes. However, the Soviets were unable to capture Saaremaa, since the Germans held out until late November.

In 1968, architect, K. Aluuv made more renovations. Roofs were rebuilt, a concrete staircase, and new ceilings were installed. They also renovated the fortress, made newer entrances and a bridge. The moat was cleaned and the interior and exterior both got a facelift. Modern day Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania self-proclaimed their independence in 1990, after fifty years of Soviet occupation. Estonia got its independance on November 16, 1990.

SOURCES:

Graham-Campbell (editor), James. Cultural Atlas of the Viking World New York: Facts on File, 1994, 184.

Nicolle, PhD, David. Lake Peipus 1242. Campaign series - 45. Oxford:Osprey Press, 1998.

Oxford Dictionary of the Vikings Oxford University Press p. 175.

Parker (editor), Sybil P. World Geographical Encyclopdia. Volume 4 - Europe. New York: McGraw-Hill, Inc.

Raun, Toivo U. Estonia and the Estonians. Stanford, CA.: Hoover Institution Press, 2001.

This Saaremaa Website was used for photos and information about Saaremaa Manor Houses (under Places of interest in Saaremaa.