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BRITISH ISLES

We travel to the British Isles as often as possible as it is probably our favorite place to visit. One trip in particular stands out and that's the one I will write about this time. This trip to England was the one that made the greatest impression about this wonderful country. We previously went to the touristy areas on touring coaches with a kazillion other tourists. That was all we knew back then. Since that time we have discovered the beauty in traveling with small groups, to areas that are not tourist traps and relatively unknown to Americans.

The UK is covered by canals which used to be the roadways for carrying goods to market. Boats could carry much more weight that animal drawn carts and do it much more easily. They were also the way royalty traveled from one place to the other. Palaces and/or castles were always 20 miles apart- the distance the monarchs could travel in one day's time. (The difference between a castle and a palace is a castle is fortified against attack and will be walled and/or moated.) These canals are still used today and there are two kinds of barges, wide and narrow draft. The wide ones go on the larger waterways and the narrowboats on the smaller canals. The are sized to fit into the locks they have to navigate in the area in which they berth. Some are so narrow, there needs to be two (which is what we were on). One houses the public areas, kitchen, diningroom, salon, etc. The other has the sleeping cabins. Ours had five cabins, all with their own shower, toilet and sink. They travel separately but are joined while docked for access to both boats. There were just four of us, not including the husband, wife, son and dog that owned and ran the boats.

We were in Cambridgeshire in the middle eastern portion of England in an area known as East Anglia. Our boats were named Barkis & Peggoty and were on the upper reaches of the river Great Ouse in a town named Brampton.

I have always loved Britain and wondered how one could decide where they would want to live if they moved there. This trip was my answer. It is that beautiful. We would take off every morning and have to navigate locks throughout the day - all of which were worked by us. We would pitch in to the the water level raised and lowered. We went to several different villages every day, one more picturesque than the other. Thatched roof houses everywhere with populations in the hundreds.

England is covered with 3.5 million miler of footpaths, some of which followed the river. We would often walk from one place to another, rather than ride in the boat (we would usually beat them to our destination) and take Benjamin, the owners' dog, with us. We would go to pubs and talk with the local people. Some of the pubs were 1,000 years old. This is such a good way to get to know the people and they are so friendly. They don't see many Americans or tourists at all. The owner's wife is a gourmet cook so you can imagine how wonderful the meals were. She shopped every day in the villages where we stopped and everything was perfectly fresh. We fell in love with this area and would settle there in a minute.

The second week of our trip we went on a walking tour of Devon and Cornwall in the southwestern part of the island. If you've ever heard of "Lands End", this is where it is.

Everyday we set out on a hike through the beautiful coastal countryside of this area, stopping for lunch in a quiet village. Farmers are required to accommodate footpaths through their property and most days we were walking alongside sheep and cows. Once again, the villages were old, small and beautiful. In Cornwall we stayed in a village called St. Mawes and the ruins of a castle were in view from our hotel (the hotels have about 10 rooms). There was a coach that took us to different destinations each day and from there we would walk and met up with the coach (people that preferred not to walk would stay with the coach and tour from it).

Each village was different as was every walk - some through forests, some coastal, others through fields, etc.

In Devon we stayed in an historic town named Dunster and our hotel dated back to 1500. Here again there was a castle just behind us which is still inhabited. The same sort of scenario as in Devon, walking everyday. There is an area here called Doone Valley where the story "Lorna Doone" was based. We learned more about this country in these two weeks than in all our other trips to the UK combined. There is nothing like going where the "people" are and experiencing their lives, as they live it. We'd go again in a heartbeat.

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Email: o2bnuk@webtv.com