Dressing
ProcedureRabbits
are killed by one of two methods. The preferred method is dislocation of the
neck. The rabbit is held firmly by the rear legs and head; it is stretched
full length. Then with a hard, sharp pull, the head is bent backward to dislocate
the neck. The rabbit can also be struck a hard, quick blow to the skull behind
the ears. A blunt stick or side of the hand is commonly used to incapacitate
the rabbit. Both methods quickly render the rabbit unconscious. After
dislocation or stunning, the rabbit is hung by one of the hind legs above the
hock joint. The head is immediately removed to allow complete bleeding. The
forefeet are then removed. The next step is to cut the skin around the hock
joints of the legs and then to cut between these points across the lower part
of the body. Remove the tail and pull the skin down and forward over the body.
The skins of young or fryer age rabbits are easily removed in this way; it
is more difficult to remove the skins of older rabbits. If skins are saved,
they should be handled as indicated in the Rabbit
Skins and Pelts
section
below. After
the head, forefeet and skin are removed, the carcass, while still hanging,
is opened to remove the viscera. Make a cut from the lower part of the abdomen
near the anus to the mid-point of the lowest rib. The intestinal tract and
lungs are normally removed. Liver, kidneys, and heart remain with the carcass.
Remove the carcass from the hanger and cut off the rear feet at the hock joint. Wash
the carcass with clean, cold water to remove hair and any other soil or debris,
and store it at a cold temperature, preferably at 35oF.
and not over 40oF.
Do not hold dressed carcasses for any length of time in water as they absorb
excess moisture which becomes considered as a contaminant. Rabbit
Skins And PeltsRabbit
skins and pelts vary widely in quality and value. The different types of fur
characteristics vary depending on the breed type. Skins from the young of any
breed are normally of poor quality and of less value than those from adult
animals. Those with dense fur, that is not easily removed from the skin, are
most desirable. Preparation
of skins or pelts begins with the removal at slaughter. Exercised care to avoid
cuts or tears, and removal of body fat that often remains attached to the skin.
As the pelts are removed, turn them inside out while still warm and moist.
Place them on wire stretchers or shapers with the front leg casings on one
side. Shapers can be made from No. 9 gauge galvanized wire. The shapers extend
or expand the pelts to their full length, but do not stretch them out of shape.
Fasten the rear legs to the ends of the wire shapers with a clothes pins or
some other fastener. Hang the pelts in a well-ventilated drying area, but not
in direct sunlight. After the skins are dry the wire shaper is removed. Tanning
SkinsRegardless
of the method used for tanning, proper preparation of the skin is an important
step. This involves softening, removal of the adhering fat and flesh, and removal
of oil in the skin. Open the skin with a midline cut along the ventral or belly
side so that it can be stretched on a flat surface. Scrape adhering flesh and
fat from the skin using a blunt knife or similar object. Removing all oil is
essential for proper tanning. Working the skin in gasoline or other fat solvent
is desirable to remove the last traces of fat. Dried
skins are softened by soaking in several changes of water for about 1-3 hours.
Time required for softening will vary; soaking time is kept to a minimum since
excessive soaking tends to loosen the hair. Addition of borax or bicarbonate
of soda (about 1 ounce per gallon) aids in softening, and a little soap or
detergent aids in removal of the fat. Salt-Alum
TanningPrepare
the solutions as follows: - Dissolve
1 pound of ammonium aluminum sulfate or potassium aluminum sulfate (alum) in
1 gallon of water.
- Dissolve
4 ounces of sodium carbonate and 8 ounces of sodium chloride (salt) in 1/2
gallon of water.
- Slowly
add the soda-salt solution to the alum solution with vigorous stirring.
- Mix
flour with the combined solutions to make a thin paste, first mixing the flour
with a little water to aid in preventing lumps.
Prepare
the skins as previously described and stretched or tack to a flat surface.
Coat the skin with a layer of the paste about 1/8"
thick and cover lightly with paper or cloth. Allow skins to stand for about
24 hours, remove the paste, and apply a second coating. A third treatment may
be required for thick skins. The last coating should remain for 3-4 days. Remove
the paste and wash skins in a solution of borax or soda (1 ounce per gallon
of water). Squeeze out (do not wring) excess solution; rinse in plain water
and squeeze out excess. Stretch, and when nearly dry, work the skin by rubbing
and pulling over the edge of a table, as in polishing shoes with a cloth. Stretching
and working the skin is necessary for softening the finished skin. If the skin
is rough, it can be sanded with a coarse sandpaper block. A thin coating of
Neat's foot oil, glycerin, or other leather conditioner improves pliability. This
process is considered slightly better than the salt-acid method that follows,
but the finished product is usually harder and more working may be required
to make it pliable. It may be necessary to resoak the skin, partially dry it,
and repeat the rubbing in order to make it more pliable. Tanning
is also accomplished by soaking skins for 2-4 days in the solution before addition
of flour. This amount of solution is adequate for 3 or 4 rabbit skins. Salt-Acid
TanningPrepare
the solution as follows: - Dissolve
1 pound of sodium chloride (salt) in 1 gallon of water.
- Carefully
add 1/2 ounce of concentrated sulfuric acid to the salt solution (Caution:
Sulfuric acid is very corrosive and must be handled with care. Avoid contact
with skin or clothing. Store acid and the finished solution in glass or earthen
containers--never metal.) When adding acid to the salt solution, pour in slowly
with constant stirring. If the acid or mixture contacts the skin, rinse immediately
with a solution of bicarbonate of soda.
- Addition
of the acid generates heat; the solution is ready for use after it has cooled.
Skins
tanned by this method are prepared in the manner as previously described. Place
the skin in the salt-acid solution so that it is fully covered and allow it
to remain for 1-3 days with periodic stirring. When tanned, remove from tanning
bath, rinse in plain water, rinse a second time in a solution of borax or soda
(1 ounce per gallon of water), and finish with another water rinse. Squeeze
out excess water, stretch, allow to partially dry, then finish the skin as
described in the salt-alum method. Materials
for tanning may be obtained from certain biological supply companies or handcraft
shops. Procedures for different tanning methods will vary and instructions
should accompany materials marketed for tanning. |