"Winterizing"
is not just for equipment in cold-weather climates. Any equipment that sits
idle for long needs the extra attention. | On
equipment with plastic fuel tanks (like that above), drain the tanks before
storage. Conversely, you should fill metal fuel tanks to prevent them from
rusting. In either case, drain the carburetor bowl. |
Generally,
equipment managers "winterize" equipment to increase or maintain performance
in winter or prevent problems after long periods of winter storage. However,
this is not only necessary in the winter. Many engines that operate in areas
that see no winter at all still need this type of service. Therefore, I like
to refer to this as seasonal
service,
not "winterizing." Some
people perform seasonal maintenance simply because the owner’s manual tells
them to, without understanding that good practical reasons exists to perform
this maintenance. It helps the engine perform better and last longer. Seasonal
maintenance also reduces down time and repair bills. Whenever an engine does
not run for an extended time (6 to 8 weeks or more), regardless of climate,
you should perform this service. Step1:
Choose a suitable storage site The
storage location you choose for your equipment is important. If you store the
engine out of direct sunlight, your results will be far better. Sunlight causes
problems because it warms up metal parts, which then cool down when the sun
no longer strikes the equipment. This causes water condensation to form. In
a semi-sealed area such as a carburetor fuel bowl or a crankcase, this condensation
can accumulate. When this happens in cold climates, ice can form in these areas.
The result may be broken parts and big repair bills. However,
even in warm climates this is still a problem because water in the fuel system
will cause an engine to run roughly or quit. Plus, if you allow water to remain
in the fuel bowl for an extended period, it can cause oxides to form on the
aluminum parts. These white particles often dislodge and plug vital parts such
as the fuel passages. I have even found such severe pitting that I had to replace
the entire carburetor because some parts had completely dissolved. Water
in the crankcase can blend with the oil or cling to unprotected metal, causing
rust to form on machined parts. Sunlight can also cause plastic and rubber
parts-such as hoses and rubber manifolds-to fail from prolonged intense exposure.
Good storage sites are cool and dark (shaded). In such sites, the temperature
is less likely to vary enough to cause condensation to form. Step
2: Prepare the fuel system Cooler
temperatures also minimize evaporation of the fuel during storage. Usually
a smaller volume of fuel evaporates more quickly than a large volume of fuel.
For this reason, I suggest that you drain your carburetor fuel bowls, but keep
the fuel tank as full as you can. Another reason to keep the fuel tank full
is to keep the unpainted surfaces of the tank coated with fuel. This will keep
rust from forming on exposed areas. One last reason to keep fuel tanks full
is that air temperature changes more quickly than liquid temperatures. Thus,
the temperature swings won’t be as great with a full tank, and you won’t end
up with nearly as much condensation. If
your equipment has a plastic fuel tank, don’t think that you are in the clear.
The tank may not rust, but you still have to deal with condensation. Therefore,
if the size and situation allows, drain the plastic tank as well as the carburetor.
Then you should not have any metal parts that will rust. This
is a good place for a word of caution about two-stroke engines that use a diaphragm-type
carburetor. If you drain the fuel from these engines, you may cause diaphragms
to crack or harden. In this case, I feel it’s wise to keep the fuel tank full
and to use a chemical fuel additive designed for storage. In addition, these
small carburetors are especially susceptible to varnish formation. This is
another reason to use chemical fuel additives instead of draining the system. Step
3: Repairing any fuel-system problems after storage If
you stored your equipment properly, you will probably have few repairs to make
when you bring it back into service. However, if you neglected to prepare your
equipment properly for storage, you may need to perform some repairs. *
Four-stroke engines.
With
four-stroke engines, the storage damage you are most likely to experience is
gummy carburetors or dirt. The dirt is usually a result of the varnish (the
residue left behind after fuel has evaporated) remaining in the fuel bowls.
If you catch it early enough, it may be soft and gummy. However, if you leave
it for an extended time, it turns to hard crystals. These crystals can dislodge
and float around in the fuel bowl when you add new fuel. They then can plug
the small orifices that control the fuel flow to the motor. To
remove varnish in the early stages is easy. Simply spray some choke-and-carburetor
cleaner in the problem areas, and it will rinse away. Another trick is to use
compressed air for the problem areas and tight passages. The problem becomes
more difficult the longer you leave it unattended. If the varnish is hard,
you first must use dip-type carburetor cleaner. You usually can find this type
of cleaner at automotive-supply stores. Dip-type
cleaner is highly caustic, so be careful in how you handle this material. Read
the label
for
soak times and proper clean up. Most carburetor part dips can dissolve small
rubber parts, so you must completely dismantle the entire carburetor and remove
all rubber pieces before using the dip. Take the carburetor completely apart
so the chemical can reach all parts and passages. In many cases, it may be
necessary to soak the carburetor two, three or more times. Be
sure to follow the label’s time schedule for keeping the carburetor in the
solvent because it can destroy the metal parts if you leave them in the dip
for too long. If the dip needs additional time to remove deposits completely,
remove and clean the parts and then repeat the process rather than exceed the
recommended time limits in a single dip. I have seen some cases where aluminum
parts were pitted so badly from excessive dip times that they required replacement.
If
you find that your problem areas are in the small air bleeds and vents, use
a small parts-tag wire or a torch tip cleaner. However, use
caution
with
this method because it is easy to enlarge the holes if you are too forceful. *
Two-stroke engines.
You
can use many of the same methods for two-stroke engines. However, be aware
that you may find more rubber parts and diaphragms that the solvents can damage.
Fortunately, the oil/gas mixture in two-stroke engines helps keep the varnish
in a softer, gummier stage for a longer time. Step
4: Clean and repair fuel tanks if needed You
can clean fuel tanks in much the same way as carburetors-you just don’t have
as many parts with which to deal. The first step in cleaning a fuel tank is
to drain it to see what kind of problem you may have. If
the problem is rust, pour a small pack of BBs in the tank with some parts-washing
solution and shake it vigorously. This loosens the large, scaly pieces of rust.
After you have shaken them around, pour the BBs into a paint strainer (to save
them for use later). Now flush the tank several times with clean parts-washing
solvent to remove any remaining loose debris. If
you caught the problem early, you might not have to do anything more than this.
However, if you find pitting or small holes in the tank, you will need to seal
the inside of the tank with a liquid seal made
specifically
for gas tanks.
Avoid
other types of sealers because the fuel might dissolve them, causing more problems
farther downstream (in the carburetor). Just
because you have a plastic fuel tank on your equipment, you are not out of
danger. Dried fuel can still cause a varnish-type material to form in the tank,
and it can plug the fuel system just as badly as rust. Fortunately, the BB
method works as well in plastic tanks as it does in steel tanks. Although plastic
tanks are not maintenance-free, they still are more trouble-free than steel
tanks. Thus, if you have to buy a replacement, select a plastic tank if it’s
available for your equipment. If
you use fuel additives, be sure they are compatible with your fuel system.
Keep in mind that manufacturers usually market these additives for automobiles.
Therefore, the containers often are scaled for a 15- to 20-gallon fuel tank,
not a 2- to 5-gallon tank. Read the label to see if it provides specific instructions
regarding how much to add. If not, be sure to proportionally reduce the amount
you add to account for the smaller tank size. Step
5: Maintaining fuel- and oil-injection systems If
an oil-injection system (most smaller engines such as trimmers and saws do
not use oil injection) requires repair, it’s usually because of dirt that got
into the system, not because of some problem with the oil itself. Cleaning
oil systems is simple: just disassemble them, wash the parts and reassemble.
Oil is quite stable and has a long shelf life. Therefore, storage doesn’t usually
affect its quality. The best advice I can give you is to stay with a known
brand of oil instead of a generic type. Conversely,
fuel-injection systems are prone to some long-term storage problems. One of
the most common is gumming from varnish buildup. This will cause injector units
to malfunction. No really good way exists to drain an injector unit completely,
so the best prevention is to use chemical fuel additives for storage instead
of trying to drain the system. If
an injector still works but you don’t feel it is running quite right, you can
try additives for injection systems that you pour directly into the gas tank.
As the fuel passes through the system, it will clean light
deposits
from injectors. Other than this, the only way to repair an injector is to replace
it with a new one, so heavier deposits may require you to replace the injectors.
If
you have to change an injector, be sure to wait until all of the engine parts
(especially mufflers and manifolds) are completely cool. Moreover, be sure
to clean up any spills that happened during the repair. Remember to change
all the fuel filters as well as the injectors. This will prevent any fuel contamination
from entering your new injectors. A
few final notes about fuel: *
Although it is possible that dirt or water in your fuel system came from your
fuel supplier, don’t overlook your own storage containers. *
All fuel systems benefit from in-line fuel filters, but make sure the ones
you use are suitable for your system-fuel-injection systems use high pressure
or volume and can tear a conventional filter apart. *
Reformulated gasoline usually contains alcohol, which has a natural tendency
to draw moisture from the air around it. If you are in a region where reformulated
gasoline is used, be aware that storing your equipment with this type of fuel
in an environment with high humidity can cause a buildup of water in the gas
just by letting it sit around. Don’t forget that this can happen with gas cans
too, not just fuel tanks. Step
6: Consider seasonal service for cooling systems Up
until now, this discussion has applied to air-cooled as well as liquid-cooled
engines. However, the cooling system itself also needs attention-every year
on your liquid-cooled machines. Most equipment today is either all aluminum
or at least has aluminum heads and radiators. Thus, it is important to use
only coolants that are compatible with aluminum systems. Fortunately, most
coolants are suitable. The problem usually shows up with fleet accounts that
buy coolant in 55-gallon drums. Occasionally, an equipment manager will purchase
bulk coolant that is suitable only for steel protection and then, forgetting
this fact, use the coolant that’s on hand for all the engines. Aluminum
radiators transfer heat efficiently until they begin to plug with mineral and
dirt buildup. Thus, you should change the coolant at least once a season. Use
distilled water when blending the 50/50 mix to prevent mineral buildup in the
cooling system. At the same time, also check all hoses for cracks and soft
spots that could cause costly downtime the following season. In addition, inspect
the belts for cracks or other damage and check the operator’s log for any reported
cases of overheating. If so, now would be a good time-while the system is drained
and flushed-to replace head gaskets and thermostats. These are the two most
common causes for overheating. Finally,
always check the coolant level and, in cold climates, check the level of freeze
protection your coolant offers. Testing laboratories can evaluate coolants
and give an indication of system wear and other problems before they get out
of hand. This type of testing is called "cool scan." Step
7: Don’t forget the rest of the equipment Finally,
remember that the engine is only part of the equipment. Gearboxes and drive
trains also have special needs for seasonal storage. These components are often
sealed and forgotten—until they fail. When they do, they can be as costly to
repair and cause as much downtime as any engine. When
you shop, look for features such as plastic tanks and the quality of the fuel
and cooling systems. These are often-overlooked aspects, but making the right
choices could save you a lot of maintenance expense down the road.
Seasonal
Maintenance TipsFor
proper long-term storage: *
Choose a shaded, cool storage site *
Keep metal fuel tanks full, but drain plastic fuel tanks *
For 4-stroke engines, drain the carburetor bowls *
For 2-stroke engines and those with fuel injection, use chemical additives
(fuel stabilizers) instead of draining the carburetor *
Be especially wary of storing reformulated gasoline, which can absorb water
directly from a humid atmosphere. To
repair rusted or varnished fuel tanks: *
Shake BBs and parts cleaner in the tank to remove debris *
Use a fuel-tank sealer to repair any pitting on the inside of the fuel tank *
If you need to replace a tank, use a plastic replacement. To
remove varnish deposits: *
Use "choke-and-carburetor cleaner" to remove light varnish deposits in carburetors *
For heavy deposits, dismantle carburetor and clean with dip-type carburetor
cleaner *
For small air bleeds and vents, use a tip cleaner or small wire to clear the
orifice. For
fuel-injection systems: *
Use "fuel-injection cleaner" (fuel additive) for light varnish deposits in
the injectors *
Replace injectors with heavy varnish deposits *
Be sure you also replace fuel filters when you service the injectors. For
good cooling-system performance: *
Use only distilled water for your coolant/water radiator mix *
Make sure the coolant is aluminum-compatible *
Have your coolant tested for freeze protection. |