SMEARING
You generally want to smear (usually the space beneath your big toe) as much of the sole over as much surface area as possible, thus maximizing the friction. Much of the art comes from the ability to choose just the right place to step, having a keen eye for any irregularities, rough spots or indentations. Even the most flawless face usually has slight ripples and above these ripples is a lower-angled-spot- if only a single degree less than the mean angle. An experienced climber would scour the face for these. In smaller dishes or scoops, the heel is kept rather high when pure frictioning, for this increases the frontal pressure on the sole. On more uniform slopes, a lowered heel puts the relatively wide rubber under the ball of the foot to the rock while putting the calf muscle in a more relaxed position. Try it both ways. Smearing places a greater strain on the feet and calves than edging does.
Perhaps more than in any other climbing, keeping your weight correctly balanced over your feet is absolutely essential when smearing. A good exercise is to get on a slab and, starting from an upright posture, slowly lower your torso closer to the rock. You will immediately feel that the closer you get to the rock, the less your shoes will stick. If the foot slips, try to push into the rock more by moving your center of gravity out, away from the rock, or by pulling out slightly on the handholds.
Discovering just how steep an angle you can smear on and picking the optimum foot placements is a function of experience, but as with face climbing, smearing is natural and readily learned however insecure it may seem at first. In the era of the hard-soled rock shoes, particularly when many rock shoes had cleated soles, smearing was a risky practice, rarely done. With today's sticky rubber soles, smearing has become the favored means of using ill-defined footholds.
EDGING
The practice of placing the very edge of the shoe on any hold which is clear-cut - the serrated edge of a flake, a cluster of crystals, a pronounced wrinkle - is called edging. "Edge" applies not only to the shoes running edge, but also to the edge that forms the top of the hold. You usually edge when the hold is sharp. The edge of the shoe is placed directly on the best part of the hold and the sole finds purchase by conforming and biting onto the edge once the shoe has been weighted. On vertical and overhanging terrain, edging allows the climber to get their lower body closer to the wall to distribute more weight onto the feet, reducing the strain on the arms. Edging is the most basic method of standing on holds, but it takes practice to become proficient.
We generally edge with the inside of the shoe, near the outside of the big toe. Both your foot and most modern shoes are designed to stand most easily on this section of the shoe. Also, when edging on dimed sized holds it is necessary to feel just how good/bad the shoe is gripping and the area around he big toe is most sensitive and is best suited for this. However, it is not unheard of for people to prefer edging off the ball of the foot, which requires less foot strength; and many times it is necessary to edge with the shoe pointing straight on the hold called "toeing-in". Toeing -in requires strong toes and is especially useful in the small pockets so common on limestone and volcanic crags. While we normally climb directly facing the rock, many times you will find it necessary to step one leg inside the other, particularly when traversing. Knowing how to edge with the outside of the shoe is essential here.
Back-stepping, a technique particular to steep rock, also makes use of the outside edge to increase your reach and force your hips in. Outside edging is almost done just back from the origin of the small toes. The foots bone structure makes that section of the foot fairly rigid as opposed to the rest of the outside part of the foot, which is fleshy and flexible and which gives the shoe edge every reason to "butter off" the hold.
Edging is an exercise in precision. Many edges are so small they can't be seen until you're at them. Careful placement of the foot is essential, and once the shoe is weighted it is likewise essential not to change the attitude of the shoe lest you pop off. In short, knowing how to keep your foot perfectly still on the edge while the rest of your body carries on. This is especially key when extending the leg, or "pressing out" the hold.
Contary to common sense, a razor sharp shoe edge is NOT ideal for standing on small holds. Because rubber stretches once weighted, a slightly rounded edge is less likely to "buttress" or fold of the smaller holds. Most shoes feature a sole that is beveled back underfoot, resulting in more stable edging.
REST STEP
Often on sustained face climbs your calves will become exceptionally fatiqued, which can lead to "sewing machine leg", where the tired limb will shake out of control. To rest your calves try the REST STEP: find a good edge and stand on the heel of the foot, with the leg straight, the center of gravity directly over the heel, and most of your weight on that foot. If applicable, use the rest step whenever you have to stop to place protection or when you need a rest. Imaginative resting is one of the keys to efficient climbing.
TRICKS AND TECHNIQUES
In general terms, the primary steps to good footwork are:
1) Scan the rock to find the best possible foothold. Don't move your foot until you know exactly where you're going to put it. When possible, place your feet directly beneath your hands to minimize the strain on the upper body.
2) Place the foot on the best part of the hold. Concentrate in the hold as you bring your foot to it.
3) Fluidly transfer weight to the new foot placement.
4) Hold the foot still as you move/stand on it. Use ankle as a hinge to avoid upper body movement. Focus on keeping the foot still and maintaining fluid movement and weight transference between holds.
5) Don't rush! You've got to settle in and relax. The frantic climber is the first to make a mistake. Maintaining balance often means using smaller steps and smaller holds rather than awkward, off-balanced strides between larger holds. The aim is to climb smoothly, gracefully and to use as little energy as possible. A good rule is to pause whenever you reach a good hold, use the rest step and compose yourself.
6) If you were to watch an experienced climber, you'll quickly see that at least half the time he is looking down at his feet, scanning for holds, and placing them with keen eyes.
7) Strive to meet goals of control, rather than success at all cost.
HEEL HOOKING
Heel hooking is the attempt to sue the foot as a hand and is rarely used on climbs less than vertical. Basically, you hook the heel of your shoe over or behind a flake, knob, corner or any feature that will accommodate such a move. Most often, the foot is actually kicked over the head and hooked over a shelf or ledge. You then pull with the foot, folding the chest in and up until you can reach the hooked hold. Though it is possible, even necessary to hook something other than the heel, try not to hook anything above the shoe's rand (the strip of rubber that circles the shoe above the sole). The rand is usually made from the same compound as the sole and grabs the rock well, whereas the leather upper is prone to shoot off even a jagged flake.
