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Climbing With Style

(the information in this section has been drawn from Dawson's physical education department)

Though we have discussed hands and feet seperately, the aim of all climbing is to choreogragh the different moves into fluid upward movement. To look closely at the different types of face climbing is the best way to understand the dynamics of this upward flow. Three basic ways exist for using your legs to propel your mass upward against gravity: The Static Step; The Spring Step; and The Frog Step

THE STATIC STEP

The static step is generally the most strenuous and therefor least efficient way to move. The static step involves statically pressing your weight up on one leg while simultaneously bringing your other foot to the next hold. On difficult slab and friction routes, where the weight transfers must be extremely smooth, the static step is almost always used.

THE SPRING STEP

The spring step takes advantage of dynamic movement to efficiently move the climber's weight. The technique really comes into its own on vertical to overhanging rock. At the moment just before bringing the foot up, "bounce" off that foot to dynamiclly propel your weight upward. The bounce may be subtle or exaggerated depending on the move, the climber's style and the relative security of the hold. Many times it's no more than a juke with the calf muscle. Depending on the terrain, this move should be used most of the time for efficient upward movement. If you watch experts use the spring step you'll notice that it gives them the appearance of being light on their feet. Lest you get the wrong idea, the spring step is rarely if ever in explosive movement, as though the climber were literally jumping off the foothold to slam dunk a basketball.

THE FROG STEP

The frog step entails bringing one foot up, then the other, while the torso staus at the same level. After the second foot comes up the climber is essentially in a crouched, or bullfrog position. At this point both legs can work together to push the weigth up.

SLAB CLIMBING

Slab climbing refers to smooth rock, "slabs", usually ranging from fifty to seventy degrees. Slab climbing requires the application of every face climbing technique: smearing, palming, edging and mantling ect.. . The ace slab climber is fluid and rarely stops, lest he interrupt the rhythm of ascent. The body is kept well away from the rock, eyes scanning the rock for usable features, stopping when the hold allows. Once a climber has chosen a hold, he should watch that hold until he gains purchase with her hand or foot. Because you can only watch one hold at a time, you only move one limb at a time. Keeping this in mind, you will naturally assume the "tripod" position; maintaining at least three points of contact with the rock while shifting your weight accordingly as you move each limb. Your feet will mostly be smearing on slabs. A series of small steps is generally most efficient for movement up a slab, but occasionally the footholds will be apart and you'll be forced to high step.

DYNAMIC CLIMBING

A dynamic move is another way to describe a lunge, where a climber vaults of a hold and is propelled to another. Dynamic moves range from six-inch slaps to all-out jumps, where a climber is completely clear of the rock, before quickly grasping holds above, at the apex of his leap. Properly performed, dynamics ("dynamos" or "mos") are climbing's most athletic expression, requiring perfect coordination, raw power and precise timing.

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