HISTORY
OF THE SHRINE OF
IMAM ALI B. MUSA AL-REZA (A.S)
The
History of Mashad
Mashad is the capital of Khorasan province in the North East of Iran, 892 km
away from Tehran. It is located at the altitude of 985 Meter occupying an area
of 204 sq. Km. and has a population of about 1.5 million. Mashad grew from a
small village called Sanabad, 24 km away from Tus. After the martyrdom of Imam
Ali ibn Musa Al-Ridha and his burial there in 203 AH, the place came to be known
as Mashad Al-Ridha. Astan-Qods-Razavi (the name given to the physical buildings
comprising the Haram) is one of the most beautiful and glorious religious places
in Iran. The best of Islamic art and architecture can be seen in the unique and
significant monuments where Islamic art and faith is embedded.
History of the construction of Astan-Qods-Razavi
Hamza ibne Qahtabah, the Abbasid army commander who had led the war against the
Ommayids was appointed by Mansur and Al-Mahdi, the Abbasid caliphs as the
Governor of Khorasan. He made a big garden between Noughan and Sanadan and
erected a palace which stood up to the beginning of the 4th century AH. Haroon,
who had come to Tus to suppress the Khorasan rebellion, became ill and resided
in the garden during his ailment. But he died in 193 H. And was buried inside
the palace. Upon his tomb a shrine was built.
In 203 AH, Imam Al-Ridha, peace be upon him, was poisoned by Mamoun, the son of
Haroon and Imam was buried alongside with Haroon. Since the martyrdom of Imam,
his holy shrine became a place of pilgrimage for the world's Shias and the city
spread so far as Noughan and Sanabad were annexed to it to become Mashad Al-Ridha,
shortened over time to Mashad.
The holy shrine was ruined by Saboktakin, a Ghaznavid king. But his son, Sultan
Mahmoud ordered the shrine to be repaired and expanded in 428 AH.
During
the invasion of Changis and his son, Tooly, the holy shrine was ruined again.
Sultan Mohamed Khoda-Banda, a Shiite king of Moghol dynasty, who reigned from
703 to 716 AH, had the holy shrine rebuilt. Since the time of Safavids, Afshars
and Qajars todate many of the Astane-Qods buildings have been expanded.
BASTS
(Places of Refuge)
Basts were places of refuge from the tyranny of dictators and provided the best
refuge for the people under persecution. In Astane-Qods-Razavi there exist two
large yards on each side of Sahne Enqelab (Revolution Court) namely Baste Payeen
Khiaban (Lower Bast) and Baste Bala Khiaban (Upper Bast). Today Basts are used
as two entrances to Imam Al-Ridha's Holy Shrine. In recent years two new Basts
have been built namely Baste Sheikh Bahai (between Gowharshad Mosque and Sahne
Jamburi Islami) and Baste Tabarsi (between the Islamic University and the new
building of Astane-Qods Library).
Sahne Enqelab
This is one of the most beautiful and glorious buildings of Astane Qods Razavi.
The four balconies in this court are Abbasi (North) , Tala (South), Naqqareh
Khaneh (East) upon which lies Naqqareh Khaneh, Sa'at (Clock) (West) upon which
is a big clock. These balconies which attest to the best of architecture are
more than three centuries old. There is a big rectangular window in this court
made of bronze and steel. Tala, the golden balcony was built by Amir Alishir
Navaiee, Sultan Bighara's wise vizier in 872 H. The northern Abbasi balcony was
constructed during Shah Abbas's reign in 1021 AH.
Minarets
The two golden minarets of Imam Ridha's shrine have been specially built. The
minarets are usually made on the two sides of the dome and near the dome. But
these two minarets have been built far from each other. One, close to the Dome,
upon Naderi balcony in the southern section of Sahne Enqelab and the other far
in the northern section of Sahne Enqelab on Abbasi balcony. Although lack of
symmetry can be clearly felt, it has been done on purpose so that when pilgrims
enter Haram from Imam Ridha Avenue they can see the minarets and the Dome in the
middle. The minaret which is close to the Dome was built by Shah Tahmasb Safavi
and has a height of 40.5 meters and a circumference of 13 meters. The other
minaret on Abbasi balcony was built at the time of Nader Shah.
Nqqareh Khaneh (Place of Kettle Drums)
In 860 H. When Baisonqor Shahrokh's son came to Mashad from Herat to Haram to
seek remedy from Imam Ridha kettledrums were beaten to announce his presence.
Since then this practice has been performed every day before sunrise and sunset
except mourning period. The place where kettledrums are performed is on the
eastern balcony of Sahne Enqelab.
Saqqa Khaneh (Public Drinking Place)
There is a public drinking place called hawze Ismail Talai in the middle of
Sahne Enqelab with a gilded inscription belonging to the time of Nader Shah
Afshar's reign. That is why it is called Naderi drinking place. The marble pool
was brought from Her on Nader Shah's orders. The golden bricks with which the
inscription has been written was made by Ismail, an artist whose name the
drinking place bears. It was rebuilt in 1347 H.
Sa'at (the Clock)
There is a big clock on the western balcony of Sahne Enqelab. It dates back to
the period of Mozaffar-al-Din Shah's period.
Sahne Jamhuri Islami (Islamic Republic Court)
This Sahn which is 10,000 square meters in size was built in recent years. It
has two minarets at the back of the northern and Southern gates. Each minaret is
30 meters high. This Sahn provides one approach from Ravaq of Dar-al-Valayeh to
the holy Shrine of Imam. The building situated on the eastern part of this Sahn
is called Dar-al-Rahmeh.
Sahn Qods
This Sahn is recently built and 2500 Sq. Meters in size is situated between
Sahne Imam Khomeini and Baste Shaykh Bahai. On the ground floor there are 28
chambers each six meters high and one veranda called Qebleh which is 50 Sq
Meters in size. At the centre of this Sahn is a newly built public drinking
place.
Sahne Imam Khomeini
This Sahn is located at the left side of the Holy Shrine of Imam Ridha [a] and
faces Imam Ridha Avenue. Its area is more than 8300 sq Meters. Shaykh Bahai's
tomb is located between this Sahn and Sahne Azadi.
Sahne Azadi
This Sahn is located east of the Holy Shrine and dates back to the time of Fath-Ali
Shah Qajar. It is about 85 meters long and 54 meters wide. It has four verandas,
the most famous of which is called Eivan Tala (golden Veranda) that is adjacent
to the am. This veranda was gilded at the time of Nasir-al-Din Shah Qajar.
Gowharshad Mosque
This mosque is one of the most reputed in Iran and is situated adjecent to the
Holy Shrine of Imam Ridha. It was built in 821 AH. under the orders of
Gowharshad Khatun, Shahrokh Mirza's wife. Its area is 9410 Sq Meters and
includes a courtyard, four porches and seven large prayer halls. Two beautiful
minarets, each 40 meters high, are located on both sides of Maqsureh Porch.
There is an inscription on the left on the margin of the porch written by
Baisonqor, one of the best calligraphists of the time. The Sahib-al Zaman Pulpit
is in Maqsureh porch. It was built in 1243 H with walnut wood and without using
any iron or nail. This mosque has a public libray with 34,650 volumes.
Imam Ridha [a]'s Tomb
It is located beneath the Golden Dome (The Golden Dome is the most prominent
symbol of the city of Mashad with an altitude of 31.20 meters) and surrounded by
different porches each bearing a separate name. The skilled artists have done
their best in the creation of this place. It is square in shape and some 135 sq.
meters have been added to its area after extension works. The walls are covered
by marble up to twenty centimeters and the next ninety two centimeters are
covered by expensive tiles known as Sultan Sanjari tiles. Quranic verses and
Ahadiths of the Ahlul Bait [a] have been carved on these tiles. The important
inscription written round the walls is eighty centimeters wide and written by
Ali Ridha Abbasi, the famous calligraphist of the Safavid period and bears Surah
Jumah of the Holy Quran.
Dar-al Hoffaz (the place of the Reciters)
This porch is located south of the Holy Shrine and northeast of the Gowharshad
mosque. It was built under the orders of Gowharshad khatoon. Yhe pilgrims pray
here seeking permission to enter the Holy Shrine. Dar-al-Hoffaz is connected to
Haram through a doorway. It has been built for the Quran reciters. Abbas Mirza,
Fath-Ali Shah's vicegerent is buried in this porch.
Towhid Khaneh (place of Divine Unity)
It is located north of the Holy Shrine and south of Sahne Enqelab. This porch is
used for ladies prayers.
Dar-al-Siyadah
Located in the western part of the Haram, this porch was built under the prders
of Gowharshad Khatoon. There is a silver window in its northeastern part from
where Imam Ridha [a]'s Tomb can be seen.
Bala-Sar Mosque
There is a small mosque attached to the west part of the Haram. It is called
Bala Sar (above the head) because pilgrims enter this mosque from the west side
of Imam Ridha [a]' s burial chamber which is Bala-Sar of Imam. It is one of the
oldest mosques in Mashad and dates back to the time of Sultan Mahmood Ghaznavi.
Dar-al Rahmah Porch
This porch has an area of 365 sq. meters and is situated in the eastern part of
Sahne Jamhuri e Islami. It has been decorated with gilding, plastor works,
mirrors and fret work and was inaugurated in 1371 AH.
The other porches are Dar-al-Ekhlas, Dar-al-Shukr, Dar-al-Salaam and Dar-al-Zekr.
Allahverdikhan Dome
It is an octagonal dome built on Allahverdikhan's tomb. He was one of Shah
Abbas's generals. It is located in northeast of Haram and decorated with colored
tiles and beautiful drawings. It is one of the most valuable artistic works
inside Haram.
Hatam Khani Dome
This dome is located east of Haram. One of Shah Abbas's ministers called Hatam
Beik Ordoobadi built it in 1010 AH.
The Golden Dome
The Golden Dome on top of Imam Ridha [a]'s tomb is the most prominent symbol of
Mashad and has a height of 31.20 meters. A large inscription has been written
round the Dome by Ali Ridha Abbasi.
Museum of Astaane Quds
The Astaane Quds museum is one of the richest and most exquisite museums of
Iran. The building is located in the eastern quarter of Sahne Imam Khomeini and
close to Haram square. Some of its objects date back to the 6th century AH. The
collection of carpets, rugs and golden covers for the Tomb are all unique and
date back to the 11 and 13th centuries. Some inscriptions written by Ali Ridha
Abbasi are among the valuable objects. Among the unique works of art in the
museum is Imam's first tombstone, the inscription of which was carved in kufi
relief script belonging to 516 H. There are also samples of relief tilework
known as Sanjari glazed tile belonging to the 6th century H. and a big stone
water pool made of a piece of blackstone decorated with the most beautiful
arabesques.
Museum of The Quran
This museum is located in the vicinity of the Astaane Quds museum. It contains
precious manuscripts of the Glorious Quran attributed to the Holy Imams and some
gilded manuscripts. It was opened in 1364 H. The oldest manuscript attributed to
the Holy Imams is in kufi script on deer skin belonging to the First century AH.
Museum of Stamps
The biggest stamp museum in Iran and was opened by Astaane Quds in 1368 AH. Some
50000 stamps from Iran and 18 foreign countries from Qajar period to the present
time are on display in this museum. Astaane Quds Library: This library is
located in the eastern part of Sahne Imam Khomeini and was established in 681 H.
It has a unique treasure of manuscripts. It contains, according to last count
done in 1368 AH., 257078 volumes of which 28218 are manuscripts and 724
photographic copies and the materials are in 36 different languages. The
archives of this library are considered a treasure of documents.
Astane Quds Mehmansara
This inn is located in Baste-e Sofla and every overseas pilgrim (zair) of Imam
Ridha [a] has a right to one free meal as guest of Imam. Meals are served
everyday.
Sheikh Bahaiee
The Tomb of Baha-o-din Mohamed Ameli, known as Sheikh Bahaiee, is located
between Sahn-e-Imam and Sahn-e-Azadi in the Haram Astane Quds. Sheikh Bahaiee
was born in Baalbak in 953 H. and came to Iran with his father when he was 7
years old. His genealogy dates back to Hareth Hamadani, the famous disciple of
Imam Ali [a]. He had a great influence on Shah Abbas King of Iran and Iranian
politics and culture and has left behind many scientific works.
Sheikh Hurr Ameli
His tomb is in Sahn-e-Enqelab in the Haram-Astaane Quds. He is one of the famous
Shiite theologians and author of Wasa'el al-Shia.
May Allah bless us all with the Ziyarat of Imam Reza [a.s] more and more often.
I trust the above narrative will be of benefit to the pilgrims (zawwar) of Imam
Reza [a.s].
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Updated
on April 24, 2005