In Ireland, goblins and fairies are said to roam the countryside on Halloween night. To keep the creatures satisfied, tradition calls for a plate of doughnuts to be left out for them to nibble.
Doughnuts and other little fried breads have such a long history because they are prepared without an oven. Doughnuts are especially prevalent in such European countries as Germany and Switzerland, showing up at fall holidays and festivals, where they are purchased from vendors to be eaten out of hand.
The doughnut that we now consume in America is the descendant of the olykoe, a doughnut ball that came to New England with the first Dutch settlers. As the story goes, the doughnut with the hole was invented in colonial Maine as a way of helping the pastry cook more evenly.
Even today, it is not unusual to give out doughnuts to trick-or-treaters (at least to those who know and trust you) as well as having a nice selection for the pre- or post-trick-or-treat festivities. And the doughnut on a string game -- where players must eat the dangling pastry without using their hands -- is a familiar sight at Halloween parties.
My mother always made doughnuts as a special treat, usually on weekends, and when in the 1950s Spry solid vegetable shortening printed a recipe for orange doughnuts on the can label, she made drop doughnuts on the stove-top in a deep kettle. We all, my father included as well as us children, hung around waiting for those doughnuts to cook. When they cooled, we tossed them into a paper bag filled with powdered sugar and rolled around to coat. If you toss them in while warm, the sugar gets gummy.
Many folks have treasured family doughnut recipes, which delight the modern palate just as they did those of generations ago. If you don't have your own recipe, here's some of our favorites. It's cake-doughnut style, and the mashed potatoes make the doughnuts moist.
You can get a small Presto Fry Daddy Junior (about $20) or go for a quasi-professional Euro-Pro digital 5-liter capacity model, $89 from Chef's Catalog, www.chefscatalog.com or (800) 338-3232. Donut fryers are for sale but note they require 230 volt and over 4000 watts. There is often 230 volt service in kitchens for stoves and ovens but note that a different plug is required for 230 volt service for safety reasons. An electrician can install one for you if you do not have one already. Four Kilowatts is a lot of power especially for older houses but even houses with 15 KW service may have trouble when the donut fryer is on if other big appliances such at TVs are also on.
Though few people make them at home these days, doughnuts have surged in popularity as a dessert at fancy restaurants. Doughnuts like these would never show up in a doughnut shop. Perhaps the most famous in this creative genre is Thomas Keller's signature dessert, ``coffee and doughnuts.'' Miniature brioche-like yeasted cake doughnuts rolled in cinnamon sugar are perched beside a cup-and-saucer presentation of frozen cappuccino semifreddo topped with steaming milk foam.
In Las Vegas miniature potato doughnuts are part of the daily petits fours plate. They also make seasonal fruit-stuffed beignets and serve them with an ice-wine sabayon or ice cream. It is a sensational, really special dessert.
Serve your Halloween doughnuts with hot apple cider for the kids and coffee for the adults. I guarantee that they will be well received and disappear quickly.
You should use a good quality, fresh vegetable oil, canola oil or olive oil for frying (solid vegetable shortening or lard can be used if you like). As you fry, remove any charred crumbs with a skimmer. If you wish to reuse oil, cool it and strain through a paper towel-lined strainer or coffee filter. To dispose of used oil, let it cool, then pour it back into the bottle. Cap the bottle and discard.
To prevent accidents, fill a deep, heavy pan no more than one-third full of oil because the oil bubbles up when you add the doughnuts. Keep the lid close by to cover in case of fire. Never leave the pan unattended while frying. Electric deep fryers are inexpensive and safe; this is my preferred tool for making doughnuts.
For best results, use a frying or candy thermometer or an electric fryer with a built-in thermostat. Without a thermometer, test by dropping a cube of bread into the oil; it will brown in 40 seconds at 370 degrees. If the oil is too hot, the outside of your doughnuts will be hard; if too cool, doughnuts will sink to the bottom, absorb the oil and turn out greasy. The ideal temperature for the dough is 70 to 80 degrees; if your dough is too cold, it will reduce the temperature of the oil.
Don't crowd the oil. Fry only a few pieces at a time. Some people wear an oven mitt on their working hand to prevent burns from splatters.
Turn the doughnuts frequently with a metal skimmer or slotted spoon so they cook and brown evenly. Remember to test the oil temperature in between batches.
Remove doughnuts with a fry basket or skimmer, slotted spoon or long-handled tongs. Drain on multiple layers of paper towels or brown paper bags. Eat as soon as possible. Doughnuts don't keep and are not good frozen.
Makes 18-22 doughnuts and equal number of holes
Vegetable oil, for deep frying
1 cup freshly mashed potatoes made from 8 ounces peeled russet potatoes; mashed potatoes should be free of lumps and at room temperature
3 1/2 to 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger or cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 large eggs
3 tablespoons butter, diced, at room temperature
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or vanilla powder
In a deep, heavy 4-quart Dutch oven, wok, electric fry pan, or portable electric deep-fat fryer, pour the vegetable oil to a depth of 3 inches. Set the thermostat or heat to 365 to 375 degrees. If not using an electric fryer, check the temperature with a deep fat or candy thermometer.
Place mashed potatoes into work bowl of heavy-duty electric mixer. Add 3 cups flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, baking soda, ginger and nutmeg. Add eggs, butter pieces, milk, and vanilla on medium speed and beat 30 seconds. Add remaining cup of flour slowly until dough holds together. It will be very soft and sticky.
Scrape dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead a few times, as for biscuit dough, just until it holds together. With rolling pin, quickly roll out dough to a thickness of 1/2 inch (doughnuts will puff during frying). Do not add too much flour or over-handle dough or doughnuts will be tough. Cut out doughnuts with a flour-dipped 3-inch doughnut cutter with a 1 1/2-inch inner ring (or use two smooth-edged biscuit cutters, one large and one small, to make the hole). Reroll trimmings and cut out more doughnuts, setting holes aside to cook as well.
Place a clean brown paper bag or a few layers of paper towels on a baking sheet to the side of the stove for draining doughnuts. Carefully test oil by dropping in a leftover scrap of dough; when oil is hot enough, dough will puff immediately. Fry doughnuts in batches: Carefully slide 2 or 3 pieces of dough off a metal pancake turner into the hot oil or place about 3 doughnuts in fry basket. It is important not to crowd them. Turn a few times with a large slotted spoon when the doughnut rises to the surface; cook until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes per side (the holes take about 1 minute). Remove with slotted spoon to drain and cool to room temperature.
Glazes 1 batch of doughnuts
1 1/2 ounces unsweetened or bittersweet chocolate
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups sifted powdered sugar
Pinch of powdered espresso powder or instant coffee granules
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon boiling water
In top of double boiler, melt chocolate and butter over simmering water.
In small bowl, place powdered sugar and coffee. Pour in melted chocolate and vanilla; beat well with whisk until smooth. Adjust consistency of glaze with boiling water, a few drops at a time, keeping glaze spreadable. Using small metal spatula, spread glaze on top of each doughnut, letting some run down sides. Let stand until cool and glaze hardens.
These donuts are low in fat as they are baked in the oven instead of deep fried. Good for people on low-colesterol, low fat diets.
Ingredients:
Approximately 3 tbsp. sugar for preparing pans
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup apple butter
1/3 cup pure maple syrup
1/3 cup apple cider
1/3 cup nonfat plain yogurt
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
SPECIAL PAN:
You will need a mini bundt baking pan with 6 or 12 cavities or a 6 or 12 cavity donut baking pan.
Mini donut pans (nonstick with 12 donut cavities) can be purchased at http://www.Cooking.com.
A nonstick 6 cavity donut pan may be purchased at http://www.sugarcraft.com
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 C). Coat molds of a mini-Bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray or oil. Sprinkle with sugar, shaking out excess. In a mixing bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon; set aside.
In another bowl, whisk together egg, brown sugar, apple butter, maple syrup, cider, yogurt and oil. Add dry ingredients and stir just until moistened.
Divide half the batter among the prepared molds, spooning about 2 generous tbsp. of batter into each mold.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the tops spring back when touched lightly. Loosen edges and turn the cakes out onto a rack to cool. Clean the mini-bundt pan, then re-coat it with oil and sugar. Repeat with remaining batter.
Makes 12-24 donuts, depending on the size pan you are using.
Ingredients:
1 1/4 c. confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1/4 - 1/3 c. pure maple syrup
Instructions:
In a bowl, combine confectioners' sugar and vanilla. Gradually whisk in enough maple syrup to make a coating consistency.
Dip the shaped side (underside) of the "doughnuts" in the glaze to coat. Then set them,glazed-side up on a rack over wax paper for a few miutes until the glaze has set. Makes 1 dozen.
Ingredients:
1 package active dry yeast
1/4 cup warm water
3/4 cup warm milk
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, well beaten
1/2 cup vegetable shortening, melted
vegetable oil (for deep frying)
Instructions:
Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and allow to proof for 5 minutes.
Add the milk, half the flour, and half the sugar.
Beat until smooth, cover and let rise for 30 minutes.
Sift together the remaining flour, sugar, salt, and nutmeg.
In a separate bowl, mix together the eggs and shortening.
Combine the yeast mixture, the sifted ingredients, and the wet ingredients in a large bowl.
Mix until a soft dough forms.
Knead on a floured surface for 5 minutes.
Cover and let rise for 1 hour.
Roll the dough out on a floured surface to a thickness of 1 inch (2. 5 cm).
Cut with a floured donut cutter.
Cover and let rise for 1 hour.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet and fry the donuts for 2 to 3 minutes, turning when golden brown.
Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
Ingredients:
1 stick butter, (no substitution)
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1 pound confectionery sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla
1-1/8 teaspoons ground ginger
1 tablespoon grated orange peel
2 tablespoons 2% milk, up to 3
Instructions:
Bring butter and cream cheese to room temperature. Grate peel from fresh orange Set aside. Mix well at high speed with mixer butter and cream cheese. Add in sifted confectionery sugar. Add orange peel, vanilla, and ginger. Continue to mix at high speed until smooth. Add in milk just until spreadable consistency.
Make a clear frosting of glazed sugar or a white frosting and add food coloring to get Tan, Yellow and Burgundy for the colors of leaves or Orange or Black for Halloween.
How about those Beignets? N' Awlyans donut with the hole still inside. Just try some for, you know, they do Voo Doo down there and it's not just that Voo Doo that you do so well!
Serves 8 with 3 small beignets per person. Boo & Voo Doo-dee 2 U!
For the apples:
2 large apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored and quartered
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
For the beignet dough:
3/4 cup warm water
1/4 cup whole milk
1 scant tablespoon (1 envelope) active dry yeast
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 cup sugar
1 large egg
3 to 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)
1/4 teaspoon salt
Diced apples
Canola oil, for deep frying
For cinnamon sugar:
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon, or to taste
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place apple wedges in shallow baking dish. Sprinkle apples with brown sugar, water, cinnamon and nutmeg. Dot with 2 tablespoons butter. Cover with foil and bake 25 minutes, until apples are soft when poked with a knife. Cool apples completely and dice into 1/4-inch chunks. Set aside.
Combine warm water, milk and yeast in mixing bowl, preferably one from a standing mixer. Add room temperature butter, sugar and egg; beat on low speed to combine. Add 1 cup flour, cardamom and salt; mix 2 to 3 minutes to make a soft dough, adding rest of flour in 1/2 cup increments. On low speed, add diced apples and mix 2 minutes until apples are well incorporated. Place dough into buttered plastic bucket and allow to rise 1 1/2 hours; dough will be sticky. Deflate dough and refrigerate 2 hours for easier handling.
In deep, heavy 4-quart Dutch oven, wok, electric fry pan or electric deep-fat fryer, pour canola oil to depth of 3 inches. Heat to 350 degrees. If not using an electric fryer, check temperature with a deep fat or candy thermometer.
Place a few layers of paper towels on baking sheet to side of stove for draining doughnuts.
To prepare cinnamon sugar, place 1/2 cup granulated sugar and 1 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon in food processor. Process 15 seconds to pulverize sugar. (Alternately, use superfine sugar and combine with cinnamon.) Pour cinnamon-sugar into a shallow bowl and set aside.
Remove dough from refrigerator and turn out onto floured work surface; cover and let rest 10 minutes. Roll into rough rectangle about 1/2 inch thick. Cut out beignets with a 1 1/2-inch round cookie cutter (about 24 pieces). If frying right away, cover and let rest 20 minutes, until puffy. At Arcadia, beignets are frozen up to 3 days, then defrosted in refrigerator.
Fry beignets in batches. Carefully slide no more than 6 pieces of dough off a metal pancake turner into hot oil or place in fry basket. Do not crowd them. Fry until golden brown and drain on paper towels, about 1 to 2 minutes, turning once. Remove with slotted spoon to drain a few minutes, then roll in cinnamon sugar and serve as quickly as possible. They are still good if made a bit ahead, although the exterior softens somewhat; they stay warm about 30 minutes.
Want some chickory dickory dock in that coffee?