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Keeping the Dust Down
 

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Introduction:
(
No original ideas here -
This is the implementation of an idea /article published in an issue of RC Modeler in late 2003.)
 

Outside view - the exhaust end
(Click the image to enlarge)

The idea was to reduce the balsa dust, dog hair, and other junk in the air... the stuff that gets into your nose, under the UltraCote, and generally clouds the air in the shop - especially in winter when all the windows are closed.

It's made from an old oscillating fan, some scrap lumber and a 1/2 sheet or so of 1/4" ply. None of the dimensions are critical. I decided on 16x 20 filters because they were available, and a 12" fan cause that's what I had. The cabinet (??) is 18-20" tall, just because.

It's supposed to have wheels / casters so it's easier to move between work areas... but I put them in a Very Safe Place... when I find them in the Spring Thaw, I'll install them.

It's a one-night project to build, and is a GREAT addition to the shop!


Using the fan


The short answer is that it's on whenever I'm in the shop now!
- The three-speed control from the fan is a great feature. It's nearly silent on '1', and the louder '3' setting is acceptable for sanding. sawing, grinding cowls, etc - and '2' is right for moderately messy work
-- Right after it was completed (a one-evening project, btw) I turned it on medium and left the shop for an hour or so. When I returned the air *seemed* cleaner, and there was noticeable dust and stuff on the filter. 

I find that leaving it running on low while I'm in the shop doing general stuff keeps the air nice and clean.
When sanding, I turn it on high and move it under the work piece. I don't feel perceptible wind from it, but the could of balsa dust generally moves toward the filter. Nice.

I'll also leave it on for awhile after I leave the shop after finishing dusty work in order to clean the air a bit.


I did find when doing the latest Monokote job that I had less problems with dust and other foreign matter under the covering than I've ever had.


The original RCM article described the author's adding an activated charcoal filter to his --  he says he can spray paint in his shop now with virtually no odor problems. Might be the next step! (though the usual warnings about VOCs, toxic dust, carcinogens, other nasty paint components etc apply. You're on your own here if you try this...)


A note on filters -  

I'm using fine-grain filters in it, "Dirt Demon" brand, with a 'MERV' rating of 6 - apparently that means that it will trap tiny little particles, and that it's 40% more effective than the 'usual' fiberglass ones. They cost about a buck apiece and seem to last thru a few sanding jobs each (I know - how big is a 'sanding job'...?) Your mileage may vary.

 

1. Basics

Overall view of the Dust Catcher
(Click the image to enlarge)

I designed it around a standard size 16x20 furnace filter readily available at Home Depot - spent all of about an hour sketching it out, then headed for the lumber department-obviously  none of the wood sizes are critical.. . 

This is an overall. view of the beast -plywood box, reinforced w/ 1x2 left over from basement wing racks and other projects.

I got lazy when I assembled it and stapled it together, then followed with screws and a little aliphatic glue - seems plenty strong enough to hold... air... !

 

2. The inside-

Inside overall view
(Click the image to enlarge)

The fan motor, blade, and control are from an old oscillating one that had blown a fuse a long time ago, so away went the plastic bits, and shroud... There were enough mounting holes on the front of the motor case to screw it to the 1x1 aluminum angle (which also makes great servo mounts -- thanks, Dave! ),

The angle mounts to slotted sections of 2x4 with sheet metal screws. Again, plenty strong enough to keep things where they belong.

The metal exhaust is aluminum flashing material from Home Depot - dunno if it's really necessary, but I figured a ducted fan is always more efficient than a non-ducted one, so there it is. Someday the duct tape will be replaced with real rivets or screws...

 

3. Fan mounting detail

Fan Mounting Detail
(Click the image to enlarge)

There were enough mounting holes on the front of the motor case to screw it to the 1x1 aluminum angle (which also makes great servo mounts -- thanks, Dave! ),

The motor mount bar mounts with screws to slotted sections of 2x4. (The horizontal arm of the angle goes through the slot) Again, plenty strong enough to keep things where they belong.

(The spindle looking thing at 2 o'clock on the motor is where it used to mount when it was an oscillating fan.

 

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