Taken from "The Railroad Herald's","Links and Pins" coloumn.
Mulgrave,july 13-This is another place where an Intercolonial car ferry is operated, there the trains put out to sea, both from the Nova Scotia shore, here, and from the Cape Breton shore at Point Tupper, near Port Hawkesbury. The other place is between Cape Tormentine, N.B. and Cape Borden, Prince Edward Island. Mulgrave is reached by what is known as the Eastern line of the I.C.R., branching off the Trunk road at Truro. The road known as the Eastern Extention, 81 miles between here and New Glasgow, was first opened up for traffic in the autumn of 1879, but the car ferry over 1 mile of water was not established till about 1884 on the completion of the railway from Point Tupper to Sydney, a distance of 91 miles, a little more now by reason of sluice looping to take in Sydney Mines. The first attempt at transferring cars and locomotives was by scows, carrying one car or locomotive of the small type then in use. The scows were taken across by a tugboat, passengers , mails and baggage were transferred in a steamer called the "Mulgrave". I cannot recall the coming of the "Scotia", but it was a red letter day in respect to travel between the mainland of Nova Scotia and the island of Cape Breton.
The "Scotia" at first used to carry 24 cars of the size then in use, but owing to the increase in the size of cars, but 18 can now be put on. There are now two boats . both called "Scotia", this in case one meets with an accident, and also to continue the service uninterruptedly when one or the other is away for repairs. The road from New Glasgow to here was built by a company that had subsidy from both the Provincial and Dominion Governments, and the most was made of those subsidies, they were made to go as far as posssible, and it is said that is why there are so many curves and grades on that road. Then too, in respect to curves it is largely a shore route, with its devious windings. Regarding grades the route is a climb from sea level to highest peak, and cutting down hills was avoided as much as possible in order to make subsidies go as far as possible in paying for the building of the road.
Again in regard to curves , there used to be a jocular saying, that in locating the route the engineers whenever they came to a big stone or a big stump manouvered around it. The peak of the route is at Gordon Summit on the Pictou Branch and the next highest that which skirts the North slope of Frasers Mountain, just back of New Glasgow, the sea level at this place, Mulgrave. The top of the grade out of Mulgrave going west is at a siding called Porcupine. This grade is the stiffest on the route. At it you first get a view of Cape Porcupine with its nose stretching out toward the Strait of Canso, the "Gut of Canso" as they used to call it in the olden days.
Coming out of Mulgrave a pusher is frequently, in fact several times a day used on this grade as far as Porcupine, six miles from Mulgrave going down. The locomotive is set to the "Britchen" brakes set, and the driver is ready at a moments notice to apply the emergency brakes. Right here i may quote what is said to be another bit of the humor of the late George Keys, in this case a bit grim. It is said to the effect that one day when an express train of which Conductor Keys was in charge gliding down Porcupine, a timid , elderly, lady passenger queried of him! "Conductor does this train stop at Mulgrave?" George is said to have replied, "I hope so,lady,if it does not the good Lord help us". Conductor keys knew if the train did not stop at Mulgrave, it would somewhere at the bottom of the Strait-under the water.
To the credit of all who have to do with that route of the government system no bad accident ever occurred on the Porcupine grade. Trains do not run directly from the main line in or out of Mulgrave station. Going in they continue the main line to Pirates Harbor,close by the water, and there back into the station and into the ferry. Going out it is the same process reversed, that is the trains back out from the station to Pirates Harbor and join the main line, it is somewhat on the principal of the "Y".
The station a brick structure, is at the foot of a bold bluff. The freight house is across the track near the water. On past both are the docks and the ferry boats, and skirting the shore for some distance, is a wharf from and to which steamers plying daily between Guysborough, Canso and St.Peters come and go, and along the north shore of Cape Breton tri-weekly. As a result there is a large freight and passenger and mail ? here, to and from shore ports up and down the strait. The distance from Mulgrave to Point Tupper on the Cape Breton side is about one mile, and under normal conditions the ferry boat navigates it in from fifteen to twenty minutes. The roundhouse is at Pirates Harbor, about a mile from the station.
This preliminary regarding the road is but leading in what i have set out mainly to write about, viz: the village of Mulgrave, and a large village it is. The population is 1,100, and it is continuing to grow, and apparently the time is not far distant when it will become an incorporated town. Before i mention a few details, bear with me in a brief pen picture of the place. Picture if you can a broad expance of water, and a high bluff on one side of it, and on top of that bluff a small town, and you have some idea of Mulgrave. The main street of the village extends along the shore for nearly two miles from Pirates Harbor to Hadley's Cove. It is right above the railway, but there are no buildings to obscure the view between it and the shore. The buildings are on the upper side and consist of dwellings, stores, and churches. The homes are chiefly those of railway men, and their families, for the population of Mulgrave 1,100 as i have stated-is 80% railway employees, and members of their families.
Above the main street there is another parallel street with buildings on both sides: not pretentious, but in all cases comfortable dwellings, and beside there are cross streets. The property owners take much pride in their grounds as a rule, that is grounds of the residences. There are well kept lawns, trees, shrubbery,plants and flowers, and almost invariably there is a kitchen garden. The impression one gets from the homes is that there are no poor people in Mulgrave, nor is there apparent riches. Comfortable, hardworking people , seize the situation up. That they are a people concerned in things spiritual is evidenced by four, yet not pretentious, church edifices, Presbyterian, Methodist, Roman Catholic and Anglican. They are an intelligent people because there is a fine school. The clergymen are: Rev.Mr.McLean,Presbyterian: Rev.Mr.Pentlaw,Methodist: Rev.Father Patton,Roman Catholic: Rev.Mr.Wood,Anglican.
I believe i may be wrong, that aside from the railway there is but one other extensive source of employment in Mulgrave viz: the big fish plant. I visited it in company with my good friend of many years Alex.Dunbar, locomotive engineer, of whom i shall write later on, as well as many other former comrades, of the rail whom i met. But Mr.Loggie, the General Manager, who showed us through it made me promise i would not write for publication in detail what he showed us, and explained to me, but i must say, the visit to the plant afforded me opportunity to go back home, and say it was 10 below zero at Mulgrave when i was there in july. That was the temperature in one of the big freezers i was in, and believe me , there were no flies there, and the few minutes i was in it, made me feel that i did not care if the ice cream man back home ever called at our house again. I wonder if one of those kind of freezers could not be used with beneficial effect in part of the equiptment of the white plague Sanatorium. Believe me the atmosphere in that front chamber. especially when it gets down to 20 below, would kill any kind of germ. But enough of that.
At Hadley's Cove, Mr.Dunbar pointed out to me what he termed a natural dry dock. It is a rock basin large enough to take in one or both of the"Scotias", or any other large craft, that is , if some dredging were done, and it would be quite easy to dredge it. Water flows into it from the strait at one end, and from a stream that comes tumbling down from Porcupine at the other . Mr.Dunbar claims that at moderate out tides, the"Scotia" and even the "Prince Edward Island" could be docked there for repairs, and other ships and crafts as well. Really the scheme looks feasible.
But speaking of ? industries. The place is admirably located for manufacturing in respect to power. there is a chain of lakes, all connected twelve miles in length, that is in total that could be tapped within two miles of the town. The ? advantages are both water , ? rail carriage opportunities. I ? mention these two things, because i doubt if 75 per cent of the residents of the place realize that they posses them, and i am quite sure the people of the outside world, know nothing of them, because i fear there is a disposition on the part of the vast majority of the Mulgrave people to hide their light under a bushel in respect to opportunities that is contained within their seaside home place, and in close proximity.
However , Mulgrave has another opportunity-that of becoming a great summer resort. The scenery, mountains, lake and sea, cannot be excelled. I make bold to say on this continent. From the main street of the village, from any of its streets, from any of its windows of its homes, and places of business, you may look southeast over the water of the Strait of Canso, to where it mingles with the blue water of the Gulf of St.Lawrence. To the west towers Porcupine, and to the east may be seen the fertile hills and valleys of Inverness county. It is just such scenery that has inspired great poets, and ? the minds of great writers rose.
Ever and anon there passes through the strait, crafts of all kinds, great and small. While i was there one morning, a great passenger steamer that plys between New York and Quebec, went through, and it was to me a fine sight, the big ship so close to the town that from its streets and from its buildings, you could plainly discern the people on the decks, and by the aid of a glass one could recognize faces. I have no doubt. if one were familiar with those of any of the persons aboard the ship. But i fear this letter is already too long, and i must stop writing of Mulgrave for the time being. But there will follow further notice of the place, particularily of the people i met while there, more particularily railway people, chiefly those i knew in ? syne. (to be continued)
PART II
The stores of Mulgrave are of the general kind, carrying in stock mostly groceries and provisions. I would judge there is an opening for a dry goods store, as for that sort of goods the people go to Antigonish-40 miles away-or send to Eaton's. I fancy the latter is mostly practiced. Dr.Brean and his brother are opening up a drug store filling a long standing want. There are two wholesale grocers, a book and stationary store, the latter conducted by Mrs.Wylde, formerly a Miss Smith of Truro. Mr.Gillis, formerly employed on the "Scotia", is the prosperous proprioter of a grocery and footwear establishment. He is a genial, whole-souled man, well liked by the people. Mr.Aitkens, one of the old-timers, conducts a general store, dealing in chiefly boots and shoes. He is having a new store building erected which he will occupy in the near future. John Mayfield is the builder and he is making a good job of it.
There are one or two clothing establishments. Cline McDonald, a former I.C.R., dining car conductor, is now owner and proprioter of the well known Sea Side hotel. The leading hotel of the place. It is well furnished, cozy and home like, in fact, well conducted in every way. The Sea View hotel is a new venture, and is well spoken of. Another well-known travellers home ,is that of the Misses Murray--indeed, it is a real home. Then too there is the Connaught. It is nicely situated and well spoken of. The barber shop of the place is conducted by "Tommy Webb", who already deals in all lines of tobacco and cigars. Though yet a young man "Tom" is a Mulgrave oldtimer. liked by all who know him.
Dr.Brean is the popular skilled and energetic physician of the place. His wife is the daughter of ex-railway man Alex. Robbins, locomotive engineer and Mrs. Robbins, Truro. I feel safe in saying he is a young man with a bright future. In respect to business, the doctor and "Tom" are side by side, and they are fast friends, yet their politics are far apart as the poles. The Doctor is a Grit leader, and"Tom" is a Tory leader, and at election time they go at it , but as soon as it is over,it is over. The Doctor can be generous because the Tories never win Guysborough county, or haven't in a quarter of a century-therefore, a Tory never feels bad the day after an election because he didn't expect to win. However they take their politics seriously in Guysborough county, but there is no compromise, they are Grit and Tory at heart. Most of them born that way, and that is all there is to it, and for sometime to come at least, that will be all there is to it. But why discuss politics. The weather is too warm to engage in that sort of thing, and what is politics today.
I am greatful to my friend, old in friendship, but not in years, Alex.Dunbar for kindly attention , and kindly acts during my visit to the half-way eastern railway town. Though born in Abercrombie,Pictou county, there is no place to him like his adopted home place-Mulgrave. He is just recovering from a bad accident. Several months ago he fell and severely injured the muscles of one of his shoulders; but he hopes to be back at the throttle again on the shunter in Mulgrave yard in the near future. Though practically a young man,"Alex.", has 46 years service to his credit, and it should be 49 for he entered the service in 1873 with the company that operated the Eastern extension as fireman, when but 16 years of age, and three years later, when 19, was promoted to driver,probably one of the youngest, if indeed not the youngest person ever promoted to that position in Eastern Canada. I am told he has a great record-that there is not a mark against him. If he can get the three years added to his time that are due him,he could retire next year at the 50 years service mark. His pretty and comfortable home is on the main street. He and his good wife have two children, both at home-a son and daughter-and both are in the railway service; in the express office.
In company with "Alex.", i visited another old friend, John McEachern, who resides in his handsome residence on the main street, near Pirate Harbor. John, who is slowly recovering from a very severe illness, retired from the locomotive service of the I.C.R. about 10 years ago. He began his railway career on the Eastern Extention in about 1877, and was firing when the train ran only between New Glasgow and Murphy's Mills, Antigonish. He is a good citizen. liked and respected by all who know him, and hosts of friends will be pleased to learn that he is recovering from a six months serious illness, and fervently hope that he will fully recover, and be long spared to further enjoy his well earned rest. A son is employed in the freight department at Mulgrave, and a daughter is a school teacher. His good wife is enjoying good health.
I also met with W.L."Billy" Irish, the veteran baggage master, who has run for years between Truro and the Strait."Billy" is crawling on towards the 50 year mark in the service, but he is still fit. He is one of the foremost citizens of the seaside railway town, and has been the competent, enthusiastic secretary of the school board for more than 20 years. He is a native of Antigonish and began his railway service when express trains carried operators on the Eastern Extention, and was ordered into the train service to operate instruments in case of emergency at stations, where there were not operators. He owns a pretty, comfortable residence on a street paralleling the main street.
Stead Black, another veteran, is the capable locomotive foreman at Pirate's harbor. He is a native of sackville,N.B., and began his career on the I.C.R., running out of Moncton, but was transferred to the Eastern Division staff more than 20 years ago. I say he is capable because the boys who should know, say he is. There are some pleasant rumors respecting "Stead "around Mulgrave just now, but never mind that, for the present , congratulations can come later on, and when they do, they will be hearty and plentiful.
Mulgrave is the home place of the "Nestor" conductor of the I.C.R., barring none, unless it be Conductor John Daly, of Dartmouth, who may be running neck and neck in service years. I refer to Conductor Nathan Pushie. If he is spared till next year, he will have rounded out 50 years in the service,-and look, he is by no means an old man. It is no exaggeration to say that he looks as young and is as active, as he was 25 years ago. No better railway trainman ever strung a cord, or punched a ticket, than Nathan Pushie, and there is no more popular, kindlier, hearted public servant than he. He is a native of Pictou county, and if i make a mistake not commenced his railway career running on coal trains between Stellarton and Pictou Landing in 1873. His home is a handsome residence on the main street of the town, and when he retires the wish of thousands of friends will be that he may be long spared to enjoy it. I did not see another retired veteran ex-conductor, James Holmes, but i hope to meet him on my next visit. I passed his residence on the second parallel street. The boys tell me that "Jim" is enjoying life, contented and happy, and i join with a multitude of old friends in wishing that he may long be spared to enjoy his rest.
But i must again close for i have reached the limit of my daily space in The Herald; but that does not mean i have finished writing of Mulgrave and its railway lads. I have thus far been writing of the place, and the old boys, but am going back to meet the younger ones, to get aquainted with them, to learn their names, and say a cheery word to them in this department of the hearld. Like the other old boys, i find the years are gathering in battalion about me, and in the natural course of events, i cannot for a great many more years go in and on among them, discuss with them their joys and sorrows, their successes and reverses; that i cannot much longer in the press try to make the public appreciate them as i appreciate them, but i shall stay with them as long as "Father Time" will permit, and as long as i am physically, and mentally fit, and believe me i have no intention of giving up yet for i am fit as a fiddle, never was more so, and the best i have i will give to the railways boys, for i never was anything else than a railroader at heart and in spirit. Had it not been for circumstances over which i had no control i too would now be thinking of retiring from the road with 16 years to my credit.
