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Egyptian Spiny Mice
- Cage size -- A cage or tank may be used, as long as it is sturdy and escape-proof. The mice are very good climbers, so all lids should be secure. A pair will do well in a ten-gallon tank.
- Bedding -- As with most rodents, cedar shavings should be avoided. Pine or aspen shavings are better choices, as are corn cob or one of the commercially available types of litter made specifically for small animals.
- Water Bottle -- An 8-ounce bottle will suffice for a small number of mice. Be sure it does not hang so low that it touches the bedding or it will leak.
- Food -- A base diet of hamster mix and rodent blocks should be offered. Spiny mice also require some source of meat in their diets. They enjoy crickets, mealworms, and other insects as well as high-quality cat food.
- Nest Box -- Spiny mice will appreciate some sort of sleeping quarters, even if it is just a cardboard box.
- Decorations and Toys -- Being excellent climbers, spiny mice will enjoy branches and decorations in their cage. They also enjoy wood for chewing, although they do not seem to be as destructive as other types of mouse. Be sure anything meant for climbing is secured within the cage, and all chew toys are safe.
- Exercise Wheel -- Be sure it is large enough to permit easy entrance and exit. Also, be sure it is secure in the cage and will not fall over.
- Food Dish -- anything that can't be easily chewed up or tipped over will work.
- Book on Egyptian Spiny Mice -- As always, you should own at least one and read as many as you can BEFORE you get your spiny mice!
- The Spiny Mice! -- Spiny mice will do best when kept with others of their own species. However, they are VERY prolific breeders. if you don't want babies, try to get the same sex, but be prepared in case of mistakes!
Hermit Crabs
- Cage size -- Tanks are preferable to cages, since they stay warmer and hold humidity better. A 5 1/2 gallon tank is spacious enough for one or two, but to fully appreciate their antics a ten gallon tank is recommended.
- Substrate -- Sand or aquarum gravel is usually used. Just be sure the substrate is easy to keep clean and resistant to mold.
- Water -- A shallow dish is needed so the crabs don't drown. A good idea is to purchase a shallow dish and place a songe in it. natural sponges are sold just for this purpose. This way, the crabs can drink without danger, and the tank doesn't dry out as quickly.
- Food -- Hermit crabs can and will eat almost anything. A commercial hermit crab food is available, as well as a prepared treat mix. Fruits, vegetables, breads, and other treats may be offered, but remove them before they begin to get moldy! The food can be offered in a shallow bowl.
- Extra shells -- Hermit crabs don't make their own shells. Therefore, as they grow, they need larger shells to move into. Keep a good supply on hand, as the crabs are very picky and sometimes fight over prize shells!
- Decorations -- Hermit crabs are surprisingly good climbers. They will enjoy pieces of driftwood, especially choya, to climb on and chew. Be sure other decorations are tip-proof and not easily broken.
- Heat source -- Useful if your house gets cold during the winter or at night. Under-tank heaters work well, as do mild heat lamps, but do not heat too strongly! Also, if heat is used, the tank will need to be misted to keep the humidity up.
- Spray bottle -- Used to mist the crabs with water. This keeps the humidity up and the crabs active and happy.
- Book on Hermit Crabs -- As always, you should own at least one and read as many as you can BEFORE you get your hermit crab!
- The Hermit Crab! -- Hermit crabs are very social, so feel free to purchase a few to live together. They come in different sizes and shell designs. Remember that the sizes of the crabs kept together should be approximately the same, and that they do eventually grow out of their shells, no matter how intricate and pretty the shell is! They only breed in the ocean, so the sex of the hermit crabs is not a consideration.