Meat's

BEEF STROGANOFF

This Russian dish has been around for several
centuries, but it wasn’t until the fifties that
it became all the rage in the United States
(despite our fear of Communism). Here is a
delicious rendition that pays tribute to the
"gourmet" chafing-dish dinner party. Now, as
then, beef stroganoff is a good thing to cook
in front of a small crowd.

• 1 2 1/2-pound piece beef tenderloin, well
  trimmed, meat cut into 2x1x1/2 inch strips
  
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
• 1 pound small button mushrooms, thickly sliced
• 1 cup canned beef broth
• 2 tablespoons Cognac
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche or whipping cream
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
• 12 ounces wide egg noodles
• 1 tablespoon paprika

Pat meat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over
high heat until very hot. Working in batches, add
meat in single layer and cook just until brown on
outside, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to
rimmed baking sheet.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in same skillet over
medium-high heat. Add chopped shallots and sauté
until tender, scraping up browned bits, about 2
minutes. Add button mushrooms. Sprinkle with
pepper and sauté until liquid evaporates, about
12 minutes. Add beef broth, then Cognac. Simmer
until liquid thickens and just coats mushrooms,
about 14 minutes. Stir in crème fraîche and Dijon
mustard. Add meat and any accumulated juices from
baking sheet. Simmer over medium-low heat until
meat is heated through but still medium-rare,
about 2 minutes. Stir in chopped dill. Season to
taste with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, cook noodles in large pot of boiling
salted water until tender, about 8 minutes.
Drain. Transfer to bowl. Add remaining 4
tablespoons butter and toss to coat. Season with
salt and pepper. Divide noodles among plates. Top
with beef and sauce. Sprinkle generously with
paprika.

Makes 4 servings.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH RED WINE GRAVY

Tiring of the ultra-refined nouvelle cuisine
that epitomized eighties dining, cooks
rediscovered the comforting humble cuts such as
short ribs and shanks. Orecchiette pasta or
mashed potatoes are great to catch the gravy.

• 1/4 cup all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon (generous) ground allspice
• 12 3- to 4-inch-long meaty short ribs
  (about 5 1/2 pounds), top membrane trimmed
  
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 3 large onions, chopped
• 3 large carrots, peeled, chopped
• 3 large celery stalks, chopped
• 4 large garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon dried thyme
• 2 teaspoons caraway seeds
• 8 ounces plum tomatoes, chopped
• 3 small bay leaves
• 3 cups canned beef broth
• 2 cups dry red wine

Chopped celery leaves
Stir flour and allspice in medium bowl to blend.
Sprinkle short ribs all over with salt and pepper.
Add 6 ribs to flour mixture and turn to coat. Heat
3 tablespoons oil in heavy large pot over medium-
high heat. Add floured ribs; sauté until brown,
turning occasionally, about 6 minutes. Transfer to
large bowl. Repeat flouring and browning with
remaining 6 ribs; reserve remaining flour-coating
mixture. Add 1 tablespoon oil to pot. Add onions,
carrots and celery stalks; sauté until vegetables
begin to brown and are very tender, scraping
bottom of pot often, about 30 minutes.
Add garlic, thyme and caraway seeds to pot; stir
1 minute. Mix in tomatoes and bay leaves. Return
ribs and accumulated juices to pot, arranging ribs
in single layer. Add broth and wine. Bring to boil.
Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer
until meat is almost tender, about 1 hour.
Uncover pot. Simmer ribs 30 minutes, occasionally
spooning fat from surface; reserve 2 tablespoons
fat. Stir reserved flour-coating mixture and
reserved 2 tablespoons fat in small bowl until
smooth; mix paste into sauce around ribs. Simmer
until meat is very tender and gravy thickens,
about 45 minutes longer. Season with salt and
pepper.
Transfer short ribs and gravy to large bowl.
Sprinkle with celery leaves.

Makes 6 servings.