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CDG/ORY/PAR (Paris)

  WillandXtopherBigSmile.jpg
Will and I on our way to CDG (going REALLY fast!), APR02

Concorde Exterior  
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Left: The AF Concorde parked at JFK (Flight AF001), APR02
Right: The sky looks mighty dark at 60,000 feet!


Auberge de la Reine Blanche, Maison du XVIIème siècle, 30 rue Saint-Louis en I'lle, 75004, 01.46.33.07.87.  Fun little gay-friendly (and unfortunately smoke-friendly as in most of Europe) restaurant which had delicious duck a l'orange last time I went there.

Marty , 20, av. des Gobelins (5ème), 1.43.31.39.51.  Found this at SmokeFreeWorld.com .  Nice upstairs dining area, good service, and tasty food (and we could taste the food since it wasn't smoky!).  I'll definitely return.

M. Grivet, 28 rue Monge, 01.43.25.16.09.  I had my first Paris-Bresthere.  When Peter told me what it was, I chuckled because I thought he had said hairy breast.  Anyway, it's a cream puff pastry filled with hazelnut cream.  Wonderful .  We also had the tarte au chocolat, which was also very good.

La Cuillère en bois - Creperie/Salon de thé, 108 rue des Entrepreneurs, 75015, 01.45.31.62.01. I really can't remember the details about the place except that Chris (CDG/BRU/STL/SFO) took me there; I imagine it was very reasonably-priced.

Restaurant Allard, 01.43.26.48.23, 41 rue Saint-André des Arts; entrée: 1 rue de l'éÉperon, 75006I can't remember this place, either; I just found a scrap of paper with the address info and don't recall that it should be on the LISTE DE MERDE at the end of the CDG section.

L'Huitre et Demie, 80, rue Mouffetard, 75005, 01.43.37.98.21.  Brigid in ORD thinks highly of this restaurant.

Cristallerie de Paris, 1 rue de Paradis, 75010, 01.47.70.20.54, F: 01.47.70.53.76.  Peter & I discovered this place after our friend Katherine sent us to this street in search of Baccarat.  We dealt with Claudine, who was quite pleasant!

La Tisanerie, 21 rue de Paradis, 75010, 01.47.70.22.80, F: 01.42.47.02.11.  LOTS of simple white dishes, including Limoges.

Maison du Miel, 24, Rue Vignon, 75009.  A variety of well-priced honeys!  They have a somewhat extensive sheet listing possible health benefits of each honey.  Almost as fun as honey-tasting in SFO.

Genevieve Lethu, 25 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 75014, 01.45.38.71.30.  Lovely kitchen supply shop.  Spans the range from reasonable to pricey.  Very nice help the day we went!

Les Catacombes, Place Denfert-Rochereau, 75014, 01.43.22.47.63.  A TRIP!  Around six million dead peoples' bones lined up down there.

LISTE DE MERDE:
Debauve & Gallais.  Wins the award for chilliest retail environment (in the personality sense of chilly).  AND Galler in BRU is better than their chocolates anyway. So there!

Outside CDG - Champagne Region

Domaine Morel Père & Fils, 011.33.3.25.29.10.88, 93 Rue Général-de-Gaulle Les Riceys (from Buxeuil follow D36 west 2 km to Polisy, then D452 south9km and follow signs to Morel).  I LOVED their Cuvee 2000 champagne!  It had been a year since I'd had a champagne/sparkling wine which had a similar taste; S. Anderson (in the Napa area) and Morel both do their first fermentation in oak, and I love both their products.  We were told there is one store in CDG which sells Morel's products: La Cave Valerie Namur on Avenue du Maine.

Philipponnat , 13 Rue du Pont, Mareuil-sur-Ay (few miles from the champagne village Ay on the Marne River), 011.33.3.26.52.60.43.  Advance reservations are a must at this small, exclusive champagne house.  Clos de Goisses is their best (and most expensive) product made from the best of their G rand Cru grapes.  We walked up several-hundred-year-old, hand-hewn limestone steps to visit the vineyards which are on very steep, south-facing slopes just across from the river and canal.  "Goisses" means anguish in the regional dialect, referring to the difficulty in cultivating and harvesting grapes on such steep slopes.

Restaurant Le Valentino, 11, Cour de la Rencontre, 10000 Troyes, 03.25.73.14.14.  The dinner (we ordered the seafood tasting menu) was a good value considering the quality of the meal.  The grilled scallops on a bay leaf stick was delicious; fruit soup for dessert was tasty; a lovely experience.  A short walk from the Relais St. Jean, where the front desk people were friendly (and cute).

Ferme des Boeufs , Isabelle et Bernard VERDONK, 51160 GERMAINE, 011.33.3.26.52.88.25, Fax: 011.33.3.26.52.84.08.  Open mid-APR to mid-OCT, lunch on weekends by reservation only.  Specializes in rustic Champagne region cuisine.  Reasonably-priced; nice, warm service; rural setting; and of course tasty food!

More later...

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