I bought this car in July of 2003 from a corvette shop down in Cocoa, Florida. It was interesting how I found it. I was driving down US 1 and saw a white ’75 sitting out by the road with a $4500 sign on it. Stopped and took it for a drive and it was a real piece of work! Doors rusty, really rattly and poor condition. When back from the test drive, told the owner it was too rough and wasn’t interested. He said to check out a car he had out back. Under a cover was this ’77 with no engine. The owner of the car was planning on installing a 383 blower motor and lost interest. The rear end was all new (built to handle the blower motor) and the deal included a 4 speed trans (later, I realized it was probably from that ’75 I drove since that car was converted to auto) and many parts in boxes. Better yet, the car itself looked to be in very good condition inside and out with no rust and no fiberglass damage. All for the same price he was asking for that ’75 so I bought it!
After quite an expensive and time consuming ordeal to get it to Ohio, I dug into the project. I’ve never worked on a Corvette before, but have wrenched on many Chevys so know my way around. I meant to get a book to help with the reassembly, but the more I worked on it, it became a challenge to assemble to whole car with no books, references or assembly manuals! After a year, the car is almost completed and the process is pictured below. Never did end up purchasing any assembly manuals either!
Update 9/22/06 - When I installed the trans last year, I needed a dipstick so grabbed one I had on the shelf. It turns out it was a TH350 one and leaks when filled to the proper level. So now the trans has to come back out to install a chrome TH400 stick I purchased online. While I’m at it, the engine is getting new aluminum heads, cam and carb as well. When that’s in the works, pics and info will be posted here!
The car in Florida shown right after purchase.
The car in Florida on the car hauler ready for the trip North.
Engine compartment before paint.
Engine compartment in primer.
Engine compartment after painting.
Engine compartment passenger side after painting.
Engine compartment drivers side after painting.
Shots of 4 bolt main 327. My own creation!
Engine installed and coming together.
Interior installed.
Rear of car before exhaust installed.
Rear of car after exhaust installed.
The almost completed car!
Due to the fact that the car didn’t have the original L-48 engine and was already set up for drag racing, I decided to put some power to it and keep the drag setup as well as improve on it. I also decided to install an auto trans since that’s what it came with and installing the unknown 4 speed that came with the car seemed like too much cutting and mods to the car for me. The car had the pedals for the 4 speed installed already and it looked to me like I would have to cut the firewall open (was done by previous owner to install them) to remove them so they are staying for now!
Here’s a list of some of the parts installed and modifications done to the car.
TH400 TRANSMISSION:
I can’t remember all the things done since I rebuilt this (quite an experience!) about 15 years ago, but it has heavy duty internal components and a shift kit. Also has a 2800 GER Stall and uses B&M Trick Shift fluid.
No auto shifter came with the car so I bought an original used one off ebay. It didn’t come with the brackets to connect to the TH400 so I bought a B&M shifter Bracket Kit from Summit (BMM-35498). The bracket didn’t fit the stock shift cable so modified the bracket with a hacksaw. Spread the bracket, installed on the cable, and crimped it back shut around cable. Mounted all and shifter worked, although won’t go into low. That worked for about a month until I decided to install a new Hurst Pistol Grip shifter. I made a page detailing the installation for those who want to put one in their C3 as well!
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:
Since the engine compartment wiring was in a box and pretty chopped up, I modified it to my liking. Due to problems with things lining up (see brackets problems below), I had to move the alternator to the passenger side. Installed a one wire starter since I like those for simplicity and ease of removal. Mounted a solenoid on the firewall that sends power to the starter and used the solenoid for the junction of positive battery power. The alternator, AC box relay wire, 16” cooling fan, MSD box, and interior power all connect here. Wrapped all engine electrical wires in red loom that I don’t much care for so may be switching back to black soon!
ENGINE INSTALLATION:
Engine went in pretty easily with car on jack stands, transmission installed first (suspended/adjusted with a floor jack). Used Energy Suspension motor mount and trans mount components for installation. Bolted all together with new hardware.
Once I got the car back on the ground I needed to get a water pump. Got one from the parts store, which turned out to be a short one and didn’t match the powder coated pulleys that came with the car. Figured the ‘vette uses a long one, so got one of those. Still no match to the pump pulley. After looking closer, the pulleys aren’t for small block! (not sure what they fit) Go get right pulleys, paint with aluminum high temp paint, bake for two hours in kitchen oven, then install on long water pump and balancer.
Since the 327 has no head bosses for alt installation, now things get complicated. Never got any mounting brackets for PS, Air Cond Compressor, or alternator so time to invent something! Had no mount bracket for power steering pump so went to junkyard and got a pump off late 60s Chevy pickup. When I went to install the power steering pump with the junkyard bracket, pulley hits the frame! So now no power steering until I can figure this one out! Thinking about using a $100 March bracket setup from Summit to make the thing fit. Since it’s not going to be working at present, I removed the frame connection point and zip tied the cylinder up out of the way. This will be very temporary since I don’t like manual steering! Power steering pump will also be needed for HydroBoost Brake System I plan to install eventually.
Now for the Alternator. I figure once I get the power steering pump mounted, it’s probably going to be in the way of a drivers side alternator so I decided to move the alternator to the passenger side. Was going to use one of those chrome brackets that bolts to the header and allows for easy installation but when I bought one, it didn’t look like it was going to let me mount the alternator far enough forward. Then decided to use a factory style alt bracket that mounts to pump plus fabbed up a steel one that bolts to engine with two water pump bolts. Then used a chrome arm with proper spacers and now it’s in the proper position and has a 48.5” belt installed. May have to move the alternator back one pulley if the power steering eventually needs the outer pulley.
Since I’m missing quite a few components to the factory air, it’s not going on now so don’t have to worry about that one.
COOLING SYSTEM:
Since I’m trying to do things right the first time, I decided to take the radiator to be tested before installation. The local shop (won’t mention the name) told me it was bad and needed re-cored for $300! Decided to temporarily use it anyway to see how things bolt up. Installed the radiator with a 16” 12v cooling fan I got off eBay. After bolting up, I couldn’t get the factory shroud in, so decided to temporarily leave it out. Connected with two new radiator hoses from Auto Zone (p/n 887018 (L-311) and 885103 (XL-060)). Once engine was running and up to temp, no leaks! Think now that the radiator shop was trying to screw me for sure!
Also worth noting is that the car gets up over 200 if you let idle too long. Since I originally installed the radiator with just has the electric fan and no shroud, I may have to add the factory shroud to avoid overheating in traffic.
SUSPENSION:
The rear suspension was included when I bought the car, so don’t really know exactly what I have or if it’s adjusted right. Some of the new components are an Ecklers rear spring (32780 on it), South Side Lift Bar (preloads the rear) and Vette Brakes & Products struts (believe that’s what they’re called) and offset control arms. The rear gear is a new 3.90 that was installed by the previous owner and never run.
If anyone can give me more info about the parts used in my rear suspension, I welcome the input!
The front suspension was basically stock with the sway bar and shocks missing. Bought a 1-1/4 bar off ebay and mounted it. Also added a pair of new Summit Racing adjustable drag shocks (SUM-G7601) and grade 8 bolts to retain them.
BRAKES:
The brake system was pretty much all new when I bought the car although was missing the booster and master cylinder. I found a new 1969 booster and master cylinder on ebay for $100 so bought those to use on this one. Bolted right up although had to make double flared lines to the proportioning valve. Once all assembled, bled the brakes and they work ok now. A bit weak in my opinion but may be due to the low vacuum of the cam or the rust that was on the rotors from setting. Once I drive it a bit, will check the rotors and bleed again to see if that helps them improve.
I did have to rebuild the rear calipers but was pretty easy using a rebuild kit from AutoZone.
WHEELS/TIRES:
For now, I’m using the stock Rally wheels and Kelly 225/70R15 tires that came with the car. Since the rear has long studs installed, center caps won’t fit so I pulled them from the front as well to make the car look better. I eventually plan to change to Center Line or Weld Rims as well as Mickey Thompson Sportsman tires.
INTERIOR:
The interior came with the car and was basically complete. I installed a pair of new Pioneer TS-P462 speakers so I wouldn’t have to take the works apart again later. Once I figured out what went where, reinstalled the dash. Hooked vacuum to headlight system and tested. When I tried the lights, I hear a vacuum hissing behind dash! Should have tested before assembly! Thought the switch was bad so took dash back apart. Before removing switch, decided to try reversing hoses on switch. That fixed it! 50/50 and I guess I got it wrong the first time! Once all together, everything seems to work ok.
When I bought the car, it had std shift pedals installed since they were going to install the included 4 speed. Since I didn’t want to install an unknown std transmission (not to mention cutting the rust free, new looking floor!), I put in the TH400 as mentioned above. Was going to remove the pedals and put in auto, but it appears you can’t remove them unless you cut open the fiberglass in engine compartment behind booster. Guess std pedals are staying!
No stereo is installed at this time but may in the future.
EXHAUST:
Bought a pair of slightly used Summit headers a while back so decided to use them. Cleaned them with Acetone then painted with 1200 degree paint. Baked in my kitchen oven at 400 degrees for two hours as recommended on the paint can. They came out looking nice but after installation, they ended up blistering. Wish I had bought ceramic now!
I decided to use stainless for exhaust pipes and components. Bought Summit polished 2-1/2” inlet/outlet mufflers (SUM-630425). Took those to a local muffler shop who has done a good job for me in the past. They were supposed to have ordered me stainless pipe but when I got there, turns out they couldn’t get it in. Since anxious to drive, told them to put it together using aluminized tube. Figure I can get mandrel bent stainless later and install. When I returned to pick up, I wasn’t too happy with the work. Looks like two different people made each pipe! Not symmetrical and the one muffler is even higher than the other. Pissed but needed to go so paid the bill and out of there. It really is true… if you want it done right, you need to do it yourself!
Anyway, the Summit mufflers sound good and will do the trick for now! Will get under there soon and loosen things up to see if I can straighten things out a bit.
I also used reusable Summit SS Band Clamps (WLK-33240) behind the trans crossmember. Those should allow me to remove the exhaust easily at the track.
If you have questions/comments about my project, e-mail me!
