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My friends at OSDparts.com ship to Australia and most other countries so check them first for your parts needs!

NOTE
This hobby has gotten out of hand so I’ve gotten away from the parts selling thing. I’ve been working with a friend to set up and handle all future new parts sales on www.OSDparts.com. They also have all the nos dealer closeout inventory I had listed here as well. I’m also getting out of the tech question answering business so I can spend more time helping those guys develop more new products to help the Sea Doo owner save some money. Therefore if you have a tech question please try the PWCToday.com board or other online sources while I'm off. Thanks!

WANTED
Parts Inventories from overstocked or closing Sea Doo shops. If you have parts or know of a Sea Doo dealer in your area that is closing, e-mail OSDparts.com with the details.

ALSO WANTED
Blown or wrecked Sea Doo watercraft in the Ohio vicinity. If you have one, e-mail me with description and price.

Have you had a bad experience with a dealer, repair shop, or engine rebuilder? If so, now you can post your experiences here. Hopefully this page will help others avoid the same fate!

Featured Sale Items

Complete Carb
Rebuild Kits
For Sea Doo

Is your LCD
Hard to read?

Check out this
Gauge repair kit!

Have VTS on your
1995-up Sea Doo?

NEW Button Kit
Is now available!

Fuel Filter Element

Fits Most 2 Stroke
Carb Sea Doos

1995-1997 Sportster MPEM Conversion
1995 Speedster MPEM Conversion
1996 Speedster MPEM Conversion
1997 Speedster MPEM Conversion
1996 Challenger MPEM Conversion
1997 Challenger MPEM Conversion

Complete Pump Housing Kits!
DESS & Other Switches
Driveline Seal Assemblies
SeaDoo Tool Rental!
VTS Boot Upgrade Kit
Anti-Rattle Kits For Older Doos !

Jet Pump Rebuilding Services

Links

Non-Wired MPEM Test

787/947 CB Reservoir Oil
1995-2004 VTS Test Info
4 Stroke Fault Codes
1995 & UP VTS Info
Fuel Economy Chart
Jetboat Engine Ref.
PWC Engine Ref. Chart
Choke Cable Info Chart
Coil Reference Chart
Crankshaft Exploded Views
Driveshaft ID Chart
Engine Torques Specs
Fuel Baffle Chart
Gauge Information
Impeller Info Chart
Kit Info Chart
Mikuni Carb Specs
Mikuni Test Info
MPEM Ref & Prog.
MPEM Test Info
My Opinion on Oil…
Part Numbers List
Rotax Case ID
Rotax Engine Info
Sea Doo Models 1988-2010
Sea Doo Paint Codes
Seat Reference Chart
SD Spark Plug Info
029/358 VTS Module Test
Water Flooded 2 Stroke
Wear Ring Removal

Technical Info

Sea Doo Tool Rental!

www.JetBoating.net

A site that has free
Jetboat manuals
and other related
info found here!

Sea Doo Tips

To avoid expensive
electrical system damage
NEVER jump
start your ski !!

Change your pump oil
every 50 hours and
you’ll save money in
the long run !

Save money and time
by doing repairs yourself
instead of using dealer !

Battery dying?
Disconnect your VTS
unit and see if that
fixes the problem.
If so, the vts module
may be the culprit!

New Components

Complete List - ALL On Hand

Accessories & More
Drive/Pump
Gaskets
Hull/Body
Electrical
Engine
Fuel/Air Parts
Nuts Bolts Etc…
O-Rings
Misc. Parts

Used Components

If you are in need of a Sea Doo part and know the number, enter it (with no spaces, dashes) in the search below to see if I have in stock. If not in stock, I may be able to special order. If you don’t know the number, e-mail me your model, year and part(s) needed for availability. If not currently in stock, I may be able to order.

Search My Site

If you need a part you don't see on this site, E-Mail OSDparts.com with the model, year, and part you need and they should be able to help!

The area above is always changing so check back often as links are added.

Your Sea Doo Parts and Info Source!

Welcome and hope you find this site to be your #1 source for technical information for Sea Doo watercraft! I’ve been in the PWC field since the early ‘90s and after using and abusing many different makes, in my opinion nothing beats a Sea Doo for ride comfort, features, and power. Like any mechanical thing though, they do occasionally break so that’s how this site came about. The main goal of this site is to help the Sea Doo owner with routine to not-so-routine maintenance issues that may arise. I have spent many years now compiling the information in this site and the primary objective of its existence is to help Sea Doo watercraft owners with repairs and maintenance as well as advice. If you are in need of technical advice that isn't in this site, please e-mail me and I can try to help. My tech knowledge is mainly from experience with the pre 2000 models, but have reference materials available through 2007 if you need help with a newer model. I hope this site helps you save a little money and maybe even learn a thing or two!

Finally, note that lots of the things stated here are my opinions and only opinions but were gathered over many years in and around Sea Doo watercraft related industries as well as owning quite a few myself. In those years I’ve helped FREE OF CHARGE literally thousands of people with technical and maintenance issues so hope I can help you as well. Due to the number of emails I get, I sometimes can’t answer all but do try to! Also note that sometimes I’ll compile info I see posted on the various Sea Doo boards out there into a page and add it to my site if it looks like it will help out fellow Sea Doo owners. Sometimes that info may be flawed so don’t take it as gospel! If you have suggestions for additions to this site or see errors in it, let me know and I’ll see what I can do! Your comments on improving this site are also appreciated.

THINKING ABOUT A REBUILT CRANK OR SHORTBLOCK?
If you want a complete shortblock, at this time my recommendation is that you go with an OEM Sea Doo rebuild over any of the other rebuilders out there. They're worth the extra money and through your local dealer there should be no shipping charges so they most likely end up about the same cost as a lower quality remanufactured engine. If your dealer does try charging shipping, go through a different one since any decent volume dealer won’t charge you.
If you decide to use one of the many rebuilders, look for oem or similar quality parts in the rebuilds. The main failure point now with most rebuilds is that Chinese bearings and inferior aftermarket parts that are commonly used to reduce costs. The result is an engine that needs rebuilt again very soon. Although some rebuilders offer a "no fault" warranty, my opinion is the only way they can do that is due to super cheap components and low paid unskilled workers to keep the costs low. They don't really care if they have to exchange 10% or more of their products since they factor that into doing business. You should care though since you're the one with the time/expense of changing the bad motor for another questionable one. The cost using oem rebuilds and/or parts will be a bit more, but the reliability will be worth it!
Finally, if your engine has failed and you’re installing a replacement, make sure to rebuild the carbs and insure the fuel system is clean while it’s apart since those items are the #1 cause of engine failures.

LOOKING FOR PARTS AND INFO FOR MODIFYING YOUR SEA DOO FOR MORE SPEED?
Since Sea Doos come from the factory with about as much power as they could offer and keep reliability, modifications almost always shorten the engines time before a rebuild is needed. Therefore, my philosophy is if you want to go faster, buy a faster STOCK Sea Doo!. A modified 2 stroke won’t last long and is usually the cause of peoples complaints about them. Adding a high compression head and other engine mods will ultimately lead to a rebuild sooner than later. If you want your 2 stroke Sea Doo to go faster, buy a stock Sea Doo with a larger engine!
As far as the newer 2 stroke 787 RFI and 947 DI powered skis go, since they’re computer controlled and really touchy (not to mention expensive to rebuild), I wouldn’t recommend one of those if you ever want to add mods for performance. Stick with the carb models for the most flexibility on tuning and modifications.
As for the newest 4 stroke models, it’s worth noting that the same thing has happened in the PWC industry that happened in the Automotive. The EPA has mandated that new PWCs meet strict emissions standards, therefore the newest 4 stroke models end up being really complicated and expensive to repair if any of the numerous systems ever fail. The good news is that you don’t need to do a smog test like you do on new cars so it’s not a problem YET modifying them. For now note though that modifying a stock ski that’s still in warranty can void that warranty so be careful. It can really cost you in the long run!
As for modifying for speed, I think it’s irresponsible for shops to modify the new 4 strokes for as much speed as possible so I don’t see myself ever offering those types of parts. There are way too many incompetent people out there with good credit and put one of those modified skis in their hands and you’re asking for an accident! I do have a few aftermarket parts available that I’ve collected through the years though for old 2 strokes, so if you’re still interested in mods check here for what parts I have in stock.
If you’re still thinking about doing mods, my advice is as follows… If you want to rebuild it soon, up the compression. If you want your engine to last a little longer, an aftermarket pipe and carb mods as well as a different impeller should get you some extra speed without killing too much reliability. I don’t have any actual performance modification info on this site, but there are many online forums and sites that specialize in that so Google them if you’re still in the market for info and help.

MY OPINION ON THE 4 STROKE VS 2 STROKE DEBATE…
On this subject, you’ll get widely varying opinions on which is best but here’s how I see it. The 4 stroke lasts longer and is really reliable, but is much more complicated than a 2 stroke so when they start breaking it’s going to be costlier. When they do break, they need to go to the dealer in most cases. The 4 stroke by design is also a heavier, less agile machine compared to 2 stroke models. It’s also worth noting that the 155hp 4 stroke is much more reliable than the 215hp model as well if you’re shopping for one.
Mechanically, the 2 stroke is a simpler machine and most of the time you can do repairs yourself. If people do the proper maintenance on the 2 strokes, they will usually last hundreds of hours before any major repairs are encountered. Due to strict environmental laws though, PWC manufacturers have phased out 2 stroke production. They now use the heavier, more complicated 4 strokes.

When PWCs first came out, they were a toy like a dirt bike or go cart. They were a cheap, agile fun craft that you didn’t need a loan to buy. These days the machines offered are really heavy, cost more than a boat and take years to pay off. I can’t say I’m happy with the way the industry has gone, but their direction has unfortunately been guided by the EPA and other stricter Gov’t regs. From what I’ve seen, it appears that the industry has given up on pursuing the available technology (see Evinrude E-TEC 2 Stroke Outboard) to make 2 stroke PWCs work but I’m hoping they’re secretly trying to come up with a new 2 stroke engine design for them. Due to the 2 strokes light weight, high revving, and big hp per cc, in my opinion they are clearly the best engines for PWC use so I’m keeping my fingers crossed!

LOOKING AT A USED 947 DI POWERED SEA DOO?
If you found a used DI model in good running condition and is a really good buy, go for it! But if it has been modified or has mechanical problems run from it! Those machines are ok when in stock good running condition but it’s A FACT that modifying for more performance on any 2 stroke Sea Doo will shorten the life of the engine since they originally came from the factory with as much HP as could be offered and still keep reliability. Then the FACT that DI systems are really complicated and parts expensive ($600 fuel pump, various sensors that need a buds to diagnose, engine much more expensive to rebuild) will make you your dealers favorite customer! In my opinion for the minor fuel savings (130hp 951cc Carb - 14.5gph (at WOT)// 130hp 951DI - 12.4gph (at WOT)) and minimal performance advantages, that machine isn’t worth the long term big expenses for repairs WHEN it breaks. Stick with the easier to repair, easier to mod carb models and you’ll thank me later! Of course, that’s JUST MY OPINION so take it for what it’s worth!

YOU HAVE A SEA DOO DI OR RFI? A NOTE ABOUT LIMP MODE…
The 787 RFI and 947 DI powered skis features what I consider a really dumb design which incorporates a Limp Mode. From what I’ve seen from past experience, Limp Mode works kind of like the Cadillac Northstar design... that seemed like a good idea too. The Northstar was bragged to be able to run approx 50 miles with no coolant. Of course they didn't mention the engine was junk when it finally quit. As for your Sea Doo, that means if say a fuel injector malfunctions instead of the ski shutting down and saving you an expensive repair, the engine keeps running with one cylinder to get you back to shore. Of course by the time you're at the dock it has trashed the cylinder that was getting no fuel so you need a new motor! In this day of everyone wanting to keep everyone safe, I can see how Sea Doo thinks sacrificing the machine to get you back to shore is acceptable. Not me and probably not you as well. If you ever experience a limp mode condition, shut it off immediately and get it towed. Trust me whatever the expense on the tow, it will be much less than the cost of a rebuild!

THINKING ABOUT PURCHASING A MID ‘90S 787 POWERED DOO?
You should check to see if the ski has a 787X engine (look on tag on mag housing). The 787X was a limited production (a little over 500) engine that was installed in 1995 XP800 and some 1996 XP and GSX to make Sea Doo eligible for the 1200 racing class. It’s the same as the 787 with the exception of the cylinders being bored 0.25mm over from the factory. Unlike the Hemi Superbird, that one isn’t worth much! The horsepower increase was minimal and since you can’t bore it any further without rave valve machining and aftermarket pistons, that engine normally requires a re-sleeve if you toast a bearing or ring. If possible, go with a standard bore 787 machine.

HAVE A 787 OR 947 ROTAX IN YOUR PWC?
On various Sea Doo boards, I’ve noticed people having counterbalance gear failures. I think most of the problem lies in the fact that most 787/947 Sea Doo owners don’t realize there is a oil reservoir in the crankcase that needs checked. Check out the 787/947 Reservoir Check page I put together for help with that!

DO YOU OWN A SUPERCHARGED SEA DOO?
If you have a 4TEC with a supercharger, there is a problem that I feel needs mentioned here. The Supercharged model is a great machine no doubt but lots of supercharger failures are in peoples futures on older models which still have the ceramic clutch washers instead of the updated metal ones. The problem is that under repeated no load high revs like you find when it jumps a wave, the supercharger produces excess boost which puts strain on the superchargers’ ceramic clutches. Riding habits are a big factor on when they go, but clutch failure typically happens around 50 hours and ALL ceramic clutches still in use will eventually fail. Usually when the ceramic clutches on the supercharger fail, they go places where they shouldn’t so the engine has to come apart. Sea Doo will put in an upgraded clutch assembly under warranty, but you’re out of luck if it fails once the warranty has expired. If you own one of these machines and it hasn’t been updated, I would recommend having it checked regularly by your local dealer or mechanic and get the metal washers update as soon as you notice a decrease in rpm/power. Note though that even the updated clutch is a part that wears so it WILL fail eventually if not rebuilt occasionally. From everything I’ve read, the best solution is a hydraulic clutch from Rotax Racing that’s supposed to be bulletproof, but don’t have much info on that one.

HAVE YOU OVERHEATED YOUR SEA DOO RECENTLY?
If so, you should closely monitor the running condition of the engine. An overheated engine can score the cylinders resulting in a loss of compression. More often though, getting an engine hot enough to melt hoses and wires will also melt the plastic cages that retain the balls in their proper places in the main bearings. If those get brittle and fail, the crank will go very fast after that. If you notice any unusual noises shortly after an overheat has occurred, you might want to pull the engine and have rebuilt before it grenades and costs much more to repair.

ARE YOU IN OR THINKING ABOUT STARTING A RENTAL BUSINESS?
Unfortunately, due to the phasing out of the ‘ol reliable 587 quite a while back and all 2 strokes as of now, we’re relegated to using 4 Strokes. Those are nice machines but too powerful/fast for rentals in my opinion. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Sea Doo comes up with a lighter weight/more agile/less powerful ski for rental use but as of now have heard nothing of such a thing. Hopefully they will realize that a good number of people get their first taste of a PWC by renting one and will continue to provide suitable craft for the needs of the Rental/Guided Tour field. If by chance you are in or considering starting a rental business, check out my tips on rental business operation. I have gathered these opinions and suggestions from my experiences in the rental field.

Your Sea Doo Parts and Info Source!

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