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Parafilm "M is a modern masking material especially suited

for use in the hobby of precision scale modeling.

 

The advantages of Parafilm is that it is thin and thereby

minimizes the paint thickness "bridge," or "dam," that

sometimes occurs between adjacent colors. Parafilm is semi-

transparent when first put into place. This allows you to

see edges and places where you might wish to trim n  your

masking. It is "low-tac" and will not pull up paint layers

that have been properly applied. And, amazingly, Parafilm is

conformal -- stretchable -- which allows it to form smoothly

over compound curves.

 

All this does not mean Parafilm is a "magic" masking

material or something capable of automatically producing

miracles. It is a material better than most but it is also a

material requiring some instruction and practice before you

begin work on a key project. We do not recommend the use of

Parafilm as a mask when using Fast drying lacquer paints.

 

Once you've gone through this explanatory sheet and have

used Parafilm on some test parts we are sure you will be

impressed with the material.

 

How to use Parafilm M  Cut a length of Parafilm about 4

inches long. Remove the paper backing. Hold the Parafilm at

each end and stretch it slowly -- do not snap it -- to 4 or

5 times its length. Now place the stretched film down on a

clean area of your work table. This is done to relax it to a

natural length. [See illustration]

 

 

 This stretching thins the film and also activates the wax

surface so it becomes "tacky." After it has relaxed for one

minute lay it onto your practice plastic or painted surface.

Gently press it down with your finger. Do not press it down

with a burnishing tool. That is not necessary on large open

areas and will only cause problems by excessively stretching

the film.

 

Finger pressure is fine and the warmth of the finger will

help the Parafilm adhere to the surface. Be sure your hands

are free of skin oil or consider wearing a finger sheath

(available at stationery and office supply stores) on your

pressure finger.  You can now trim the Parafilm to produce a

pattern as required. Lightly cut with a sharp Hobby Knife. A

new blade is best and light pressure is recommended so as

not to score the plastic and/or underlying paint. Practice

this a few times and you will develop the proper "touch."

Finally "finger press" the edge once again.

 

Now spray the area you want. It is always good airbrushing

practice to spray vertically to the masked surface or at a

slight angle away From the masked edge. This is true for any

masking material. Allow the paint to dry before slowly

lifting the Parafilm mask No masking residue will be left

and you will have a thin and sharp paint edge.

 

Masking from a wing, over a fillet, and up a fuselage wall,

for example, requires a special technique. You never want to

"bridge" Parafilm across a gap and then push it down --

relying on its stretch -- to fill a large radius. You must

work the Parafilm From one surface, into the fillet and then

up the intersecting wall.

 

You might want to try it both ways on your practice model

and you'll soon discover the truth of what we say. Do not

push Parafilm into tight places with metal tools. Make some

custom wood shapes From wooden cuticle pushers [See reference

illustration] and moisten the wood when pushing the Parafilm

into place. And do not press hard. Pressing hard will

distort the masked edges. You will find Parafilm is superb

when working with small parts such as landing gear,

munitions and canopies. You can cut it into fine strips

 

 

needed and because it is conformal it moves around compound

curves with ease. It sticks well to itself and small pieces

of Parafilm can be placed atop each other to produce the

perfect mask on small and curving parts.

 

Parafilm "M"is different. Work with it. Get to know it. Only

a few practice sessions will have you up and running and

producing beautifully crafted paint work. Parafilm is a

material which will help you make truly masterful models.

For further information we suggest you read the article

entitled "Parafilm M: The Latest Word in Masking" by David

Lennox. This appears in the Feburary 1993 issue of Fine

Scale Modeler on page 30

Parafilm M -- It's not just for expert modelers anymore . . . and it never was! Parafilm M is one of those modeling devices or substances that has some kind of mystical reputation that keeps people from appraoching it out of fear or awe. Lighten up folks! It's laboratory Saran Wrap for test tubes, and it takes about two minutes to learn the basics of using the stuff to mask canopies. Parafilm is a stretchy, waxy, impermeable film that becomes very clingy when stretched in a single direction. That's what makes it perfect to seal up test tubes of concoctions and to mask surfaces for painting. It doesn't react with enamels or acrylics -- I have no personal experience with its compatibility with lacquers such as Floquil, but Testors Glosscote and Dullcote are lacquers and don't react with it either. The beauty of Parafilm is that there is no real difference between using it or Scotch tape to mask a canopy. To activate the material, you cut a piece off the roll -- it comes on a wax-paper backing that removes easily -- grasp opposing edges and stretch about twice or three times its length in one direction. This is important -- ONE DIRECTION ONLY -- so you don't tear holes in the film . Holding the opposing edges firmly means that the film will not narrow appreciably during the stretch. Because this stuff seems to stretch forever, you really need to cut off just what you can handle in a coordinated manner. I've found that a two-to-three inch long section is quite adequate to cover something like a 1/48 B-25 nose glazing with a fair bit of excess film. You can cut the resulting length of film to size for whatever you're masking. Center the piece over the item to be masked and gently pull it down over the item. You can then press the Parafilm onto the surface and into the lines of the molded framing. If you need to use multiple pieces of Parafilm, don't worry -- the material adheres very well to itself. Burnishing Parafilm often causes damage. The best technique to ensure the material is fitted to every nook and cranny is to use the end of a toothpick as a roller, rolling it across the film and into frame lines and seams. Trimming Parafilm takes a little care, since it is a little more rubbery than Scotch transparent tape, but all you need is a FRESH No. 11 X-Acto blade. Cut along the framing and panel areas to be painted, and make sure that cuts meet at all corners. After you're done, start by lifting up a section of masked framing with the tip of your knife. If you lift part of the masking over a clear panel, don't panic. Just press the material back down, recut the area and peel the frame off again. After you finish uncovering the framing, go back and press over the masked surfaces as a precaution. If you manage to wear a hole in any part of the mask, use white glue to cover the hole. After you've finished painting and are ready to remove the Parafilm, things get even better. The mask actually hardens a bit from the accumulated paint, so when you lift up a corner of the mask and start peeling, the Parafilm removes smoothly and with none of the residue you get from Scotch tape. Some people say that masking something like a Ju 88 or He 111 canopy with Parafilm is a chore and a half. Think about it -- it's a chore and 2/3rds with something as unflexible as transparent tape, and you get another 1/3rd of a chore when you have to clean adhesive residue off your glazing. So, pay some high school or college student to fift a few feet of Parafilm M from the lab -- just kidding!!!! Go to a lab supply store or check your favorite real or virtual hobby emporium. A roll lasts forever . . . . unless you're doing a full collection of Ju 88's in 1/48 scale. Then it may last only several years. Go forth and mask!!!!

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