The most common asked questions from plastic modelers
Q. I've noticed that some of the newer stock car
kits have decals for the lettering on tires. What is the best way
to apply these?
A. Apply the decals the same way you would apply
any of the decals in your kit. However, it's best to use the
plain side of the tires instead of the side with the raised
letters - all the decals will lay a little better on the flat
surface. In order to fit the wheels into the tire you will need
to remove the thin rubber 'rib' which runs through the inside of
the tire. This can be done with a hobby knife.
Q. What does dry brushing mean? How do you do it
and in what circumstances would you use it?
A. Dry brushing is a technique primarily used
when a weathered look is preferred on a model. After the base
color has been applied, for example, brown, you may want to dry
brush flat black over some areas to give it an aged look. Simply
dip the brush in flat black paint, remove the majority of the
paint from the brush on paper and then streak the brush lightly
over the area to be dry brushed.
Q. Once decals are dried, can they be removed
with water using a wet sponge (especially if the body is painted
and you don't want to affect the paint job)?
A. Scotch tape (the old fashion kind) can be
used to remove decals. Press the tape down over the decal and
pull it back. If this fails, a product called Poly S
Easy-Lift-Off may be purchased. This is a clear liquid product
applied by brush. It is available in most hobby stores. Always
follow label and cautionary instructions.
Q. Can you wax a model with car polish and then
apply the decals? Will they adhere?
A. Certain car waxes react poorly with model car
paint. Always test the wax on a spare piece of plastic first. The
wax shouldn't adversely affect the decals, but again always test
first.
Q. How do I get the glue off my windshield?
A. This is a toughie, but it can be done. All it
takes is a little patience and a few supplies. First, you'll need
two grades of “wet” sandpaper, fine and extra fine. Use
the fine grade to sand off the glue spot and follow it up with
the extra fine grade in order to get all the sanding scratches
out. You'll end up with a smooth, but foggy windshield. At this
point, you'll need a good brand of automobile rubbing compound.
Presto! Your windshield is as good as new.
Q. My paint is bubbling and running when I
airbrush. How do I get a nice shiny paint job like the model
pictured on the box cover?
A. If your paint is bubbling and running, you
are probably applying too much paint at one time. Don't go for
your final coat on the first try. Dust several thin layers of
paint on and let each coat dry before applying your final thick
coat. Always remember to start spraying a little ahead of the
model and don't stop until you've sprayed past the model.
Q. How do I paint the chrome trim to look as
real as possible?
A. Many modelers use a product called Bare-Metal
Foil, which is a thin adhesive- backed foil, available in many
hobby shops. It can be very easily applied to the model's chrome
trim with very satisfying results, and is available in chrome,
black chrome, gold and copper, and includes application
instructions.
Q. How do I strip old paint off my models?
A. There are several methods when it comes to
removing paint. Try using Easy-Off Oven Cleaner for good results.
There is also a product on the market aimed at hobbyists called
Unpaint, and many modelers swear by it. With any of these
products, follow the label and cautionary instructions.
Q. How do I paint the white letters on the tire
without slopping the paint all over the rest of the tires?
A. Very carefully. Actually, it's probably
easier to do than you think. Simply get yourself a very, very
small brush like a ProModeler 10/0 spatter, and some ProModeler
acrylic flat white paint. It's important to use acrylic paint,
since enamel will not dry on rubber tires. Carefully paint the
white onto the raised letters, and if you do slop a little onto
the tires, simply take a sharp ProModeler hobby knife and, using
the tip, carefully scrape away the excess paint.
Q. Sometimes, the grille area on my car model
looks too "chromey". How do I make that area look more
realistic?
A. You'll be amazed at how realistic looking the
grille area will become when you simply go over it with a thin
wash of flat black enamel paint. Before the paint dries, wipe it
off with a soft cloth leaving the paint in the recessed area, but
exposing the chrome on the raised areas. Make sure you use an
enamel paint as opposed to an acrylic paint which may tend to
remove some of the chrome plating during the wiping process.
