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Initial Pinion Gear Installation
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I believe that a good practice if you are using a new pinion bearing is to use the old pinion
bearing during the initial installation (which is used only to
check the pinion depth and
wear pattern without the crush sleeve.) You can use either a file or a grinding stone and
die grinder to widen the opening in the
center of the old pinion bearing so that it may
slide up and down on the pinion gear very easily. Doing this will allow you to reshim the
pinion and recheck wear
patterns easily, versus having to press on and off the bearing
with each attempt at getting the wear patten correct. Then, once the desired wear pattern
is
achieved, you can press the new bearing into place following the instructions below
and proceed to "Final Installations."
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Grinding out the inside of the old pinion bearing so it will slide up and down on the pinion gear. This allows you to go between
pinion shims when setting
the proper pinion depth without having to press on and off the new bearing. ONE NOTE: It is
probably a good idea for you to measure the thickness of the new
pinion bearing versus the old pinion bearing just to
make sure they are the same thickness and will allow the pinion depth to be consistent during both the
initial installatiion
and final installation.
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Bearing Installation: (ignore if you have decided to use the idea above)
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- First slide the shim over the pinion gear. I used the bearing separator backwards with a two jaw
gear puller to install the pinion bearing. I had no luck
heating the bearing and pounding the new bearing
in place may not be the best idea. To install the pinion gear using a gear puller takes a lot of torque
so I
improvised and placed two holes in my work bench and placed two large screwdrivers through
the bearing separator and bench. This allowed me to apply torque to the
center bolt of the gear puller
without having to brace the assembly myself.
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Two holes drilled through my
workbench.
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My setup for installing the new pinion bearing. Notice first that the bearing separator
is upside down. Next notice the large screwdrivers placed
through the holes in the
bearing separator and down through the holes in the workbench. This allowed me
to apply torque to the center bolt, which drew the pinion
bearing all the way up tight
against the pinion head.
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- Slide the pinion yoke over the splined end of the pinion gear.
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- Install the pinion nut. First, install the pinion nut hand tight. At this point you will notice that the pinion
gear has a lot of front to rear (up and
down) play. Using a breaker bar and some method of keeping the
pinion gear from spinning (I simply used a large screwdriver inserted through one of the holes of
the
pinion yoke) slowly tighten the pinion nut until the pinion gear has no play. We want to use this pinion
gear installation as practice for when it is
installed with crush collar after we have ensured proper
pinion and carrier shim thicknesses.
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In the picture to the left notice first the large screwdriver placed
through the pinion yoke so that as the pinion nut is turned counter-clockwise
it
catches on the housing and holds the pinion stationary. With
the breaker bar SLOWLY tighten the pinion nut until there is no
play left in the pinion gear.
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- Using a 1/4" beam or dial style torque wrench, check bearing preload by rotating the pinion nut (without
bracing the pinion) to check how much torque
it takes to turn the pinion gear (called the bearing preload.)
Once you get your reading, go back to the breaker bar (bracing the pinion) and tighten the
pinion nut
about 1/8 of a turn. Then go back to your 1/4" drive torque wrench and check the torque necessary to
turn the pinion gear. Continue to alternate
between tightening and measuring preload until the preload
registers 10-14 in./lbs. if you are reusing the old pinion bearing or 20-28 in./lbs. if you are
using a new
pinion bearing. At this point if you go past the torque rating you can back off the pinion nut until you get
the correct reading. Later on, however,
when we install the pinion gear with the crush collar you will
not be able to back the pinion nut off to decrease the bearing preload. If you go past the torque
rating
you will need to get a new crush collar and start again. Use this step as practice for the time when the
proper torque rating must be reached.
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Using the 1/4" torque wrench to read bearing preload. It
is not very noticeable from the picture but the in./lb. torque
wrench is 1/4" drive and the
pinion nut commands using
a socket which is 1 1/16". This socket is 1/2" drive. I needed
two adaptors: one to go from 1/4" to 3/8" and the second
to go from 3/8" to
1/2".
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If you are using a depth set up tool now is the time to measure your pinion depth.
If you are using the Pro Form tool, the only measurement that you'll need to
take
is the pinion depth measurement as the bearing bore, pinion head thickness with
shim, and the offset will not change from the first measurement. Using
the Pro Form
tool the same way as described earlier, I took a measurement which was 2.540"
for a total pinion depth of 4.548". Remember that the spec. from
Ford is 4.415", so
my measurment was way off. It was, however, within .005" from my earlier measurement
so I had some comfort that this I had reached my
reference point. As I said before,
if I had this install to do over, I would never have bothered with this tool.
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Back to Contents
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Carrier Installation and Setting Backlash
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