In the rough and in the woods.

Well this is the time I have been looking forward to. I hope that you have enjoyed the information that I have placed in these pages. Over the next few months I will be moving some of the content to my other web page and get this one back to mainly Mopar content. But for right now, We're Gonna Hammer and Glass it. This is the repair of the body for using it as a plug to make a fiberglass mold from. There are short cuts I take here I would not use to repair a street car. Kickin' Glass!!!!!

1.Blast and clean the body. Its not a must but I do it to preserve it even though when I get through the steel body will be un useable for a Rod later in life. Unless mods are made later.
2.At least make it hold primer. Primer doesn't hold onto rust to well when it comes to parting the mold. Primer might come with the mold. Notice the top section that had been rivited in over the origonal soft top has been removed.
3. Luckly it wasn't welded and leaded back in the 40's,50's or 60's when it was a Hot Rod. It had that 50 style red and the 40's Sea Green on top of the Origional Black. (Found that in the wgheel wells.)
4.Wire Brush the body and clean the metal with a "Metal Prep Chemical" before priming. Auto supply store. By the way the wood in the top area is still good.
5.This shot shows it in some primer.
6.One of the areas that will be repaired along the way.
7.Another Top View
8.Rain gutters removed. Metal replacement strips were made and rivited in. Then smoothed over with plastic. Rain gutters may be added if wanted later.Notice after door was fitted the gap was excessive between the top of the door and the area where the rain gutter was removed. 1/8 inch rod was spot welded for filler. This makes the door alignment gap around the door consistent now.
9.Rain gutter around trunk is filled after trunk lid has been fitted and square of the opening checked.
10.The repairs to the lower panel and quarter corners should be made before filling. This is a step I missed but have gone back and am repairing now.
11.Windshield area being filled. No Windshield frame will be used. Metal panels spot welded in the cowl panel vent openings, filled and ready to prime.(These things always leak).
12.Top has chicken wire removed. Then I put the metal back in place after cleaning the area and refitting the old top patch panel. 1 inch thinwall square tube was used to support it. Spacers put in to level it up while spot welding in and hammering it into shape.
13. Plastic was wiped in abundent amounts. A grinder used to rough it in then rewiped with more plastic.Spary cans were used to guide coat (mist coat)the plastic filler. A airfile was used (only for the weight) with 24 & 36 grit sandpaper without air cross sanding from corner to corner, and from side to side, continously swapping sides, to bring in a true top contour.
14.80 grit when close then prime. The primer I use is DURATECH. It is a catylized fiberglass type primer. High build, fast dry, easy sand type of primer made for this application and polishes out to a high gloss for waxing with mold release.
15.Body put back on the frame for squaring door openings for mold making. Rear fenders fitted.
16.Rocker panel was made and put in durring the Q.P & Cowl panel repair.
17.Both cowl areas were bad.
18. I called Bill Gaborko in California for measurments from his 32.
19. Then the patch panels were made and welded in. The door was in place, fitted and lined up. Then the hood side panel was matched up to the coutour of the offset.
20.Shrinker/Stretcher was used to make needed radius's.
21.Quarter panel Measurments (wheel radius opening template made)between door and rear fender opening were taken then panel spot welded in.
22.Inner floor sub structures were made and welded in before the patch panel was put in.
23.Here is the 32 DeSoto hood. The cowl vents are smaller in it than the 32 Plymouth and the cut out for the radiator mascot does not exist in the DeSoto. Other than that they are demintionaly the same. I have cut the vent openings out of the hood.
24.Cleaning begins on the rusty panel.
25.Looking good
26.Rear Fenders, Running Boards, and splash aprons are put on and alignment checked again.
27.Firewall removed
28.New Firewall in place and being welded in.
Different angles A. View 1 View 2 View 3 View 4 View 5 View 6 View 7 In Primer In Primer 1 In Primer 2 In Primer 3 In Primer 4
Now for Door Repair
29. Make the piece first for the repair of the drivers side before carefully cutting out the rust if you still have any bottom. If not make the best templates you can so you can do both sides the same.
30. I was lucky enough to have 1 good door bottom out of 4 doors to get a pattern off of.
31. Use a air saw, or die grinder with a cut off blade to remove the rotten metal. This minimizes distortion of the metal. Fit the piece in place. Be sure not to use clamps that will damage the skin by dimples or dents. No reason to cause more work.
32. Note the curve in the door bottom. Nothing has been welded yet.
33. Fit the door and check the gaps and alignment. To minimize warpage you need to weld it in place so you can keep an eye on the movement. A little at a time. Cool with a wet rag after spot weld. Only after you are sure you like it.
34. Note the strap I used to hold it closed. You will want to open and close it while fitting it. It should line up when barely open.
PROGRESS!!! Slow but sure.
Continued On Next Page