Top half of the air box, air filter, intake hose, and throttle body are removed. You have to remove these items to begin this project. Having the throttle body heater bypassed makes this project alot easier! You can see the bypass in the picture.
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Here is a close up shot of the oil pump drive (its that round thing below the fuel lines).
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Another shot (bad picture)
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Bottom half of the air box with the throttle body bolts, oil pump drive clamp w/ bolt, and the hold down clamp for the fuel lines w/ bolt.
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A picture of the hold down clamp for the fuel lines removed. These fuel lines will get in your way, trust me.
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Here is a picture of me relieving the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. Just unscrew the cap off the schrader valve, hit the pin in the middle once (watch out, gas will shoot out!), the fuel pressure should be relieved. Hit the pin again to make sure there is no more pressure, if no fuel comes out, the fuel pressure is relieved. NOTE: My plan was to remove the fuel lines on the fuel rail so they would be out of the way (I had problems getting the drive out because of the fuel lines). I discovered that it was literally impossible to remove those lines without pulling the plenum. I didn't want to do this, so I had to think of something else (refer to the next picture).
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Oil pump drive finally coming out of the engine block. NOTE: Since I decided not to remove the fuel lines off the fuel rail, I slightly bent the fuel lines in ward toward the intake. Be very careful when doing this! You could easily break a fuel line. Bending the lines gain you very little room to get the oil pump drive out of there.
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After bending the fuel lines more, and prying it out with a large flathead screw driver, the oil pump drive finally came out of the engine block. Since the fuel lines were still in place, I couldn't get the oil pump drive straight out, i had to angle it slightly (when its almost out) to get it out of the block.
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A picture of the oil pump drive with the original o-ring still on it.
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Another angle of the oil pump drive.
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I'm holding the new o-ring that will replace the old o-ring on the oil pump drive.
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This piece was located in between the oil pump drive and the engine block. Its some kinda of gasket of some sort. This piece can be reused as far as i know (the o-ring is the cause of the leak, not this piece), be sure to reinstall it with the oil pump drive. If your car doesn't have this gasket, don't worry about it.
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Another shot of the new o-ring (top) and the engine block/oil pump drive gasket (bottom).
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Here is a picture of the old o-ring removed off the oil pump drive. You'll notice that the ring will be hard as a rock where as the new o-ring is soft and stretchy. I took a utility knife and cut the old o-ring in one spot, then I took a small flathead screwdriver. It broke right off. When removing the o-ring, be sure you don't scar the oil pump drive!
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Oil pump drive with the new o-ring installed. Since the new ring is soft and stretchy, it should go on the oil pump drive easily. Start on the gear end and work the o-ring up.
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Oil Pump drive reintalled. This part looks easy, but its really not. When reinstalling the oil pump drive, it has to line up to the oil pump shaft which is a hex pattern (if the oil pump shaft came out with the oil pump drive, you'll have to reinstall it, i'm not sure how since mine didn't come out). I had to raise up and slightly turn the oil pump drive at least 20 times, finally it lined up with th oil pump shaft and the gear cought the cam. You'll know when its seated, the oil pump drive will drop into place. After it dropped into place, the oil pump drive was sticking up about an inch because of the new oil ring. To seat is fully I took the butt of my flathead screw driver (that was the same screw driver i pryed the oil pump drive out with!) and a rubber hammer and gave it a good tap and it slide all the way in and seated perfectly.
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Oil pump drive clamp being reinstalled with a long extension socket adapter. When placing the the oil pump drive clamp on the block, be sure not to drop it (same with the screw), theres a chance it could be lost in the engine bay forever.
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Since I had to bend the fuel lines quite a bit to get to the oil pump drive, i realigned them on the fuel line bracket by taking the fuel line clamp and forcing them on the clamp indentions (for the fuel lines) and screwing the clamp on the fuel line bracket. By doing this, it will line up the fuel lines perfectly again like they were before this project started.
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After putting everything back together and cleaning up the engine a little, I started the car (had to turn the key and let it sit for about 10 seconds so the fuel pump could build up pressure). I did this to make sure it had oil pressure and there was no visable leak from the new o-ring. The next project was to put away all the tools I used!
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