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Performance mods you can do to your car

Thanks to Jim Trevino for this info

THE FOLLOWING IS TO BE DONE AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION AND I TAKE NO REPONSIBILITY FOR THE RAMIFICATIONS THAT IT MAY CAUSE.

Installing a tach

first off, you have to find a place to mount the tach, asfter yo have mounted it, run the wire to where you will hook them up, first off, hook up the ground wire, run it to any ground from the car, i prefer to use the wres from the radio, black is ground, so use it, next, hook up the lights for the tach, if you hae a fog light switch, hook it up to the wire coming into the switch if it is a factory setup, if not, then you can use the out wire. aslong as you use your fog lights your tach will be lit up, next, the power, you can use the ignition acesory wire for this, i used the one from the radio for this too, there is a yellow wire i believe, not positive, its either yelow or red, but i;m pretty sure it the yellow, you can test this with a voltmeter or even easier, turn your key to on, not start and if your tach is an autometer or any other kind with a light, it will light up, next comes the hard part, first you need to run a wire through the firewall, i find its easiest to use the gian grommet that gm used to run all of its wires, you can hide the wire anywhere you want just make sure its not touching anything that will heat up to omuch and melt it. run the wire to the passanger side headlight, then jack up your car, pull off the wheel, remove the wheel well by removing the half dozen or so screws, take off the wheel well and if you look into the bumoper and up you will see the computer, cant miss it, its just before the headlight, look at the wires (you may need to remove a bunch of electrical tape, you will see 3 or 4 white wire, the tach signal wire is one of these, the tach wire should be the furthest one from you, check them all and once you find it, tie it on, solder, or whatever you want to use, be sure to re tape all the wire and retape the wire you cut into aswell, then put it al lback together and your done, take under an hour to do all the work.

Tuner tube removal

This tip is for those of you that have the 2.4 twin cam. This is a very easy to do mod and cost nothing except 10 minutes of your time and you will get 1 to 3 hp out of it. First you have to disconect the rubber s tube from the black box on top of your throttle body. Then the tuner tube is a tube that is right inside the open end of the black box, just pull it out and then put back on the rubber s tube and your all done.

Engine compartment enhancement

Well, one easy way is to redo the wire loom inside the engine compartment. You can get the wire loom from The JC Whitney Catalog and you can get to there website through my link's page. Here is a little info on the wire loom colors and what you will need. Red - 71DK1734X, blue - 74DK7300Y, yellow - 15DK8400X, purple - 81DK0999N and teal green - 81DK0997R. You might need two kits of it, depending on how much you wish to do. Each kit cost $11.99 (US funds) plus shipping where ever you live. The kit comes with 10 feet each of these sizes 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4"

Getting a different spoiler?

If you have a Cav or Fire with a stock spoiler on it, before you go and get an after-marker one to replace it, be it for looks or for use, check to see if they are able to do it without having to get a new trunk lid. I no with the Cav there are 8 holes that has to be welded up and that it is just better to get a new trunk lid. So many welds will warp you lid.

Changing your headlights?

This tip is for all of you that want to change your lights over to the World Light Ice Blue Lights or the Blue Ion Light. These lights state right on them for off road use only. So if you change over to them, keep your stock lights just incase the boys in blue in your home town don't like you having them.

Window tint

By law it is illegal to tint the front side windows more than 4 inches down from the top, and for the back side windows you can only tint to 20% and for the rear window 5%. This law might be different in your state. So keep in mind the boys in blue when doing this.

Engine oil

Here is a tip on oil. Chevy recommends that you use Valvoline 5w30 in your car. Stay with what Chevy recommends, unless you go to a performance oil. Then I would go with Amsoil 5w30 or Mobil 1 5w30 all synthetic oil. Also I would upgrade to a Wicks oil filter.

Strut brace

Front strut brace is an easy mod to add to your car. First step is to remove the black hood weather striping at the top of your fire wall, then take of the wiring that is underneath it, remove the 2 inside nuts from each side of the struts and put the brace in place. Now just but the nuts back on, then the wire back in place and the weather striping back and your all done.

Rubber motor-mounts from RKSport

This is for all of you that have got the motor mount insert from RKSport or for those of you that will be getting one and want some help on how to put it in. Now it is all the same on what ever engine you have. First step is to take the hose that hooks into the radiator fill bottle or over fill bottle what ever you want to call it that is closet to the fire wall off the bottle. Then take out radiator fill bottle. There is one screw that is in the front part of the bottle remove it and lift the bottle up and out and swing it over to the front part of the car. Now there are 4 nuts, 3 of them are on top of the steal part of the motor mount, but you can only see 2 of them at this time, and the 4 is down under where the radiator bottle was. Remove the top 2 nuts and under the one that is closet to the fire wall there will be the 3rd one I was talking about, remove that one. Now remove the one that is down where the radiator bottle would be. Now you have the top part of the rubber motor mount showing. There are 2 bolts that go into the top part of the rubber motor mount, remove them and remove the top rubber part of the motor mount. Now the insert fits really tight so put some dish soap on it, make sure you put it all over it. Don't use WD40 cause the dish soap will just wash out with water and the WD40 will stay until it dissolves and that takes a lot more time. Now push the insert in from the top as far as you can push it in. Now this is where it fits really tight, there are a couple ways you can get it to go down all the way. 1 is use a rubber mallet and try tapping it down. 2 the one I think is the best, is to put back on the part of the rubber motor mount and tighten the bolts back down. This will cause the insert to be push into place. Now when you get that done put back on the steal part of the motor mount and put back in the radiator bottle, make sure you put the hose back on the radiator bottle you took off and you are done. Took me 15 min to do.

To get fog's and high's to work together (95-97)

How to get your foglights to work with your hi-beams. This is for the 95 to 97 J-body. Below this one will tell you how on the 98, I am working on how to do it on the 99's. This is a simple step to do, and only requires a few minutes to do it. Look up under the front bumper and between the radiator. In the middle of the car there are to relays. You need the relay on the passenger side of the car. In that relay is 4 wires, a black one, a blue one, an orange one and a pink one. Remove some of the electrical tape and cut the pink wire, make sure you cut it about 2 or more inches away from the relay just incase you want to redo the wire. Now just tape the 2 ends of the pink wire up and re-tape all the wires back together and your foglights will work with you hi-beams.

To get fog's and high's to work together (98)

This is how to get your fog lights to work with your hi-beams on the 98 J-body's. Open the hood and look between the front bumper and radiator. There are two relays mounted (with plastic snaps) to the back of the bumper. The larger one located by the passenger side headlight controls the fog lamp operation when the high beams are on. The smaller one located toward the middle of the bumper controls the fog lamp operation when the low beams are on via the dash switch. Pop the large relay on the passenger loose from the bumper and remove the electrical tape to access the wiring. The wires to be concerned with are one black and one green/white striped. Look at the bottom of the relay where the wires are entering and find the numbers stamped on the base. The pole "30" has a black wire, cut this one (there are two so look carefully at the numbers on the relay). Next cut the green/white stripe wire. After this wire has been cut, tape off the end going into the large relay. Next you will need to connect the remaining three ends together (two black and one green/white stripe) , I used a "butt connector". Re-tape the wires, pop the relay back in place and that's it.

Shaved emblems

Shaved emblems is only the removing the Chevy/Pontiac and the Cavalier/Sunfire bages off of the car. To do this is very easy. Just take a hair dryer and heat them up and them slowly pull them off. When doing this, after you get them off you should clean the area with bug and tar remover and then wax over the spot they where at.

To raise a cars value...honestly!

If you have a car show that you can get you car into, do it. Reason I say this is cause it does not matter if you when or not, but it shows that you take care of your car and if and when you want to get a new one (better be a J-body) it shows the dealer or who ever is buying it that well taken care of. Believe this or not, after doing the Autorama my car went up in value almost $1.000 bucks.