Wat Arun

This is my third visit to Bangkok (fourth actually if you consider a transit at the airport) but it might as well been my first because the last time i was here was in 1992 and i can't really remember much except for the heat and the pollution. Thankfully this time around, the experience was better.

Upon arrival at the airport at around 11am, we decided to head down to Hualamphong train station to buy our tickets to Nong Khai where we'll cross the border to Laos. We decided to take a bus to save some money. The airport express counter told us to take bus no. 11 at a bus stop around 300m from the airport so we decided to follow their advice. When we boarded the bus, we were told that the bus didn't go to Hualamphong and they didn't really understand what we were saying anyway so we disembarked from the bus. Since we didn't really know how to get there, we decided to hail a cab. It wasn't easy trying to get the driver to understand us either. It took quite a bit of gesturing before he knew what we were talking about. The route to Hualamphong took us past a couple of toll-booths where we had to pay toll fees.

At the train station, it was relatively hassle-free getting the tickets. We got an air-conditioned second-class overnight train to Nong Khai which costs around 600 baht. But it set off only at 8pm which meant we had quite a bit of time to spare. Thus we decided to head for Chatuchak Market. This market is located just south of the new Northern bus terminal and is open all day Saturday and Sunday. This meant it was quite far from the train station. Anyway when we reached there, it turned out to be this huge marketplace which sells almost everything, even opium pipes. We took some time walking around and got lost in this enormous labyrinth. There are lots of paths and turns you could take and at every corner, there's bound to be something that catches your eye. After a while, since we still had lots of time, we decided to head to Siam Square, the shopping mecca of Bangkok.

Chatuchak Weekend Market

We took the skytrain from Chatuchak to the Siam Square station for 30 baht if i don't remember wrongly. Our first stop was Siam Centre where we tried to find food. We ended up eating at a food court where one had to purchase coupons to buy food. After lunch, we decided to walk around. Siam Centre is a rather upmarket shopping centre featuring brands like Armani Exchange, Swarovski, etc and there is a cinema on the top floor. There is also an oxygen bar at the level just below the cinema. After a while, we headed to Mahboonkrong Centre (MBK) which is just opposite Siam Centre. MBK is a huge complex spread over several floors with each floor selling something different. There is also a cinema in this building and there are many stores selling cheap apparel. Thereafter, we headed to the World Trade Centre which is around 1km away. The World Trade Centre is another huge shopping centre spread over several levels. There is even an indoor ice-skating rink. However, the World Trade Centre seemed rather empty after the crowded MBK. The usual suspects like McDonald's and KFC are all to be found here too. We lingered around for some time as we still had some time to spare before catching our train. Thereafter, we walked along Thanon Ratchaprarop where there were many food stalls selling barbecued meat along the streets.

We took a tuk-tuk to the Hualamphong Train Station which was crowded with travelers. At around 7.45pm, we boarded the train and it moved out of Bangkok punctually at 8pm. Shortly after, our seats were converted to sleeping bunks and i took the upper deck which was rather comfortable and there are curtains that can be drawn for privacy and if you are afraid that you'll fall out bed, there're straps to prevent you from falling out. As it was night, there was nothing much to see and we decided to rest early to prepare for the day ahead.

Nong Khai Train Station

We arrived at Nong Khai station around 7am after an 11 hour journey. It is 624km from Bangkok and is the major crossing point to the Lao capital, Vientiane, via the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge over the Mekong (Lonely Planet: Southeast Asia on a Shoestring). The weather here is rather cool. Once we came off the train, we were besieged by many tuk-tuk drivers eager to bring us to the Thai-Lao border. However, we thought that we can only pay for the Lao Visa in US Dollars so we decided to head to the town of Nong Khai and change our money at the banks there. However, the bank didn't open till 9am so we had some time to spare. We decided to head for breakfast. Nong Khai as i briefly saw it, has a small town feel to it although it does have fast food restaurants. When the bank opened, we were told that it was alright to pay for our visa using Thai baht. Thus, we decided to head towards the border. Our driver was very persistent in getting us to process our visas at 'Visa Processing' shops near the border and finally we relented. It cost us 2000B ! Once we got our exit stamps from the Thai side, a bus took us all the way across the bridge to the Lao border where it took some time for our visa to be processed. Thereafter, we were in Laos. (Read the Laos travelogue for more information)

World Trade Center

The following day, we arrived back at the train station at around 4pm after walking from the Laos border and bought our tickets back to Bangkok. However we would only set off at 7pm which means we have time to spare again. Thus we sat down and read our Vientiane Times and Lonely Planet guide to pass the time. We had our dinner at one of the many food stalls just outside the train station. It was relatively inexpensive. We set off after dinner.

We arrived in Bangkok at around 7am and we set off towards Thanon Khao San. After enquiring at a few guesthouses, we settled for Chart Guesthouse which costs 300B per day for a double room with attached bathrooms but without air-con and hot water heaters. We decided to rest a while before exploring Bangkok. After our rest, we decided to head for Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn), a famous landmark of Bangkok. Besides i've just seen it featured a couple of days before on the Amazing Race. However, there was a guy who 'advised' us to take a tuk-tuk for 30B which would take us around the various Wats in Bangkok and finally drop us off at the pier where we'll take a ferry trip across the Chao Phraya River to the Temple of Dawn. Of course there was a catch. The catch was, we had to go down to this Gem Export Centre, Ploy Siam, where our driver would get his free gasoline coupon. However, since the price was so low, we decided to go along with it.

We were brought on a tour of various Wats which i've forgotten the name of and finally to Ploy Siam. From what we were told, it's supposed to work like this. We buy a set of jewelry and sell it back home for a higher price. It's supposed to be set up by the Thai government to encourage more visitors to Thailand as the difference in buying and selling price is supposed to pay for our trip here. And since we've made money, we are supposed to spread it to our friends by word-of-mouth and they will come to Thailand to make use of this 'wonderful' opportunity. However, a simple set of earrings already cost US$500. I was doubtful about the price it could fetch back home. Thus i would classify this under 'At Your Own Risk' if you do decide to try making a quick buck out of this.

Wat Arun

After Ploy Siam, we were brought to a pier just opposite Wat Arun. For just 2B, we would be ferried across the Chao Phraya River to the Temple of Dawn. There is an admission fee of 20B for the Temple of Dawn. There are Khmer-style towers decorated with ceramics and porcelain and we could climb halfway up them. It is indeed very beautifully constructed. It is open daily from 8.30am-5.30pm.

From the Wat Arun, we crossed the Chao Phraya River again where we decided to walk back to Thanon Khao San. Along the way, we passed by the Grand Palace. However, it was closed for the day. It was hard to peep in as it was enclosed by high walls all around.

Back at Khao San, we decided to pop down to a cybercafe to surf the internet for a while to check our emails. It costs only 1B per minute but you had to at least use it for 5 minutes. At night Khao San is transformed into a very happening place where there are many stalls selling fake apparels, food, etc at a low price. There are also henna tattoo stalls and stalls where you  could braid your hair. It is something like Ladies Market in Hong Kong where the action continues late into the night. Sure enough, even till around 1am, there are still many people around and the stalls remain open. This is also the place to hone your bargaining skills as not only can you bargain, you are expected to bargain.

Khao San Road

The next morning, if we had woken up earlier, we would have gone to the Damnoensaduak Floating Market but as it is, we decided to head down to Siam Square again to do some shopping. After breakfast, we started walking towards Siam Square. Along the way, we passed by the Democracy Monument which has four pillars surrounding a center sculpture. We also saw the City Parapet and Wat Saket from a distance. Wat Saket is even more beautiful at night when it is lit up by lights. It took us more than an hour before we finally reached MBK. We spent more than half a day walking around the area and we decided to head down to Patpong at around 4pm.

We took a sky train down to Patpong. When we reached there, it was early and they were just setting up their stalls. The night market would only open around 7pm thus we opted against staying put and decided to walk towards Chinatown, which is near the Hualamphong Train Station. It was another 1 hour walk along Rama IV Road. There wasn't anything much of interest along the road except for Wat Trimitr which looked beautiful from the outside but we didn't go in. We didn't see the open air market in Chinatown recommended in the Official Bangkok Map obtained for free from the airport, thus we headed back towards Khao San where we did basically the same thing as the day before.

Wat Arun admission ticket

Early the next morning, after breakfast, we waited for our minivan from Khao San area which would bring us to the airport for 50B per person. Yes, i know, the Lonely Planet warned against it. They even stated that passengers have been left stranded alongside the highway but it did bring us safely to our destination. At the airport, we were put on the waiting list as the flight was full. Luckily, we managed to get seats an hour before takeoff and this is the end of our Thailand trip in 2001.