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QUEENSLAND
Cairns Beautifully situated capitol of the tropical north and center for much that the region has to offer. Obviously the chief attraction is the Great barrier reef and there are any number of ways to enjoy it, but by far the best way is to take a scuba diving course with one of the major operators. Unfortunately the diving industry is no different to any other and Cairns has had its share of fly-by-night dive operations, but the two that stand out for the quality of their operations and for longevity are Deep Sea divers den and Pro-dive, two operators I have worked for. Both have their own boats, tried and true areas of the reef where they take their divers to, and good packages--Cairns can be very cutthroat with the price wars that habitually erupt, with the result that the visitor can often find packages that are ridiculously cheap. By the standards of most other places the packages are often so cheap for students that the prices, which usually includes a 2 or 3 day trip out to the reef, are often less than what would be on offer at some dreary shore-based location elsewhere - you're essentially getting the reef trip reef for nothing.
For those planning such a trip, a note. Diving education may have changed since I worked in Cairns, but the usual restriction for students in my day was that they were limited to 2 training dives per day (out of the usual requirement of four training dives). This makes a huge difference to a 2 or 3 day diving trip. On the first day of a 2-day trip you will manage just two training dives, then have to stay out of the water for the rest of the day, including the trip's night dive. The next day, if you manage to complete your remaining 2 training dives without a hitch, you'll just manage to get in your first unsupervised dive before it will be time for the boat to start heading back in to Cairns. Weigh they up against a 3 day trip, and the differences are quite marked. By the same point on the second day you will probably have another two dives during the day, and after an early evening meal you'll be back in the water to experience your first night dive. Next morning you'll manage three more dives before heading back to Cairns. The difference therefore is that the shorter trip gives you one solitary dive to spread your wings as a fully fledged open water diver, while the three day version gives you at least seven, including your fist night dive. Big difference, so if you can afford it, take the longer three day trip to the reef.
For those who want to see sharks in the area there are two ways you can go about it. On most of the reefs you generally tend to sight the odd white-tip reef shark, but amongst the reefs to the north of Cairns, where Divers Den directs its operations, is a small circular reef where they often teach their students. A couple of reef-tips seemed to make their home there and it gave the students a constant buzz to sit and watch whilst being circled by these curious sharks. If you're really feeling adventurous though there's a few operators out of Cairns and Port Douglas who offer trips out to the Coral sea, where they put on a spectacular show hand-feeding large sharks for your benefit! Not a job I would fancy! The trips are pricey but worth it if sharks in feeding frenzy are your thing. Alternatively you could take the cheaper route and go out on the aforementioned 2 - 3 day trips aboard a boat crewed by a deckhand with a moronic habit of throwing fish offal in the water whilst divers are below - I happened to be out with a friend who had just graduated as an open water diver, and as we returned we came upon half a dozen white-tip sharks in an absolute feeding frenzy below the boat. Don't know if the friend ever did any diving after that experience!
Another of the great diving experiences in the region is to dive amongst the potato cod near Lizard island. These fish are enormous yet are generally so docile and curious and used to divers that you can approach them quite easily.
Note--Amongst the reefs close to Cairns my personal favourite is Thetford, which unfortunately doesn't get visited that frequently by dive operators because of it's depth and hazardous anchoring - I was once aboard a boat where the skipper got the stern stuck on the coral and we consequently had to wait 6 hours until the tide lifted us off! The coral formations at Thetford are huge, with virtually all the types on display of enormous proportions, and the swim-throughs on offer are quite beautiful - one in particular I recall was akin to swimming through a vaulted cathedral, with shafts of light streaming down from the odd hole above.. The lower levels tend to be around 20--25 metres, so bottom time is a little limited.
Cape Tribulation To the north of Cairns is the magnificent rainforest region of the Daintree, one of the few places in the world where you can find rainforest giving out to beautiful sandy beaches by the ocean. It's truly a wonderful region and well worth the visit. I recall a lovely stroll through the forest, marveling at the canopy above, and coming across mysterious and intriguing sculptures seemingly in the middle of nowhere, which I eventually discovered were the product of a local sculptor. Eventually I broke through the greenery and found myself on a stunningly beautiful beach with the sea invitingly near - yet so unattainable, because of the danger of being stung by a sea-wasp.
Barron & Tully rivers Both of these rivers offer some spectacular white water rafting for the novice.
Karunda railway For a really scenic railway journey, try this. The trip winds its way up the hills past Barron falls.
Cape York To the north of Cairns is the great wilderness of Cape York, a region larger than all of Great Britain yet with a scattered population of only 15,000 hardy souls. For four wheel drive enthusiasts it's one of the great challenges, as it is for mountain bikers, but because of the heavy tropical rains and the countless rivers crossing the track the cape is largely inaccessible except for the winter months. If you have the time and money it is one of the greatest wilderness adventures Australia has to offer.
Fraser Island Jutting out for something like 90 miles at a right angle to the Queensland coast, Fraser is the world's largest sand island and would have been mined to oblivion had environmental groups not stopped the devastation. A four-wheel drive favourite amongst Australians, it used to be an isolated wonder enjoyed by a select few, but unfortunately in recent years it's become something of a nightmare with it's beachside tracks having turned into virtual highways with four wheel drive vehicles of all kinds cruising up and down. Because of the fragile nature of the environment there has been talk in recent years of restricting access to the area, but of course the tourist industry wants nothing to do with it. Nevertheless the island is a treasure with its never-ending beaches, forests, and intriguing and numerous fresh-water lakes. It's also home to a rare species of the dingo, even more reason to take care of the inroads tourism is making on the island - the animal is still considered vermin on the mainland and consequently is being driven to extinction there.
VICTORIA
The Great ocean road American's have scenic coastal wonders like Big Sur to drive through, Australia has Victoria's great ocean road, a spectacular roadway along the state's rugged southern coastline. Chief highlight are the twelve apostles, a series of rocky monoliths off shore which represent the remains of the coast's more ancient shoreline. There are numerous points along the drive which provide scenic points of interest and photographic opportunities, but the entire drive is a pure delight. Though it is much less direct than the usual route between Victoria and South Australia, the great ocean road is a must if you happen to be traveling in the region and have the time for a more leisurely drive.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Kangaroo island One of the jewels in Australia's crown, this island is unfortunately often neglected by time-challenged visitors from abroad with only a few weeks at their disposal. Though it requires at least a 3 day visit to do the place justice Kangaroo island is well worth the time, especially for the visitor interested in seeing Australia's much vaunted wildlife. It's one of the few places in the country where you can practically guarantee to see wild Koalas in abundance--in fact they reached such plague proportions on the island a few years ago (they were actually introduced to the island) that the government proposed a cull, which outraged the country to such an extent that the government backpedaled over the matter and financed a relocation program to the mainland instead. The island has its own breed of kangaroo, the only one with a thick shaggy coat to keep it warm in the winter months. If you're very patient, and highly observant, there are also pools on the island where the elusive Platypus can be sighted. Aside from the spectacular coastal scenery probably the two major attractions are the island's seal and penguin populations, either of which are easily worth the visit to the area. Beautiful island, wonderful coastal scenery, incredible Australian animals--what more could you ask?
Port Lincoln Feeling really, really adventurous? How about diving in South Australia's famous white-pointer waters to see these incredible creatures up close--REAL close? A number of operators, including Rodney Fox, who was famously mauled by a white-pointer years ago, offer dive trips that give you the opportunity to see one of these predators from the safety of a shark cage. The trips aren't terribly cheap, nor is there any guarantee of seeing one of the sharks, but if you want a hell of a thrill you'd have to go a lot further to find something as freaky as a white-pointer lunging at you from a few feet away!
TASMANIA
Franklin river The Franklin-below-Gordon in Tasmania is quite possibly Australia's single greatest contribution to the world's natural scenic wonders, an astonishing stretch of river in Tasmania's wilderness which leaves many visitors gasping for words to describe its beauty while others are left talking about it in hushed and reverential terms. It's astonishing to believe that the Tasmanian government came very, very close to damming up the entire region in its typically destructive and short-sighted manner, and it was only the concerted efforts of environmentalists, the media, world opinion and the intervention of the federal government that finally saved the Franklin. In fact the 1983 federal election was won partly on the guarantee by the party concerned that the Franklin would be preserved.
The perfect way to see the river of course is by rafting/kayaking, and there are numerous companies offering expeditions down the river - do yourself a favour and see it, the memories will remain with you the rest of your life.
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