The reef is good all the way around Bunaken, and the 6-kilometer-long island features no fewer than 13 dive sites. Bunaken is the centerpiece of the reserve, and with careful observation, on this one island you could probably see the majority of coral reef fishes found in Indonesia.

All the sites are similar in that they feature steep walls of coral, pocked with small caves, and buzzing with small and medium-sized reef fish. Good coral growth usually extends down to 40-50 meters, and in the deeper parts of the wall one can see sharks, large rays and Napoleon wrasse. The current is usually gentle, perfect for a slow drift along the face of the wall, although it can occasional come up in the afternoon.

Lekuan I, II and III. The most frequented site on Bunaken is a three-pronged coral wall in front of Lekuan Beach. Here your chances are very good of seeing Napoleon wrasse, turtle, bumphead parrotfish, scorpionfish and lionfish, and on the reef edge, swarms of anthias.

The Lekuan sites offer little current and clear water, and are perfect for beginners. They a popular for night dives as well.

Here-and everywhere else in the Manado Bay area-watch out for the stinging hydroid Aglaophenia. This "sea nettle" looks like a pinkish or brownish fern, and when brushed unprotected skin causes a burning sensation.

Kampung Bunaken. This site, in front of Kampung ("Village") Bunaken on the island’s southeastern tip, offers much the same underwater scenery as the Lekuan sites. However, the shallow reef flat here has suffered the most damage of any around the island, thanks to its proximity to the village.

Bunaken Timur. The two sites called "East Bunaken," barely separated from each other, feature a more sloping profile than the sites on the south and west of the island. Here we discovered turtles, Napoleon wrasse, and some sleeping reef whitetip sharks.

Sachiko's Point. Named after a Japanese tour leader, this steep wall is prowled by big fish, including large tuna, and turtles. The soft coral growth here is particularly good, and there are nice caves around 30 meters. The current is often quite strong at Sachiko's Point.

Mike's Point. Named for photographer Mike Severns (whose work appears in these pages), the profile here features wall and a pinnacle. The coral growth-including large, showy gorgonians-is very good. This site is particularly rewarding at depths of 30 meters or more. The point is sometimes swept by strong currents, and one can occasionally see sharks, and large schools of jacks. Pelagic visitors such as yellowtail tuna also call on Mike’s Point.

Raymond. This is a wall, with good hard and soft coral growth and some nice whip corals. Fish life is good, including Napoleon wrasse. Colubrine sea snakes are particularly common here, both on the reef flats and in the reef itself. Laticauda colubrina is sometimes called the amphibious sea snake, and it spends more time ashore than most of its brethren. Although not aggressive, the snakes are poisonous and should not be harassed, although the guides and crew members often round one or two up for photographs. Strong "gusts" of current can sometimes be felt here, both horizontal and vertical. Don’t panic, just hang onto the coral rock necessary until it passes.

Tengah. This site, which means "middle" or "midway," about in the middle of Bunaken’s western reef face. This spot and nearby Mandolin are known for large schools of yellowtail fusiliers. One can also see an occasional turtle or shark here.

Mandolin. Just south of Tengah, this site also offers schooling fusiliers, and good coral growth. The wall here is best at depths of 30-35 meters.

Fukui Point. This site, also called Stingray Point, has a stepped profile: the reef top is at 2-4 meters, and then slopes down with several short, but steep, drops. It is known for its rays, of course, as well as turtles, barracuda and a couple of good sized Tridacna clams.

Cela-Cela. This site, in the crook of the reef along the south face, offers many of the same charms as the popular Lekuan sites. Good coral growth and fish, and mild currents.