Cutting Diagrams
 A sideless surcote from this pattern has a smoother flow. It works especially well on heavier weight fabrics. |
. |  This pattern works better on fabrics with a one way design |
 This diagram shows only one half of a dress. It can be made from fabric as narrow as 12 inches. You must have a meausrement for "B" that is 12 inches or less to make this pattern work. |
. |  This diagram will work on narrow fabrics at least 24 inches wide. You must have a meausrement for "B" that is 12 inches or less to make this pattern work. |
A = measurement from top of shoulder to floor + shoulder seam allowance + hem (bottom)
B = measurement from shoulder to shoulder + hem x2 (for both sides)
C = measurement from high waist to floor + hem x2 (top and bottom)
Amount of fabric needed:
When purchasing fabric, make sure to buy a little more than you need and wash it a couple of times before cutting it to reduce the chance of your finished dress fading onto other clothing or shrinking. For 45" or wider widths, twice the length of measurement -A- (plus 1/4 yd for shrinkage)
If you use the cutting diagrams for smaller width fabrics, it depends on your measurements, so you will have to do the math.(sorry)
Approximate measurements
These are the measurements I use for my own sideless surcotes. Keep in mind that I am 5’3” . Because of the cut and fit of this dress, the height is more important than the waist or hip measurements. When fitting the sides, moving them up just one inch can add as much as 6 inches to the waist and 12 inches to the hip.
I start with 4 yards of 45 inch wide fabric.
2) Cut out neck hole (Make this small - just enough to get it over your head. You can always make it larger later, but you will not be able to make it smaller.Try it on and adjust as needed.
3) If you have straight, broad shoulders you may not have to slope the angle on the top of the body panel. If it puffs up at the top of the shoulder you need to adjust it, put the dress on inside out and pin it to match the curve of your body from neck to shoulder. Sew.
4)Sew side pieces together with a bias (diagonal cut) edge against a straight edge.
Match the top edges. The slanted (bias) cut will be slightly longer. It will also have a tendancy to stretch so be careful not to pull on it. Sewing the bias edge to a strait cut edge stabilizes the seam so it won't stretch out of shape once it is sewn. You will have to trim the bottom edges into shape later.
5) Repeat step 3 with remaining side pieces.
6) PREFERRED METHOD-Pin the sides to the front/back piece starting at the bottom edge and work to the top. This will give you the widest bottom possible for your dress. ALTERNATE METHOD-Put on the front/back piece and stand in front of a mirror. Pin the sides on at a height you like - trim bottom edge of fabric.
7) Sew sides to front/back.
8) Try on your dress again. Use a piece of chalk to mark the shape of the front of the dress and around the sides. The placement and shape of these lines are completely at your discretion. The front can be a rectangle as wide as your shoulders or as narrow as 3 inches. The sides range from straight edges (just as you’ve placed the fabric) to an overly exaggerated curve to the thigh. The most common sideless surcotes were gently curved from shoulder to waist (about 1-2 inches into the front), curved downward to the hips and upwards again to form a U shape on the side.
9)Finish the neck and side edges with bias tape. Yes, it's a period technique :-)
10)Trim off any uneven places on the bottom edge and hem as usual. You may feel more comfortable letting someone else help you mark the hemline to make it hang evenly.
It is very hard to make this garment incorrectly. There are many variations of sideless surcotes in period manuscripts, not to mention the ones that are not recorded. Not all variations are going to look good on everyone. You may end up making the dress correctly, but it just looks awful on you. These things can and do happen. In the Modern Middle Ages we tend to think of things a bit differently than in the real Middle Ages. If we don’t have enough fabric on hand to make a garment exactly as the directions tell us, we run to the closest fabric store and purchase what we need. In the Middle ages, they would often adjust the pattern to fit the fabric they had on hand. If they made a garment that was too short, they wouldn’t stick it in the back of the closet or throw it out. They would just add another piece of non matching fabric or fur to the bottom. Just think, What would your persona have done?
If you are unfamiliar with using bias tape, all you need to do is sew it onto the edge of your garment - right sides together - sew on the fold line. Turn the bias tape to the back. Fold down the loose edge and pin into place, stretching the bias tape around the curves. Sew. The directions are usually on the package - complete with tips and diagrams.
