"Trip-report (Kume Jima - May 2004)
Dave and Toyoko Law

As you know, the typhoon held to a NE course 140 miles east of Kume Jima, which made it a worry instead of a threat to our visit. 0745 flight over on Thursday the 21st and 1830 return on Friday the 22nd gave us 2 full days.

Tak met us at the airport and, happily, we were nearly joined at the hip for the duration. We can't thank him enough and can only hope that we or others can repay the kindness and generosity he has shown us. He literally took care of our every need.

Stopping at the AF Dock on the way, we checked into the Hotel Nikko Kume Island on Ifu Beach (Eef Beach) and settled in while Tak took care of a few things. Other than the sign fading more and more, the dock is the same as your posted pics.

At the hotel, we were surprised to have a "gaijin" (foreigner) Houseman (Bell Hop). From Arizona, it seems he once visited Kume, fell in love ( "with the Island" he says) and returned to stay. Nice young man and speaks fluent Japanese.

Soon we were off to see some sights and on to the KNCC to meet the folks and see the exhibit. Had coffee with Mr. Uezo and Miyuki and visited. Wonderful folks. (pic 85) Miyuki and Tak then took us through the Exhibit. It is impressive! Congratulations to all concerned. Very well done (although I am not too sure that the 3'x 4' photo of one "John London" was part of the original showing :o) (pics 89 & 90)

The second hall exhibit about the Japanese military and the sad story it tells is also impressive. We both enjoyed the other Kume Jima cultural and natural exhibits, finding them very interesting. (pic 92) It all ended way too soon and before we knew it, we had said goodbye and left.

We did not completely avoid the typhoon. As it passed about 140 miles east of Kume, we got some periodic heavy rain and the seas were up. (pic 94) We returned to Ifu Beach for lunch. Neat restaurant up the road from the hotel with super Kume Jima O-soba (noodles) Mmmmm! (pic 96) Then it was off to our 1400 appointment with the Radar Bsse Commander.

John! I can't imagine landing on this runway! (pic 108), but photo evidence proved that some of you did it when it was even more primitive! And so we arrived at the Radar Base. (pic 100) We did not visit Ops or the billets, which is OK, as I had not worked or lived in either. We did have tea with the Commander, LTC Sahara. He and I discussed operations similarities in general, both then and now. "Vector 270, Buster Angels two niner" and "Judy" are still familiar terms to modern air defenders. (pic 98) They still maintain the capability to do things the "old way" (manual backup). After our visit with LTC Sahara, Mr. Agare, who coordinated our visit, took us around the base (they use "Base" as opposed to "Station" or "Site") Thank you, Agare-San! (pic 106)

After departing the base, Tak took us to his favorite little beach, Ara Hama, on the southwest side of the southernmost "point" of the Island. Sea turtles lay their eggs on this quiet, shell strewn beach. (pic 110). We then visited the famous "Tatami-ishi" beach with its tortoise shell shaped stones on tiny Okudaki Jima (Oe Jima). Your photos are better than any I took. That special place is in danger of being buried under encroaching sand. Seems that someone in the government has too much money and for whatever reason has built a wide stone stairway across much of the shore adjacent to the rocks. (like a sea wall) These stairs prevent the natural movement of sands over the area by tidal action. I could see that much of this unique and important rock formation is being covered by trapped sand. Tak says there is a battle going on to save the beach.

Back at the hotel, we had the evening free, but a steady rain limited our roaming about. Sent postcards and gift shopped. We did have a nice dinner at a second ethnic restaurant near where we had eaten lunch. Highlighted map of locations available upon request, cause I don't read, nor can I write Japanese :o)

After a good breakfast and long stroll on and around Ifu Beach, we met up with Tak to start the day's touring. I have to say, it really saddens us to see the litter along the beaches and streets on Kume Jima. We know it is common throughout Japan and on Okinawa (try and find a garbage can!), but to see it on beaches, boasted about and reserved by resort hotels and tourist centers, is really sad. There must have been a dozen young men and women around the hotel that were involved in "sports" activities ( there were 4 Beach Boys on the beach itself) that could have spent a few minutes each day keeping the beach (and the bushes along it) free of garbage and waste! Shame on you!

Anyway, the first place we visited that morning was the old house with the 300 year old Sotetsu plant. (pic 120) I was amazed, because the oldest ones I ever saw on Okinawa might have been 50-80 years old. The branches are as long as Toyoko is tall. We also saw the caves located behind it where residents hid during WWII. (pic 123).

We visited the Kume silk textile factory where we toured the exhibit room and the actual weaving shops. They still grow Mulberry trees for the leaves that silkworms eat and continue silkworm production on Kume Jima, though much of it is now imported from SE Asia. All silk thread on Kume is still spun, dyed, and woven by hand, using all natural materials. The full process was explained. Each design is registered to the creator and each piece of textile is woven by one person, from beginning to end, and that persons name is placed on it. One broken thread requires the piece to be started all over again! Could not resist buying shirts there. Beautiful and skilled craftsmanship. Brochure (in Japanese) can be copied if wanted. The director of the Exhibit facility is a noted Sanshin (samisen) musician. A tip: Shop 100 Yen stores on Okinawa for Okinawan folk music - about $2 each for CD's!

Next up; Uegusuku Castle. Looked back at Ifu Beach (pic 126) and Okudake Jima (pic 127) on the way up. Noted another great government spending blunder. They are building a new highway up the mountain, most of which will be suspended on giant "T" shaped piers sticking up into the air. Both ugly and (according to Tak) unnecessary. We found the castle and it's history of great interest and we applaud the efforts being taken to restore it. Again, your website pics are better than anything I have to share. Tak and gang have done a great job, but still have a long way to go. They have a huge pile of stone dumped near the parking area that will be used once they decide on the next phase of restoration. Like all the stone that has already been implaced, these will have to be lugged up to the top by hand. I suggested they put up a sign asking each visitor to do his/her share in helping to restore this important cultural site by carrying at least one stone with them when they go up. Unfortunately, I got the idea on my way back down :o) I purposely waited until we had gotten to the top to give Tak a 623rd AC&W Assn baseball cap, so that our old Radar site would be visible in the background. It is a small gesture to show our appreciation for his contibutions. He was extremely pleased to receive it and wore it proudly from that moment on. (pic 134) FYI: Hopefully Tak will send a better pic, I forgot to set the flash against the backlight. None of the pics are of the quality I had hoped for, but I am new to digi cameras and was trying to get the pic size (kb/mb) down by using VGA setting so I could email them. 4.0 mpix are huge and I had trouble emailing 2.0 mpix. I have some film being processed and hopefully I can send a few better prints (also awaiting Tak's pics).

Leaving the castle and the mountain and heading for a break at the only remaining Kume pinapple field, we passed by the village water wells some Bard once called the "Laundromat" (pic 139). No longer in use, they are being preserved. While there, a car stopped and a gentleman came down to the wells to fill his water bottle. We talked with him and he assured us of the clean quality of the water. We tasted and found it excellent. The gentleman told us that his own grandfather had carved the engravings on the inner walls of the enclosure (pic 141) and that the family had been drawing water there for generations. We attempted to get his name and asked to take his picture by the engravings, but he declined, saying it embarrassed him.

OK, I blew it somewhere. We also visited the remains of the 500 year old government building in a village near the old Sotetsu plant Friday morning and I seem to have misplaced lunch on Friday. I remember the lunch quite well, but was it before the wells or after the wells? Now I'm think after the wells but before the Silk factory.

Well, anyway, like it matters, - we did have lunch back at Ifu Beach after checking out of our hotel. This time we went to a small place a bit down the beachside street from the other two. As is usual on Kume, Tak was well known there and we were introduced to the owner/cook and his wife/waitress. And, as is usual, they were really nice folks. I was wanting something light, so Tak suggested the fried rice on the menu. Turns out it is the now famous, "Yaki Gohan", created exclusively for one John London in 2003 and it is now a regular on the menu. I believe they are going to change the menu to read "KG's Yaki Gohan" :o) It was excellent and thank you very much, KG!

And THEN, we went to the silk textile factory. Anyway, we next stopped for a taste of fresh Kume pineapple at the last remaining pineapple field on Kume! Oh, it was cold and sooooo goooood! "I'll buy a box to take back with me", says I. "You just ate the last ones", says she. But she called (on her cell phone)to her husband out in the field to see if he could find any for us. "Sorry, off season and slim pickins right now", says he! Nice people (more friends of Tak) and we had a nice visit at her stand. Directly below the backside of the Radar base, it is a regular tourist stop now, and offers fresh juice, etc. Like the rice fields, the pineapples have given way to sugar cane as a cash crop.

Then it was on to see the remains of Gushikawa castle and the "Female' rock formation at the other end of the beach below it. (pic 148) We had seen the "Male" rock formation, Garasaa Mui. We spent some time at the 300 year old Uezu House, getting the full story from our guide. (pic 152) Granerie (Rice Storage pic 154) Outhouse and Pig pens - in the old days the pigs ate the feces. (pic 155). Kitchen with utinsels (pic 159). We rounded out the trip with a stop at the 300 year old Ryukyu Pine (pic 163). Tak was also going to Naha and had his bag in the trunk so we went to the airport for our return flight together.

All and all it was a great trip and a wonderful experience which we will not forget. We can fully appreciate why so many of you want to "Go Back" at least once. Unlike Okinawa, the changes just don't seem to be as significant or overwhelming. Kume maintains the charm and the pace of life that so many of us remember.

Our chapter did not fully end until the Sunday before our departure. Toyoko and I, along with our daughter, son-in-law and grandson had a goodbye lunch with Tak and his lovely fiance', Lisa, in Naha. (pic 212) They are a swell couple and we wish them every happiness. My family had met and dined with them last year and wanted to take the opportunity to say Sayonara, for they too are leaving Okinawa in June for a new assignment. We will all remain fast friends for many years to come.

Dave and Toyoko Law
[KG]