Before anything else, let me make the purpose of both this, and the original version of the Executioner Box crystal clear, (Since there seems to have been some confusion about it). The Executioner Box I and II was NOT designed or intended for the purposes of being connected to phones, phone lines, and all other CPE (Customer Premise Equipment) and left turned on/unattended. Both versions of the Executioner Box are meant for the purposes of frying phones, modems, CID (Caller ID) units, fax machines, answering machines, and all other telecom devices connected to any given phone line, NOT people! To acheive this, you only need to keep the Executioner Box I or II plugged in/turned on for a few moments. NOT 3 mins, or anything like that! Please be fully aware of the dangerous nature of the Executioner Box I and II. ESPECIALLY when the Executioner Box I or II is misused! Speaking of which, I will NOT be held responsible for the blatant misuse of the Executioner Box I or II. Do not operate while under the influence of alcohol, sleep aids and other narcotics, or wanton stupidity. Hopefully, this lengthy (and perhaps all-inclusive) disclaimer has routed out all potential ignorance. It should also be noted that unless you isolate the subscriber line by disconnecting the person's inside wiring from the telephone network at the TNI (Telephone Network Interface) box, the over-voltage/current surge can do damage to telecom equipment back at the CO (Central Office). To disconnect the line from the phone network with newer model TNI boxes, plug a working phone into the test jack on the customer side (left side) of the TNI box. With older model TNI boxes, remove the plug from the short, black colored line cord from the test jack. To locate where the TNI box is, look for a grayish colored rectangular shaped box on an outside wall of a building. And yes, it will say "Telephone Network Interface", or maybe some slight variation of that on it. Some TNI boxes even have the telephone company's name on it. But, some TNI boxes are placed too high up on a wall of some buildings to be able to be reached easily. Also, you're going to need either a standard Phillips or flat head screwdriver to open the customer side of a TNI box, or you'll need a 3/8" hex nutdriver to open the entire TNI box through the telco access side. If there's a padlock on the TNI box, you'll have to open the TNI box from the telco access side, since that sort of "bypasses" the padlock. However, some buildings may not have a TNI box at all in the first place. The basic, overall principal behind Executioner Box II remains EXACTLY the same as for the first version of the Executioner Box; And that's to send more voltage/current than the phones and all other phone equipment is able to safely handle, thereby "frying" all phones and phone equipment connected to a given phone line. For comparison sake, the highest normal voltage on a phone line is during when a phone is ringing. (85-90 Volts AC, depending on how far you live from your central office). Also, the ringing AC voltage for phone lines is about 20Hz (cycles), where as a standard electrical outlet in a house has between 110-120VAC (Volts AC) at around 60Hz. The more phones and phone equipment there is connected to a given phone line, the more ringing power (voltage/current) is needed to make all the phones ring. Because, of course, all phones/phone equipment draw power from the phone line. Anyway, here are the differences between the 1st and 2nd versions of the Executioner Box...

    * On/off cord switch
    * More compact design (..of surface mount phone jack used in this) 

Plus, I'll give more alternative ways to build this box. Let me point out however that the more compact design of the phone jack used for Executioner Box II only allows for the ability to fry phones and phone equipment on up to 2 lines at once, as compared to up to 3 lines at once for the original Executioner Box. To use Executioner Box II on up to 3 lines at once, substitute the Radio Shack RJ25 (3-line) surface mount jack used in Executioner Box I instead of using the 2 line surface mount jack mentioned here. Here's what you'll need to make this box...

    * Wire cutters (The Radio Shack nippy cutters are great, but not madatory)
    * Wire stripper
    * AC lamp cord (It has a twistable on/off switch built into the cord
    * Small, surface mount phone jack (This can be bought at Home Depot under the RCA brand name, or from K-mart under the Southwestern Bell brand name for about $3 +tax) 

The wire cutters/stripper can be bought at Radio Shack. A variety of different types are availible, and no one particular type is mandatory to buy for this project. Any type should do. As for the AC lamp cord, you could simply cut one off an old lamp that either doesn't work, or you don't plan on using anymore. Just as long as the AC cord is good, and the on/off switch on the cord works, It's alright to use for building this box. If you don't have an old lamp with a on/off switch on the cord, you might find an old lamp for cheap at a garage sale, yard sale, flea market, 2nd hand store, or perhaps even some junk shop. But, if you want to buy an AC lamp cord you can be sure is in good working order, you can buy one for $3.98 +tax at Home Depot stores. You'll have to cut the light bulb socket off the end of the AC cord before it can be used for making this box. Also, it should be mentioned that actually ANY working AC power cord can be used for building Executioner Box II. But, with a lamp cord, you have the ability to turn the power on/off more quickly and easily. (Which, of course, can be pretty important with Executioner Box I and II). If, however, you don't mind using an AC cord without a built-in on/off switch, you may want to buy an electric shaver cord. Since electric shaver cords are coiled, it prevents cord tangles, which is helpful if you need to disconnect everything and pack up in a hurry. If you can solder, and own a soldering iron, and solder, it might be possible to solder up (add) a small SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) on/off switch. Having some rosin flux solder paste would help, too. (It makes soldered joints stronger). To do this, you would also need to make a hole big enough somewhere in the phone jack's chasis to put in the on/off switch. And, with both the AC cord's wire leads, and the 4 phone wires inside the fairly small confines of the phone jack, it makes adding your own on/off switch all the more difficult. Of course, if you'd rather, you can actually use any size 1 piece, self contained, surface mount phone jack for making this box. ("Self contained" means the screw terminals (42A block) and phone jack are built together in 1 piece, the back half, and the outer cover attaches over it). If you still want to try adding your own switch into the phone jack chasis, and building Executioner Box II in that way, just make sure to buy an SPST switch that supports enough amperage (current). Look on the switch's package to find out the voltage/current ratings. Smaller switches tend to support less current. Running more voltage or current into a switch above the voltage/current ratings is risky. The same holds true for all electronic components. It's possible to use foreign standard (220-240 Volts AC) with Executioner Box IIif you buy the 40 watt step-up voltage converter, (Part# 273-1411 for about $33 +tax) and the foreign adapter travel kit, (Part# 273-1407 for about $12 +tax) both from Radio Shack. But remember, the more voltage/current is used when running this box, the more dangerous it gets. Besides, I happen to know fact from testing the Executioner Box I that 110-120 Volts AC is enough to do job of frying phones and phone equipment. In other words, using 220-240 Volts AC is not a must.
Construction

First, remove the outer cover from the surface mount phone jack. Then, take the AC cord and cut about 5-6 feet of it (or desired length) using wire cutters, or a wire cutter/stripper. If you use an AC extension cord for making this box, you obviously want the plug at one end, then 5-6Ft. of cord afterward. (So, cut the extension outlets off the other end). Now, using the wire cutters, carefully cut a small notch up the center between the 2 wires on the AC cord. (The Radio Shack nippy cutters with their small size are good for this job). After cutting the small notch, grab each half of the AC cord, and very slowly and carefully pull apart the 2 wires on the cord a bit more. Give yourself maybe about 4-5 inches length of each of the 2 wire leads. Now that you have each insulated wire seperated at the end of the cord, you'll need to strip the insulation off each insulated wire lead at the ends. Carefully strip off about an inch or so of insulation on each wire end. If you have solder and soldering iron, you can also "tin the tips" of the AC cord wire leads after they've been stripped, if you so desire. Otherwise, you may want to simply twist the copper strands of the wire together with your fingers, to make the wire leads easier to work with. Now, take the screwdriver and loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the yellow and black wires. Also loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the red and green wires. Attach the yellow wire to the same screw holding the red wire. After that, attach the black wire to the screw holding the green wire in the same manner. If you want, you can now remove the other 2 screws now that no wires are no longer attached to those screws. Note: if you have 6 wires (Red, green, yellow, black, blue, and white) you're using a 3-line jack. For a 3 line jack, take the screwdriver and loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the blue, white, yellow, and black wires. Also loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the red and green wires. Attach the blue and yellow wires under the same screw holding the red wire. You can attach it underneath the 2 washers on the screw just like red wire is attached, or attach it any other way. After you're done with that, attach the white and black wires to the screw holding the green wire in the same manner. If you want, you can now remove the other 4 screws now hat no wires are no longer attached to those screws. Now, attach one of the stripped wire ends from the AC cord to one of the screws holding the phone wires, making sure to wrap it clockwise firmly around the screw under the screw's head. Then, tighten that screw down using the screwdriver. Repeat the process with the other stripped wire end from the AC cord, attaching it to the other screw, and tightening the screw down. Run the AC cord through the opening in the side of the jack, snap the phone jack's outer cover back on, and you're done. By the way, there's no need to worry about correct polarity (Ring/Negative, Tip/Positive) when hooking up the wire leads of the AC cord to the screws since the voltage you'll be using is AC, (Alternating Current) which repeatedly and constantly changes direction of current flow. Only DC (Direct Current) has only 1 proper current flow direction. Executioner Box I or II can also be hooked up to any corded phone if you modify a handset cord by cutting off the handset cord plug on one end of the handset cord, and crimping on a line cord plug at that same end. Then, simply disconnect the existing handset cord from the handset cord jack in the base of the phone you'll be connecting up Executioner Box I or II to, connect the line cord plug end of the modified handset cord into the surface mount jack on Executioner Box I or II, and connect the other handset cord plug end into the handset cord jack on the phone's base. Details of how to modify a handset cord in this way can be found in my "Conversion box" file. And, since the basic concept behind that was essentially taken from my Bungee box, that could also be used for reference, too. But, the thing is, if you connect the Executioner Box I or II directly to a phone in this way, you'll also ruin that phone. Even so, I just wanted you to know it was possible to connect up Executioner Box I or II in this way. Anyway, on to how to use this.
Usage

If you're going to use this at someone's TNI, (Network Interface) you'll need a portable source of AC voltage, like a portable generator. Most portable generators are quite noisy, because they use moving parts like a motor to serve as the alternator for generating the necessary AC voltage/current. So, you'll want to get a portable generator that uses a battery for power, and runs quiet. Last I seen, Radio Shack sold a portable generator called PortaWattz that operated on a 12v battery, could handle up to 300 Watts, and had an AC output of 115VAC. Which is perfect. You'll want a generator that can put out between 110-120VAC. But, this Radio Shack generator is only availible through Radio Shack Unlimited (Comapny direct sales) last time I checked. So, you won't find it in Radio Shack stores. And, at $149.99 +tax (as listed in their 2001 catalog) It's quite expensive. It might be possible to connect up a power inverter to a 12 volt DC battery, and generate AC voltage that way, but as of this writing I have yet to try it, so I won't make any guarantees that that'll work. But otherwise, without a portable AC power source, you'd only be able to use the Executioner box wherever you have access to an AC electrical outlet. At any rate, whether using it at a TNI, or at a standard phone jack, the basic principal remains the same. Connect up a modular line cord to the Executioner box that's connected to a working phone jack. Plug the AC power cord into a working AC outlet (turn it on if you're using a lamp cord with an on/off switch), and within a moment or so, you'll fry the internal electronic components of all phones, and phone equipment attached to the phone line in the house. Needless to say, this is obviously a box you only want to use on your enemies. Also, I definitely suggest you either turn off or unplug Executioner box II before very long, as leaving it plugged in/turned on for long periods of time could run the risk of starting a fire. Phones and all phone equipment simply aren't meant to handle this kind of voltage and current. Also, phone voltage is typically DC (Except when ringing). Speaking of that, when you connect up Executioner box II, it will make all phones on the line ring. Even if they're off the hook. Anyway, let's get back to the topic of using the Executioner Box II at a TNI. Simply open the TNI on the customer access side. (You could open the whole TNI through the Telco Access side, but It's not necessary). Remove the plug of the short line cord from the test jack. It would be the one with wires running into the house attached to the 2 screw terminals alongside the test jack. (Unused test jacks don't have connection to the phone wiring from the house). After unplugging the cord from the test jack, connect it to Executioner box II. With newer model TNI boxes (which have no short line cord plugged into the test jack), you've got to plug in a working phone into the test jack, then connect up the Executioner Box II via a line cord modified alligator clips. And, attach the alligator clips to the ends of the wire leads of the phone line running into the house. If need be, you can unscrew those wire leads from the 2 screw terminals they're connected to inside the TNI box. Now, turn on the power for the generator, and turn the AC cord's on/off switch on (if you built this box with that kind of cord) for a brief moment or so, then turn it off. Quickly unplug the line cord from Executioner box II, and plug it back into the test jack where it was. Close up the TNI, pack up all your stuff, and get the hell out of there, FAST! One final note: It's not a good idea to connect up the Executioner box and use it inside your house, or anyone else's, since the voltage surge could travel all the way back to your local CO (Central Office) and cause problems for other area phone lines. Remember, this box is dangerous with a capital "D"! So, exercising caution when using it is definitely the best way to go. And, you may want to have some one come along with you to serve as "look out". If you want to test the effects of this box on only 1 phone that you don't need anymore, just connect a phone line cord between Executioner box II and the phone. Plug in the AC cord into an AC outlet (turn the AC cord switch on, if you've built this using a lamp cord) for a brief moment or so, then unplug the AC cord (or turn the cord switch off). Congrats! Another phone rendered totally dead and useless. Again, be careful and intelligent about how, when and where you use this box, and have phun.