This article appeared in the Jan. 15, 2004 Jewish Advocate.

Pizzapalooza extravaganza

By Susie Davidson

Advocate Correspondent

Innovative restauranteur Stephen Yanoff has taken a good thing and made it better once again with his Pizzapalooza venture. In November, he opened a second alternative-pizza mecca at 479 Harvard St. in the JFK Crossing area of Brookline (the original is at 244 Needham St. in Newton).

His variations on the basic humble pie may top any of his prior culinary accomplishments, no easy feat given Yanoff’s impressive local resume. Owner of The Crossings Restaurants in Lincoln and Wellesley and Boston’s Hi-Spot Restaurants in the 1980s, Yanoff was a Training Manager, General Manager and District Area Manager at Bertucci’s from 1990 to 1998, Director of Café Development and Nutrition for the Wellbridge Company, Associate Director of Restaurant Operations for Boston College and, most recently, Operations Manager for longtime foodie pal Joey Crugnale at the Naked Fish Restaurants.

On a street where The Upper Crust, Café Eilat and even Pizza Uno produce their own savory offerings, Yanoff’s 18 old-world "Palooza Style" pizzas, with roasted plum tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella cheese, or varied other Italian-style cheeses, his nine “Traditional” pies, with a smoother tomato sauce and shredded mozzarella cheese, “Cheeseless” varieties, with fresh sliced tomatoes and no sauce, make their own distinctive mark.

How distinctive? Yanoff’s Palooza pies, modeled after Italian versions from Naples, Tuscany and Campania, are all rectangular, and are made with fresh ingredients and extra virgin olive oil. The Napoletana “1760” has roasted tomatoes, garlic and oregano. The Quattro formaggi features mozzarella, shredded parmigiano reggino, goat cheese and ricotta; the gorgonzola and onion boasts caramelized onions, crumbled gorgonzola, sun dried tomatoes, garlic and oregano. The Florentine’s spinach, ricotta, and carmelized onions are topped with freshly-grated Pecorino Romano; the Melanzana holds roasted tomatoes, eggplant, and basil. Pizza Di Patate offers sliced potatoes, red onions, and rosemary. Additional toppings are available, and six panini palooza sandwiches, take-along "Palooza Cruiser," named after five Italian sport cars, calzones, soups and varied salads are also on the bill.

“It’s the combinations and the freshness that set us apart,” said Yanoff, who stresses the healthfulness of his all-natural fare, which he aspires to market nationally as a franchise. His patented “box cover” is yet another exclusive. "The front of it really opens as a book, and it tells the story of Pizzapalooza. On the under-side of it we created some “feet,” which keep the pie off of the table so it doesn't get wet, as it helps the air circulate and keep the crust nice and crisp."

Yanoff, who holds a degree in Hotel and Restaurant Administration from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, grew up in Milton in the 1960s in an actively Judaic environment. His father was a founding member of Bnai Jacob, a small Orthodox Congregation, along with his close friend, Rabbi Nathan Korff.

“I remember Rabbi Korff and his son teaching me my Bar Mitzvah lessons by candlelight at their home on Friday nights,” he recalled. “Though not a practicing Orthodox, I still visit, support and pray at the Milton synagogue and celebrate High Holidays with the Grand Rabbi Y.A. Korff at his Shul in Newton,” he said.

Yanoff resides in Wayland with his wife, Elyse, and their two children Harley and Gabriel. Despite his grueling schedule, all are active in the BJEP program at Brandies University. “We regularly attend services there and participate in their Sunday school activities,” he said.

Pizzapalooza items are available for carryout or pick-up; customers can order by fax, email or phone. Delivery is free with a $15 order. For information, call 617-264-4401 or 617-332-4401, email pizzapalooza@yahoo.com, or visit www.pizzapalooza.net.