Located in a gray and decrepit suburb of Tokyo where the destitute line up the streets with their sleeping bags and thin blankets in the evening, Hotel Juyoh is, in the words of its website, "only a 7 or 8 minute walk away from Minami Senju Station." That wasn't quite what you were expecting? Well, it is also a two-bus stop ride away from the same station, so there.

This is an extremely popular (in that it is well frequented) stay-over point for many a low-budget traveler, both local and foreign, for its unbeatable rates (Y2,700/night) if nothing else. For precious little else there is. For that price a 3-tatami mat bedroom, living room, balcony and veranda all rolled into one are yours, yours, and only yours for the night. Probably because no one else would be able to fit in. And do make it a point to wear a helmet whenever you must pass through the door.

There are toilets (what a relief!) and sinks with running water on every level in addition to a common bath on the top floor. Just be careful, as the hot water running from the relevant tap is really hot! However there is only one shower cubicle (albeit a generously assembled one) for each sex in the entire hotel, and you have to pay for a bath towel, though one suspects the proprietor probably has his own deluxe suite tucked away somewhere in the compact 10-storey building.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed my stay nonetheless. The thin mattress feels so soft and comfortable against the tatami mat and the sandbag pillow locks your weary head firmly in place to prevent neck aches and probably enhances your blood circulation as well. The retro air-conditioner placed strategically right in front of the mattress ensures a comfortable sleep, but do remember to cover up your toes well if you don't want to wake up with frostbite in the summer.

But the main attraction of this hotel is undoubtedly the two computers with internet access in the lobby. At least that is what I assume for the Japanese girl found glued to the desktop whenever I walk by. One is even an i-Mac as well. From this station guests can send e-mail to reassure their family that they have not ended up as bear food yet and to check up on the latest football news. McClaren to manage Leeds? David May for Real Madrid? There is also a team poster of some visiting Swedish football team and the club pennant, along with photographs of English Wellington F.C fans staying during the World Cup framed on the lobby wall.

If you venture outside the hotel you will find a convenience store right next to it, and you'll probably have noticed the 7-11 along your way from the station as well. There are also convenience stores in the market area where you can find absolutely any toiletry item that you need, plus a seedy shack-like drinking bar for the locals with only long tables and beer bottles inside.

In such a warm neighborly setting, it is only a matter of time before the soothing ambulance sirens blaring through the night with clockwork precision lures you to sleep. Tomorrow is another day =)

Nikko

I remembered it being safe, dark and comforting when I dozed off in my personal cell the night before only to be awakened by the rumble of a passing cement truck on the adjacent street below, with bright sunlight illuminating the whole room. Squinting at the Casio watch lying on the stool-like table by my side, I discovered that the Tokyo sun rose way before four thirty in the morning.

Having already bought a 4-day pass to Nikko the day before, I arrived at the station in good time for the 7.10 limited express, only for a huge tour group of retirees to colonize the only two cars going to Nikko when I went off to buy a copy of the sports papers. Denied of a window seat, I nonetheless set off on the two-hour journey in good spirits, observing wryly as sturdy-looking grandfathers shook their walking sticks vigorously and grannies toyed with the sun hats on their heads in between toilet visits.

Two stations later, the train became distinctively packed as a massive horde of elementary schoolchildren decked in their retro sky blue school jumper and track pants swarmed into the car and took up whatever standing room there was left. Hence I was faced with two loquacious schoolgirls (one of whom bears a remarkable likeness to Makoto from the drama series Beach Boys) standing right in front of me who talked the whole way through to Nikko, effusing at times on the fun they would have on their excursion and also whispering to each other in hushed tones about the cute schoolboy standing at the opposite end of the car.

Then there was also the "twist-the-Singaporean's-neck" game, when one girl would dramatically go "whooah!" at the breathtaking scenery outside (or a flying tyrannosaurus rex, judging from the exaggerated reaction) followed by her accomplice's spellbound nods of concurrence. And since all the window seats were inevitably taken up by people who prefer to pull down the shades and go into a deep trance, I had to wring my neck around to catch a glimpse of the sights each time it happened. Anyway found out after a round of charades that one of the girl’s parents were in Singapore on business, so it was quite a coincidence.

Eventually arrived at the charming Tobu-Nikko train station. Went up to the Hotel Reservation Office where I was quoted an obscene price (inclusive of two meals) at first, supposedly as a punishment for having an inadequate grasp of Japanese, before being asked how much I was willing to pay. Bearing in mind the average room rates quoted by some guidebooks, I suggested a figure a thousand yen or two lower than that as a negotiation ploy, only for it to be accepted begrudgingly.

Anyway the kindly old gentleman selling the English Nikko Hiking Guide at the station who invited me to browse through the 15-page booklet at my own leisure when I appeared over-eager to surrender my Y150 deserves a mention; but not the condescending hotel reservation staff who assumed that the scally-wag she was serving couldn't understand a word of the snide Japanese asides she was making to her more pleasant colleague. Not that it stopped me from mentioning both here.

Nikko Tamozawa Hotel

Actually I don't really know much about Tamozawa Hotel except that it primarily caters to corporate groups and that it has flexible room rates. Within the premises of this chalet-like building, there is a conference room, a huge traditional hall, common baths frequented by non-staying guests and a modest dining room along with the obligatory souvenir shop.

Still having the hump for their earlier attempt to charge me an exorbitant rate, I arrived to find a weaselly receptionist with rotten teeth and slick black hair combed all the way back welcoming me in English, which made the hotel's initial reluctance to take me in until they were satisfied that I could understand basic Japanese all the more baffling.

Anyway it turned out to be a wonderful stay in the end, though if truth be told it doesn't take much to endear a place to me. Was allocated a room at the end of the doorway, which I later discovered housed a bigger bedroom than other rooms on the same level. There was an association from some temple staying on the same level as I was, and given that they were allocated a room for every four persons (taking up four rooms in total), I began to realize why I had been quoted the princely rate back at the train station.

The door to my room opened up to a small area housing a sink, with a bathroom and toilet on either side. A few forward steps brought you to a six-tatami mat lounge with a television set and tea table (which I used for writing and planning purposes at night). A sliding door divided the lounge and bedroom, in which you could find a small round glass table, rattan armchairs and a heavy bed that left me with swollen calves in the morning. A small balcony was also accessible from the bedroom, though the only view it provided was that of an empty car park.

Perhaps the most pleasant aspect of a stay in Tamozawa Hotel is the highly personalized touch that they offer. A huge welcoming rack is positioned outside the lobby, and for every guest a plank of blackboard bearing his name is put up for the duration of his stay. There is also a slip of paper with similar detail clipped next to every hotel room door.

An indelible impression the hotel gave me was that of their meals. In my first evening in Nikko I heard a knock on my door about ten minutes before dinner time and was surprised to find a kitchen staff on hand to lead me to the dining room, where I found a sumptuous meal waiting for me on the table--- dried fish, assorted vegetables, mushrooms, miso soup and rice and a mini clay pot used to cook meat on the spot. It might not sound like much but after meal after meal of udon slurping, this simple home-cooked fare brought a lump to my throat (fish bones, probably). The motherly staff introducing the dishes was also very pleasant, and seemed almost relieved to be able to establish some line of communication with me.