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A Japanese Machine Gun bunker, unknown atoll, South Pacific
I created this entire diorama for two reasons: One, to actually use
the Gurkha headsculpt in some way, and second, to feature my handbuilt
Taisho Heavy Machine Gun. A Bunker seemed the perfect spot to feature
both.
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The Grimacing Gurkha
Front (actually, side) of the bunker, with the Japanese Marine manning
his gun. This side is unfinished, because I was really intending
the diorama to be viewed from the "back" of the
gunner. With hindsight, I think I should have finished the
"outside" of the bunker, at least this side view.
Maybe later!
Need camo netting? It is an old trick, but it works. Use cheesecloth.
Buy it at a hardware store, and cut it to fit your needs. If
Cheesecloth is too loose, use a roll of gauze first aid wrap. The
weave on that is tighter, but the widths are preset at one-three
inches, usually.
To quickly camo either one, I love spray paint. Green, black and
rust/barn red are great background colors for jungle came. Simply
spray sweeping 'splotches' of each on the white cheesecloth/gauze
until the entire item is covered with mixes of all three colors. Spray
lightly, unevenly for best effect. You can then add better detail with
hand paints, but using the spray effect makes wonderful background on
the sheets.
Gunner Close up
The marine wears a padded "flak" jacket, essentially nothing
more than a heavy quilted cotton pullover. It would help prevent
flying splinters and stones from injuring the soldier.
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Interior View
Remember when creating a diorama, you need "room". To
completely encase this with walls, or a roof, I felt would have
detracted from the Action and story. I left the back side (right side)
open, so the viewer can imagine more of the bunker complex extending
beyond the scene. You do not need to recreate the entire house, just a
room.
Sandbags were made of clay, and molded in place. Burlap was applied to
the outside to create a "molded" texture, then they were
painted. A thirty round strip clip was made from a belted ammunition
roll, and glued on the back to keep from curling. Extra
"brass" was made by clipping individual shells from another
belt, and removing the bullet ends. These were then scattered all over
the firing area. The gunner's ubiquitous Arisaka rifle stands in the
corner.
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SNLF officer and small details
Small details can make your diorama. Bananas sit on the water barrel,
a helmet hangs on the wall, and gourds are drying on a peg. sawdust
was used on the floor to simulate the dirt/beach sand and real wood
litter of a coconut log bunker.
Need dirt? Use RUST. Find an old rusty nail, saw blade, metal part,
and simply rub your clothing with it. The different colors and layers
of rust you can find will guarantee you will have multi-colored dirt
on your clothing and equipment. No two dirt stains are ever alike, and
no two rust stains will be either. Again, like Talc, MOST of the rust
stain will wash out, but not necessarily all.
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Side view details
Their rice bag hangs on a wall peg, along with a map case with their
fields of fire, orders, and weekly radio codes.
Weathering clothes, the safe way: An alternative to bleaching.
A simple trick to weathering clothes, without fear of damage (from
bleach, sandpaper, etc.) is talcum powder. Simply rub talcum powder
into the clothing, to lighten it little by little. It can be applied
in spots, like elbows and knees, or all over to simulate many washings
of the item. Lighten pants separately from uniform jackets, to add to
the effect, as many soldiers washed their pants much more often than
their jackets.
Talc is safe, even for our youngest modelers, and has no long lasting
side effects. Too much lightening? Simply dust it off, and start over.
Or, wash it in water and some soap, and you are back to normal color.
You can't do that with bleach.
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The machine gun
No one makes a 1/6th scale Japanese heavy machine gun, so i had to
build one myself. Doing such a project is fun, and don't worry
about messing up. My first attempt at kitbashing a weapon was a
mess, but I learned with every attempt. Just keep at it, and you
can make your own in just a little while.
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Research
There are not many pictures
available, but to do a kitbash, you only need one or two.
Research your ideas, get pictures, and start looking for things you
can use. Break each section of your idea down. For this
weapon, i saw the cooling rings around the barrel as the hardest part
to "mold", and then it hit me... washers! I slid a
series of washers onto a brass threaded rod, and glued them in
place. The smaller section of the weapon, with the small cooling
fins, is a metal "screw plug". The body of the weapon
is plastic, from a US 30 cal. machine gun i had that was
scrapped. |
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