
1. Setting up XP: If you are using XP (and you should be), there are some things to make MAME, or anything, run a little better. I got most of these from Dave's DigDug Box, the page that inspired me to get an 80's cabinet in the first place. There are some other things you can do, like in msconfig (START->RUN->msconfig->Enter) there is a starup tab, turn off messenger. Also to save hard drive space, restart in SAFE MODE and delte these folders in the program files: Messenger, Outlook, Netmeeting, Moviemaker. Lastly, in the control panel for Add/Remove Programs, click Add/Remove Windows components. You can take off Fax, Indexing, MSN Explorer, Outlook, and Windows Messenger. I also like to delete fonts, they add a long time to bootup. If you want to play it safe, just delete Sybol and Wingdings/Webdings.
2.Selecting a computer: I did endless research and trial to decide on a computer fast enough to run all the MAME games (all that run correctly in .77, anyway [nothing can run Cruisin', yet]). I found some truths that would have helped me, so here they are:
CPU: Get the fastest CPU you can afford. Also, (I will catch hell for this), go with AMD. I have both, and I can tell you it takes a faster Intel to equal an AMD. I recommend 2ghz*. That being said, when I underclocked my cpu to 1.5ghz, it seemed to work just fine. Also, 90% of games will run nicely on a 1.3ghz machine. MK3 and NeoGeo games won't run on an 800mhz machine, but Street Fighter Alpha 3 worked just fine. Lastly, my 300mhz PII can barely run Pacman. *(see update below in "Video Card")
RAM: It's generally agreed that 256 is the minimum, and it's where most people stop. DDR is recommended. I use 512 because I play NeoGeo games like Metal Slug that demand it, and also my Motherboard shared video memory. You can get a stick of 512 DDR for $50, just go for it.
Hard Drive A complete set of MAME roms with all the extras is about 12 gigs. I fyou get rid of big games, games that don't work, and stuff you won't play (read: Mahjong), you can get it down to under 5. Without the cabinets and marquees even less. Windows XP Pro before pruning is about 1.75 gigs, and you can shave maybe 300 megs off of that. Keeping all this in mind, and leaving room for other things you will want on the cabinet (pinball simulators, MP3's, pictures, etc), I would recommend a 10 gig, if you can even buy one that small nowadays. Make sure it's at least 5400rpm, and you're set.
Video Card I have said it before, and I will say it again: 2D Emulation is handled almost entirely by the CPU, and the main function if a graphics card in a cabinet is to put the signal out to the TV. You don't need a crazy graphics card, in fact, I strongly recommment getting a Sapphire motherboard that has TV and an ATI Radeon 7000 built in. They recently stopped selling the AMD versions at Newegg, but they still have the p4 version. The AMD model, #A3-M275, is still available elsewhere, like here, and here. If you need to get a graphics card, make sure it has TV-out, either component or S-video, although I will argue they produce nearly identical results with MAME. One with both is best, but it depends on your TV. Make sure it has at least 64 MB of video memory, preferably DDR. I am not alone in saying that ATI is the only real choice. Nvidia is not great at TV-out. Make sure your ATI is Radeon 7000 or newer and you are golden. UPDATE: with the recent release of Tekken and Tekken II for MAME, I have discovered that the graphics card could play a factor in 3D games. The Tekkens are unplayable (but close) on my 2.0GHz with ATI 7000, but work perfectly on my 2.66GHz with ATI 9700TX.
3. Selecting a TV: There are purists out there who prefer a Wells-Garner monitor for there project. This is fine and will work well, but know this: they cost an arm and a leg (Think: $700, people refer to them as "Wells-Fargo" monitors because you need to rob a bank to get one) and if you get a used one, chances are good it has burn in. If you want high resolution, you can also use a large computer monitor. This is also expensive and usually looks cheesy. I recommend a nice, cehap TV. It only has to have composite or s-video inputs. You could save lots of money buying a TV that has no sound (your computer runs the cab's speakers). Just measure inside your cabinet and find out which TV will fit (please use the case measurement of the TV, not the screen!) and unless you are really a pro, I would not take the tube out of the case. It's dangerous, fragile, and hard to mount properly. My cabinet was 23 inches inside, so I fit a 20" T nicely. Most arcade games use 19" monitors, but some fancy ones like SVC chaos use 27" monitors. While this sounds like it would be great, I have heard that 27" is just too big to stand this close to. If you notice, SVC Chaos has it's controls 2 feet from the screen, you will likely be standing 8 inches away. I recommend a 20", 22" if you can find it, or maybe 25" if you can fit it. Just get a name brand you trust.
4.Modify the Cabinet: to adjust the cabinet from its original use to your use, it will most likely need modification. I like to keep it as original as possible on the outside, but inside there is work to do. You will need a thick, strong, very stable shelf for your TV. You will have to mount the control panel, so you may have to cut or add bracing. I also took the back off my cabinet, because I don't want it to get hot in there. Finally, you will need to mount a power strip inside. Those are the basics. Here are some for your convenience:
5.Make yout Cabinet Convenient - here are some quick tips to make your life easier:
- Put your cab on casters. This raises it up a few inches (these games are designed around little kids) and also make it movable, as you sometimes need to get at the back.
- Add a switch (I used a regular HAPP button, above the marquee) to turn your computer on and off. Simply wire it to your "Power" posts on your ATX motherboard.
- Use a set of speakers with an in-line volume control, mounted on top or behind the coin doors. MAME roms all run at different levels, this will make your life so much easier.
- Put your computer and TV on a different power strip than your coin/marquee lights. That way you can choose to have just the lights on for show, or if you leave the computer running all the time you can turn off the lights at night.
- Remap your keys in windows to control your MAME frontend, so you don't have to use the keyboard. In MAME32, if you remap the "1" key to "Enter", you can select a game with the stick and hit 1-player (on a HotRod, anyway).
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6.Make the controls your own: Even if you but a premade control panel, which I did, you can still take it apart and put buttons where you need them. For example, I took the flipper buttons out of the HotRod and mounted them on the side of the cab.
Buy a Hot Rod SE
Here's why I decided to go with the HotRod SE as a controller:1. It is put together, professional, and sturdy.
2. It is cheaper than buying components yourself and putting them in. You would have to buy T-molding, wood, an Ipac, 18 buttons, 2 joysticks, yards of wires, wire clips, 1 1/8th and 1" drill bits for the holes, material for overlay, plus 2 or 3 hours of your time (how much DO you make an hour?)
3. It is a standard size that fits in most arcade cabinets, and fits perfectly in Capcom and Atari cabs.
4. I have never read a bad review of a Hot Rod
5. They are cheaper than the alternatives
6. Hananho customer support is awesome
7. They were willing to give me a custom black top.
8. The HotRod is specifically supported in MAME and MAME32
You may think to yourself that you don't need all 18 buttons. Indeed if you are only playing pacman, you don't need any. But you still want a 1+2 player coin button (unless you want to keep it original and pump in coins), and a 1+2 player start. There's 4. If you want to play Neo Geo, there's 4 more. The point is, you should customize your cabinet to your uses, but err on the side of expansion. Whether you are talking about Hard Disk space, CPU speed, RAM, number of buttons, etc, just leave yourself room to expand. Just because MAME runs on a 1.5ghz machine now doesn't mean it always will.
That said, my cab did not come with a control panel, and if yours did, maybe you want to use those controls and add a few more buttons. In that case you can hack a keyboard (Google it) or buy an IPAC. Go with the IPAC. I am a strong believer in spending money to avoid headaches, and really the hours you spend mapping the keyboard matrix and soldering wires will equal time you should spend at work, make money, and buy the IPAC.
Here are some tips to same you money, all of which are pretty much common sense.
1. Dupster Dive! This may sound bad to you, but it worked for me. I live in a huge apartment complex, and I kepy my eye on the curbs around move-out days. I found 4 junked computers, all of which have parts useful in a MAME cabinet, even if they don't boot up: sound cards, hard drives (that's where I got mine), fans, ATX switchs, IDE cables, CD-Rom drives, and power supplies (me again). I even found an old eMachine that runs, I will turn that into a PacMAME bartop, someday..
2. Buy Online Ebay and message boards can give you great prices, new or used. I got the bulk of this project off the internet, and probably saved myself 40%. Before you buy anything, just check Ebay, you never know. Plus Ebay is about the only place to get original hardaware.
3. Consolodate Try to kill two birds with one stone. For example, I saved a lot of money by getting a motherboard with built-in TV out. Most motherboards have onboard sound, which is more than enough for MAME. Also, if you don't want to buy a mouse (or don't have room), get an old keyboard with a fingerpad or trackball. Finally, you can combine functions of the cabinet. Make it a gameroom TV, a kitchen internet kiosk, or a recroom jukebox. If breifly considered putting a mini fridge in mine, that would be ~ahem~ practical use of space.
4. Less is more MAME needs a quick CPU (I would say at least 1.5ghz, but not much less. You only need a HD (as small as 10 gigs for all games), and 256 of RAM. If your motherboard has onboard sound and TV-out, you don't need any drives, PCI cards, anything, meaning you don't need much of a power supply.
5. Choose Composite I read a lot of places that S-video is the only way to make MAME on a TV work well. Just to compare, I hooked up my 9700TX with s-video and my MAME computer with composite (yellow RCA). No difference I could tell. Arcade games are grainy because they are old. If you want perefect arcade reporduction, get a $700 arcade monitor. If you want it to look great and save lots of money on a TV, get one with compsite inputs, it will look great.
6. Borrow This is a no-brainer. I borrowed power tools to do the job, I suppose I could have bought them.
7. Measure 3 times, cut once This not only applies to the shelves and supports you will cut, but also to all the holes you will drill and screws you will screw. The inside of many cabinets is made from MDF, and once you screw in a screw and back it out, it won't hold anymore. You have to be sure. Also, make sure nails/screws used on the inside are not going to poke through to the side art. Lastly, make sure the TV you buy will fit into your cabinet and also (if you have a bezel), that the whooe screeen is visible. My original bezel blocked the screen because it was made for a 19-inch vertical. Also, measure whatever controls you buy to make sure they will fit; height, depth and width. Lastly, when you drill a hole for a button, make sure you factor in the couple inches the HAPP button will stick out, plus the wires.
THAT BEING SAID:
7. Don't scimp! Know where to spend the extra money. Locking casters that support 150lbs each are not cheap, but buy them. It may be tempting to put your old 15 inch monitor in your GALAGA cabinet, but it looks shabby. Spend the extra money to get name-brand electronics, especially the TV. I know that Wal-Mart has a 19" TV for $89. But if you look, Best Buy and Circuit City will have 20" for $120 or less. Spend the extra bucks and get a good brand (Sharp always last forever for me), and also get an inch or two bigger.

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