7.3.11:
fin/mobi`steering
6.11.21:
jupiter`control
20: pivot#gym` idea:
. the gym arms might be good for steering? chk feels confident .. .
. this is named after the tv series "[lost in space]
they had jet-powered backpacks with arms that swung around towards the
front
so that the controls could rise from those .
. the gym`arm is bow-shaped 2x2 which bolts onto round tubing to handle;
these handles can be adjusted at right angles
which would be perfect for under-the-seat steering .
[7.1.19: ;however,
how that could be done strongly was never doc'd, if it
existed . ]
12.6: simplest jupiter`control
. the simplest solution is using the fact that
the driver`s body is doing a rather tight rotation
so there could be a circular hand rail
with vert.pegs for the most common hand holds
which are {forward, left.reverse, and right.reverse}
. steering will be easy because in this model
the hinge is vertical, so the only torque resistance
is the driver`s rotational enertia or lack of it .
12.24:
. L-irons trapped inside side irons of trailer,
acts as base for walls of shelf,
and
steering system is not part of cabin`walls but a modular problem;
so could do walls this way without worrying being strong eno' to push
on .
6.12.6: sawyer-style
. the way to do this like the sawyer did, with a geared chain or belted
pulley,
is to keep in mind that, although it seems complicated that the
seat post runs through where you want to run your steering column,
you need only a gear that is wider than the seatpost,
then the stem of this rises to where you want your steering,
and finally this gets chained to a wheel that is right in your lap
12.19:
. the steering#normal does look like the way,
as it seems more secure and less complicated (vice versa)
than using the cabin walls for hand holds or anchor points
. must keep in mind that what feels like naturally easy steering
is actually the result of good leveraging,
where it takes much additional energy to go out of straight
12.24:
. the steering#normal way would be easier to impl
if anchor points were farther apart
.. but the problem with that is,
the chain would obstruct leg movement
12.24: steering#culti # gym`handles on lockbox:
. have lockbox layed with door up, base near driver;
and, gym handles attached to lockbox`base .
.. the culti way would be doable by laying the lockbox close behind
seat,
and then attaching the gym`bars (which are far apart) .
12.18: touring.bike reuse:
. the 10speed steering bearings are bolted to the dahon frame;
12.19:
. in normal bike steering, the fixture's in the middle,
and handlebars are on top driving a rotation out the bottom of the
fixture
. to adapt it for the sawyer way,
the fixture is connected near the dahon hub,
and then the handle bar stem will be very long,
and a spool will be in the middle of that stem .
12.18: tech.eng.mech/spools replace sprockets in non-cyclic angle
translation:
. steering base needed not be sprocket;
can instead be pulley with anchor for chain
both sprockets can be spools:
. when the problem involves translating an angle from one point to
another,
and the angle never gets cyclic or greater than 360 degrees,
then the (sprocket, chain, sprocket) mechanism
can be replaced with a (simpler to make)
(spool, band, spool) .
12.18: spool`impl:
. the spools can be made like old-fashioned kegs:
splinters of wood are banded with hose fittings
or other metal banding .
12.19:
. one spool is mounted on dahon-boom`s bearing drum .
12.19: leveraging with scissors architecture:
one way you could recreate the good leveraging found in normal steering,
on the steering thing that the handlebar's connected to,
connect that thing with another kind of boom instead of a handlebar;
the handlebar`s boom and the trailer`boom act like scissors
. towards the end it takes a lot of motion to make a very small turn,
and this way gives a lot more control on the turn
. this also means that the parts don't need to very strong,
and the steering transmission can be mere string instead of chain
. the only problem with this idea
is it conflicts with the current way for reversing,
(swinging the dahon around) .
12.23: snow tracking:
. skates as ski's like tank tracking for helping trike in snow .
12.24: mis"wheel on ceiling:
. if having strong roof then can have wheel above as steering?
need arms below eyes, and if keeping brakes done by hand
then would like to use handlebars not steering wheel .
12.29: mis" placement of handles vs stem anchor:
. gym`handlebar goes on very end in front of pivot
otherwise [30: .. under the false impression that this would
reduce the amount of
easily graspable handle as the turn`angle progressed,
but in this case, if you can get the handles near the pivot,
it doesn't matter where the base is being anchored from ]-30
7.1.15: lockbox connection
. after sitting on the driver`s seat with hands on the lockbox,
I felt confident that the steering handle bars could be attached this,
and am now looking at how the platform should be arranged with plywood,
foam,
and possibly 2x4's .
7.1.15: hinges on lockbox
. the most hopeful way for steering is attaching the gym`handlebar by
hinges to the lockbox edge
. another way would be cable.ing instead of hinge.ing .
confirmed:
. after experimenting with using the gym`handle`arm & pivot,
I finally realized that the hinges are cheap and readily available,
while the gym`arm is out of production
so even if the gym`arm could be used,
it`s reuse shouldn't be given a very high priority
. also considering ways to reposition the handlebars,
but it's nice having a flip-back feature
that makes it easy to get into the driver`s seat .
proj:
. got the hinges drilled for bolts not screws
designer problem:
. realizing after first starter hole that I haven't considered
the bolt head height when converting hinges from screws to bolts:
it's ok .
7.1.15: bolt shortage problem:
. after drilling a huge hole for gym`size bolts,
I decided now that instead of a square beam,
all I need is a U-beam`s strength,
and next session I'll saw opposite the side connecting to the hinges,
so that I can use short bolts, which I have many of,
and so I can use smaller-diameter bolts
to save on drill wear .
16:
. the amount of pressure I could apply steering
is far less than that needed to buckle a u-beam of the guage I have
here .
16: u-bolt formation:
it would be best to make the hole underneath where the hinge will go,
but I would need to epoxy the bolt or nut inside, and don't feel secure
with that;
so, the way will be pulling a side opposite to reach in there with a
socket wrench .
7.1.16: hinge problems
16.1339: installation
. the hinges will flex and get metal fatigue that way
so need to had some ramping shim
that will fix that flexibility .
16.1355: noticing problems
. drilled out hole for anti-flex shim;
. now planning to cut some of bend-down of lockbox
for a place to drill 3rd hole to stop flex;
but, should I consider just re.drilling the other 4holes?
. the problem is that just bringing the gym`handlebars closer to their
anchor point will not do
because I'm taking advantage of the lockbox's original shape to save
time
. the place I have it anchored now
would be perfect for the angle I want the handlebars to be during
routine use
if only the hinge was resistant to flex stress
. if I use that cut to bring the box closer to the hinge
then there will be less over-all flex stress?
think about adding a metal bar between hinges and lockbox .
16.1419: found parts for solution:
. found the bar I wanted to test; it was a security bar for the office,
and it's meant to hang shelving
. I put it under the hinges near their pivot
to keep them from flexing
. 2 pairs of holes were needed for making use of short bolts,
in 2 attachements: box to bar, and bar to hinges .
16.1549: flex cure also needs lockbox reforming
. regardless of the bolts being closer to the hinge,
there will still be stress fatigue
if the bolting is not completely holding the hinge
and/or the handlebars are not being held by some point beyond the hinge
.
16.1557: a bar across the side axis
. suprised I didn't have a plan for the secure way to hold up that
gym`handle bar,
and there is no clear way to come in from the forward-backward axis;
but as I write it becomes obvious that
I need only a bar across the side`axis,
placed where I want the operational placement to be
. as hinted at before,
that will entail cutting part of the lockbox legs
to allow the other part of the legs further out to be held by intact
lockbox`leg .
7.1.17: reconsider how to arrange hinges like this:
. cut the lockbox`legs so that the handlebars are angled right
and since the tendency is for the 'bars to be pushed down with use,
the hinge should be connected so that such energy tends to straighten
the hinge
or do something besides bend the hinge, like rotating the pivot
7.1.17: minimizing rework:
. rework could be minimized by changing the security bar position,
so that instead of hugging the edge of the lockbox,
it was inverted so that the very edge of it was against the hinge`pivot,
and it would be attached to the lockbox by it`s edges,
where it wouldn't be in the way of the handlebars coming down close to
the pivot .
7.1.17: simplifying rework:
. if changing handles shorter
then no need lifting handlebars:
just nail to lcokbox and it uses half the bolts
and they can all be short .
7.1.18: mis:
. start to do bolt impl;
but, prep work turns out to have been some idiot show?
just try planning again whatever is needed
to make use of new longer bolts .
. now believe the prev plan was to cut the legs however it takes
to bring that thick bar to the edge near pivot .
7.1.18: new plans:
. hinges need to be against the edge of their anchor point
and then to make quite sure that there is no flex in the hinge to
weaken it,
the heavy bar should be placed over the hinges (not under)
because the normal use will tend to push the steering arm down against
the lockbox (the hinge`anchor)
which will then tend to bend the hinge upwards
. like the previous design,
the bar should be close to the edge of the hinge
. if needed, the longer thicker bolts can be used along the bar,
because,
the steering is critically important,
and there is now a sharpener for the larger drill bit needed to sink
holes for those larger bolts .
7.1.19:
. the lockbox is practically part of the steering column
because if the lockbox were to become unbolted from the trailer frame,
then steering control would be loose
. it might be most secure if the locbox was bolted directly to the
frame,
instead of putting floorboards between them .
7.1.19: design:
. finish getting a secure hinge.ing of steering`arm to lockbox
. disgusted to find that the hinges are way off center,
but rather than drill new holes,
I recovered by cutting the lockbox legs to fit,
and I would have had to make the same cuts anyway
. another thing that went wrong,
or something to worry about in the future,
is that the hinges are on a part of the arm that curves
. I vaguely recall thinking this might just stiffen things,
but now I'm worried about it stressing the axle with each use of the
hinge
. I'm leaving it this way hoping
the plastic around the axle will wear out
long before the axle of either one snaps
. in a pinch I can use the brake on the good side,
and help steer with the other hand grabbing the lockbox from behind
.
gym`handlebar/bolt.access`cover
plate:
7.2.8:
. need screw holes there that quickly provide both cover for the
gym`arm`s bolt-access holes,
and can also anchor the cables and keep them from getting pinched .
7.2.11: mis
. after starting to string the cable to the gym`arm,
I had to undo it because only later did it occur to me
that this
connection had to be quick because
it was at a fault.line of the disasm'ly for reassembling
on the street
7.3.6:
. the cover plate can use a piece of the shelving`beams,
and since the bean is angled,
it can be tied or taped on instead of bolted or screwed .
7.2.24: stabilizer
cables
. one way to insure stable steering
-- that doesn't jack.knife during a panic stop --
is to run cord from the handlebars to the dahon`forks
so that only minor turns can be done with waist twisting,
while steep turns have to loosen the cord
. after find how much is needed to make a typical left or right turn,
the normal lengths of the cord can be adusted .
25: easier way
. an easier way to limit steering than tethering forks to handlebars,
is to chain the back of the seat to the lockbox .
7.5.2: pull-up bar
for jacknife straightener
. there should be a control for straightening the front`wheel,
because if jacknifing seems likely from rough road
then tight control on frontwheel can make steering feel less tense
. the actuator should be from pulling up on handlebar
because this hand movement control is currently used only for releasing
the back`brake
while jacknifing is likely only to occur while using the front brakes
--. although this is not a high priority,
you might want to make the anchors for this while abundant electrical
power is still available .
7.5.6:
mobi`dahon`steering
. tried the control handles reversed; feels ok,
-- and the gears feel like I might just be able to get up a few hills !
(just kicking it forward a few inches while still parked in the
kitchen) .
