Ball Python Care

Home In the Wild
Ball Pythons originate from central to western Africa. They are found in tropical forests and also the savannas. The weather changes more dramatically, and it is generally much hotter in the savanna then, for example, the grasslands in Canada. They live in areas where there is good cover to hide, and near a source of open water. They love to use old burrows where they spend most of the day. Ball pythons are crepuscular, like deer, meaning that they are most active at dusk and dawn. They are not arboreal but are good climbers. They kill their prey by constricting around it until it suffocates.

What they look like
The wild type Ball Python, also called a “normal” has a broken or disrupted pattern with a very dark brown background and tan or yellow markings. The head has bulbous appearance with yellowish stripes running back from each nostril passing under each eye and going to the back of the head. When frightened or disturbed, they often coil up into a ball, hence the name, ball python. The have a very muscular compact body, compared to other more slender snakes.

Differences between males and females
The most accurate way to sex a ball python is called probing. An EXPERIENCED person inserts a slender rod into the cloaca or vent and the rod will penetrate further in a male as it enters one of the hemipenes. A female will have a shorter depth of penetration. Probe depths are about 2-4 subcaudal scales for female Ball Pythons, and 6-10 for males. As mentioned, probing must be done by an experienced keeper, as improper probing can be inaccurate or fatal, as organs may be punctured.

Generally, females get larger than males, and can grow up to 6 feet in length, however 4 feet is more common. Males are generally slimmer, less girth than a female and have smaller heads. They also have larger anal spurs, useful for clasping the female during mating.

Housing
When housing a ball python, keep in mind their adult size or plan to make many upgrades as you snake grows. An adult ball will need a tanks size with a ground surface 3 feet by 2 feet. The ground surface is more important than height. Never forget that ball pythons are excellent escape artists so ensure that you have a tight fitting, escape proof top. No one wants to go through the trauma of looking for a lost snake.

Substrate
When choosing a substrate, it’s important to keep the needs of the snake foremost in your mind, above your own aesthetic desires.

Cypress mulch, shredded aspen, paper towels, and newspapers are proven effective substrates. I use Cyprus mulch as it looks attractive and natural, holds humidity well and is easy to spot clean. Many large scale breeders prefer paper towel or newspaper. Do not use sand. Although there is a risk of impaction with any loose substrate, sand is a big cause of impaction deaths in snakes. Impaction is caused when the snake accidentally ingests the substrate, typically when feeding. Do not use shavings of aromatic woods, like pine, cedar, etc. as the oils can be fatal.

Temperature and Heating
The ambient temperature should be 77°F to 82°F and the temperature on the hot side should be 88°F to 92°F. The snake will move around to the different sides/temperatures as needed, E.g., warmer side when digesting a meal. Digital thermometers are great for checking the temperature. They have a probe that can be placed in the tank to accurately measure the temperature.

The best source of heat is from below. Ball pythons need “belly heat” to thrive. This can be accomplished with an under tank heater or heat tape. An under tank heater (UTH) is what I use. It has a sticky back that you just stick to the underside of the tank. Most come with risers to raise the tank and allow for air flow beneath. A word of caution: you should buy a dimmer ($15 at home depot) or a thermostat (herpstat $145) to use with the UTH. Some heat mats get too hot, and with a plug in dimmer or herpstat, you can adjust it to maintain the correct temperature.

Humidity and Water Source
Humidity is the amount of water present in the air and is very important to ball pythons. It is essential to ensure a good skin shed as the snake grows. You are trying to achieve a humidity of 50-60%. This is measured by a hygrometer, which can be bought at Wal-Mart in the plant section or at the pet store ($6). As mentioned, Cyprus mulch is good because it holds the water well, and lightens when it dries out, so you know when to mist it down.

Large surface areas of water also increase humidity. A low large water bowl is excellent. It gives a large area for water evaporation, thus increasing humidity, and it gives the snake a place to soak during shed, to make for a proper shed.

Necessary Accessories
Ball pythons are secretive snakes, and need good hiding places to thrive. Remember, in the wild, the hide out all day long. They need that opportunity in captivity. Hides can come in any variety to suit your décor. Personally, I prefer the natural look, so my hides are made of rock like crevasses or bark and fake plants. Many people use cereal boxes and inverted margarine tubs with a hole cut in them. Regardless of what you use, put many of them in. There should be hides available on the warm side and the cool side so your snake can feel secure regardless of which temperature he is in. It is also beneficial to provide a moist hide during a shed. I add dampened sheet moss to a few hides. These hides then have a humidity of 70% compared to the rest of the tank.

I also give my snakes branches to climb on and a friend gives them action figures to climb on.

Feeding
Small snakes (hatchlings) can be fed pinky or fuzzy mice. As the snake grows so too will the size of their food. Rats are the best thing to feed your ball python. They have more calcium than a mouse. As well, it is more cost efficient to feed your adult 1 medium rat as opposed to 4 adult mice. Try to get a snake that is already eating rats, rather than have to try to switch one over. The general rule of thumb is to feed the snake prey that is a bit thicker than the girth of the snake. Example Young snakes should be fed every week. Older snakes can be fed every 10 to 14 days.

Growth
As the snake grows, the outer skin gets too tight and must be sloughed off. This is called shedding. A growing snake will shed approximately every month. There a few signs that a shed is imminent. The snake’s skin will appear dull, kind of grey. The eyes get milky blue colored and the snake starts spending more time soaking in the water dish or hanging out in the moist hide. This is a good time to increase the humidity in the tank with a spray bottle of water and mist the walls and substrate. Remember, you want the tank to be moist, not soggy. Sitting on wet substrate can cause scale rot. Moist substrate helps for a perfect shed.