You have to wonder about Napoleon. There he was, comfortably settled on an island just six miles off the coast of Tuscany – and all he could think about was France. Granted, he was in exile, but he was virtually the emperor of Elba during his 10 months on the island. And he what did he give it up for? Waterloo. You don't have to be an emperor to appreciate Elba these days. The island's eastern end was long an industrial wasteland of iron mines, and it wasn't until the last 30 years, after the iron ores gave out, that the natural beauty of the rest of the island was rediscovered by Italian tourists. Today about half this unpretentious island is a nature preserve, attracting a new generation of hikers (the view from the highest peak, Monte Capanne, takes in not only the Italian mainlaind but a quartet of islands, including Corsica) and mountain bikers. (a 14-mile, single-track trail follows the crest of the island from Marciana). Beaches? More than 50 of them, some sweeping strands blessed with golden sand (the most popular scattered along the southern coast), others lined with smooth rocks and sheltered by seacliffs. There are also castles, Roman ruins, and charming hill towns to explore (brush up on your Italian, because English speakers are scarce) – and plan on working up an appetite. This is Tuscany, after all. |
What's Your Pleasure?BEACHES It's hard to beat Marina di Campo, with more than a mile of fine golden sand, but one environmental group has called Marciana Marina the best beach in Italy. It isn't the sand (the shore is lined with small, smooth stones), but the water is clear and pristine, and the marina is the kayaking center of the island. (Paddle west to see one of the island's most beautiful shorelines.) SIGHTSEEING Most of the remote northwestern tip of Elba near Cabo Vita is accessible only by the sea (sailors love it when this happens). But head west from Bagnaia (where the views from an 11th-century fortress are superb) to San Giovanni (home to a popular thermal spa), then stop for lunch in the island's main town, Portoferraio. If it's spring, continue a short ways west to Capo Bianco, where the lovely coastline is adorned with an abundance of wildflowers. DINING Seafood, Tuscan-style…tempting? Start with a simple salad of shellfish drizzled with olive oil, followed by a black risotto (cuttlefish is the main ingredient, with its ink added to the rice at the end). Some restaurants allow you to choose your own fish (to grill or bake), and if you are on in the island in autumn, don't miss the fresh-from-the-forest porcini mushrooms. As for wine, skip the chianti and savor an Elba rosso (mostly sangiovese grapes) or, with shellfish, a Ansonica bianco. |
Web Picks |
www.elbatuttanatura.com
www.infoelba.com
www.theatlantic.com/issues/2000/11/russo.htm
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Island Map: Elba |
Map Links: Elba |
For more detailed maps, check these links. |
CHARACTERISTICS |
Lying
only 10 km. from the mainland, Elba is the largest island in the
Tuscan Archipelago and having a surface area of 224 sq. km., it
is the third Italian island in size. Elba has become an internationally
famous tourist resort. Her climate is particularly mild. Her coastline,
which winds for 147 km., is incredibly varied. The grandeur of the
Mount Capanne group (1019 mt.) is magnificent. The average year
long temperature is 15.7°C: January's average is 9.3°C, while July's
is 24.3°C. The averages for the various seasons are: Winter 9.7°C,
Spring 13.9°C, Summer 22.7°C, Autumn 16.6°C. The average monthly
water temperatures from Spring to Autumn are the following: April
19°C, May 20.2°C, June 24.1°C, July 26.8°C, August 27.3°C, September
25.5°C, October 23.1°C. A "man size" island, Elba has been able to snatch up all the benefits from modern civilisation, its comforts and technology, without however compromising her nature, landscape, sea and coast, mountains and woods. She hasn't allowed her ancient villages to be disfigured nor the remains of her ancient civilisation to be destroyed. Elba is like a treasure chest rich in delightful surprises, framed by crystal-clear waters which caress sandy beaches, secret green bays and inlets, or steep cliffs. Inland environments range from shady woods, to sweet cultivated fields, to barren lands where aloe and cactus reign. And then you have Elba's towns: those on the sea, which often maintain the ancient flavour of a fishermen's shelter, and those chiselled out of the rock up high, which still tell us about pirate raids of long ago. You can hunt for mushrooms, berries, flowers or chestnuts. You can observe the world of wild animals which here find an ideal habitat. Or you can simply enjoy the fresh, clear air and the beauty that nature so generously gave to this island. Perhaps after a taste of the local cuisine which blends sea traditions with those typical of Tuscany.
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Elba ItinerariesA Hike from Sea to SummitNature on Horseback Archaeological Trek Hiking and Biking Bird Trek Kayaking Bike Trails Bike Roads Climbing the island: itineraries "Sea Watching" "Bio Watching" |