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SPYDER FIXES

Chris' Paintball Page
PAINTBALL - Spyder Problems
Now an OFFICIAL S.O.G. Page!
Like all paintguns, the Spyder has its share of problems. I have written this little fix-it chart to help you diagnose and solve your problems. Many of these fixes come from comments posted in the Members Forum of The Spyder Owners Group , and I take no responsibility for what you do with your gun, don't go blaming others if you do mess up, remember the Good Samaritan? (You shouldn't cause irreparable damage with most of these fixes.)

The Problem The Fix

My Spyder is chopping ball after ball! -CO2 too high or too low. An expansion system or remote might help if the weather is cold.
-Check anti-double feed nub for damage. Some Spyders were even sent without them.
-Make sure the barrel is on tight and that it is clean. Check it for damage or warped sections especially if you are using the stock barrel.
-Check the velocity for an appropriate setting.
-Try firing slower or buying a motorized loader if you are shooting 6+ rounds/sec. constantly.
-Check paintballs for defects and freshness.
-Check inside of gun for sharp edges and sand them down.
-Clean the paintgun.
-Lube the bolt/striker assembly and check the o-rings for wear, replace them if they are damaged.
-If it is double cycling, think about getting an expansion chamber or remote system.

My bolt is stuck! Now what? This is a common problem with most guns usually caused by a piece of a paintball getting wedged between the bolt and the inner wall of the gun. A broken o-ring could also cause this problem. Refer to the first problem for ball breaks. As for the bolt, I pour water down the gun to soften up the paintshell and then push back hard on the striker's knob. Some push against the screw in the middle of the bolt, but this requires caution. Continue to douse it water and push until it is free. Then lube the bolt/striker assembly, check the o-rings, and then reassemble the gun.
-If the problem is not because of paint, try to get the bolt loose and then lube the bolt/striker. My gun got stuck the very first time I pulled the trigger. Make sure you lube the gun before you start to use it in any way if it is brand new.

My Spyder went fully automatic! -Usually because of a low CO2 level, you are about to run out. Get a refill.
-Make sure you are releasing the trigger all the way when you are firing.
-Check the trigger assembly for damage to the sear, that is the part that catches the striker when it recoils. Some people sand this part down to get a faster firing rate, but if it is sanded down too far it will go fully auto (The Spyder wasn't made to be fully automatic.)
-An expansion chamber or remote system should cut out sputtering (except on a low tank).
-Check the velocity for an appropriate level.

I can't sight! The rail is blocked by the Powerfeed! -"Walk" your shots onto target. That is what most users do.
Buy a raised sight rail or a scope high enough to clear the Powerfeed.
-Modifications can be done to place the sight rail on the side of the marker. There are instructions to do so in the Spyder Owners Group in the Member's Forum.
-Sight along the barrel.

There are BIG scratches on my bolt and inside my gun! -This is normal wear for the gun and does not seam to effect operation enough to worry about it.
-You could always upgrade the bolt, but they also seam to get scratched.
-Some sand the worn spots on the bolt down and polish them with steel wool. They also do this to the inside of the gun where it is worn with several tools. There is a lot of talk about it in The Spyder Owners Group. I advise caution if you do make any modifications to the actual body of the gun.
-Lube the bolt/striker.
-Clean out the gun and protect the insides from damaging debris, such as sand and dirt.
-Many people go to a professional airsmith to combat this problem.

Man! That gun is loud! -The barrel does NOT do a good job for noise reduction, making it one of the loudest guns on the market. Try a new barrel, it makes a huge difference. Ported barrels seam to reduce noise the best.
-Buy a silencer for the paintgun.

My velocity won't increase! -Check CO2 level, you probably need a refill.
-Check the temperature, if you usually play in less than 50 degree weather, you will need a expansion chamber, remote, and/or anti-siphon tank.
-Place washers behind the spring guide to boot velocity.
-Buy a stronger spring.
-And like always, check the o-rings.

My velocity won't go low enough! -Remove the spring guide.
-Buy a lighter spring.
-Cut a ring or two off the existing spring.

I hear a gas leak! -Check the fittings and tighten if necessary.
-Use Teflon tape to cut off leaks in the fittings.

There's a gas leak in the gun! -Cock the gun.
-Check the CO2 levels, refill if necessary.
-Check the cup seal for damage and replace if necessary.
-Check the valve for damage or o-ring wear, replace if necessary.

The Striker Knob keeps coming loose! -This is a common complaint, I have heard that a drop of Loc-Tight on the threads will hold it in place (make sure you get the kind that is not permanent.)
-Just keep tabs on it during the game. Screw it back in tight anytime you have a break in the action.
-After you cock the gun, it doesn't serve any purpose. Take it out of the striker and put it someplace where you won't loose it.
-People wrap the theads with teflon tape to make a better bond.

I hate this stupid grip! -Me to, some people grind off that little knob-like thing in the middle of it to make it easier to handle.
-Buy a new grip, the 45 Grip is very nice. Go for a metal frame.

Balls are dropping out of my barrel -Make sure you are using .68 paintballs.
-Check your anti-double feed nub for damage or wear, replace if nessicary. This is probably the most likely problem. Make sure that it is in place and the bolt is not rubbing against it in a way that it bends it (the stock Starrfire Bolts are known to do this, so the slot needs to be made larger.)

The Problem	The Fix
My Spyder is chopping ball after ball!	-CO2 too high or too low. An expansion system or remote might help if the weather is cold. -Check anti-double feed nub for damage. Some Spyders were even sent without them. -Make sure the barrel is on tight and that it is clean. Check it for damage or warped sections especially if you are using the stock barrel. -Check the velocity for an appropriate setting. -Try firing slower or buying a motorized loader if you are shooting 6+ rounds/sec. constantly. -Check paintballs for defects and freshness. -Check inside of gun for sharp edges and sand them down. -Clean the paintgun. -Lube the bolt/striker assembly and check the o-rings for wear, replace them if they are damaged. -If it is double cycling, think about getting an expansion chamber or remote system.
My bolt is stuck! Now what?	This is a common problem with most guns usually caused by a piece of a paintball getting wedged between the bolt and the inner wall of the gun. A broken o-ring could also cause this problem. Refer to the first problem for ball breaks. As for the bolt, I pour water down the gun to soften up the paintshell and then push back hard on the striker's knob. Some push against the screw in the middle of the bolt, but this requires caution. Continue to douse it water and push until it is free. Then lube the bolt/striker assembly, check the o-rings, and then reassemble the gun. -If the problem is not because of paint, try to get the bolt loose and then lube the bolt/striker. My gun got stuck the very first time I pulled the trigger. Make sure you lube the gun before you start to use it in any way if it is brand new.
My Spyder went fully automatic!	-Usually because of a low CO2 level, you are about to run out. Get a refill. -Make sure you are releasing the trigger all the way when you are firing. -Check the trigger assembly for damage to the sear, that is the part that catches the striker when it recoils. Some people sand this part down to get a faster firing rate, but if it is sanded down too far it will go fully auto (The Spyder wasn't made to be fully automatic.) -An expansion chamber or remote system should cut out sputtering (except on a low tank). -Check the velocity for an appropriate level.
I can't sight! The rail is blocked by the Powerfeed!	-"Walk" your shots onto target. That is what most users do. Buy a raised sight rail or a scope high enough to clear the Powerfeed. -Modifications can be done to place the sight rail on the side of the marker. There are instructions to do so in the Spyder Owners Group in the Member's Forum. -Sight along the barrel.
There are BIG scratches on my bolt and inside my gun!	-This is normal wear for the gun and does not seam to effect operation enough to worry about it. -You could always upgrade the bolt, but they also seam to get scratched. -Some sand the worn spots on the bolt down and polish them with steel wool. They also do this to the inside of the gun where it is worn with several tools. There is a lot of talk about it in The Spyder Owners Group. I advise caution if you do make any modifications to the actual body of the gun. -Lube the bolt/striker. -Clean out the gun and protect the insides from damaging debris, such as sand and dirt. -Many people go to a professional airsmith to combat this problem.
Man! That gun is loud!	-The barrel does NOT do a good job for noise reduction, making it one of the loudest guns on the market. Try a new barrel, it makes a huge difference. Ported barrels seam to reduce noise the best. -Buy a silencer for the paintgun.
My velocity won't increase!	-Check CO2 level, you probably need a refill. -Check the temperature, if you usually play in less than 50 degree weather, you will need a expansion chamber, remote, and/or anti-siphon tank. -Place washers behind the spring guide to boot velocity. -Buy a stronger spring. -And like always, check the o-rings.
My velocity won't go low enough!	-Remove the spring guide. -Buy a lighter spring. -Cut a ring or two off the existing spring.
I hear a gas leak!	-Check the fittings and tighten if necessary. -Use Teflon tape to cut off leaks in the fittings.
There's a gas leak in the gun!	-Cock the gun. -Check the CO2 levels, refill if necessary. -Check the cup seal for damage and replace if necessary. -Check the valve for damage or o-ring wear, replace if necessary.
The Striker Knob keeps coming loose!	-This is a common complaint, I have heard that a drop of Loc-Tight on the threads will hold it in place (make sure you get the kind that is not permanent.) -Just keep tabs on it during the game. Screw it back in tight anytime you have a break in the action. -After you cock the gun, it doesn't serve any purpose. Take it out of the striker and put it someplace where you won't loose it. -People wrap the theads with teflon tape to make a better bond.
I hate this stupid grip!	-Me to, some people grind off that little knob-like thing in the middle of it to make it easier to handle. -Buy a new grip, the 45 Grip is very nice. Go for a metal frame.
Balls are dropping out of my barrel	-Make sure you are using .68 paintballs. -Check your anti-double feed nub for damage or wear, replace if nessicary. This is probably the most likely problem. Make sure that it is in place and the bolt is not rubbing against it in a way that it bends it (the stock Starrfire Bolts are known to do this, so the slot needs to be made larger.)

As I mentioned earlier, I take no responsibility for what you do to your Spyder, but most of the fixes are very safe. Remember to disconnect the CO2 and the paint before you make any repairs, especially those that effect the inside of the gun, except if it something simple, like removing the striker knob, or just trying to force the bolt back by the knob if you have a break. Lubrication to the bolt and striker can be done in the slot in the left side of the marker. Make sure you do not lube the barrel, you will have crazy shots everywhere. As for what to lube it with, I use WD-40, which has been known to destroy o-rings, but so far so good, you have to use a lot though (I've been using it over a year and the o-rings are fine). Transmission fluid and sewing machine oil are also supposed to be a good lubricants, but you can't go wrong with paintball gun oil.

It should be noted that all most all of the fixes came from one of these sources:
The Spyder Owners Group (By Dave Reed)

The Care and Feeding of a Spyder found at Warpig (By CJ Schaff)

The Semi-Automatic Spyder by Kingman International also found at Warpig (By Michael Hornung)

And by various other sources too numerous to list. Thanks to all of these people for helping diagnose virtually all the problems a Spyder could possibly have. As for my list, feel free to e-mail me and add suggestions or argue about them. I'd love to hear from you.

THE END

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Welcome to my brand new paintball site I hope you like it and I will continue update this site as often as my other sites!

This site was created on October 30, 1998! This site was last updated on Decmber 6, 1998

Email: tippmann_model_98@yahoo.com