How to Sharpen your tools

by James Curran
Frostproof.com

Why sharpen tools? Most gardeners do not take the extra time to clean and sharpen their tools mostly because either a. they don't understand the importance of it or b. they don't know how. Hopefully this article will help you with both.

The main reason why it is important is that when a pruning tool, like a shear or a lopper, is sharp you get much cleaner cuts which is important to the healing of the tree or plant. Immediately after making a cut on a plant, it starts to ooze sap or resin. This is the plant's natural protection remedy to provide a shield from weather, fungi and insects. When a plant has a jagged cut, as from an unsharp pruner, the plant has a much harder time healing since there is a larger area exposed to all the natural elements.

The second reason why it is important for sharp tools is that it will make your own efforts faster and significantly easier.

How to sharpen tools

1. The first step in sharpening any tool is to make sure the blades are clean. I usually start by taking my pruning tool and cleaning the blade with soap and water to remove dirt and debris. This step, however, will not get rid of the sap and resin from your recent pruning. To remove the sap you need to dip the metal ends in a solvent such as kerosene. After I lightly dry them I give them a mild coat of pruner lubrication oil. This lubrication oil is not on a lubricant but will also prevent future rusting. If you are going to sharpen you tools at this time you can put the lubrication oil on at the end of that process.

2. The next step is determine the correct sharpening angle. This is usually about 10 to 15 degrees. I then take my sharpening stone and put a light coating of vegetable oil on it to keep it lubricated. The oil not only keep the stone lubricated but helps to carry away the grit while you are sharpening. It is important to periodically to add a little more oil as your sharpen. To maintain the correct angle, press the blade against the concave side of the stone while sharpening. The main word of caution here is DON'T PRESS TO HARD! Use several smooth strokes, moving the blade in one direction toward the tip. For every 10 strokes to the outer bevel, apply one stroke to the inner angle.

3. To test whether you have sharpened the blades enough you can perform the light reflection test. Simply hold up the newly sharpened blade to any light source. If you get a reflection off the blade edge then you have not sharpened enough. It is important to note, however, that you don't want to sharpen the blades too much as that will make them fragile. To do a final test you can go out and test the sharpened tool on a size of branch is was designed to cut (i.e. cutting capacity 3/4"). If the blades pull or catch you need to sharpen some more.

4. Finish off the blades by giving them a light coat of lubrication oil. Finally I always keep my tools in some kind of sheath. That does two things a. it protects the blades from dirt and other debris and b. it protects the blades if the pruner gets dropped on the ground.

Special pruning jobs

1. Anvil type pruners:

Anvil type pruners have only one cutting blade but it important to sharpen both sides equally. Avoid putting a curve on the blade's edge because unless it is perfectly straight pieces of plant tissue will cling to the blade after each cut and it will be harder for the plant to heal. 2. By pass loppers

For scissor-action "bypass" lopping shears it is only necessary to sharpen the outside surface of each blade. The inside of the lopping shear blade needs to remain flat. The inside of the blade should be cleaned but not sharpened.

General Pruning Tips

1. After you have sharpened you tools, it is a good idea to check the tension screw between the blades. That is located several different places on most tools but is usually around the middle of each blade. You should adjust the screw to give freedom of movement but make sure that they are close enough together to make good cuts.

2. Over time you may notice that the cutting edge has become rounded or you get a serious nick in the blade. It is much easier and more cost effective at this time to just replace the blade. I usually recommend that my customers also replace the spring at the same time they replace the blade. Doing these two steps, along with a quick sharpen will restore your pruner to its original glory days.

3. In my tool shed I always keep a rag handy that is dry (and fairly clean) on one end and has some lubrication oil on the other end. That way when I put my tools away I never forget to do a quick two step process.

Final Words Having sharp tools to use in your garden really does make your job easier but more than that it is good for your plants. Over time you will easily be able to tell when it is time to sharpen but it is always time to keep them clean and well oiled.

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