Most of these components should be readily available from shops that sell electrical spare parts and tools. Pure silver wire is available from jewelry stores, electro-plating firms, foundries, precious metal dealers, etc. but always insist on its purity. It should be as pure as possible to work properly. Pure silver wire should be 99.9% pure silver.

You may wish to mount and house your generator in a plastic container or some form of box and this can either be bought or constructed to your own design. Most commercially available generator models come in solid plastic boxes.

Take the three snap-on connector clips for the batteries and solder them in series (red to black) to provide 27 volts. Then connect the miniature lamp in series with either (positive or negative) output lead. Solder a red alligator clip to the anode (positive) and a black insulated clip to the cathode (negative) connector lead wires and then, using a heat-gun or match shrink insulation over the soldered connections.

Assemble this in your choice of container, and you are ready to make your first batch of colloidal silver. Fill a glass with about 8 oz. (half pint) of distilled water (for best quality colloidal silver for internal consumption) or bottled or tap water for all other purposes, and then take two pure silver wires about 5" long and bend the top inch over so it will rest securely over the rim of the glass. This should leave you with 4" which can be submerged in the liquid. With distilled water it is best to stir in a very small amount (no more than a drop) of dissolved sea salt solution, available from health food stores.

This will lower the resistance of the water for better results. Make sure you NEVER use table salt, however, as this contains impurities such as aluminium, iodine, and silica. There is no critical spacing between the electrodes, but if they touch it will short circuit and waste your batteries. As soon as you connect both wires to alligator clips the lamp should glow and show you that it is working. Leave it for about three minutes and at a temperature of about 72F it will produce colloidal silver of around 3ppm strength.

You should see a cloud, like smoke under water, forming around the one electrode and this will increase to color the water in the glass. If you increase the temperature of the water, each additional 10 degrees will double the ppm for a given time. After the three minutes disconnect the silver wires, and stir the liquid with a plastic spoon.

Store your colloidal silver in a brown glass or plastic container. Never make or store colloidal silver in metal containers. Clean the blackish silver oxide deposit from the anode with scouring pad and wipe with a paper tissue so you are ready for next time.

The batteries will make hundreds of batches of colloidal silver, but when the bulb is glowing only very slightly and hardly any colloidal smoke can be seen in the water, then is the time to replace them with new ones.

The suggested adult dosage is one to several 8 oz. of colloidal silver stock solution straight or diluted in another 6 to 8 oz. of water and taken no more than three times in twenty four hours. An 8 oz. glass can be ingested directly with no harmful side-effects.

Many manufacturers are advertising golden colloidal silver, but the only advantage this has is a longer shelf life. It is harder to make and has an unpleasant bitter taste but if you wish to produce this use a tall, narrow glass for the 6 to 8 oz. of distilled water but add no saline solution at all. Because the water will not gain conductivity, as it does with added salt, a much longer time is required and the process will take about 45 minutes. This should make a concentration of about 10ppm colloidal silver. Keep an eye on it though, or if left too long it will turn a murky brownish color and then go black. If this happens throw it away and start again and remember that the process is best conducted in a darkened or low-light room.