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Papermaking

Papermaking is simple and inexpensive to do at home.  The basic equipment is easy to make, and the basic materials are free.  There aren't any hazardous tools or materials, so it's fun and safe to share with children.

Basic Supplies

Shredded Paper

Six 6’ Furring Strips

Sponges   prefer cellulose

Blender

Metal Screen

Cement Mixing Tub

Large piece fine fabric

Plastic Screen

Plastic Trash Bags

 

Optional Supplies

Scented Potpourri

Dyes or colors

Liquid Scent

Molds (plastic, terra cotta, plaster)

 

Getting started:

1.      Get some shredded paper.  If you don’t have access to shredded office paper, you can raid the trash bin at your local copy center.  A small shredder runs about $25, or you can tear the paper into little bits yourself.  Junk mail, discarded office paper, etc. is fine.  Cloth bond, such as is used in some letterhead or invitations, makes very nice pulp.  Newsprint is not good, as it is already too far broken down.   J

2.      Put the shredded paper into plastic bags and cover with water.  Seal the top pf the bag.  Divide the paper up as necessary to keep the weight of the bags practical.  You will probably need to double bag the shreds, as trash bags aren’t watertight.

3.      Allow the shreds to soak for about a week.

 The next step:

4.      Put the regular strainer in the sink, and if you have a cake rack that will fit, place it in the sink under the fabric, to better allow water to strain out.  Line your sink with a large piece of fine cloth, allowing the edges to hang out over all sides of the sink.  I use an old pillowcase with seams taken out. 

5.      Set up the blender nearby. 

6.      Strain most of the water from the shreds and set them ready to hand in a tub or bucket. 

7.      Half fill the blender with water and put in enough shreds to just reach the top of the water.  Grind the shreds for about 10 seconds.  If the blender sounds jammed, stop and stir the shreds.  The paper pulp should look fluffy.  Pour the contents of the blender into the sink.  The fabric will strain the water from the pulp.  Do not allow pulp down your drain, it can clog it.

8.      Repeat step 7 till all the shreds have been converted to pulp.  Be patient and do not burn out your blender adding too much pulp at a time.

9.      If you wish, you can potpourri to the pulp.  Grind up potpourri using the same method as the shreds.  Potpourri will probably take longer to grind up.  Pick through afterward to remove materials too tough to grind.  Use your hands to stir the potpourri into the rest of the pulp.

10. Gather up the corners of the fabric and twist shut to form a closed bag holding the pulp.  Squeeze the bag to eliminate as much water as possible from the pulp.  You may add dye or scent to moist pulp.

11. The pulp may be used now or stored for later.  If you will be using it within a few days, the damp pulp may be stored in a plastic bag or container.  If you plan to wait a long time before using the pulp, you should allow it to dry before storing it.

12.  Make certain to dry out your straining cloth and brush off any remaining pulp before washing, as you don’t want it going down your drain.

 Making blanks:

13.  Cut the furring strips and screw together in the desired size and shape. 

14.  Staple metal screen to half the blanks.  The other half should not have screen, as they govern the edge of the paper.

 Making Paper:

15.  Line a table or other surface with fine fabric.  If the table shouldn’t get soaked, put a plastic sheet under the fabric.  Bear in mind that this is a very wet activity and everything in the room is going to get wet.

16.  Half fill cement-mixing tub with water.  Add a couple of handfuls of pulp, breaking up any clumps and stirring well.

17.  Hold a blank with screen, screen side up.  Place an empty blank on top of it.  They do not need to exactly match, but the empty blank should not be larger than the screen blank.

18.  Stir water just before inserting blank, slide blank in along lower third of water, then lift straight up, capturing pulp.  If pulp is not even, slip back into water and try again.  If pulp is too heavy, insert back into water and try again, allowing some of the pulp to spill out before clearing water.  If it is too thin, you may need to add more pulp to the water.

19.  Set empty blank aside, cover pulp with plastic screen and press water out with a sponge, holding blank over tub.  It helps to use the edge of the tub as a brace.  Press out as much water as possible with the sponge.

20.  Take the blank to the cloth covered table and lay it, pulp side down, on the table.  Press on the screen side with a sponge to remove as much water as possible. 

21. Carefully lift the screen.  If the paper lifts up with the screen, gently tap the corner of the screen against the table to encourage the paper to release and lay out flat on the table.

22. Allow the paper to dry.  It has a tendency to curl.  This can be avoided by laying fine fabric and something smooth and waterproof on top to weigh it down, but it will significantly slow the drying process.  Dried paper can usually be ironed flat.  Damp paper can also be ironed flat.  Using a fine cloth between will help prevent scorch marks.

 The Fancy Stuff:

·        Decoration:  This is paper.  You can use any paint, ink, or glue suitable for paper.

·        Inserting materials:  Make a regular sheet of paper.  While it is wet, arrange dried leaves, pressed flowers, ribbon, string, etc, on the sheet.  Make a new sheet of very thin paper, preferably using white pulp, and press it onto the original sheet over the items.  Press well with your sponge along all the parts of the top and bottom sheet that touch, to “weld” them together.  Don’t worry if the thin top sheet tears and exposes the items.  As long as the tear is not big enough to let the items fall out, this only makes it look better.

·        Using molds:  Make the sheet of paper as before.  While it is still damp, press it into or drape it over your mold, using a sponge to carefully press it into the detail elements of the mold.  If it tears, pinch the water out of a small amount of pulp from the tub and press it first with your fingers then with the sponge to cover the tear.   Use as many sheets as are needed to cover the mold, making certain to “weld” edges of sheets together with diligent sponge work and extra pulp as needed.  You want to use plaster or terra cotta mold if possible, they  absorb the water from the paper and help it dry.  Plastic molds work, but are not as good, as they sometimes stick to the mold and take longer to dry.  If your project does stick to the mold, be patient in removing it.  Try flexing the mold, flexing the paper gently to convince it to release.  If all else fails, moisten the area that is stuck.  Remember, this may make a watermark on that area, so it is a last resort unless you plan to paint it.  3D molds can be made in two parts and glued together or made in one step, then cut off in two parts and glued together. 

 Don't weep over failed projects.  Toss them in the tub and try again!

 

All images and materials on this page are the property of Michele Ellington.  Do not use without written consent.
For problems or questions regarding this web contact moondrake@sbcglobal.net.
Last updated: 04/30/04.