Kritter keepers work really good for cages, but plastic storage tubs are good too. Storage tubs are also cheeper and come in larger sizes. Ventilation is really important. If the cricket cage doesnt get enough air flow the crickets will die and the smell will get really bad. If you can cover the top of your cage with screen that's best but otherwise poke as many air holes as you can in the cage's lid. and more importantly your gecko from escaping. The screen lid will also keep other pets out and ventilate the tank.

Substrate

For my crickets I don't use a substrate. That way they can't eat it or hide under it. A tank without substrate is fine as long as you have plenty of hiding places and climbing places. A substrate does make the cricket cage look cleaner. If you want to put something on the bottom of your tank here are some ides.

If you want, you can try putting a mix of oatmeal and wheat bran on the bottom of the tank. I used that for a while and it really cut down on the smell. But to keep the cage sanitary you have to change most or all of the substrate with each batch of crickets, and that got a little expensive. Crickets will eat their substrate, so don't use anything toxic. A substrate with nutrients in it is a major part of the crickets' diet. If you want to do this there are tons of different recipes for cricket gut-loading substrate. Go to Dr. Gecko Ultimate Feeder Diet. That is the best mix I've found.


Food and Water

For feeding your crickets I reccomend Flukers Cricket Gut-load. If you use a special mix like the on the link above just follow the same instructions. Because I don't want to waste my commercial gut load I I put some in a jar lid about three inches in diameter in my cricket enclousure. The crickets find it fine. I always see at least three at a time munching on it. One bottle lasts for months if you use it right.

Water is very important for crickets. A dehydrated cricket will quickly die. You can't just offer water in a dish like you do for your leopard gecko because the crickets will drown in it. It's easiest to use a specially made cricket water gel. The moisture comes in a form that looks and feels like jell-o. I use Flukers Calcium-Fortified Cricket Quencher. Using this kind of water is definatley the best way to go. I buy the calcium fortified because it adds extra calcium to the crickets and makes them more nutritous for your gecko. I offer about a spoonfull or two of the cricket quencher in a jar lid three inches in diameter. The crickets drink it quickly so make sure it doesn't run out.


Hiding/Climbing Spaces

Crickets need places to hide and places to climb. They are pretty dirty bugs and have to escape from their waste. Crickets also last much longer with some hiding places in their cage. I use an egg carton cut in half in the back of the cricket cage, then I fill the rest of the space up almost to the top with paper towel rolls. The more hiding spaces the better. If there aren't enough to go around, crickets will fight for them and some will die. Papertowel rolls and egg cartons are the best and cheapest things to use. The paper towel rolls make it easy to scoop out crickets.


Maitenance

I quickly check on my crickets everyday just to see if they have enough food and water. Just replenish thier food and drink as needed. I only buy 30-40 crickets at a time, so I go through them pretty fast. That way I don't ever have to clean the cage when there are crickets in there. Once I finish off all of them, I through away the egg cartons and paper towel rolls, wash the jar lids, then wash the tank itself in hot water. Then before I put my next batch of crickets in I just setup the cage with food, water, egg cartons and rolls. It's all easy and takes about five minutes a week.