Chasing a growth ring on the back of an Osage stave can be a daunting task for a new bowyer. Knowing what to look for, what tools to use and how to overcome potential problems can make this part of crafting a selfbow very enjoyable.
Hopefully the following steps will help you to prepare that Osage stave you’ve had sitting in the corner for so long to become the selfbow you have always wanted to make.
The first thing we need to do is to remove the bark and sapwood from the back of our bow stave. Secure the stave by whatever means you have at hand so that it doesn’t flip or roll while being worked on. The back or bark side needs to be facing up or out so that you can have access to it. Take your drawknife and begin at one end and remove all the bark. It should come off fairly easily.
Now here I must note something…this is where I differ from most bowyers. Once the bark is removed most potential problems can be seen in the sapwood. That being said, I usually go ahead and mark off a 2” wide band down the stave where the intended bow will be. I then reduce the width to the lines ending up with a 2” wide stave. I do this because there is no use removing sapwood and chasing a back ring on wood that will end up as waste anyway. NOTE: Use caution with this method, because sometimes the wood can hide little surprises. The way I see it…if it’s there it’s still going be there if the stave is full width…LOL
Next start at one end about 8” to 10” in from the end and pull the drawknife to your body. Keep pulling shavings until you begin to see a hint of that golden heartwood begin to show. Now go around on the other side and pull shavings off in the other direction until you have cleaned the entire back.
You should now be approx one, maybe two rings up from the intended heartwood ring you will use for your back if you intend to use the first ring. If the first ring is not suitable and you must go down a few to find one you think is better the same above information applies. Remove wood until your approx 1 to 2 rings above your chosen ring for the back of your bow.
Now we must remove the rings exposing our pristine back for our bow. Once again start from the end a carefully remove wood down to your chosen ring approx 2” to 3” from the end. In good natural light you can see the difference between the spongy early wood and the hard latewood rings. You can also feel as you basically “pry” of the outer hardwood rings the drawknife will glide along the back of the latewood ring. Go to the other side of where you started and pull the knife in the opposite direction between the rings. After you get to this stage this will become very apparent and the explanation will become crystal clear…LOL
It is important to note that beginners should use very well seasoned wood until a firm grasp of what is taking place can be understood. Chasing rings on wet wood can be done and IS done all the time, however it is a bit more challenging. Light scraping or sanding will remove any remnants of early wood left behind after draw knifing.
If a knot or pin is encountered while chasing your ring DO NOT CUT THROUGH IT under any circumstances. If you do, you have now exposed the once pristine back to almost certain death because of a weak spot in the grain. Although there are exceptions to the rules…this should be avoided at all costs.
To work a knot or pin that cannot be avoided attack the knot or pin from all sides leaving an island of wood around it from the ring or rings you removed. I usually leave a generous amount all the way around when draw knifing and come back to finesse the area with a small blade or scraper later. Swirling grain can also be a problem causing a “tear out” of wood if one is not careful during wood removal. Hopefully your 2” width reduction followed any grain deviations there may have been and should have been detected in the sapwood.
Take care.. Sparky
Trad Gang.com
Stickbow.com
Primitive Archer
