Disclaimer: The instructions below are what I did to my car and can be used as a "guide" for working on yours. But, I take no responsibility for what you decide to do to your car. Be sure to read through all of the instructions first before doing anything to your vehicle.

UPDATE:

Purpose: In a PCV system, air (and at high rpm's, oil) is routed back into the intake manifold. Over time, this will make your manifold, valves and injectors dirty. A catch can seperates the oil from the air before it reaches the intake manifold, keeping it nice and clean.

Application: Any car with a PCV system.

Time Required: ~2 hrs

Scale of Difficulty: 1 (5 being the hardest)

Cost: ~$30

Tools Required:

• 1.5" dia x 6" long PCV pipe ($2.50 for 6' at Lowe's)
• (2) 1.5" caps ($.80 ea - Lowe's)
• PCV Cement ($3 Lowe's)
• (2) 3/8" x 3/8" barb ($2 ea.)
• (2) 3/8" x 3/8" 90° bend ($3 ea.)
• (1) 3/8" "T" valve ($3)
• (2) 1/4" x 1/8" barb ($2 ea.) -- optional
• (2) 1/8" x 1/8" 90° bend ($2 ea.) -- optional
• 3/8" OD x 1/4" ID clear vinyl tubing ($3 for 10' at Lowe's) -- optional
• 1/2" ID x 10' hose (Lowe's) -- optional
• Yellow (petroleum) Teflon Tape ($2 - Lowe's)
• Epoxy ($3 - Lowe's)
• Drill
• 1/2" & 3/8" drill bit
• Dremel
• Pencil/Pen
• Tape Measure/Ruler

I'm gonna let the pics do all the talking in this one and I'll just point out some tips to make it go easier.

A = Clear Tube B = PVC Caps C = 1.5"x6" PVC Pipe D = 3/8" 90° E = 3/8" barb F = 1/8" barb G = 1/4" to 1/8" 90° H = "T" valve

1. Finding the brass fittings was a bit of a problem. Between (2) Home Depots and a Lowe's, I was able to get everything. So, look around if one store is out of a certain size.

2. I drilled the holes to a close enough size and then used the Dremel to perfect it. I used a 1/2" bit for the input and output fittings and used a 3/8" bit for the rest. Remember to drill a pilot hole first. I didn't tap the holes with threads, I just used the brass fittings to carve the threads into the PVC.

3. Do a dry fit. Get all the brass fittings in place and caps put on, then take it out to the car and figure out where you're gonna mount it. The cooler the better job at seperating it will do. When you think you've found a good, accessible spot, turn the fittings so they line up with where they are going, the best you can, as well as the handle on the valve.

4. Use the yellow, petroleum based teflon tape on all the brass fittings.

5. Following Rick's idea, I also put a 90° bend pointing down on the inside of the input port. Just as an added measure to keep from sucking up any oil, but it is optional if you wanna save a few $$.

6. Epoxy the brass fittings from both inside & outside and then cement the PVC caps on.

7. Mount the seperator and attach the hoses. If you need longer hoses, you can get some glossy black, vinyl hose from Lowe's in 1/2" dia. for $3. I ran a hose from the drain down to near the oil pan so when I open the valve the oil won't go all over the place. I usually drain it every oil change.