Site hosted by Angelfire.com: Build your free website today!

<< home  < Articles

Disposing of Household Oils

Threads - Household Oil

On  17/4/2003, Gerald Cairnes posted:

I have just responded to advice given at Auntie's Greenhouse Site;

http://www.abc.net.au/science/planetslayer/greenhouse_qa.htm

on the disposal of household oil. There we are advised to collect it and have it taken away by one or other authority for disposal. While there is some logic in this, it is really a cop out for what should happen. These materials are eminently compostable and should be disposed of at source and NOT collected by some toxic waste system that takes it away mixes it with kero then sells it for fuel oil.

We even have the lunacy of mine sites being forced to send their waste back to the metropolitan centres because of the same legislation. As if the metropolitan areas need more pollution????  This legislation was drafted by a collection of vacuous twits just like the ones who drafted the legislation about refrigerators being degassed before being able to be disposed of at tips. The cost and transport to and from a service centre for many are just too high, more privatisation, so we now have the bloody things appearing along side road dumped at night and nobody wants to touch them. At some point they will have to do something about this stupidity.

A couple of years ago I tried to get the various State EPA's to wake up to the issue of composting mineral oils as a sensible approach but only the Qld Department took any interest, encouraged and referred me to Caltex/Ampol who had something like 1200 tonnes of contaminated lead, copper and zinc containing greases to dispose of. It was going to cost them from memory something like $2M to have the stuff removed and I suggested that they put up the $2M for a joint venture to commercialise the technology and if I could demonstrate to them that these materials were thoroughly and easily compostable. The copper and zinc were of no consequence once dispersed in compost the levels were below standard fertiliser levels. The lead material could be subjected to a separate process, confidential, that would immobilise the lead but still permit rapid composting.  In conjunction with another company we were ready to move a 15 cubic metre composter on site and begin processing immediately and the lot would have been processed under accelerated composting conditions in an estimated 3-6 months with a useful by product. Of course this would have required a fee of $40,000++ by the National Registration Authority, excessive though it is but even that is chicken feed in this particular exercise.

Well I did demonstrate successful composting of their wastes but they chose to pay the fee and have it removed, I wonder what actually happened to it????  Of course this was their right to make such a decision but it begs a lot of questions.

Most pollies and government departments seem to exist simply to wield large sticks at people and are incapable of actually doing anything positive or practical, no wonder we are all so pissed off by governments generally. We had the great QA rip off and Standards Australia got themselves into difficulties trying to be entrepreneurs and many other get rich quick examples and "setting the stage" for their wealthy mates to further profit from. Now we have the spectacle of all governments in this Country withdrawing from this excessively costly bureaucratic scheme and doing their own QA in house while the rest of us must continue to pay for the extortionate fees and processes which are screwing local innovation. We have just withdrawn 2 new Provisional Patent Applications because we do not wish to waste any more time on these expensive processes and the info now will not see the light of day!!!!!

I would like to say a great deal more about this but I cannot at present do that, however, I will have more to say later in the year. What happened to the principal of "mutual obligation" we hear so much about from our squeaking pollies??

Apologies to those sincere bureaucrats whom I know are trying to do the right thing but being shat on from a great height for their troubles. One has to wonder at the quality of the technical advice being given to these departments and the interference that affects their ability to take the advice.  More anon!

Sorry Bernie but you need to do better than just parrot the government line on these issues.

Toby Fiander replied:

Here is some of the oil item from ABC Q&A site.  Some of the stuff there is quite good.  I have removed the quotes as being too tiresome....

Q: What's the best way to dispose of household oil? I keep telling my flatmate not to flush it down the loo, but it'd be good to know an alternative.

A: If you chuck oil on the ground, hose it into the gutter or wash it down the sink it'll end up in our waterways - and that's not good. Water and the things that live in it weren't designed to cope with slicks of extra virgin anything - it upsets the passage of gases and gets all over birds' wings. Your best bet is to keep the oil you use in an old takeaway container and find out what your local council/garbage collection service offers. Then take your flatmate on a nice site tour of the local sewage treatment plant.
[ends]

I am not certain which treatment plant might be referred to here, but assuming it is an inland treatment plant in Sydney or almost any NSW country town, then flushing it down the loo, while not recommended, it probably not such a bad thing to do with oil that does not solidify.... the local sewage authority will probably be displeased, but here is roughly what happens at a typical sewage transport system and treatment plant of a small to moderate sized town.

Firstly, when the waste with the vegetable cooking oil in it flows along the gravity sewer it will pick up a whole lot of stuff which is adhering to the sides of the sewer.  It will act like a solvent to some extent.  So it will not be the nice nearly pure oil that is being discarded down the sink/toilet.  When it gets to the pumping station, it will be mixed with  lots of water and there will a certain amount of emulsification with the soap in the water.  During the pumping this will be a fairly thorough mixing of the oil and the water waste.

When the wastewater arrives under pressure at the sewage treatment works, it will be a grey mess, probably considerably warmer than the ambient temperature thanks to the hotwater systems and body temperature of the water, and with some solid matter in small pieces.  It could also be a day old and lacking oxygen, but that is another story.  In any case, the sewage in it won't stay at a warm temperature for long.  Hitting the inlet works, grit removal chamber and coarse screens at the head of the works will cool it down considerably, so that a lot of the body grease and whatever else has been picked up on the way will tend to solidify.  In any case, the emulsification will break to a certain extent.  The resulting oily material will float, be skimmed off at the Primary Sedimentation tank and be pumped to a composting or digestion area.  Solids that sink are also removed to the same place periodically.  It can be buried at the local tip, if it licensed for this purpose.  A lot of plants reuse the solid waste for fertiliser.  It often contains some heavy metals which can limit its use, and spreading around fairly thinly is a good idea  anyway.  These days, with the addition of alum for phosphorus removal from the effluent, the sludge can contain too much aluminium for reasonable application to ordinary fields, and so is unsuitable for agricultural use - aluminium is toxic to many plants and is increasingly available to then as the pH drops.  Regardless, the oil is disposed of without serious interference in the process.

The liquid and the items of neutral buoyancy are then aerated by one means or another so that bacteria grow. When they bacteria run out of food, the process is stopped so that the spent bacteria can settle and the decanted liquid is passed to another tank, where clarification occurs.  There is more skimming with weirs and settling (the products of which go to the digester) and the liquid passes into a lagoon to await discharge and probably  chlorination.  The spent bacteria are also sent to the digester.  As a result, almost all the oil in the mix will go to the digester.  The process is actually quite efficient even in small plants.  I have overdosed small plants with oil and coarse silt and the processed effluent is none the worse.

Within limits, the digester, an anaerobic place of strong odours, eventually adapts to whatever it is fed.  The only issue is then what happens to the digested sludge which has to be removed from the digester from time to time.  Mostly the oil is broken down to shorter chains.  The fatty acids in partially digested sludge are used in a few plants to power the removal of  nutrients.

So adding oil to sewage is not all bad news, and it is not surprising the ever-creative Gerald has an innovative process for doing it better and more formally.

However, if you live on the coast with an ocean outfall, then there is often only rudimentary treatment prior to release.  The oil flushed down the toilet will probably be surfed a day or so later....

Gerald responded:

Thanks for your learned insight to the workings of the sewage disposal systems and the effects of oils there upon. Most people in this Country have access to a back/front yard where a simple garden composter can reside and this ubiquitous or nearly ubiquitous device will easily handle even mineral oils, as you point out these systems will adapt what ever you put into them, carefully of course.

There is no good reason to unnecessarily load up the central services supplied by government with stuff we can simply handle ourselves. Centralised services should be limited to those things we cannot do effectively ourselves. Wherever possible kill the muck at source and save the community a heap of money. Of course there are those of us who cannot or will not do this and some latitude is required for them. Industrially killing the waste at source can translate into large economic savings in many ways but it needs a change in management thinking to achieve this. As you will have noticed I have given up on the art of gentle persuasion, life is now far too short so it's" kick 'em in the shins" time until they wake up! So they don't appreciate that sort of diplomacy, well tough get used to it the "winds of change are upon us" and I never kick shins without offering an "olive branch" in the form of an effective alternative. If they don't want to be embarrassed they should get their collective acts together.

There is another benefit too from doing it yourself and that is that the oils do not become contaminated by heavy metals in the sewage system so they make very good compost to be used safely at home. Of course strictly speaking we should pay the National Registration Authority $40,000+ for registration to do this, shouldn't we?? :-((

The biggest problem with oils is the low surface area, low oxygen content and small number of reactive sites available for the bugs to work on, just simply very difficult to get at the reactive sites. Answer spread it out thinly on vegetable matter add some super phosphate, lime and mix well with air as in a tumbling composter and this oil will go very quickly indeed. If need be, emulsify with sufficient soap first. There are other valuable uses for the waste oil but that is confidential at present.

Peter Adderley asked:

How do small worm farms handle used cooking oils?
The worm farms I refer to are the multi-tiered variety a measuring about 40 x 60 cm.
My immediate assumption would be that the worms would collectively scream "YUCK!!".
Would it be better to pour the oil into some sort of absorptive medium to break it up before letting it loose on the worms?
If so, what?
Was there not a product some time ago that came in tetrapak (milk) cartons specifically for recycling?
Does it still exist?

Gerald Cairnes replied:

You are right, worms are fussy feeders but if the material is first partially biodegraded even they will tuck into it. The main thing is that it is absorbed onto a medium that will allow them to swallow and digest it without gumming up their guts which are simply live composting systems anyway. They don't like volatiles or industrial flavours though.

There are companies offering microbial cultures for sale for this purpose, though I have not used them and can't offer advice as to how effective they are. I simply collect volunteers from my local environment then train them, they are quite willing learners. The name Enertech comes to mind but can't be sure of the spelling.

You really don't need special cultures for household oils, all of the organisms you need will be found on the surfaces of grass and garden clippings etc. just give them the right conditions and they will double their numbers every 20 minutes or so and that makes for some impressive count rates. The main thing you need to take care of is that there is plenty of oxygen available otherwise they will revert to anaerobic processing and produce lots of hydrogen sulfide and other nasties.

Peter Adderley answered:

Thanks Gerald, but I'm still not sure you've actually answered the question.

Do I imply from your response that I should pour the oil over some grass clippings and leave it for a day or so? This is fine but it's a bloody nuisance. I only mow my lawn about twice a year and never rake it. (strange that my neighbours always seem to suffer cutworms, drought, etc whereas my lawn always seems to survive). I'm looking for a relatively easy (read lazy) way of disposing of oils. If I am not willing to make the effort, then those I wish to inspire won't either. My worm farm survives, not through my diligent efforts but, because my wife takes bags of discarded lettuce leaves home from the supermarket (she's a kinder person than me). Just looking for ideas, as this is an important issue, and as environmentally aware as I try to be I still haven't heard of a sensible domestic means of disposing of used cooking oils.  Would also be great to supply those who wish to know, a means of disposing of automotive oils in a domestic manner.

I understand that the basics are the same, but oils ain't oils.

David Maddern commented:

On the lofty principal that one mans rubbish is another mans treasure

Oil is about the highest energy stuff

How about take it to the nearest vineyard or orchard and tell them about the anti mildew properties of sprayed oil or add some ash water... lye to it (or caustic soda) and turn the oil into soap, cake it up for people who dont want to get into the army or take it to a mob of vintage machinery buffs who can use it as diesel fuel

Or if you spray it on the soil and lawn and the bacteria as previously mentioned will love it, you can get a cascade of different bacteria catabolising different by-products, it will act like but better than 'Charlie Carp' (which has proteins as well; therefore not as energetic) Three times a year should do it.. emulsify in 200x water

Make an oil lamp?


Gerald Cairnes responded:

How do manage to only cut the lawn only twice a year? We managed that for nearly 20 but that was a drought, now we let the four legged auto mowers do it for us.

The worms wont like the oils in any significant concentration so you are looking at a two stage process;

1. a short composting period of degradation where the microorganisms will make the oil more to the liking of the worms. Strange they will demolish faeces but don't like anything that has industrial odours about it, probably because they "know" it is toxic. It is the gut organisms that do the digestion and while they may survive the process the worms may not.

I can't say that is what I do because every drop of oil gets used for R&D around here, however what I would do assuming it is practical for unit dwellers and I understand that for some it may not be so, is to mix the oil with hardwood sawdust and lawn clippings. The sawdust helps to "dry" out the gooey mess, make it manageable and allows better air circulation within the mix. I specify hardwood sawdust as the softwood resins are particularly resistant to biodegradation and take much longer to process. I also suspect that the higher lignin content of hardwood provides more protein like precursors with phenylalanine like structures, this latter point is pure speculation on my part.

2. Once the oil is suitably degraded the worms will love it. Maybe you could have a two tier structure with a composting chamber above and the worms below and the composting material falling into the worm section as it matures.

I really feel that if you are in a unit that this process should be a joint one for all residents managed by the gardener who ever that may be.

In regard to mineral engine oils, I have had no difficulty getting volunteer organisms to degrade this type of oil BUT it take more time because there are fewer reaction sites with which to work and it is mainly carbon chains so you need to supply some nitrogen and phosphate etc. Given the right conditions even these can be biodegraded in as little as 6 weeks.

The synthetic oils are silicones and these do not degrade at all easily, degradation times can be measured in years rather than weeks. However, they ultimately do breakdown and of course plants do use silicon for reinforcing leaves etc. The odd thing about silicone oils is that plain silicones are poor lubricants when it comes to metal to metal contact and they must be specially formulated to perform as well as standard mineral oils. They can destroyed by heating to temperatures above 300 deg. C. and some much less. Ignoring the metallic and organic contaminants they pick up during service they present a physical environmental challenge rather than a chemical one, although the solution will be a chemical one ultimately.

While I believe the silicone oils do have merit they are more expensive in manufacture and harder to dispose of satisfactorily. The best use for these compounds is in a recycling system that can recover the sound material for reuse thus reducing the environmental burden. I have yet to try these oils with serious composting but it may be that we can find some microorganisms that will deal with the material satisfactorily at speed. If such organisms do exist or can develop the skills their physiology will be interesting, I don't think the ubiquitous yeasts will cut the mustard on these compounds. Thanks to repetitive government interference I no longer have or can afford the kind of laboratory resources I used to have that would allow a more focused effort on this subject.

I still favour the use of the easily disposable fatty acid derivative oils and greases for most purposes with silicones used for special purposes and there are a few of these where the load on the environment should not be much of a burden. Silicone oils flushed down the loo in volume I believe would cause Toby's colleagues in the sewage game to rethink their strategies!

 However since the silicone oils and greases tend to be phenyl derivatives this may provide more points of reactivity that the simpler silicones do not have and this may be a saving grace. As it happens a client is engaged in just this sort of activity and we may have information by the end of the year but the budget is LEAN and MEAN unfortunately.

I suspect I still have not solved your problem of composting in a unit but this is the best I can do for the time being. I have reached that stage in life where crawling under the car to change oil or anything else for that matter is no longer an option so it would be for most unit dwellers I imagine. My local service station supplies me with all the nasty waste oils and degreasing solutions I need to work on.


Steve Van Z posted:

Some 25 years ago we heated our house with diesel fuel (untill we got sick and tired of feeding our supplier with hundred dollar bills) We had a big spill once when our supplier forgot to turn off the tap: Oil everywhere. I thought that patch was poisened for a long time, but...... to my utter surprise in a very short time all was well  Unfortunately I can not remember how long (or rather how short) it took, but I was very pleasantly surprised - months i.s.o. years

Podargus commented:

I must be missing out on something here.  Where does all this household oil come from?  I have a small amount of fat from grilling meat that gets drizzled over the dogs' dry feed.  But oil, I have none that is not inside me, or still in the bottle.

Toby Fiander noted:

Cooking oil (edible oil) used for deep drying is generally discarded after a number of uses.  Cooks I have known in the
past - fortunately I know none of them now - have had a lot of oil in cooking for other dishes as well.

Fat drained from cooking meat is more likely to be solid than liquid at room temperature.

The oil in sewage is usually body grease and from washing up greasy utensils and plates.  As to whether this is edible oil, I leave this to the reader....

The few items of wooden kitchenware at our house get washed up in lots of detergent like everything else, but we are not growing anything on them of which I know.

Peter Adderley responded:

Pretty simple really. I deep fry things; the oil goes stale after a couple of uses.

What do I do with it afterwards? I don't want to throw it down the sink nor chuck it into the garbage.

We're not talking industrial quantities from my household, but I don't think this issue has ever been adequately dealt with from either a simple convenience point of view, or from a community waste disposal perspective. Maybe I'm wrong. Just looking for answers to questions I ask myself. I have channels for disseminating answers at a community level and would like to pass on some enlightenment. Spraying oil on the lawn or its clippings, obtaining hardwood sawdust or possibly launching it into space, aiming it toward a black hole.. are not really what I call convenience solutions. Come on guys, I'm gettin' that ol' "white coat" feeling again.

David Maddern added:

Mate oils ain't oils

You have lipids in you, principally because they are high energy storage molecules

Boil you down and you would yield liquidised fats (which is why wood is so good on funeral pyres)

Chocolate is solid till you eat it.. copha turns from solid to liquid in your mouth.. fat to oil

Gerald Cairnes replying to Podargus:

Good question, we use very little cooking oils and the oils I need for investigation are either pristine or donated used material or motor oils etc. I am more interested in the industrial oils of all descriptions as these present significant volumes to be dealt with. I am a whole lot less interested in the constant advice about costly modes of how to avoid environmental damage that is easily dealt with by existing knowledge and common sense.

"Describe the Problem, Define the Problem and solve the Problem" good advice that seems to have been pushed aside along the way to a large extent.

As to growing things on wooden utensils, no, can't say we allow that to happen but I have some very significant photographs of the positive environmental effects achievable with the use of waste oils in certain fashions, unfortunately I can't release these at this time. At the appropriate time I hope to blow some smelly socks off, and I don't expect much thanks from official circles.
 
My initial thrust was at the advice given by Auntie about collecting the household oils for central collection etc. and I thought of those handymen who do their own car servicing collecting more tangible quantities of oil.  I got annoyed at seeing the same tired old advice being trotted out years after I had made the effort to get the various EPA's to listen to good sense. I guess that makes me a lousy salesman but the reality is that these people are more interested in simplistic generalised "feel good advice" that will not involve them in actually having to do anything other than to help draft stupid legislation which has more to do with empire building than solving any real problems! Hence the Big Stick approach, that is a whole lot easier to do than to be constructive and consultative towards the community. After all that might be construed as being "courageous"!

The politising of the public service is now almost total and it no longer deserves the honourable title of Public Service! I have put my neck on the line and later intend to justify what I have said in a most substantial way. If certain people were to know now what I have planned for them in an exemplary fashion they would probably feel justified in cutting my throat!  So be it, that will be a result of their own mismanagement and worse, most have had the opportunity to do the right thing but chosen to ignore it. As Zero quotes from time to time "you can't legislate against stupidity" or words to that effect.

Most of science is not new it is a progression based on prior knowledge, nothing wrong with that, but what we have done adds some unique achievements to this sort of paradigm and overcoming these bloody artificial ego building barriers. Anyone know of a government department that wants to spend $4M on a new website? I'd be more than happy to do it for half that price.

Ray posted:

It would seem, given the quantity of oil reduced out of the body subsequent to 'snuffing it', ordinary biological, chemical and UV decomposition processes are sufficient to reduce it to useable components.

It is the quantity of fats and oils rather than their quality which is the problem.   I dare say that mixing waste oil with the high ammonia content of waste kitty litter, and dumping into the rest of the organic compost would be enough for cooking oils.

I prefer industrial waste collection for petroleum oil biproducts though, coz that stuff is probably a bit 'rich' for most bugs.

Gerald Cairnes replying to Peter Adderley:

I am not sure what you mean about getting the "white coat" treatment, I thought all of the various suggestions have merit and can be used at small quantities. I must say that I usually don't suggest emulsifying with caustic solution only because the non scientists among us would tend to use too much and create a high pH soapy mess of significantly increased volume that is too alkaline for the bugs or the worms. David's suggestion though is a good one but remember if it is too oily it will clog the pores of the leaves and that won't do them much good and could leave the grass unpleasant to walk on, you have to do a good emulsification on them that is why I suggested using some detergent sparingly instead.

Why don't you wet out some grass or lettuce leaves and try a small quantity of these on the worms, they will either eat or ignore them. If they like it your problem is solved and you haven't done any harm to your culture.

and to Ray:

The answer is surface area, surface area, surface area. I've told the story before but some may not have heard it. I was working on the bench with a mix of engine oil and degreaser solution in a broken 5 litre beaker cut down to form a large petri dish. At that time I treated the oil with various additives which did NOT emulsify the oil but provided some nitrogen
and phosphorus and the aim was to see what volunteers happened along if any.

After a few days the surface of the oil covered in a very fine granular growth that turned out to be mostly yeasts.   Coincidentally a blowfly managed to get in an crash landed into the oil and ejected its load of maggots as it became mired in the oil. The fly was left as additional nutriment and the maggots I thought would drown.

The maggots did not drown they survived for around 6 months without metamorphosing, probably because they could not accumulate enough body fats and minerals etc. to trigger the process. Yes six month old maggots have to be some sort of record! They appeared to be eating the yeasts at the surface but they would disappear under the surface for days on end and initially I thought they had drowned but they would turn up again and again. They increased their size by about 50% over the period and there could have been some active inhibitory processes at work also.

Considering this oily medium, what was the source of oxygen they were using?  They certainly had great difficulty "swimming" through the oil and the yeasts were mainly located at the surface with some slight penetration below.

I have to conclude from this that the foul oily mix is nowhere near as biologically toxic as we have been lead to believe and that the maggots can breath under the surface. Even at the surface they were covered in oil and their breathing apparatus thoroughly wetted out - they should have drowned.

The whole question is as I said at the outset one of surface area, spread the oil thinly enough over vegetable waste, sawdust etc. and the bugs will deal with it and some literature which I now can't find suggested that the bugs immobilise the heavy metals in very insoluble protein complexes. Under the microscope using dark field illumination the yeasts were accumulating the oil into large vacuoles and increased greatly in size. My files got ratted not long ago  and I have no way of recovering them now and at the moment my work is directed in a different more fundamental direction. You see even I can be fundamentalist too when it suits. :-)

At the time one of my partners suggested he wouldn't enter the Lab without throwing his hat in first. :-))

But they were skinny maggots and no monsters appeared. Now this might be a new subject for Chris Lawson and his SF. :-) Oily maggots, sounds like something that might emanate from Canberra and some subsidiary centres of mass destruction.

Chris Forbes-Ewan replied to David Maddern:

> Chocolate is solid till you eat it.. copha turns from solid to
> liquid in your mouth.. fat to oil
<SNIP>

I mentioned in a recent message that oils and fats differ in that an 'oil' is liquid at room temperature, while a 'fat' remains solid until the temperature is higher than room temperature. A fat that melts in your mouth is still not an 'oil', because it has not melted until well above room temperature.

and to Peter Adderley:

> I deep fry things; the oil goes stale after a couple of uses.
> What do I do with it afterwards? I don't want to throw it
> down the sink nor chuck it into the garbage.
<SNIP>

One solution is to stop deep-fat frying foods.

This will not only do away with the problem of having leftover fat, but it might also considerably improve your nutritional status and prospects for a long and healthy life.

Stir-frying in a small quantity of olive (or other unsaturated) oil is considered health-promoting, but I don't believe that you will find many (or even any) nutritionists recommending deep-fat frying of foods.

> Come on guys, I'm gettin' that ol' "white coat" feeling again.
>
> Peter

I'm not sure what exactly 'that o'l "white coat" felling' is', but I suggest you try reading the Nut-Net FAQs on nutrition available through the Nutrition Australia web site:

 www.nutritionaustralia.org

Direct URLs to a couple of the more relevenat FAQs are:

http://www.nutritionaustralia.org/Food_Facts/FAQ/fats_oils_faq.asp


http://www.nutritionaustralia.org/Food_Facts/FAQ/omega3_faq.asp



Podargus commented:

I am sure there must be others here who can explain fats/oils better than me.  That said it is my understanding that what we are talking about under the heading, are all fats.

However for convenience we tend to call fats that are liquid at room temperature, oils, those that are solid, fats.  The difference in the physical property is to do with the number of carbon atoms.

In layman's terms we also tend to call fats of animal origin, fats, and those of plant origin oils.

Here, chicken fat, in the warmer months is liquid, Copha, the brand name of a packaged coconut oil is mostly solid at the same ambient temperature.

And then we have waxes, from animal plant and mineral origins.  We have petroleum jelly a soft wax, lanolin from sheep, soft, and canauba from plant (palm) hard and brittle.

Trivia; coconut oil is used in virtually all toilet soaps for its lathering ability.  Palmolive, once made from palm oil and olive oil as the name suggests, is these days made from tallow and coconut oil.

and

> As to growing things on wooden utensils, no, can't say we allow that to
> happen

It only happens on those not in regular use.  It also happens to leather particularly if treated, as it should be, with fat wax mixtures.  Of course partly to do with the humid climate.


Gerald Cairnes, responding to a further comment from Podargus:

The trouble is that the waxes and oils used for leather gear etc. are highly biodegradable and unsuitable for the purpose though they are virtually traditional in use. Once the leather is saturated it is then very easily penetrated  by water as hydration moisture followed by fungi etc. The approach is wrong and the choice of material dependent on an earlier age before the alternatives were available!

I can make you a wax/grease that will resist the attack from fungi and microbes very well indeed and I use it to treat tinea when it happens and onychomycosis very effectively as well as wound dressing for the horses. The enormous costs which we have erected around the approval of medications prevents me from taking it further. I have even discussed it with the MD of one large pharmaceutical firm and decided against cooperation on the basis that I don't believe it to be patentable and having been there before and having worked for the Industry at a high position I know what will happen.
Been there done that!

The principle is simple, the material must penetrate, and above all it must deny the organisms access to water and nutriments, this is not so difficult to do and of course it must also impart flexibility to the skin/leather all of which is well within our capabilities. I am reminded of the complaints during the Vietnam War that the soldiers cotton based webbing in some  instances was rotting out in as little as two weeks if this is accurate then it is a poor reflection on the application of our knowledge. I wouldn't mind betting they had a high incidence of topical infections as well.

My own experience after arriving in the humid subtropics was to develop a persistent otitis externa that resisted all the usual medications etc. over several years I have since cured that using the principles described above I now never get any otitis symptoms at all.

I used to sell "Tinaderm" (Tolnaftate), for Essex Laboratories a subsidiary of Schering Corp. USA now Schering Plow. They have two forms one is a solution of Tolnaftate in glycerol which is hygroscopic and gives admirable penetration but it also makes a good meal for the bugs so in my experience within a short time the bugs are making a meal of both the Tolnaftate and the glycerol and the condition gets worse, not a good strategy. The other form is a powder which has poor penetration but it does help to create hydrophobic and anti fungal conditions far more effectively than does the solution. Therefore the optimum answer is to make the solution substantially indigestible to the bugs and the skin persistently highly hydrophobic and you get the required results. Topical infectious treatments require supplementary support if they are to work consistently. There are
various techniques available to do this but I am not about to reveal these at this time, any competent chemist should be able to do this for himself.

Of course once you change the formulation in any significant way you are then faced with very high costs for clinical trials and approvals taking years and obscene amounts of funds. We are to a large extent our own worst
enemies in many cases, we allow bureaucracy to make decisions on technical matters where it has no proficiency or those sitting in judgement are not capable of, or willing to make a graduated judgement when this is required.

Zero Sum enquired:

Why is 'ti tree' oil so effective?

Gerald Cairnes replied:

Ti Tree Oil is an effective topical agent but it is also a biodegradable material that needs to be applied often in humid weather. The largest challenge to all topicals applied to feet is the humid environment in which they have to survive especially in hot weather. Hot humid conditions foster lots of bugs that are able to overcome the oil and use it as a resource and that can become a positive selection pressure even if the fungal target is still sensitive.

I believe topical treatments in areas subject to a lot of sweating need to be biologically inert materials that will deny the organisms access to the moisture and nutrients. I can achieve this to a high degree with my preparations but even those are not perfect, however, I can usually get by with a single application per day for most of the year. In very hot weather I need to reapply at least twice because of the sheer quantity of sweat produced. I have never been able to achieve anything like this with Ti Tree Oil.

My preparations are extremely low cost and very safe relative to Ti Tree Oil but they are unlikely to interest a pharmaceutical company because it would not be able to patent them. The only way I would get any interest from them would be if by some means I could get registration and sell it they would most likely try to buy me out and bury it.

Considering the conditions it is not surprising that it is extremely difficult or impossible to completely get rid of the offending organisms. I have seen it reported that around 95% of the population carries the tinea fungi in a subclinical state.

David Maddern added:

>From Australian Medicinal Plants E.V Lassak & T. McCarthy  Methuen 1983

Some Tea trees (Melaleuca linariifolia var. alternafolia ) has terpinen-4-ol which is bacteriostatic and germicidal and possibly gamma-terpinene Melaleuca linariifolia has cineole (think of gum trees) which is not bactericidal, and may act as irritant if applied too often

The macroscopic difference between the trees is the former is more squat, smaller overall size, narrower and shorter leaves and alternate arrangement of leaves

I use sorbeline with glycerol and tea-tree oil to shave with. Non drying and no infected cuts

Gerald Cairnes responded:

I have no argument with what you say, but my argument about all organically and bacteriologically active substances in environments of high humidity ultimately decay and are ultimately overwhelmed by the very organisms they are intended to inhibit or kill. Thus we set up unnecessary selection pressures for resistance.

Your use in shaving is fine as that is a short term exposure but in groins, under breast and above all feet in shoes are areas where the bugs will win every time when challenged in this way. My tactic is to use non metabolic materials which accelerate the evaporation and repel moisture off the skin making it more or less unavailable for bacteriological growth. I couple with this a mechanism that imparts to the skin an intensely hydrophobic property that also has an physical affinity for fats and proteins in sweat making them also unavailable to the bugs and very sticky "gluing" them together so that movement and replication etc. is virtually impossible. Without water they find this a very challenging situation to over come and we succeed without killing them directly and hopefully severely restrict the selection pressures.

Thus to a very high degree the principal nutrients and water are largely denied to the microorganisms. This is not a replacement for topical anti-bacterial agents which are sometimes unavoidable but better not used in this way, these techniques should be seen as preventive and as adjunctive to the other modalities that may be required in a particular situation.  Ever changed a nappy and powdered the baby's bum and just wished the water proofing would last longer? Some of these common raw materials are not readily available to the general public though there is no toxicological reason why they should not be, they tend to be available only in large quantities for manufacturers and there I do have an advantage.