The North-West Frontier Province, or NWFP, runs for over 1,100 kilometres (680 miles) along the border with Afghanistan. Peshawar is its capital, and the Vale of Peshawar, fertile and well watered by the Kabul and Swat rivers, is its heart. This was also the heart of the ancient kingdom of Gandhara and is rich in archaeological remains. The northern half of the province consists of five river valleys running roughly parallel, north to south: the Chitral, dir, Swat, Indus and Kaghan. These valleys are on the northern edge of the monsoon belt, so are fairly green and partly wooded in their southern sections. Northern Chitral and the upper regions of the Indus Valley are mountainous deserts, where cultivation depends entirely on irrigation. The NWFP south of Peshawar is below the monsoon belt and consists of low, rocky mountains and wide, gravelly plains.
The warlike Pathans (or Pushtuns or Pukhtuns), who live in NWFP and the adjoining areas of Afghanistan, number about 17 million, making themselves a race apart, a chosen people, and no one has ever managed to subdue them. The Mughals, Afghans, Sikhs, British and Russians have suffered defeat at their hands. The Pathans are divided into numerous sub-tribes and clans, each defending its territory and honor. In addition, the Pathans serve as Pakistan's first line of defense along the Durand Line, the border drawn in 1893 by Sir Mortimer Durand, then foreign secretary of British India.

The fortunes of Peshawar at inextricable linked to the Khyber Pass, the eastern end of which it guards. The pass seems to have been little used in prehistoric times, and even in early historic times it was generally shunned as too narrow and thus too prone to ambush. Not until the powerful Kushans invaded Gandhara and pacified the area in the first century AD did the Khyber become a popular trade route.
Peshawar owes its founding 2,000 years ago to those same Kushans. In the second century AD, Kanishka, the greatest of the Kushan kings, moved his winter capital here from Pushkalavati, 30 kilometres (20 miles) to the north. His summer capital was north of Kabul at Kapisa, and the Kushans moved freely back and forth through the Khyber Pass between the two cities, from which they ruled their enormous and prosperous empire for the next 400 years.
After the Kushan era, Peshawar declined into an obscurity not broken until the 16th century, following the Mughal emperor Babar's decision to rebuild the fort here in 1530. Sher Shah Suri, has successor (or, rather, the usurper of his son's throne), turned Peshawar's renaissance into a boom when he ran his Delhi-to-Kabul Shahi Road through the Khyber Pass. The Mughals turned Peshawar into a 'city of flowers' (one of the meanings of its name) by planting trees and laying our gardens.
In 1818, Ranjit Singh captured Peshawar for his Sikh Empire. He burned a large part of the city and felled the trees shading its many gardens for firewood. the following 30 years of Sikh rule saw the destruction of Peshawar's own Shalimar Gardens and of Baba's magnificent fort, not to mention the dwindling of the city's population by almost half.
The British caused the Sikhs and occupied Peshawar in 1849 but, as much as Sikh rule had been hated, its British replacement aroused little enthusiasm. More or less continuous warfare between the British and the Pathans necessitated a huge British garrison. When the British built a paved road through the Khyber Pass, they needed to build numerous forts and pickets to guard it.

Extending from west to east in the heart of the city is the romantic 'Street of Story-tellers' - the Qissa Khawani Bazaar. In olden days, this was the site of camping ground for caravans and military adventures, where professional story-tellers recited ballads and tales of war and love to throngs of traders and soldiers. Today the story-tellers are gone but the atmosphere lingers on. Bearded tribesmen bargain with city traders over endless cups of green tea. Fruit stalls look small colorful pyramids. People from everywhere throng the crowded street. Afghans, Iraqis, Uzbeks, Tajiks, Afridis, and Shinwaris move around with ease and grace in their colorful native robes and run shoulders with the Western tourists-lost in a world so different, so enchanting.

'The Street of Partridge Lovers' lies on the left hand corner of Qissa Khawani Bazaar. It derives its name from the bird-market which stood here till a few decades ago and has now been replaced by stores and shops selling exquisitely engraved brass and copper ware. However, a single bride shop still remains as a long reminder of the not too distant past.

Built on a raised platform from the ground level, the Bala Hisar Fort stands at the north-western edge of the city. The original structure was raised in 1519 AD during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Babar. It was reconstructed in its present form by Sikhs who ruled over Peshawar valley between 1791 and 1849 AD.

Warsak Dam

The gigantic multi-purpose Warsak Dam is situated 30 kms north-west of Peshawar in the heart of tribal territory. It has a total generating capacity of 240,000 kms and will eventually serve to irrigate 110,000 acres of land. 

Situated on the Grand Trunk Road in the Cantonment area, the museum houses a rich treasure of art, sculpture and historical relics, particularly of the Gandhara period (300 BC - 300 AD). The pieces on show at the museum include Graeco-Buddhist stone and stucco sculpture, gold, silver and copper coins, antique pottery, armor, old manuscripts, Buddha images, terra-coat plaques, antiques of ivory, shell and metal and a replica of the famous casket which contained the relics of Lord Buddha.

Situated atop a 160 meter high hill are the remains of a famous Buddhist monastery at Takht-e-Bhai, about 80 kms from Peshawar. This site has produced fragmentary sculptures in stone and stucco that indicate the highly developed sculptural sense of their creators. This site dates back from 2nd-3rd century AD.

Potentially one of the most important ancient sites of Asia is represented by a group if imposing mounds at Charsadda, 30 kms north-east of Peshawar. The site has long been identified with Pushkalavati, the pre-Kushan capital of Gandhara. This city was captured in 324 BC after a siege of 30 days, by the troops of Alexander the Great and its formal surrender was received by Alexander himself. It has been established beyond doubt that this city was the metropolitan centre of Asiatic trade and meeting place of oriental and occidental cultures even as long ago as 500-1,000 BC.

This mosque was built in 1630 AD by Mahabat Khan, the Governor of Peshawar, during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan (1628-1658 AD). It is a fine massive structure with lofty minarets. Situated in the Andar Shahar Bazaar, it is the finest mosque in the city.

The Khyber Train

For trail enthusiasts, the Khyber Railway from Peshawar to Landi Kotal is a three-star attraction. The British built it in the 1920s at the then enormous cost of more than two million pounds. It passes through 34 tunnels totaling five kms (three miles) and over 92 bridges and culverts. The two or three coaches are pulled and pushed by two SG 060 oil-fired engines. At one point, the track climbs 130 meters in little more than a kilometer (425 feet in 0.7 miles) by means of the heart-stopping Changai Spur. This is a W-shaped section of track with two cliff-hanging reversing stations, at which the train wheezes desperately before shuddering to a stop and backing away from the brink.
The Khyber train currently runs only by appointment. Groups of 20 to 45 passengers can book one bogey for an all day outing to Landi Kotal and back, a ride lasting ten to eleven hours, for US $ 1,000. But you can easily see the train at rest at Peshawar Station.

Darra Adam Khel

Darra is the gun factory of the Tribal Areas, located 40 kilometres (25 miles) south of Peshawar on the road to Kohat, a drive of about 40 minutes. To visit the gun factories, foreigners need a permit from the Home Secretary of NWFP whose office is in the civil Secretariat on Police Road, but you can drive by bus or car through Darra without a permit provided you do not stop. The permit is free and issued while you wait, but you should get it the day before you plan your factory visit.
The Darra arms 'factory' fired up in 1897. In return for turning a blind eye to this illegal Pathan enterprise, the British were guaranteed safe passage along the main roads. In any case, the British believed it better that the Pathans have inferior weapons of their own making than stolen British-made guns.
Darra's main street is lined on either side with small forges at which guns are made by hand. the tool are astonishingly primitive, yet the forges turn out accurate reproduction of every conceivable sort of weapon, from pen pistols and hand-grenades to automatic rifles and anti-aircraft guns. The copies are so painstakingly reproduced that even the serial number of the original is carried over. Much of the craftsmanship is very fine, but the reinforcing rods diverted from the building trade. The main street constantly erupts with the roar of gunfire, as tribesmen step out to test prospective purchases.

Mingora is the district headquarter and commercial centre of Swat. the Swat Museum, located between Mingora and Saidu, has a rich collection of Gandhara art which is worth viewing.

Swat Museum is on the east side of the street, halfway between Mingora and Saidu. Japanese aid has given a facelift to its seven galleries which now contain an excellent collection of Gandhara sculptures taken from some of the Buddhist sites in Swat, rearranged and labeled to illustrate the Buddha's life story. Terracotta figurines and utensils, beads, precious stones, coins, weapons and various metal objects illustrate daily life in Gandhara. The ethnographic section displays the finest examples of local embroidery, carved wood and tribal jewellery.

One of the most important Buddhist shrines in Swat, is near the museum. Take the dirt track on the left (north) side of the museum for one kilometer (about half a mile). The stupa is 400 meters (above a quarter of mile) across the fields to the left (north).
The stupa, which dates from the second century BC, was possibly built by the Mauryan emperor Ashoka to house some of the ashes of the Buddha. In subsequent centuries, it was enlarged five times by encasing the existing structure in a new shell. Italian excavators working in 1955 exposed the successive layers of the stupa, each layer illustrating a stage in the evolution of building techniques.

Kabal is a golfer's paradise: an eighteen-hotel course is open all year round and anyone can play there by paying the green fees.

The Swat Valley becomes more beautiful the higher you go. In mid-winter it is sometimes blocked by snow above Bahrain, but in summer you can drive up beyond Kalam and from there trek north to either the Chitral Valley or the Gilgit Valley. From Khwazakhela, the road across the Shangla Pass to the Karakoram Highway is usually open only from April to December.

Miandam is a small summer resort ten kilometres (six miles) up a steep side valley and 56 kilometres (35 miles) from Saidu Sharif, making it an hour's drive. The metalled road passes small villages stacked up the hillside, the roofs of one row of houses forming the street for the row of houses above. Tiny terraced fields march up the hillside right to the top.
Miandam is a good place for walkers. Paths follow the stream, past houses with beehives set into the walls and good-luck charms whitewashed around the doors. In the graveyards are carved wooden grave posts with floral designs, like those used by Buddhists 1,000 years ago.

Madyan

Madyan is a tourist resort on the Swat River. At 1,321 meters (4,335 feet) above sea level, it is neither as cool nor as beautiful as Miandam, but it is a larger town and has many hotels in all price ranges and some good tourist shopping. Antique and modern shawls, traditional embroidery, tribal jewellery, carved wood and antique or reproduced coins are sold along the main street. This is the last Swati village, offering interesting two-and three-day walks up to the mountain villages... ask in the bazaar in Muambar Khan's shop for a guide. North of Madyan is Swat Kohistan where walking is not recommended without an armed guard.
The central mosque at Madyan has carved wooden pillars with elegant scroll capitals, and its mud-plastered west wall is covered with relief designs in floral motifs. Both bespeak the Swati's love of decoration.

Bahrain is ten kilometres north of Madyan and only slightly higher, at about 1,400 meters (4,500 feet). It is another popular riverside tourist resort, with bazaars worth exploring for their handicrafts. Some of the houses have carved wooden doors, pillars and balconies. These show a remarkable variety of decorative motifs, including floral scrolls and bands of ornamental diaper patterns almost identical to those seen on Buddhist shrines and quite different from the usual Muslim designs.

Kalam, 29 kilometres (18 miles) from Bahrain and about 2,000 meters (6,800 feet) above sea level, the valley opens out, providing rooms for a small but fertile plateau above the river. In Kalam the Ushu and Utrot rivers join to form the Swat river. Here, the metalled road ends and shingle road leads to the Ushu and Utrot valleys. From Matiltan one gets a breath-taking view of the snow-capped Mount Falaksir 5918 meters (19,415 ft.), and another un-named peak 6096 meters (20,000 ft.) high. PTDC offers motel accommodation in Miandam, Kalam and Besham. for booking please contact: PTDC Motels, Ground Floor, Block 4-B, Markaz F-7, Bhitai Road, Islamabad. Tel: (92) (51) 111 555 999.

The valleys of Ushu, Utrot and Gabral beyond Kalam, constitute some of the most beautiful parts of Swat. There is good trout fishing around Utrot. Foreign tourists are advised to contact the local police authorities at Kalam before preceding to the valleys of Ushu, Utrot and Gabral.
Swat is ideal for camping, trekking and mountaineering. Permits are necessary, and can be obtained from the Tourism Division, Government of Pakistan, Markaz F-7, Islamabad.
The waters of the Swat River around Kalam and in the valleys of Ushu and Gabral abound in brown trout. Fishing licenses must be obtained from the office of the Assistant Commissioner, Fisheries at Madyan and Kalam.

Kaghan Valley

The 161 kms long landscape of the Kaghan Valley with its towering Himalayan peaks, peaceful lakes, majestic glaciers and splashing waterfalls is a scenic wonderland, ending northwards in the 4148 meters (13,600 ft) high Babusar Pass, jeep service is available in the valley during summer, while motels and rest-houses offer comfortable accommodation. There is a PTDC stopover Motel in Bellyached and a big tourist resort in Naran which provides excellent accommodation with meals at reasonable rates. It is an ideal area for trekking and trout fishing. The adventure begins in Bellyached, a charming mountain village, from where a road climbs 34 kms up to Shogran. At a height of 2,362 meters, Shogran has thickly forested slopes and grassy meadows, which present an ideal setting for your first stopover.
The raging Kunhar river accompanies the steep winding road which leads to the Kaghan village. This little village, after which the valley has been named, is only 61 kms from Bellyached. Between Kaghan and Naran there is a distance of 25 kms. Naran serves as the base-camp for excursions to other valleys, lakes and peaks.

The Kunhar River and the various lakes offer plenty of fishing opportunities. Both the brown and rainbow trout and the mahasheer are found in abundance. A fishing permit may be obtained from either the Fisheries Department at Naran, or the Trout Hatchery at Shinu. Fishing rods are available at Naran on hire. Guides are also available at Naran.

One of the major attractions of Chitral are the Kalash valleys - the home of the Kafir-Kalash or 'Wearers of the Black Robe', a primitive pagan tribe. Their ancestry is shrouded in mystery. A legend has it that some soldiers of the legions of Alexander of Macedonia settled down in Chitral and the preset Kafir-Kalash are their off-springs.
The 3,000 strong Kafir-Kalash live in the valleys of Birir, Bumburet and Rambur in the south. Bumburet, the largest and the most picturesque valley of the Kafir-Kalash, is 40 kms (25 miles) from Chitral and is connected by a jeepable road. Birir, 34 kms (21 miles) away, is accessible by a jeepable road. Rambur is 32 kms (20 miles) from Chitral. the road is jeepable up to Ayun and the remaining 16 kms (10 miles) have to be travelled on foot.
The Kalash women wear black gowns of coarse cloth in summer and hand-spun wool dyed in black in winter. Their picturesque headgear is made of woolen black material studded with cowries shells, buttons and crowned with a large colored feather. The Kalash are gay people and love music and dancing particularly on occasions of their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (14th & 15th May - Spring), Phool (20th-25th September) and Chowas (18th to 21st December). Foreign tourists require special permits to visit the Kalash valleys. Permits are issued free of cost by the Deputy Commissioner , Chitral.

Garam Chashma (Hot Springs)

Elevation: 1859 meters (6,100 feet). Distance: 45 km (28 miles) north-west of Chitral. By jeep 3 hours. This unspoiled enchanting valley of orchards, verdant fields and snow clad peaks is renowned for its boiling sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists "humams" (baths) have been constructed near the springs. Foreign tourists are requested to pay a toll tax of Rs. 5.00 per person.

elevation: 2743 meters (9,900 feet). distance: 15 km (9 miles). Worth visiting is the fairy-tale summer palace of the ex-ruler perched at a height of 2743 meters (9,000 feet). It offers awe-inspiring views of Trichmir and panoramic vistas of valleys below. The fort is approachable on foot only.

Polo is an equestrian sport with its origin embedded in Central Asia dating as far back as sixth century BC. At first it was training game for Cavalry Units for the King's guards or other elite troops. To the warlike tribesmen who played polo with as many as 100 players to a side it was a miniature battle.
Polo became a Persian national sport played extensively by men as well as women in the sixth century AD. Usually played in front of royal palaces, marble goal posts still stand in front of the palace in Teheran. From Persia the game spread to Arabia, then to Tibet, China and Japan. In China, in the year 910, the death of a favorite relative in a game prompted Emperor A-PAO-CHI to order the beheading of all players.
In the sub-continent polo was introduced by the Muslim conquerors in the thirteenth century. the English work Polo is the Balti word meaning 'Ball'.
There are four players to a side but this is by no means a rule in local polo games. In the past there was no limit to the number of players on each side and no time-limit either. Whichever team scored nine goals first was the winner in all official tournaments. The present game with a team of six players in a side lasts one hour with a ten-minute break.
Gilgit, Chitral and Baltistan have always played the game of polo closest to its original form. In the past the local Rajas, Mirs and Mehtars were the patrons of the game. At times more than 50% of the annual budget of their principalities would be spent on supporting the game of polo.
The first time a polo tournament took place at the Shandur Top was in 1936. A British Political Agent, Major Cobb, who was fond of playing polo under a full moon had the polo ground near Shandur named 'Moony Polo Ground'.

1. Nauroze Polo Tournament, Gilgit (1-7 November every year)
2. Shandur Polo Tournament (second week of July) every year)
3. Chitral Polo Tournament (...?...)
4. Skarud and Khaplu Polo tournament (5-10 September every year)

The most exciting polo tournament of the entire Northern Areas is played on top of the Shandur Pass, almost 4000 meters above sea level, a place unique and exotic in itself surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world. the event marks the annual rivalry between the polo teams of Gilgit and Chitral.
The Shandur Polo Tournament also has some added attractions for the visitors. These include a Golf tournament at the Shandur Golf ground, also reputedly the highest golf ground in the world; a trout fishing competition as the neighboring streams and takes abound with trout; other equestrian events and a festival of folk dances of the Northern Areas. The Shandur Polo Tournament offers much more than an ordinary festival stretching over five days and four nights.
The highlight of all festivals of course remains the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral polo teams. Polo is played here in its original state with a minimum of rules and provides a most colorful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit areas in order to be present at the thrilling Shandur Polo Tournament. The event, as such, provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the ordinary people of these regions. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.
Shandur offers crystal clear lakes, snow covered mountains and alpine flowers amidst vast stretches of green grass. A tourist village comprising tents and restaurant springs up during the tournament. Merchants from Chitral and Gilgit set up Souvenir and Folk craft shops. The tournament offers visitors an opportunity to mix with the locals of these areas.

How to reach Shandur Polo

Access to Chitral by road is either from Peshawar or from Islamabad. Both these routes join up in Swat from where you proceed via Dir over the 3200 meter high Lowari Pass and on to Chitral. Jeep can be hired both at Chitral and Gilgit to finally end up at the Shandur Top. Whether you decide to go through Chitral or through Gilgit you will encounter superb mountain scenery complete with crystal clear waters of Northern Area rivers. From the Chitral side it is certainly worthwhile for travelers to stop at Mastuj for the night. From Gilgit side travelers can stop for the right at Gupis.