COMPASS REPLACEMENT
The original compass that was installed
was a SUNNTO, identical to the one installed on PRESTO. The night time
illumination was not functional and the inside of cabin exhibited
water damage from a leak from around the compass. Most of the
discoloration was limited to just underneath the compass. I decided to
use a Plastimo Contest 100 that I purchased for PRESTO but decided that
it was just a little too big for her. For the Cal9.2 it looked
like a perfect fit. The Contest 100 is no longer made, but the Contest
101 was designed to fit the same cutout. An important fact should the
compass ever need to be replaced. I placed the cut-out template over
the existing hole with three important considerations:
1) Cover as much of the water damage as possible.
2) Make sure that the interior trim ring fits with clearance to
the surrounding trim.
3) Position to allow for additional instrumentation, ST60 series.
TO cut out the new hole I used a medium
cutting blade to minimize splintering on the inside. I coated the jig
saw foot with tape to minimize possible scratching. Make sure that the
blade will cut perpendicular to the surface or you could end up with
the wrong sized hole on the inside!!!!! Carefully follow the template,
while stopping and checking the blade. Once completed, remove the
template from the front and dry fit the compass. If all is well,
lightly sand the cut to clean it up a little, clean and seal with
epoxy. When dry, install the compass. I left the mounting studs
long to allow for a future project of replacing the plastic
inside trim with a wooden one, perhaps out of an exotic wood. The
bulkhead is comprised of two layers and is quite thick ( about 1 1/2
inches) The illumination was an easy connect to the existing
wiring. Be sure that the installation gasket is evenly compressed
to keep out the water.
My plans are to move the ST60 depth gage from the
cockpit area up higher where it is easier to view. It is currently next
to the instrumentation panel for the Yanmar engine. If someone is
sitting on the forward starboard side, their legs are in the way. Also
it is just too far down to take a quick look. The new position will be
to the left of the compass. Additional instrumentation will be a ST6001
Autohelm controller and a ST60- close haul and VMG display. I have the
ST50 version on PRESTO and it works well with the hull speed display.
As you head up your VMG will increase, but your hull speed will
start to decrease as you pinch. Just fall off a little to increase your
hull speed and the VMG will decrease. Just balance between the two and
the results are fantastic.
To install the ST60 depth display to the bulkhead, check the clearance
in the inside as well as the outside. I taped the cut-out template in
place and started a pilot hole before using a 2 1/2 inch hole
saw. Cut 1/2 to 3/4 way through from the front and then lineup
the center drill to the hole that is just poking through and finish
from the inside. Sand the resultant hole a little to smooth the ID
surface. I made a drilling jig for the bolt holes so that the holes
would be as perpendicular as possible. Clean out the holes and seal
with epoxy. I always seal every hole with epoxy. It is a good
habit to develop to protect the core if present.
I used the compass mounting stud to add a wire mount to organize the
cables going to the ST60. It has the power and transducer cables.
For additional instruments, you can daisy-chain the power and SeaTalk
cable, but specialty cables for transducers would have to be added.
The bulkhead is thick enough that the ST60 mounting studs are 1/4 to
1/2 inch too short. I plan to use brass tubing and cut the studs
in 1/2 and use the tubing to extend them by soldering a short
barrel tube splice in the middle of the studs.
I will update this project as it evolves.
10-4-04 Eric Roline
