Story filed 4-25-05

By Edward Lee Pitts
Military Affairs

HALABJA, Iraq -- Soldiers escorting Arabs and Kurds through Kurdistan this weekend said they found an oasis in the deserts of Iraq.

As the convoy of Humvees carrying about 20 troops from the 278th Regimental Combat Team, a Tennessee-based National Guard unit, headed north, the desert sand gave way to green grass as the flat land slowly turned into mountains the size of those in Tennessee, streaked with the remnants of snow. Soon blue rivers and lakes, a rarity in the eastern Diyala province the 278th calls home here, draped themselves around the mountains. The scenery lured the 278th convoy into making several stops for photographs as if the soldiers were enjoying a leisurely Sunday drive.

"This whole country is not at war," said Spc. Matt Shoulders, 28, of Portland, Tenn. "When you come up here, it is just like home."

Called by its people the soul of resistance against Saddam Hussein's Baathist regime policy of forced Arabization in Iraq, Halabja is the site of several clashes between Iraq's old Army and Kurdish freedom fighters. Still giddy after Mr. Hussein's overthrow and the large Kurdish turnout in last January's elections, the Kurds here treated the 278th soldiers Friday as liberating heroes.

Kurds of all ages, not used to the sight of U.S. soldiers in this now-peaceful area, welcomed the 278th troops with smiles, shouts and waves. Kurdish drivers in both directions honked their horns at the passing convoy. Several passengers stuck Kurdish flags out of windows while cheering.

The day of reconciliation between Arabs and Kurds ended with a picnic at a nearby lush public park on a mountain sliced by a river with white water rapids from melting snow creating a force similar to the Ocoee River. As the Humvees crawled up the mountain's narrow dirt road, locals here for an afternoon of enjoyment greeted the soldiers with unreserved enthusiasm. Soldiers said they felt like celebrities with the number of Kurds snapping pictures of each American's every movement.

Several Kurds shouted, "Welcome to Kurdistan" in English.

Others hiking up the mountain accepted invitations to climb aboard the Humvees and enjoy the ride to the top where a waterfall awaited.

"This is like the Clampetts go to the waterfall," said Spc. John Belcher , 20, of Athens, Tenn., referring to "The Beverly Hillbillies" show as he drove his Humvee.

Spc. David Wilford, 27, of Franklin, Tenn., said he had not experienced in his four months here the outpouring of affection such as that shown by the Kurdish people.

"I've never seen Iraqis this happy about anything," he said.

Spc. Phillip McKenzie said he is used to children approaching soldiers, but this is the first place he has seen adults reach out to the Americans. Soldiers took off Kevlar helmets and body armor and enjoyed the day.

"It's a blessing to come here and calm yourself down and not have to look over your shoulder every second," said Spc. McKenzie, 21, of Gallatin, Tenn.

The biggest shock of the day occurred when the 278th soldiers bumped into a pair of American civilian hikers who claimed to have entered Kurdistan through Turkey. Not used to seeing U.S. citizens without uniforms, the 278th soldiers posed for pictures with the hikers from California.

The return trip proved just as enjoyable, the 278th soldiers said.

"This is like small-town U.S.A., said Sgt. Mark Halliday, of Murfreesboro, Tenn. "You can't even drive without waving at people. They are acting like the war just ended yesterday."

E-mail Lee Pitts at lpitts@timesfreepress.com

On the Web: Photos by U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Russell Lee Klika of the 278th Regimental Combat Team are available on the Times Free Press Web site. Visit http://www.timesfreepress.com/kp.

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