Story filed 5-29-05

By Edward Lee Pitts
Military Affairs

CAMP CALDWELL, Iraq -- Spending Memorial Day straddling the line between peacekeeping and combat, soldiers of the 278th Regimental Combat Team see change but expect a long U.S. presence in Iraq.

In December, when Staff Sgt. Richard Spencer rolled into villages here for the first time as a member of the 278th, the Iraqis quickly disappeared into their mud huts.

Last week, as Staff Sgt. Spencer revisited some of the same villages to deliver 2,000-gallon water tanks, the villagers rushed out of their homes to greet the Knoxville resident with smiles and even a few hugs.

"They are not as scared of us anymore," said Staff Sgt. Spencer, 38. "We are winning Iraq one village at a time."

Now in their sixth month in Iraq and roughly halfway through their yearlong deployment in the Middle East, many of the nearly 3,000 Tennessee-based National Guard soldiers here say this area along the Iranian border is on the path toward a better life for its people.

But soldiers in the regiment's three main operating bases also say progress does not mean Americans won't be here awhile yet, supporting Iraq's fledgling government and security forces.

"I don't see a non-U.S. presence here in my lifetime, and I am 54," said Sgt. 1st Class Jeff Landrum, of Decatur, Tenn. "I'm not saying we will always have 150,000 troops (here), but we started this, and we have to finish it."

When the 278th leaves Iraq -- most likely between mid-October and mid-November -- the regiment will be replaced by a smaller contingent of active Army soldiers with the 101st Airborne Division. Some of the bases now occupied by 278th troops may be handed over to Iraqi army units, officials said.

But 278th soldiers say they don't want America to pull out before the job is done. The Iraqis are not ready to go at it alone, 278th soldiers say. And leaving too soon would disrespect the sacrifices of those who have died, including three members of the 278th.

"If we don't stick it out, then we will be back over here again," said Sgt. 1st Class Clay Rader, 44, of Loudon, Tenn.

Soldiers here preach patience, saying it took years to fully establish a democracy in the United States after the American Revolution. And in the wake of World War II, Army forces have been in Germany for more than 60 years.

For the rest of the 278th's deployment, these soldiers expect to continue moving the between peacekeeping and combat.

Soldiers back up the Iraqi army on raids one night and hand out medicine, school supplies, clothes, shoes and toys the next day, according to the regiment's operations officer, Lt. Col. Darrell Darnbush, 42, of Powell, Tenn.

TRAINING IRAQIS

A big part of the rebuilding will continue to revolve around the Iraqi army, a focal point for the regiment since April.

While helping build the Iraqi soldiers' skills, members of the 278th will hand over more and more responsibilities to their Iraqi counterparts. Even base security on the outer perimeter of Kirkush Military Training Base here surrounding Camp Caldwell might be in the hands of the Iraqis, officials said.

"The Iraqis need more training, but you've got to cut the string somewhere," said Spc. Todd Sims, 29, of Chattanooga, who added the Iraqi army needs more up-to-date equipment, such as body armor, and better discipline.

The regiment also is working with Iraqi security forces to drive a wedge between the insurgent intimidation campaign and the average Iraqi civilian.

Spc. Sims and many other soldiers here say insurgents' recent targeting of Iraqis instead of U.S. forces has helped build the growing bond and led to greater cooperation from frustrated civilians.

Though this area of Iraq is just 65 miles from the regular explosions and assassinations still occurring in Baghdad, significant firefights for the regiment here have been rare.

"This is not a war; it is a political action," said Sgt. 1st Class Duane Bunch, 37, of Petros, Tenn., "We are here for the security of the people and the government."

Soldiers with the regiment insist the media's focus on Baghdad gives the U.S. public a distorted view of all of Iraq and makes Americans doubt progress is being made here.

"Anybody who talks like that needs to get a plane ticket and come on over here to visit," said Spc. Joseph Rankin, 31, of Carthage, Tenn.

BUILDING A GOVERNMENT

In addition to security and Iraqi army training, the 278th will spend its remaining time here helping build support for local governments.

While admitting Iraq still faces an uphill battle, many 278th soldiers cited high voter turnout in January's elections as proof there is hope for political success. With a vote ratifying the now-developing Iraqi constitution set for October, the 278th soldiers may be on hand for another historic vote.

The 278th soldiers here say they are not upset at the slow progress of Iraq's national assembly in drafting a constitution.

Lt. Col. Jeff Archer, Support Squadron's commander, said it is better for the Iraqis to debate their own form of democracy than to have U.S. officials insist on government specifics. Still, some 278th soldiers worry tribal and ethnic squabbling may hinder democratic growth.

Entire villages in the last election voted for the same candidate, following the commands of each village's tribal elder, officials said.

"Actual freedom hasn't clicked in their minds yet," said Spc. Adam Shelton, 25, of Greeneville, Tenn. "They are so used to the dictatorship frame of mind."

ECONOMIC HURDLES

Poverty and unemployment still ravage this area of mud hut villages. In the few medium-sized cities, medical supplies are scarce and sewage runs down filthy streets.

But 278th soldiers insist economic problems can't be blamed on U.S. forces.

"The average Iraqi lifestyle hasn't changed much in the last 2,000 years except for cell phones, satellite TVs and automobiles," said Sgt. Tom Troup, 56, of Morristown, Tenn.

Sgt. Troup said he once watched an Iraqi haul fuel in a donkey cart so he could power up his generator and watch television using a satellite dish on the roof of his mud hut.

This makes the economy the biggest long-term hurdle here in the minds of many soldiers. A transition to a free market system is stymied as Iraqis continue to expect the government to take care of all their needs, soldiers say.

"The main reason we are here is because Saddam Hussein ruined this country," said Spc. Jason Baker, 24, of Red Bank. "I don't think it will ever be as bad as it was under Saddam Hussein. I think they've seen the worst."

But job creation and money management must come from the Iraqis and not U.S. sources, said Spc. Dan Hendy, 46, of Cleveland, Tenn.

"They have to start producing some sort of revenue," he said. "We are paying everybody now, and that can't last."

However, several soldiers like Staff Sgt. Jeff Ball have enough confidence in Iraq's future economic prospects to invest in the country's new Iraqi dinars. Staff Sgt. Ball said he spent $700 on a million dinars in hopes that a jump in the exchange rate would increase his investment by tens of thousands of dollars one day.

"I have friends here now, and I would like to see Iraq succeed," he said.

DIVERSITY AND TENSION

U.S. soldiers here say they fear efforts to spread money around will not overcome tensions surrounding the diversity of this region.

The area's mix of Kurds, Arabs and Turkomen will continue to make life difficult for many, 278th soldiers said. In addition, Sunni and Shiite squabbles within the Arab community have Capt. Steven Turner, of Knoxville, comparing 21st century Iraq to the gangs that battled in New York during the 19th century.

The often-violent rivalry extends down to the military, where Kurdish soldiers manning a checkpoint often stop only vehicles driven by Arabs; Arab troops, meanwhile, prefer to detain Kurds, said Lt. Steven Mosher, 36, of Pleasant View, Tenn.

And some civilians are getting a weary of martial law that often disrupts life in the form of roadblocks, checkpoints and U.S. vehicles that dominate the streets by staying in the middle of the road to avoid roadside bombs.

"I can't tell you how many times in the past week Iraqis have asked me when are we going home," said Spc. Robert Wog, 36, of Lebanon, Tenn. "I say, 'As soon as I can.' They are ready."

Sometimes U.S. soldiers send mixed messages by visiting a village to hand out items one day and then returning soon after to raid the huts for insurgents, Sgt. 1st Class Landrum said.

LOOKING AHEAD

As many Iraqi adults are growing restless, 278th soldiers say the children here are the greatest hope for Iraq.

The young people's welcome to Americans here has surprised many in the regiment. Children, often barefoot but smiling in the midst of profound poverty, run to approaching American convoys the way children in America dart after ice cream trucks.

The children are learning English phrases such as "thank you" and gestures such as the thumbs-up sign, both of which they use relentlessly in attempting to land items from stuffed animals and pencils to sunglasses and watches worn by the soldiers.

"Our goal is to influence the children," Lt. Mosher said. "These people don't see us as the great Satan anymore. We have dispelled a lot of myths."

Sgt. Chad Haines said Iraq has calmed down a lot since he served here during the initial U.S. invasion from April 2003 to May 2004.

In 2003, convoys rarely left bases without getting shot at or having a roadside bomb blow up, said Sgt. Haines, who volunteered to return. Today, he said, he sees more construction, better roads and greater interaction between Americans and Iraqis.

"Imagine if this works the kind of impact it will have in the Middle East," said Sgt. Haines, 32, of Sparta, Tenn. "It is worth a try no matter what happens. It could change the face of the world."

E-mail Lee Pitts at lpitts@timesfreepress.com

On the Web: Photos by U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Russell Lee Klika of the 278th Regimental Combat Team are available on the Times Free Press Web site. Visit http://www.timesfreepress.com/kp

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