Journals Continued
Page 4
March 3: Hot Springs NC.: 15 miles: 255.6 Total:
I left Roaring Fork Shelter at 7:35 AM in a cold drizzle. It's hard to dress for that situation. If I wear my raingear I sweat a lot and if I don't wear raingear I freeze when I stop, or the wind blows. I walked through pine forest most of the day which resulted in a pine needle covered path. The trail was relatively flat without the typical rocks and roots jutting up. As the trail approaches Hot Springs you have a very good veiw of the town from above. It gave me an opportuniy to see the complete street layout and all the buildings. The trail goes right down the main street of the town. As I emerged from the woods I heard someone shouting, I looked up and saw this big guy waving me up to his place. Turns out he was the owner of the local hostel and looking for customers. I decided to walk downtown to the local motel, which was more centrally located giving me access to the laundry, post office, and food. I'm sitting here drinking a Bud Lite, first beer I've had since leaving home. This week my son had a serious injury at his job. Tonight I talked with him and typical of his character, he didn't make a big thing of it. He's been a strong person all his life. I'm very proud of my childern. They both have very strong and caring characters. I miss both of them and I especially miss their mother who is my best friend and advocate. The most difficult thing about this hike is not being with her. Tomorrow I will continue to dry out and clean-up. I bought some shoe goop (glue) that will hopefully seal up my boot soles and slow down the separation. My next stretch of trail is 70 miles to Erwin, TN. I will carry six days of supplies and hope that's enough. I have gear hanging over everything in this room. It's 9:20 PM - late for me these days.... Later.
March 4: Hot Springs NC: 0 miles: 270.3 total:
I'm staying at the Alpine Court Motel. It's a rainy, but pleasantly mild day. I have cleaned and repaired my gear. My boots have taken a beating and show it. The side soles are separating from the boot and a large chunk of my left heal is breaking out. I hope they have another 275 miles left in them. My wife has contacted the retailer, who has contacted the manufacturer of my boots and they will have a new pair waiting for me when I go home in March. This is a very small town with a lot of high school age boys hanging around looking crusty. (very strange) Tomorrow, I hope to get my mail drops and be on the trail early Tuesday morning. Yesterday was the first time in a month I saw the whole of me. I think I'm losing weight and feel stronger. I have no physical issues with the exception of a sinus infection. My body is working better than I had expected. The constant pounding has damaged some nerves in my feet, but that's probably temporary. I ate a huge breakfast and am looking forward to dinner. I'm clean and dry which is my main objective these days. I hope everything's well with all my friends and family. Later...
March 5: Hot Spring NC.: Apline Court Motel,
The Northeast part of this country is getting hit hard by a North Easterly storm, and we're feeling the effects here. We're on the edge so shouldn't be to bad but the upper elevations, where I hope to go tomorrow, is starting to look pretty darn white. We are experiencing rain, snow, sleet, and a hard, cold wind. Being from a cold climate, I'm not real concerned about snow, but the locals have strongly suggested that I stay in town for a couple of days and let this weather play out. I took their advice and will stay one extra day.
March 7: Spring Mountain Shelter: 11miles: 281.5 total:
More bad weather and a delayed package kept me in Hot Springs an additional day. This time there was a serious storm with ice, snow, and wind. I left town at 7:00 AM in cold but dry conditions. I could see snow in the high mountains but didn't think much about it. As soon as you leave Hot Springs the trail climbs a very steep mountain. (the area of the trail is called Lovers' Leap) Very steep with lots of short switch-backs. There were three of us waiting out the weather, "Tacoma Dan", "Braveheart", and me. "Tacoma Dan" made it to the shelter but haven't seen "Braveheart". The climb out of Hot Springs wasn't bad but the higher I got the more snow I started to experience. Soon I was walking in snow about 6 inches deep with two foot drifts. I got to the shelter about 2:00 PM and settled into my sleeping bag for a little nap. After a while I heard brush, big brush, snapping and thought I might get to see some wildlife. I got my wish. Up on a small hill over the shelter, I saw a hiker breaking up branches for a fire, so I walked up to say hello. I tried to have a conversation with this guy but I'm afaird he'd been in the woods way too long. He was an angry, long-haired, full bearded, needed a dentist bad, dirty, nasty, fellow about 30ish. After a brief conversation, I retreated to the safety of the shelter, kept an eye on this guy, and hoped that someone else would show up that night. As it turned out along with "Tacoma Dan, two additional section hikers stayed here, so at least we outnumber the grinch on the hill. It's getting late and it's time to eat and go to bed. My new cell phone did not work from this shelter. Hope it's just the area and not the phone. Later..
March 8: Little Laurel Shelter: 8.6 miles: 290 total:
I got on the trail about 8:00 AM. It was really hard to get out of my sleeping bag this morning. I started out in 6 inches of snow with 2 foot drifts and descended down the mountain. The snow diminished as I got lower but all the brush and small trees had snow on them and dropped down my back.. It's hard walking up or down mountains with wet snow on the trail and makes for slow going. I met a section hiker, going my way, just prior to getting to this shelter. I stopped for lunch, fully intending to continue on for a few more miles and tenting it, but after a short time he returned rather frustrated at the trail conditions. He said he managed to get about a mile and half before turning back. (He had intended to walk to a fire tower about three miles from the shelter) He said he was "post hole" most of the way and stomping down snow drifts so his dog could get through. That's all I needed to hear. I unpacked my sleeping stuff, did a little gear drying, and made myself at home. I'm thinking tomorrow might be a long day with short miles. It's early yet so I'll make a good dinner tonight. I expect "Tacoma Dan" to come along this afternoon. Funny thing: I don't think that "Tacoma Dan's name is Dan and he's not from Tacoma. I don't get it.. Later..........
March 9: Flint Mountain Shelter: 12.6 miles 303 total
Snow! Snow! Snow!.... I started out early going up with yesterday's 6 inches and two foot drifts that over night had established a nice hard crust. For about the first mile and a half I followed the section hikers trail, which was really great and helped me a lot, after that it was my turn to post hole. (Post holing is when you step on the crusty snow and break through). I did this most of the morning. On the warm side of the mountain the trail had started to show bare spots, but the cold side is where the wind had come from and had a lot of snow. I ended up with very wet boots but had a couple hours of sun after getting to the shelter so it helped dry out a little. It's dark and I'm in my bag finishing my journal writing while "Tacoma Dan" plays his guitar. Can't believe his fingers are working at this temperature. It's cold tonight. Made sandwiches for tomorrow and am ready to go..Today was hard work but the mountain was beautiful with all the snow.
March10: Hogback Ridge Shelter: 8.7 miles:311.4 total:
The trail guide said that today's hike would be harder than the contour maps would indicate and he was right. Still snow on the cold side of the mountains but the warm side is melting fast. Today's walk (and yesterdays come to think of it), took me past isolated grave sites. They had colorful plastic flower bouquets sticking up through the snow. The grave sites were really old but somebody still cares for them. About noon I met six guys on four wheel drive all-terrain bikes tearing up the old logging roads. It looked like fun. They said "Jump on the back and we'll get you up this mountian fast." I was tempted. They did help me a lot by packing the snow and knocking down the drifts. Still no leaves on the trees so I'm walking through forests that offer some views. Big news!! I used my cell phone and got through to my family. It's the strangest thing to stand in the middle of nowhere and be talking to someone on the phone. Anyway, I'm glad it works. Makes me feel like the investment in weight was worth it. I cleaned my boots and have them sitting in the sun. Most of the clothes I wear during the day and my night stuff is all hanging over brush getting the benefit of the warm afternoon sun. This shelter is pretty high on the mountain which means the sun will be with us for awhile. Tonight is suppose to be cold but tomorow it's going to warm up a little. I hope tomorrow night is also warmer. Today I met a large group (12) of people about my age with the exception of the last guy in the line. He was 87 years young and had a quadruple by-pass operation less than a year ago. He got tears in his eyes when he told me and thanked the Lord for his life. His story touched me and I left with tears in my eyes. Tonight it's me and "Tacoma Dan" so far. Hope to be in Erwin TN by Monday night. Better start dinner. Hope everthings well with ya-all.. Later
March 11: No Business Knob Shelter: 20.6 miles: 332 total:
Long day. It's 7:15 PM and very dark. I'm writing this using my headlight and tonight I don't have to use gloves. (hard writing with gloves on) What a day. I started from Hogback Shelter at 7:20am. I left "Tacoma Dan" warm in his sleeping bag. He likes to have a hot breakfast. When I get up all I want is to get on the trail and warm up. I typically have a breakfast bar "pop up" and a liter of water. I have two sandwiches ready for lunch and 4-6 candy/energy bars that I eat during the day. Sometimes early in my hike I'll have mixed dried fruit and/or gorp. (gorp is m&m's, nuts, raisins, etc. mixed together) I eat all day and will typically drink one liter of water per hour. Today the weather was perfect but prediction for tomorrow is heavy rain so I made the best of it today. I left last night's shelter, which is on the warm side of the mountain with little or no snow. I climbed up for an hour and then descended to Sams Gap, a major highway crossing. After Sams Gap, at elevation 3820 feet I climbed on the cold side of the mountain, through 6 inches of snow and drifts, up to Bald Mountain at elevation 5516 feet. The view was unbelievable. I could clearly see Mount Mitchell (at elevation 6684 feet) the highest peak east of the Mississippi. I crossed over the bald and descended on the cold side of the mountain through snow covered forests which made it really hard to find the trail. (note: One person had been through and I could just make out his track so that helped, but he had gotton lost a few times, so I didn't have a great deal of confidence in his trail. I spent a lot of time searching and back tracking to find the trail. (The trail is marked with a 2 inch by 5 inch white strip painted on trees which are called blazes) Blazes are all I use to find my way. The problem is they are few and far between which can cause a little fustration once in awhile. The snow was wet slush and very slippery. I basically skied down the mountain without skies. About halway down the mountain the trail turned to the warm side and the snow disappeared and my world got a lot better. I spent the remaing hours on mostly dry paths. I had one more big climb out of Spivey Gap and a few hours winding around a beautiful mountain in late afternoon shadows. I arrived at No Business Shelter at 6:15 PM. I had traveled 20.6 miles, crossed over two mountains in a little over 11 hours. I stopped for water three times, and twice to put on dry socks. I ate while walking and basically ran/slid down the descents and crawled up the ascents. I'm tired and having peanut butter and honey sandwiches on flattened hamburger buns for supper. ( the very last of my food). Tomorrow I'm going into Erwin TN. and have decided to head home from there. I have been struggling with a sinus infection for at least the last month and am starting to feel pretty bad. My nose has one continious cut between my nostrils that won't heal up because I keep having to wipe it. I think I need to see a doctor soon. Later..
March 12: Uncle Johnny's Hostel: 6 miles: 338 total:
Last night I was alone at the shelter. This morning I was completely out of food. The weather looked and smelled like rain so I got up and beat it to Erwin. I'm staying at a hostel ($10.00/night). Tomorrow morning Uncle Johnny is going to shuttle me to the Greyhound bus depot for my trip back to Minneapolis. I had plane reservation from Roanoke Va. but Northwest wanted another $1000.00 for the change so I decided I had more time than money. Anyway, with my current look I'll fit right in on the bus. I'm clean, warm and getting ready to order dinner. It looks like I'm here alone tonight. This room has nine bunks and just me. I'm anxious to see my family. Missing them has turned out to be my biggest issue. It's a great problem to have. Later.....
March 18, 2001: Long Lake, Minnesota:
Uncle Johnny , of the local hostel in Erwin, TN. shuttled me to the Greyhound bus depot in Johnson City, TN. (I had plane reservations from Roanoke VA. for March 31, but Northwest wanted an additional $1000.00 for the date change so I decided to give the bus a try.) From Johnson City,TN. I traveled to Knoxville, TN. During the trip to Knoxville a semi-truck carrying taco shells flipped on it's side about 1/2 mile in front of us, blocking the entire divided highway and creating a horrendous traffic jam. It took the police and ambulance 20 minuets to arrive. Surpisingly, we arrived in Knoxville in time to catch my next bus to Cincinnati, OH. At Cincinnati we changed buses and headed for Indianapoli, IN. where we transfered to a bus bound for Chicago, IL. We arrived in downtown Chicago about 12:30 AM where our bus was hit be a semi-truck. We were about four blocks from the bus depot, but it was recommended that we stay with the bus. While waiting for the traffic police, we witnessed undercover police bust a couple of guys on the other side of the street. The police ended up handcuffing the two bad guys and taking them away. (It was darn exciting). We changed buses in Chicago and stayed with that coach into Minneapolis, arriving at 10:45 AM. All totaled the trip took 25 hours, and cost $116.00 with my "senior" Greyhound discount, and I met some interesting people.
My sister-in-law, Kathy Jansen, asked what specifically I ate during my hike. My food stuff sack is 8" in diameter and 18" high. The maximum food I carried was for 7 days which included: Bagels and/or pita bread, (I would stand on the bagels to reduce the size, basically removing the air from the bread) I carried a block of Kraft cheese and a stick of summer sausage, several freeze dried dinners designed for backpacking, (the dinner stated a two person serving), a small plastic jar of peanut butter, a small plastic jar of flavored honey. Lipton makes packets of noodles, which I would carry a couple of, always several packets of roman noodles, and several breakfast bars like "pop-tarts".
Day snacking is vital to maintaining energy, so I would carry candy bars, energy bars, gorp, mixed dried fruit, stuff like that. I also carried instant coffee, little packets of salad dressing, and mustard for my sandwiches. My daily eating went something like this. In the morning, as I was putting my gear together, I would eat a pop-tart and drink a liter of water. During the morning I would continously snack on candy bars, dried fruit or energy bars that I kept in a pouch at my waist. Lunch would be two sandwiches, which looked funny because the bread was flattened and the ingredients were abundant. Again during the afternoon I would snack untill I arrive at my destination. Dinner would be a sandwich or roman noodles as soon as I could dig out my food sack (I would be starving by this time). Followed by a lipton or freeze dried dinner, bread, and coffee and/or Swiss-miss chocolate drink. Early in my trip I would probably have a snack before going to bed but as my supplies ran down I would save all snacking for the trail. I drank several liters of water a day. (Maybe about a liter an hour) that's about it.
At two shelters I found bags of food hanging from mouse proof hangers. One had potatoes and a can of tuna fish that the attached note said was "hiker stew". The other was left by a trail maintenance crew, which included several apples, a few small boxes of raisins, and a bunch of small size snickers candy bars. This act of kindness and generosity is called "Trail Magic".
My Learings:
My goal, as I set out on this adventure, was to complete the entire Appalachian Trail in one season. This is called thru-hiking. The alternative to thru-hiking and still completing the entire trail is call section hiking. Section hiking can be done over several years making it somewhat more appealing for people that have lives.
I'm not completely sure of what I thought hiking the Appalachian Trail was going to be like, but I can tell you what my limited hike was like, and how I felt about it. I started in early February so that my time off the trail (my break in late March) wouldn't effect ny completion date. The net effect of this early start was two fold:
1. The weather was more winter like than I had anticipated. The daytime temperatures (in the mountains) were typically in the high thirties or low fourties, and the nights were in the low teens or single digits. Add rain or snow to these temperatures and the effect seems to make it colder.
2. In addition to the colder temperatures was the lack of other hikers. I found myself alone most of my six weeks in the mountains.
My anticipation or vision of the Appalachian Trail was of a rural trail what was well maintained and basically a well-established footpath. That's true for a great deal of the trail, but not all of it. Some parts of the trail, especially in the beginning, becomes somewhat technical and dangerous. Hypothermia is always a constant concern at those temperatures, so keeping dry is essential. These situations concerned me mainly because of the lack of other hikers and the ability to get help if I were injured. As time went on, and as I found myself getting stronger and more competent at walking the trail these fears diminished. I did have Midge mail me a cell phone for safety reasons, which I didn't want previously, due to added weight.
My Yugoslavian and Finish ancestors, through my genetic make-up, provided me with a stronger body than I had anticipated. The trail will test every part of your physical make-up and is especially hard on your knees and back. Early in my hike, my body protested constantly, but as time went on it started getting stronger, allowing me to cover more miles, faster. My weight never changed much but redistributed a little. My butt got smaller and my arms and shoulders got stronger. I netted out gaining strength and having no physical issues. I believe that I can physically hike the Appalachian Trail as well as anyone.
I left the trail two week earlier than I had planned, for what I anticipated then, and proved to be , a sinus infection. At times I would feel fine, and other times, especially towards the end, when I was approaching ErwinTN., I felt weak and rundown. I didn't want to go on our vacation sick so I opted to come home and get well prior to our family trip. I'm currently on antibiotics for my infection. The retailer I bought my boots from has provided me with a new pair, which they now have in their stretching equipment. I shipped my sleeping bag back to the manufacure for repair and cleaning and should have it back in a week or two.
As you have probably picked up I have been talking about my hike in the past tense. I have decided that I will become a section hiker of the Appalachian Trail versus a thru-hiker. It's not an easy decision for me beacuse I feel like I have failed at my objective, which I have.These are my rationalizations:
I didn't like being alone as much as I was. I think that would change somewhat as the temperatures started to warm, but I'm still ahead of the main group of seasonal hikers.
I enjoyed the physical and scenic aspects of the trail, but as a constant activity over several months, it would get stale or boring.
Finanically, this is not an inexpensive thing to do. Equipment aside, the cost of maintaining myself on the trail runs into the thousands of dollars. I have decided that this money would be better spent on family type activities.
Now this is the real reason! I am hopelessly in love with my wife and family. Being away from her or them for the time required to walk the entire trail became unacceptable to me.
I'm looking forward to next spring when I can return to Erwin TN. and resume my walk as a section hiker. I think a month to six weeks would be acceptable, allowing me the rest of the year to be with my wife and family, whom are the primary focus of my life. I intend to take hiking trips on the Superior Hiking Trail this spring, summer and fall, time permitting. If anyone would like to come along on a few day trip contact me through my E-mail address and be prepared to tolerate my dog, Otis.
do-wa-diddy
Feb 5, 2002
Long Lake, Minnesota
It's time for me to head back to the trail. Yesterday I started getting my gear together and making reservations.
I'm getting ahead of myself. July of 2000 I retired from a business I had spent 38 years doing. It was an interesting transition and a transition it was. The single thing I found thru-hikers on the Appalachian Trail had in common, was that we were all in life changing events. Me, I was starting a new life outside of the parameters of the business world. I met other that were suffering through divorces and family deaths. One newly wed couple and a few new graduates, things like that. I completed my transition and am continuing my renaissance. Now I'm one laid back do-wa-diddy, and happy to have crossed over.
One more personal thing and I'll get back to the trip. Last Summer my wife, while studying her genealogy on Genealogy.com, punched in my dad's name (I've been looking for him, off and on, most of my adult years) and got a hit for information on him. She followed the hits back to a person asking for information on him. The short version! I have known I had a sister since she was 8 months old But not being able to locate our father I couldn't find her. I had pretty much given up looking when my wife discovered the internet inquiry. I followed up by returning the E-mail request with "I think your my sister" My sister lives in Texas with her family. We E-mail, write, exchange pictures, and hope to meet someday soon.
Back to my walk: Honestly, I get hungry just thinking about going back. Last week I made reservations that will fly me to Knoxville Tn. I'll take a Greyhound to Johnson City Tn. and be shuttled to "Uncle Johnny's" hostel located in Erwin Tn. Erwin is a beautifully small community located along the Nolichucky River in the Nolichucky River Gorge.(history has it that the Erwin area was frequented by Davy Crockett and a young Andrew Jackson for frontier gatherings). When you are North bound on the trail and you first see Erwin, you can see your feet at the same time. Your high in the mountains and because Erwins in a gorge your looking straight down. Great for picture taking.
I left the trail (last March) from Johnny's so that's where I'll start. It'll take me about seven to ten days to reach Damascus Va. Damascus is the consummate trail town. (the trail goes right through town). In mid-May Damascus celebrates a yearly event called trail days. I expect it's liken to the old Rocky Mountain "Rendezvous" that the mountain men would celebrate. It's a big deal with a grand parade that everybody marches in. Im told that if your on the trail during this time its worth shuttling to Damascus for the event. It sounds like a hoot. Back to the trail: I can't find the exact elevation of Erwin but its about 1500'. The first few days I will climb to just over 6000' and cross over Roan Mountain. At this time of year it will be a little nippy up there but hopefully no big snows. I expect ice so will carry my crampons. My first opportunity for re-supply will be in the town of Elk Park NC. (It's a few miles off the trail so will stick out my thumb while walking down the road)It's about 50 trail miles to Elk Park. Then its on to Breamar Chastle Hostel, about thirty trail miles, and then Damascus, maybe about forty more miles. My trail guide indicates I'll be at about 4000' most of the time, which shouldn't be to bad if the weather behaves. Storms coming out of the Gulf can be harry but mostly ice and little snow. Last year we were hit by a North Easterly storm coming off the Atlantic through Maine which was very cold and lots of snow. "snow depths that created post-hole walking" very hard to walk in. I will continue walking North until I get tired or late March.
My gear is pretty much what I used last year with the exception of a bavalca (sp). It's a hood type head cover that covers your whole head and face leaving just your eyes uncovered. Mine has an additional small netted opening for breathing. One very cold night last winter, while on the trail, I synched my sleeping bag hood up so that all that was uncovered was my nose and mouth. (my bag is very snug. I have to sleep with my arms at my side. Very hard to get used to). Sometime during the night I turned my head inside the hood and woke not being able to breath. My mind was just screaming. I managed to calm myself and snake my hand up the bag and search for the cord release button. Call me stupid, but I had to experience that one more time before I change my sleeping style. Just the smallest opening in your sleeping bag, at those temperatures, and you get really cold. Now with my new head covering I hope to survive my mummy bag.
Last year on February 5th was my second day walking the Appalachian Trail. I would like to think I've come a long way since then (no pun intended). Last year being alone in the mountains for extended periods freaked me. This year I don't expect to see anyone so if I do, Its all the better. This year I'm stronger and lighter so I hope that translates into a more comfortable walk. I hate to think about leaving my wife, and almost didn't go because of that but being the good sport she is, she said "buck up and get out there" so I'm going. I'll send my journals home and Midge will enter them.
Imagine, standing on top of a mountain that you've spent days getting to, looking back over the mountain ranges you've already traveled and forward to the ranges you will be traveling to.... It's quite a heady experience
Grace and Peace
do-wa-diddy
2/9/02 - Knoxville Greyhound Bus depot.
So far, so good. It's 12:20pm and my bus to Johnson City leaves at 1:10pm. My flight to Detroit was great. I upgraded to first. Detroit to Knoxville was an airlink jet, small but nice. Comining into Knoxville I could see the Appalachians and didn't see any snow. Good sign I think. An observation: Interesting people take the bus. A bus just loaded up and pulled out, creating a little excitement. Now I expect we'll get back to quietly looking at each other.
2/10/02 - Uncle Johnny's Hostel - Erwin TN.- 1750'
Arrived in Johnson City on schedule and was met by John Shores (alias Uncle Johnny) and his wife of 8 months Charlotte. It was a beautiful day with temps in the high 50's. I stayed the night in a single room instead of the larger hostel area that would sleep 10+. I'm the only person staying here so it wouldn't make sense to try and heat the larger area. I have a new friend named Hillary after the famous mountian climber "Sir Hillary" of Mt. Everest fame. She's a two year old black and white cat. I'm having a little trouble keeping her out of my room. She paws everthing. Late last night I had to answer natures call, and when I returned, and had climbed back into my sleeping bag, Hillary's head popped up from the rumpled bedding. She's a cutie and very friendly. John said hikers feed her tuna....
This morning it was raining so I decided to spend another night here and organize. I feel a little out of balance with my gear. I just need to spend a little more time finding the right places to put everything. I used a bike that Johnny provided and went into town for lunch. Exciting ride. The bike barely had brakes. I feel like I'm coming down with something so one more night might help. I never get sick, except when I'm up here. I expect it'll take 10 days to get to Damascus. I'll try and get an early start tomorrow morning.
2/11/02 - Deep Gap (12 miles - 4120')
I started on the trail at day break. The first few miles the trail follows the Nolichucky River, which is fairly level, and turns "up". Johnny's deck is at 1750'above sea level. At about 9:30am and five miles later I arrived at Curly Maple Gap shelter (3070'). I took a short break and continued on. The weather was cloudy with snow showers most of the day. Tonight I'm tenting at Deep Gap (4120') It's a camping area located on a jeep trail, which I don't like, so I have hiked a little further up the trail and found a level spot in the woods. As last year, I'm walking in leafless, open forests. As I was a approaching area called "beauty spot"(great scenic views)I spotted a skunk coming down the trail. I was going north and he/she was south. The Trail was kind of wide in this area allowing me to spot my new friend from a distance. I started yelling and banging my hiking stick together to get his/her attention. She/he responded by turning around and heading back up the trail. My new friend stayed on the trail almost to the top of the bald, with me following and making all the noise I could. Finally he/she turned and headed into the brush. I hurried by, not wanting to get sprayed. I have to admit it was kind of cute the way that little skunk's butt bounced up the trail.
I'm at the base of Unaka Mountain. I just couldn't get myself to cross over this afternoon. There's a shelter about five miles further but I just don't have the strength to get there. Hope to go 12 more miles tomorrow and sleep at Clyde Smith shelter. Still think I'll tent it. (it's warmer). My friend and son-in-law Andy asked me why I walk the trail this early in the year. I said because it's when I have the time. I think I'll reconsider my timing. It's really cold up here this year. I'm told it's roughly 5 degress colder for every 1000' in elevation. Last year on 2/4/01 I started from Springer Mountain in Georgia and I don't remember it being this cold. I love the mountains and living in Minnesota hasn't anesthetized me to their beauty. Sun's going down and it's getting much colder. I have to answer natures call one more time (I hope) and get in my bag for the night. It's 6:00pm, and hopefully I'm in here for the next twelve hours.
2/12/02 Cherry Gap Shelter (4.3 miles - 3900')
Big day. I walked 4.3 miles. Went up 1100' and down 1250'. I'm out of sink with the shelters. (which means, at this point, I can just make it from shelter to shelter and not much further). I'm disappointed with myself, but I have to remember I'm starting over this year. My conditioning has to improve before I can expect to achieve the mileage I ended with last year. I like staying at shelters, even if I tent, because of the convenince of a flat surface to work off, and a normally convenient water source, also the opportunity of possible company. I'm trying to set myself up for Roan Mountain (6300')for the day after tomorrow, so I want to stay at the shelter just before Roan. I can sure tell I haven't hiked in a year. I can't do the mileage I did last year so 10 days to Damascus might be a little optimistic. The temperature guage on the shelter says just under 40 degrees at 1:01pm, a real heat wave. It's sunny, clear, and no wind, with the only sounds being a very busy woodpecker. Last night was cold. I tried my new balaclava head cover and gave up on it. It might work for biking but not for sleeping. I could hardly breathe through it, so I'm back to my suffocation technique. My sleeping bag is not as restrictive as I remembered. I can fold my arms across my chest and move around a little. I think I get into touble when the bag gets twisted, during the night. One other thing. My sleeping bag is rated for 20 degrees. That's not warm enough for this time of the year. I do have an adjustable "warmth" feature that I can use. If I shake all the down around the bag so all the goose down is on top of me when I'm laying down it's a little warmer. If I roll over during the nightand the full part of the bag goes with me , whatever part of my body is exposed to the non-down part gets cold and I quickly awake and re-arrange myself. Going up Unaka Mountain this morning was slow but beautiful. On top was a great stand of red spruce. Now, going down was something else. Lots of large rocks with big steps. If one had knee problems that decent would have hurt. I need to get water. I think I'll have a big lunch and small dinner. What really hurts is that late night pee. It takes me, what seems like, a half hour to warm up again..It's 2:35pm and I think I'll forgo my lunch and have an early dinner. There's a good spring here, which to me, means it's probably safe to drink without treatment, but I'll treat it anyway. Tonight I'm going to set my alarm (watch). Seems kind of silly, being I sleep with ear plugs, but I over slept this morning. I like to be walking at dawn. some time ago my son Shawn gave me a great book. I have been waiting for that perfect time to sit back, relax and enjoy the pros of "William Least Heat-Moon's" "blue highways" (It's a journey into America via the back roads. Blue highways are the secondary roads on road maps. He talks about the places he goes and the people he meets). This afternoon is that perfect time. I expect more from my body. I think it's my age (58 in a couple of weeks). I seem to be struggling more than I should be. There's snow on the cold side and the top of the mountains. I saw small deer tracks this morning and dog sized tracks, maybe a cat stalking the deer. Well that's it, I'm going to cook dinner "mashed potatoes and country gravy with turkey". I can't understand why this stuff tastes do bad. The ingredients sound good. Later...........
2/13/02 - Clyde Smith Shelter ( 9 miles - 4500')
Today was a bit easier but I'm still beat. Last nights temps's started out bearable but during the night a front must have come through dragging the colder air with it. It got windy and colder. The mountains seem to make their own weather. The winds in the mountains sound different than at home. The sounds start with kind of a low rumble that builds to a primitive howling. Tonight and tomorrow I'm going to tank up on water in prepration for my travels over Roan. Tomorrow I'll start with a 2.5 mile hike to the base of Roan Mountain, which will put me at about 4000'. Than another 2.5 miles will put me on top of Roan at 6300'. I'll be a huffin and a puffin. I actually got through to Midge with my cell phone. (got our answering machine , but at least she knows I'm still alive.) I've been trying to call home from everyplace I stop but can't get a signal. Sprint!! Last night I put leaves around the bottom of my tent. I think it keeps it a bit warmer. The local weatherman is predicting colder temps for tonight. I found some black plastic under the shelter and will put it around the bottom of my tent, in the hope it will hold in some heat, and keep out the wind. Hope it helps. Can't hurt!! Most of the day was ridge walking. I saw a deer and I flushed something, Sounded just like a grouse. I wonder if they have grouse down here? If I have to sleep on top of Roan tomorrow night I'm going to freeze to death. I bet it'warmer in Minnesotan now than here. If I were to start walking around Minnesota and camping out in these temps I would make the newspapers and probably be taken into custody "for my own wefare". My plan is to get up and over this mountian as fast as I can. Somebody is working their hounds tonight. Their howling really carries through the valleys. Hearing the dogs adds a little comfort to this remoteness. I haven't seen a soul since Erwin TN. Suns going down so have to pack it in ...... Later............
2/14/02 - Overmountain Shelter (12 miles - 4650')
Today was my challange for this section hike. I got up at 5:30am (it takes me 1.5 hours to pack up eat something and get to walking. Way to long) It's light enough to start out around 6:45am. My water has been freezing at night but not completely. I had a pop-up and ice water for breakfast and got going. Five hours and five miles later I was standing on top of Roan Mountain. The weather was perfect. Blues skies and no wind. Lots of snow and ice with a magnificent view in all directions. I felt like I should "almost" be able see Minnesota and the Gulf of Mexico. Roan Mountain is a state park that actually has a road up it. The trail goes up the opposite side of the mountain and theres probably a reason for that. Now, wouldn't you think that on the top of one of the highest mountains along the Appalachian Mountain Range I could get a cell phone signal? No way.. Sprint!! Going up Roan was slow. Towards the top, the trail is narrow and confining, with fur trees and bigs rocks. You have to weave your way up and around. The sun gets through enough to melt some of the snow on the rocks making for a nice smooth layer of ice on the rocks. My crampons were at the bottom of my pack so I didn't dig them out, but I should have. There's a shelter on top of Roan, (old log cabin with a loft and door) it's the highest shelter on the Appalachian trail, but way to cold to even consider staying there. Going down the back side was icy and tricky. The actual trail, which is about 24"-36" wide, was covered with a nice crust of snow about 1"-2" inches thick. Under that was a solid layer of ice. It felt and looked like you had good footing only to experience one of those heart-stopping slips. Consider that you have a 50# weight on your back, creating a momentum that's difficult to control when you suddenly shift your weight. Again, I should have put on my crampons but didn't. Up to this time I have been very careful not to fall. During this decent I fell twice. The consequence of hurting yourself could and would be very serious. You quite likely would not survive. The first time I fell I hurt my wrist, and got lucky the second time when my pack hit first and wedged between a stump and a rock keeping me from sliding. I arrived at Overmountain Shelter at 4:00pm. A continuous 10 hours, stopping only to get water, take pictures, and adjust my boots. Get this! This shelter is an old read barn with a spectacular view of the valley below. My guide book said that they filmed the movie "Winter People" here, with Kurt Russell, Kelly McGillis, and Lloyd Bridges. I'm going to have my lunch for dinner, (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches) and go to bed. I'm sleeping in the loft of the barn. (first night no tent) Still haven't seen ayone but have seen a few people tracks in the snow..... Good night.........
Times Square Motel - (Elk Park, N.C. - 9 miles)
Today I walked over the Hump Mountains and than wound my way down to Highway US19. Go left 4 miles and to come to the community of Roan Mountain TN. (not so hiker friendly, rumor has it) Go right 2.5 miles and and you come to the very small community of Elk Park N.C. (the trail is still directly on the state lines) Elk Park is considered to be hiker friendly. Let me explain what I've been told: Understand this area is ecomonically challanged. When the Appalachian Trail was being routed though this area the control for the narrow corridor of land is taken by the trial governmental agencys. In almost every case there's been little on no problems. This area was different. There have been issues directed towards hikers and hiker shelters. It's best not to travel through this area alone on Friday or Saturday and to get through the next section as fast as possible. I'm going to stay in Elk Park tonight (friday night) and tomorrow night. This will give me time to re-supply, do my laundry. clean up my gear, and get warm. It's also suppose to rain/snow Friday night into Saturday. The people here have been very nice to me. The Motel owner "Vickie" took me down the road to a filling station so I could charge my room and get a little cash. (kind of different) The Times Square Motel has approximatly 15 rooms, with what seems to be permanent quests in many of the rooms. I saw a school bus stop and two kids run into a room in the motel. Later I heard that a family was staying in the motel because of a house fire) I think I'm one of the first hikers hikers to stay here this year. Oh Yes! I hitched a ride into town with a man named "Coleman Hockett". He said he had work at a window manufacture in Warroad Minnesota one January. Said he didn't mind the cold. Right!!! He did turn me onto a place that made the best cheesburger. Starting from the bottom: Bun, coleslaw, meat, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, chili, and top bun. Had to eat it with a fork and it was great. Back to reality. I have never been this cold for this long. Never again this early in the year. A thought: Walking and thinking go toghether. Because of the solidtude and total absence of people, while up here, you are your own mental captive. I think about everything, and actually have planned on what and who I will think about next. Reminiscing about people and things in your life is a wonderful gift you can give yourself. God knows I have been exceptionally fortunate to have the friends and family I have, and to make things even better I now have a brand new sister to get to know. One additional thought: Going downhill requires about an even amount of strength and agility. Going down you try and find footing about two or three steps ahead of yourself, basically you rock or root dancing. going up requires a great deal from your cardio-vascular system and leg strength. Also the single most important piece of equipment I use is my hiking sticks. Don't ever leave home without em............
2/17/02 - Moreland Gap Shelter (14 miles - 3815')
The profile map made this section look pretty easy. It about killed me. Yesterday I met Joe (about 70 years old). Joe lives at the Times Square Motel, room #8, for the past eight years. I occupied room #7. Joe spent a fair amount of time standing outside our doors. I engaged Joe in converstaion and after a short exchange of pleasantries I asked him if he would drop me off at the trail head the following morning. I offered him $5.00 for his trouble. Sunday morning at 7:30am I was packed up, had my $5.00, and was ready to go, but Joe's chevette, which he started with a screw driver, wasn't. After Joes fired a few choice phrases referring to the car in terms I would never dare, it started. It's apparent to me that North Carolina dosen't have car inspection requirements. It was a hellva ride to the trailhead, and when I gave Joe his five single dollar bills, he got this strange expression. I wondered if he had forgotten I was going to pay him, or maybe he thought I was going to pay him more. It was an awkward moment for us. The last thing Joe said was "it looks like snow". It certainly was cold enough to snow, but there was none on the ground. I could see patches of blue every once in awhile, in a mostly dark gray sky. I was feeling good. I was traveling the section of trail that has had a history of problems between the Appalachian Trail community and the locals. It was early Sunday morning and I felt it was a safe bet that the trouble makers would be in bed nursing a hangover. During last years walk I didn't use maps, but this year I bought profile maps that show the trail in both the typical map format and also an elevational profile. The profile map, which gives you specific mileage and elevational changes, indicated a relatively level walk with the exception of one good dip about 7 miles out. It turned out to be a borderline nightmare. Joe was right, it did start to snow with light interment showers, that I thought was picturesque. The snow continued to fall harder and the wind picked up, blowing the snow directly into my face. As the snow coated the trail, the combination of snow and leaves started sticking to the bottoms of my boots, requiring me to stop every few steps and remove the snowballs with my hiking sticks. You have to understand, as I learned that day, that my profile maps didn't register any change in vertical elevation smaller than 100'. What appeared to be level truned out to be a roller coaster ride that was just a bear to walk "without the snow". During the day I met one weekend hiker going south, two section hikers going my way and one "lightweight" thru-hiker also going north. We all arrived at the shelter about the same time. It was near blizzard conditions and getting real cold. One of the section hikers had swept the snow out of the shelter. The wind had been, and continued to blow, directly into the open side of the shelter. Everyone changed into dry cloths. I ate my lunch for dinner and got into my bag. I knew it was going to be an uncomfortable night and it was. Two of the guys had 0 degree bags and two of us had 20 degree sleeping bags.
Note: an example of trail issues that hikers experienced in this section would be: a fish line strung across the trail at head height with fish hooks tied along it. Local dogs menacing hikers with the owners approval. Burning down the shelter. I would hate to come into contact with some drunks out here. Oh yes! I heard that a hiker was murdered last spring, by some local kids , as he was entering Damascus VA. ( I did not know about this until after my hike was complete.)
2/18/02 - Kincora Hostel (6 miles 2500')
I'm sharing the hostel with trail name "Dave" real name Murice. Murice is what is termed a "lightweight" thru-hiker and is from the Boston area. Murice is 52 but (looks 42), has just enough gear to get him from shelter to shelter. No tent, barley enough food and cloths. He wears running shoes that he replace every few hundred miles. Lightweight travel is a dangerous proposition at this time of year. You can really die up here. Hypothermia is a constant threat to wet cold hikers that have no dry cloths or shelter to retreat to. Hypothermia will kill you. I heard of a test that indicates whether or not you're starting to experience hypothermia. If you can touch your thumb to your little finger (of the same hand) your suppose to be OK. Bottom line. You have to have dry cloths and a shelter to go to in the event of trouble. It's the minimum... I don't think Murice would have an alternative, in the event we got hit by a bad storm. He probably would suffer alot. The hostel has turned off the water for the winter. No shower or flush toilet. They have a five gallon bucket of water in the biff. When your done you just pour the water in the toilet. Works great. The hostel is heated with wood. The owners Bob and Pat Peoples are retired military and attorney. They ask for a $4.00 donation in return they provide the hiker with a warm bed, kitchen, shower, flush toilets, laundry service, and a shuttle into town for supplies. Murice, bob, and I went into Hampton TN. for lunch and supplies. That night we stoked up the stove, reduced the draft, and hit the sack. Murice was sorning before his head hit the pillow. I put in my ear plugs and followed suit. Kincora Hostel was a great opportunity to dry out. resupply and warm up. Post note: This morning when I managed to work up the courage to get out of my sleeping bag, I put my feet in frozen boots. Completely frozen. I had to wear them for awhile before they became flexiable enough to lace.
2/19/02 Watuaga Lake Shelter (11 miles - 2130')
Today we did something different. We slacked packed the next section, in reverse. The next section, between two roads is about 9.5 miles long. The trail goes from 1400' at the base of the mountain to just short of 4000' at the top. Bob shuttled Murice and me to the far side of the mountain, allowing us to walk back to the hostel at our own pace. We carried day packs with lunch, water, tp, etc. Murice left me in the dust. I didn't see him again until I got back to the hostel, 3 hours later. He had beat me by about 10 minuets. It was a magnificent walk. The weather was perfect. (almost a little to warm) I saw Laural Falls, (50' water falls). I walked along a beautiful mountian river, and enjoyed scenic overviews of Lake Watuaga. I hope I took some good pictures. We had lunch at the hostel, packed up, and Pat dropped us off at the point where we started our hike earlier that morning. This time we went the opposite direction and continued our walk north. I said my goodbyes to Murice, he's carrying a much lighter load than me and can go further, faster. I planned on spending the night at the next shelter and Murice was going further. When I arrived at the shelter Murice was sitting on the floor with his stuff spread out. He said, I'm not staying, but it ended up that he did stay. I like Murice and was glad to have the company for another night. The weather is predicted to rain tonight and tomorrow. If it's bad I'll stay here until it improves. It's a pleasant evening in the 40's. Had peanut butter and jelly sndwiches for dinner. I'm really relaxed and am looking forward to a leisurely walk to Damascus. (I dearly love peanut butter and jelly sandwiches).
2/20/02 Vanderventer Shelter (7miles - 3620')
It didn't rain last night and stared shortly before I arrived at this shelter. I would have been pretty dry except for the trip to the spring. It's just short of HELL. I swear I went straight down, hanging unto trees to keep from falling. It must have been at least half a mile down. I found a small, slow spring. On the way up I wanted to scream. I was wet, cold, tired, and pissed. I slipped and slid in the mud trying to climb out of that hole. The trail guide warned me about this problem and suggested north bound hikers get water at a spring a few miles before the shelter. I never found that spring. Murice continued on. I expect I'll catch up to him in Damascus. This afternoon the sun came out and I hung my stuff out to dry. It's windy so I had to tie everthing down.If my stuff blows of the bushes, it'll go off the cliff and I'll never see it again. This shelter is located on top of a ridgeline with the most incredible view of Lake Watauga(way down there). I'm going to cook a hot meal tonight and hopefully do 15 miles tomorrow. That would put me in Damascus the day after tomorrow. Bob, the Hostel owner, said that after the climb to Vandeventer Shelter the trail levels out and offers the opportunity for extended daily mileage. Hope so... (so much for my leisurely walk!!)
2/21/02 Double Springs Shelter (15 miles - 4060')
This morning was like a walk in the park. Wide open hardwood forests with a leaf covered trail that made for a soft feel. I started walking at 6:45am, just before the sun came up. Walking the ridgeline allowed me to see the sunrise. The beauty of that morning touched me. I arrived Iron Mountain Shelter at 10:30am. I was cruising. Felt strong, so I decided to go for Double Springs Shelter an additional 8 miles. I knew that I could tent it if I couldn't make it before dark, and I was carrying enough water to get me through the night. I made it to the shelter by 3:30pm. My butt was dragging, but after a little rest I felt better and hung my wet stuff out to dry. This spring has the velocity of a facuet and it's close to the shelter. This year I'm experiencing cramping in my feet. At about 6 to 8 hours into my daily hike my feet start to cramp up. I have to stop, take off my boots, and rub out the cramps. Then I'm good for another hour or two. Slows me up. Shortly after the Iron Mountain shelter I came upon a grave that was more like a monument. It's Nick Grindstaff's grave. I think it said he died in 1929. It also said, "he lived alone, he suffered alone, and died alone". The guide said he lived there for the last 46 years of his life with his only friend being a rattlesnake. He had a great view of the valley below. I might have walked past, but I heard wind chimes. Somebody had hung small yellow wind chimes on the stone. As I was walking away I heard them chiming again. Damascus is 19 more miles. Almost reachable in a day. I'm going to eat a hot meal, "mountain chili" for dinner. I hate freeze dried dinners but feel I need the fuel for tomorrow. It is said that the hiker appetite kicks in after about two weeks on the trail. Up to now I have had to almost force myself to eat at night, but things are changing. I'm hungry most of the time now. Murice had a supply box sent to the Kincora Hostel. He sent himself more food than he could carry so he offered me some "hermit" cookies. I love cookies. I have been using the cookies, which are large and dense, for breakfast. The suns starting to drop along with the temperature. it amazing how fast it gets cold after the sunsets. Good night........do-wa-diddy
2/22/02 Damascus VA. Lazy Fox B&B (19 miles)
The day started out cold with low clouds. It seemed I would walk up into the foggy clouds and back down out of them. When up in the soupy stuff it would rain very little ice bebe's. About 11:30am I arrived at Abingdon Gap Shelter. I took the blue blaze trail down for water, It was quite a hike, but a great full flowing spring. I had a little lunch and decided to try for Damascus, 10.5 miles further. Now here's a bit of trail reality I wasn't going to mention because it's a little personal, but it happens so I have decided to share it. It was early in the afternoon and I was probably at the Highest point for the days walk when I started experiencing a "real irritation in my groin area. It got worse fast. I tried walking funny, hoping to tough it out to town, eight miles further. Finally I knew I had to do something, so I found a wide spot on the trail, unpacked my pack and removed my first aid kit and a dry, but dirty pair of underware. I was standing on my parka, nude from the waist down, knowing that at any moment a troop of girl scouts would emerge from the clouds. I had "antibacterial wet ones" and a tube of "prescription fungus creme" that Midge had gotten for her feet. I was desperate. I cleaned up with the wet ones and applied the fungus creme to the inflamed tissue. It burned like nothing I've ever known. I knew I had made a serious mistake and thought I might have really hurt myself. Maybe foot fungual creme isn't a reasonable treatment for an inflamed crotch. It was to late, the damage was done. I have never felt so dumb. I got dressed, repacked my pack and cursing my stupidity wide walked down the trail. My alternative treatment, which I was sure I would have to resort to, was Tynenol #3. Concerened that hiking high and being high might be dangerous, I elected not to take drugs. I'm real sore, but alive, with all my parts in Damascus VA. This trip took me through Tennessee, North Carolina, and into Virginia. The only place in Damascus that could accommodate me were a hostel without heat, and a B&B touting the best breakfast on the trail. I took a hot shower and hurried to the local laundry mat where I met a South bound thru-hiker named Bow. Bow had spent the last eight months on the trail. After I completed washing and drying my laundry I met Bow for dinner at a pizza place. He had some interesting experience to share, but one that he shared, was about a snowstorm that he recently experienced, which was the same storm we experienced at Moreland Gap shelter. My plan was to continue walking north until Marion Va., another 75 miles. A cold front was predicted for the next week, bringing single digit temps, and heavy snows for the upper elevations. Bow was going to sit-it out in Damascus until the weather improved and tend to his cold, and I thought it was a good time to head home, so after dinner I called the Greyhound people and got the bus schedule from Abingdon VA. to Knoxville TN. I called Northwest Airlines and changed my flight from 3/2 to 2/25. Last year Northwest wanted $1000.00 for a similar change. This year the happily made the change with "no charge". Midge made hotel reservations for my near the Knoxville airport. All my connections worked out fine and when I arrived in Minneapolis my Daughter Stacy and Granddaughter Emma were there to meet me. Two things: On my way to the trail I connected through Detroit and used the terminal I had used for years, during my working days. On my return filght I also connected through Detroit but Northwest had changed to a brand new terminal. "space age terminal" it was really cool. What was the second thing? Oh yes, Murice. When I arrived in Damascus I looked around for Murice. No Murice! Now Damascus is really a small town with very limited accommodations, but no Murice. Where could he have gone? He was in front of me on the trail and there was no alternative community he could have gone to. I talked to the outfitters in town and they haden't see him, but suggested that he might have used one of the two roads the trail crossed to leave the area. It didn't sound right to me. Jenny, the B&B owner, was going into Abingdon to have her hair done later that afternoon and offered to drop my at the Holiday Inn. (her B&B was full that night). Later that evening I decided to have dinner a Wendys and guess who I run into? Yes! Murice. He was sitting there eating a baked potato. I asked him how he managed to get here and this is what he told me. (remember he knew about the hiker murder last spring) On his last day on the trail he had made it to Double Springs shelter after dark, and found another hiker staying there. He spent the night at the shelter but said the guy, which Murice decribed as a big guy, acting strangely, had spooked him. Instead of heading north on the trail, Murice took a side trail. To shorten a long story, Murice hitched a ride into Abingdon and was staying at a cheap motel across the street from Wendys. We talked and Murice made the decesion to head back to the trail. He called a cab and at 8:00pm headed to Low Gap (a junction where the trail crosses the road) where he would have to walk 3.5 mile south to Double Springs Shelter, spend the night and walk north into Damascus the following morning. The next morning my cab driver (only one in Abingdon) told me had dropped Murice off at Low gap but felt funny leaving him there at that time of the night. He said he asked Murice if he really wanted to get out and would return him to town at no charge but Murice got out and dissapeared into the forest. I know the weather was going to be OK for the following day, and he was aware of the worsening weather condidtions coming up later in the week. I expect he'll be OK.
I'm home, and did learn a few things during my 2002 walk on the Appalachian Trail.
1. I have to lighten my load by at least 10#'s from my maximum weight.
2. I have to get crampons that are lighter and more user friendly.
3. I have to physically prepare myself better.
4. I have to travel during warmer months.
5. I have to find an alternative to freeze dried food.
6. I would like to find a compatible hiker to travel with.
7. Sprint is not an acceptable phone company while traveling on the trail.
8. My desire to compete the trail is stronger than ever.
I'm happy to be home, and am looking forward to continuing my hike next year. Have a happy and healthy 2002.
Grace and Peace. do-wa-diddy
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